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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well the engine on my Troy Built Tiller took a dump yesterday? The kid was working away and was on his last run when it happen. All of a sudden some blue smoke came out the muffler then it really came out it filled the garden up! The engine was still running up till the end then it just quit and 1/2 the garden was covered in thick blue smoke??? So guess the new Briggs engine only lasted about 3 years and I will need another one for the 60 plus year old tiller. There only $158.00 way cheaper then a new one costs. It was kind of cool to watch it happen not sure what the piston or valve seal that went south did? I had just changed the oil too with fresh! Sure glad my JD4044M Tractor did not do that!
 

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That's a shame that a Briggs only lasted 2 years, especially since you just changed the oil which tells me you werent neglecting it.
They certainly don't make them like they used to, that's for sure. :banghead:
Tell them you aren't happy. Give B&S a chance to make you happy. If you don't they may not know that there is problem with their product. At the same time, if they hear that you are a happy customer they'll know that they are doing something right. I've always said that a happy customer will tell a few people about your product, but an unhappy customer will tell anybody who will listen that they weren't happy. It's a roto-tiller, how hard can you work it? You probably only use it a couple of weeks out of a year, right?
 

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Well the engine on my Troy Built Tiller took a dump yesterday? The kid was working away and was on his last run when it happen. All of a sudden some blue smoke came out the muffler then it really came out it filled the garden up! The engine was still running up till the end then it just quit and 1/2 the garden was covered in thick blue smoke??? So guess the new Briggs engine only lasted about 3 years and I will need another one for the 60 plus year old tiller. There only $158.00 way cheaper then a new one costs. It was kind of cool to watch it happen not sure what the piston or valve seal that went south did? I had just changed the oil too with fresh! Sure glad my JD4044M Tractor did not do that!
The B&S 31000-series engine in my brothers LA105 riding mower did the same thing a few weeks ago. It ended up just being a blown head gasket. $20 later and he is back in business.
 

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I try my best to avoid Briggs engines...it's not easy to do....I'm not even successful but I try. I consider every one of them to be a ticking timebomb of failure.
 

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I try my best to avoid Briggs engines...it's not easy to do....I'm not even successful but I try. I consider every one of them to be a ticking timebomb of failure.
The same can be said for most small single-cylinder engines these days. Plastic intake manifolds, plastic carburetors, plastic valve covers, etc. Even the small Honda engines aren't what they used to be.
 

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Last time I bought a small engine Briggs it came with a product brochure that showed they produced a large variety of engines from cheap to top tier.
I would think if one of their better and more expensive designs were purchased it would be better built and more reliable.
Still no excuse for such a short life from a little used machine.
 

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That's a shame that a Briggs only lasted 2 years, especially since you just changed the oil which tells me you werent neglecting it.
They certainly don't make them like they used to, that's for sure. :banghead:
No, they don't.
 

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My B&S, Honda and Tecumseh engines have worked out fine so far. I had a single cylinder Kohler that blew 10 hours after the warranty expired. Looks like they forgot to torque down the head bolts. I had a 12" crack in the casing when it blew. Found out that is their least reliable engine. Of course, it is also in many things.
 

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My B&S, Honda and Tecumseh engines have worked out fine so far. I had a single cylinder Kohler that blew 10 hours after the warranty expired. Looks like they forgot to torque down the head bolts. I had a 12" crack in the casing when it blew. Found out that is their least reliable engine. Of course, it is also in many things.
Uh oh, I have a new one on my pressure washer. maybe I should check her out.
I thought at one time Kohler had an excellent rep, then I heard they had trouble maybe 5-10 years ago, but my small engine dealer told me they had improved and the one I have sure looks quality from the outside anyway...

Everyone raves about Honda small engines but I bought a push, trim mower with one and I have been underwhelmed?
 

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I try my best to avoid Briggs engines...it's not easy to do....I'm not even successful but I try. I consider every one of them to be a ticking timebomb of failure.
I’ve had multiple B&S engines over the years, have never had a single engine failure. I recently sold my LA135 that had a 22hp B&S. Over 475 hours without a single issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’ve had multiple B&S engines over the years, have never had a single engine failure. I recently sold my LA135 that had a 22hp B&S. Over 475 hours without a single issue.
I had to go back and look it is a Tecumseh 8HP Industrial Cast Iron Gylinder, Head ect?
 

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I had to go back and look it is a Tecumseh 8HP Industrial Cast Iron Gylinder, Head ect?
I had a 6 hp tecumseh, that the vent for the crank case gets fed I think back into the carb, been a while, the tiller worked fine until you were tilling real deep, then the oil would feed back into the carb and blow smoke, ended up something(can't remember what) was installed upside down where the pipe from the crank case attached. put it back the correct way and off it went, hope it's that simple.
 

