Green Tractor Talk banner

Need a bench grinder for sharpening mower blades

16129 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  rgd
The last time I had my mower blades sharpened, it was $8 each. That's about half the cost of a new blade, and up considerably from $3 a decade ago. So it's time for me to get a bench grinder so I can sharpen my own blades. These are the blades on my mid mount mower, not the big MX6 rotary cutter.

I got a flyer from Northern Tool with some discount coupons it in. They have a 6" grinder on sale and you can also apply the coupons. Now I don't want the one they show because I'd like one with a light on it.

Now keep in mind this is for weekend warrior use. I don't even have a welder (there was one for sale in the catalog, but I'm not going there....). I've got a 4.5" hand held grinder, but it sure seems like using that on mower blades that are off the mower is going to cause more trouble than it solves (although they are tempting to use to touch up the MX6 blades). So what should I get?

Size of the grinding disk?
Work light?
Stand or Table top mount?
HP of motor if it matters?
And all the other stuff I just don't know enough to ask?

TIA and when the mowin' is over I can't wait to get to the seasonal grind :laugh:.

1 - 6 of 29 Posts
Pete if you just mow lawn and never hit rocks a couple of quality 12" flat files will work, they're better because they they don't cut as fast and are easier to control.

I use a 12" flat mill file when I finish up my rotary cutters blades. A quality file will bring an edge on fast and it feels and sounds good working the metal... you'll get the hang of it fast and enjoy it. :good2:
Great link Tackit:thumbup1gif:

Glad you liked it kenny. :good2:
Tackit, tnx for the link. Learned good stuff, and saw that how I use a file isn't too far off the mark :thumbup1gif:. I've got lots of small precision files for chassis work, but only one big one that could be used to sharpen a blade.

The driveway is only 4 years new, so there are still a few places where I mow the gravel and the grass is collateral damage :mocking:. With time, as I work the gravel out and bring the dirt up, this will get better.

So I'll give a shot by hand (both file and hand grinder) and be on the lookout for the "Kenny approved" style of grinder for when I find an ugly patch of rail road ballast. My take on all this is "either do it all by hand, or get a really good grinder not some cheapie".

On a related filing note, for years I filed my chainsaw chains by hand so I could get the hang of it. At first, I filed and then took it to get sharpened :)banghead:) but now I can do OK. My goal is to be able to sharpen the chain good enough to use for those rare weather events where you don't have the luxury of being to take a break and have it sharpened. That skill (and having 3-4 chains on hand) have got me through situations and helped the Fire Dept. clear the district after ice storms.

Thanks for the comments, more are welcome if other have them. Guess I have to post a picture of my sharpening...

Sounds good Pete, it's good to know how to do things without power. Sounds like filing your blades would be an easy job for you... :good2:
Check out this site. It's the largest forestry site on the net and you will find a wealth of info. on sharpening chain. The next step up is your own chain saw grinder. Bought one last year and haven't looked back.
Nice website George thanks... I wonder if someone there could help me fix an old Remington chain saw that has hydraulic block... My friend gave it to me, it's really a nice saw, I would love to fix it. My lawn mower shop says he isn't intrested in fixing it because parts not readily available.

I think I could fix it if I knew how to trouble shoot the problem.
I'll give it a try George... It's a nice saw even with battle scars, I'll take a picture of it later when I head out to the shop.
1 - 6 of 29 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.