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Discussion Starter #1
Boy howdy, talk about being unprepared and lacking in more ways than one!!! That was me today after I drove about 75 miles to work on the 70 where I have it stored in a barn. I had fully intended to order the necessary manuals of which at least one should tell me how to adjust the wheel width for the back tires. But did I? No!!!! :)banghead: To make matters worse, a very nice guy drove a lot further than I had to and brought his trailer to haul it for me. His trailer can only haul items 80 inches or less in width. With the way the wheels are spaced now, they are set about 90 inches from outside to outside.

I managed to break several of the bolts loose with the impact wrench, but couldn't get the bolts loosened on the inner side of the wheel since I didn't bring the right tool for that.

Is it possible to narrow the back wheel spacing on a model 70 to less than 80 inches? If my memory is right, there are 13.6 - 38 tires on the back.

It was such a rushed ordeal to meet up at the farm today and I had little time to try and make a list of what tools to bring.

There's a bolt on the outside of the wheel center that runs perpendicular to the axle and appears to be what locks in the axle cross grooves. I'm able to make it move a litte bit up and down, but don't know what is the proper procedure for going about adjusting the wheel spacing on the rear axle.

Can anyone offer some helpful advice on this subject?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm almost afraid to ask about Brian's experience. It's easy to understand the possibility of a person getting hurt when wrestling with the back wheels. Heck, I learned just how much fun it is to remove a back wheel minus the center. Had to replace some innter tubes and that was sure an experience. Fun wasn't included.

Learned some new wrestling moves for getting everything lined up as it should be when remounting the wheel assemblies:laugh:.
 

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The three larger bolts(1 5/16") on the outside need to be loosened, which it appears you have that done. The two smaller bolts (1 1/16") need to be turned in. Those are the pusher bolts. They turn it against the wedge to break it loose. Turn those in as far as you can get them. If the wedge does not move, take a sledge hammer and strike the end of the axle several times. Then try to tighten the smaller bolts some more. (I forgot to mention to spray bolts, axle, and wedges liberally with penetrating oil before, during and after these steps.) Usually each time you strike the end of the axle a few times, you can get the pusher bolts to turn a little bit more. Keep repeating this and eventully it should come loose. The bolts on the inside of the wheel aren't really required to be loosened. Once you get the wedge to move about a half inch or so, them you use the bolt perpendicular to the axle to crank the wheel in or out. There is a gear on that bolt that engages the teeth on the axle.
 

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After looking closer at your photos, it doesn't appear you have enough axle to slide the wheel in 10 inches on each side. It does appear however, that the outer rim is is the widest position on the cast dish. There are 8 clamps around the circumference of the wheel that attaches the rim to the cast center. The rim can be attached 4 different ways. Right now, the clamps are on the inside of the cast center. If you remove the clamps and slide the wheel in, you can move the clamps to the outer side of the cast center to gain some width. Then there is a second "bead" on the rim that you can move the wheel in even farther. Between the sliding on the axle and moving the clamps on the rim bead, you should have plenty of adjustment. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After looking closer at your photos, it doesn't appear you have enough axle to slide the wheel in 10 inches on each side. It does appear however, that the outer rim is is the widest position on the cast dish. There are 8 clamps around the circumference of the wheel that attaches the rim to the cast center. The rim can be attached 4 different ways. Right now, the clamps are on the inside of the cast center. If you remove the clamps and slide the wheel in, you can move the clamps to the outer side of the cast center to gain some width. Then there is a second "bead" on the rim that you can move the wheel in even farther. Between the sliding on the axle and moving the clamps on the rim bead, you should have plenty of adjustment. Good Luck!
Thanks very much for your excellent input. If I can get the wheels moved 5 to 6 inches inward on each side, that'll be plenty. Yes, I did apply penetrating oil(Kroil) generously and will apply more tmrrow as I attempt to get everything freed up. Thanks a bunch. I sure appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
jd110, you are the man!!!!! :yahoo:

Brother, you gave me the right advice and did it much faster than the closest dealer. The service manager still hasn't called me back. I was pressed for time and needed to know how to get the wheels adjusted in a hurry.

Prior to your help, the wheels measured about 90 inches and now they are about 76 inches wide.

It wasn't a simple task at all and that sledgehammer sure got a workout as did I. Used a lot of penetrating oil and sweat to get all the bolts and nuts etc to budge. Sure has been hot and very windy here. To give you an idea of how hard it was ,the muscles in my arms got so fatigued from trying to do what the impact wrench could not. When I closed/clinched my hands they would not easily open again. Never experienced that before.
My helper decided to disappear after he got a glimpse of the difficulty involved.:laugh:

Thank you again sir for your most appreciated input. You sure helped tremendously. When I have time, I'll take some pics of the axle and rear wheels after being adjusted to a narrower spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I just found these original model 70 manuals on my person. I just had to say that even though it does sound odd. Hee Hee
No, actually the lady whose deceased husband owned the tractor since the 1950's, told me to come look through one of the barns for them. Now get this, the manuals for the 70 and other Deere's were stored inside a 1940's era International Harvester refrigerator.

Who needs manuals when you have Green Tractor Talk?
 

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