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The original Kohler gave up the ghost on my Troy Bilt (horse) several years ago.

I swapped it out with this Subaru engine that has pressurized oil system.

The Troy Bilt tillers were solid tillers but when engaged in the dirt, they lean back at a hard angle causing the motor to also angle back which causes the engine to not get proper oiling. It was their weakness.

I always overfilled the oil reservoir on the original Kohler engine on mine to try to make sure this didn't happen although it finally did succumb.

The new Subaru, if the engine isn't getting oil, the engine shuts off, so at least you don't run it not getting oil.

I overfill the Subaru engine also so that when it is leaning back, it still has oil at the oil pickup.
 

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Uh oh, I have a new one on my pressure washer. maybe I should check her out.
I thought at one time Kohler had an excellent rep, then I heard they had trouble maybe 5-10 years ago, but my small engine dealer told me they had improved and the one I have sure looks quality from the outside anyway...

Everyone raves about Honda small engines but I bought a push, trim mower with one and I have been underwhelmed?
I got the mower new in 2007, my first rider. I was going from a suburban lot to 7.5 acres and wasn't going to try it with the push mower. At 215 hours the engine blew while blowing snow in 2011. THEN I found out Kohler was having issues with the single cylinder. Replacement mower was pretty much the same only newer. Manual tranny went at about 220 hours. Ha, I still have the first one so let's combine. No way. 1st one had electric PTO and hydrostat, 2nd was manual in both. Crankshaft on the engines was different length so putting the new engine on the old machine was out. Hydro and associated wouldn't fit in the new machine.

I gave up and bought a zero turn. Managed to trade both dead mowers and $100 for a rider with a 2 cylinder Kohler and no deck (also from 2007). At this point I needed a yard mule and the zero turn wouldn't take the job. Oh, they were all Cub Cadet so I could use the snow blower that cost more than the 1st mower did new.

Funny, the zero turn has a single cylinder Kohler and there has been no problems with the engine (so far). I think the issues were a QC issue and have been resolved. I hope.

I have a Honda on the log splitter and pressure washer. Neither get a lot of use but run well. The pump on the pressure washer just went.

I have an engine new to me now, a Predator from Harbor Freight on a plate compactor. I have heard good things so far but it is still in the box.
 

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The Troy Bilt tillers were solid tillers but when engaged in the dirt, they lean back at a hard angle causing the motor to also angle back which causes the engine to not get proper oiling. It was their weakness.
I can't see it in the picture, but does your tiller have a dragging depth stop/drag bar? Not sure of the name but if I don't use mine it skips around on me, especially with forward rotation on hard ground. I learned to break it up with reverse rotation first.

I have a Cub Cadet rear tine dual rotation that is pushing 10 years now and has been a good one. Got a RT1157 I am looking forward to trying out once things dry out a bit more.
 

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I have an engine new to me now, a Predator from Harbor Freight on a plate compactor. I have heard good things so far but it is still in the box.
I bought a troy built tiller with blown engine for $25 and put a $99 Harbor freight engine on it about 6 years ago.
Still going strong. For $100 to replace the engine on small equipment it is hard to beat.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I bought a troy built tiller with blown engine for $25 and put a $99 Harbor freight engine on it about 6 years ago.
Still going strong. For $100 to replace the engine on small equipment it is hard to beat.
Just looked on line and found one for like $135.00 free shipping! Guess I need to look a little bit closer at it first before buying one.
 

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My cousin bought a brand new $1,200 Cub Cadet tiller last year. He got to till his garden twice before a seal went out and blew oil everywhere. Luckily it was still under warrantee but they had it most of the summer. When he finally got it back it wasn't put together right so he had to fix it himself anyway. He hasn't mentioned it this year so I don't know if it's still going or not. I have an old Kubota walk behind tiller that runs great. Hopefully it keeps going for as long as I'll be planting garden.
 

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I can't see it in the picture, but does your tiller have a dragging depth stop/drag bar? Not sure of the name but if I don't use mine it skips around on me, especially with forward rotation on hard ground. I learned to break it up with reverse rotation first.

I have a Cub Cadet rear tine dual rotation that is pushing 10 years now and has been a good one. Got a RT1157 I am looking forward to trying out once things dry out a bit more.
Yes it does have the depth bar. My tiller is not new. It is an older model Troy-bilt "horse". I just reconditioned it several years ago.

Bottom line, if you till allot, the only way to go is have one that attaches to the 3 point. It will save you back!!!!
 
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