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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

The good news. My girlfriend bought me the best 40th b'day/Xmas present ever. A Woodmaxx 62" flail mower with hydraulic side shift that should make short work of the lawn at our house.

The better news. It will be arriving in a couple days.

The bad news. I have no idea what type of hydraulic lines and fittings I need to to connect my tractor's hydraulics to the mower for the side shift operation.

I have next to no experience with hydraulic fittings aside from connecting and disconnecting them off my loader and backhoe so please bear with any of my incompetence. I have a 3025e that I purchased this year. I got the quick park option that allows for removal of the loader and adds coupling for removal of the hydraulic lines. I plan on running the the mower hydraulics off the loader joystick.

The mower has 1/2-14 NPTF threads, I assume they're male ends. The couplings for the hydraulic fittings for the loader on my tractor appear to be the same as was on my 1023e, but I don't know with certainty. The fittings on the loader end of the line are marked NV14-38 saef 14-E0. I'm including some pics of them below as well.

It would be greatly appreciated if somebody can tell me what size/type of female fittings would be needed to hook up the hydraulic lines to my loader joystick control. I also need some recommendations on where to purchase the lines from. I would need 2 lines about 6' long with the corresponding 1/2-14 NPTF threads to hook up on the mower side.
 

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Your loader couplers are 1/4 ISO 5675 "AG" style w/poppet with a 3/8" SAE thread (but that part is irrelevant to you now).


We sell them on our website with 1/4" NPT threads. Yes they are the same as your previous 1023E.
 

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You can get hoses/lines and fittings at your local Parker Hydraulic store or NAPA. If you tell them the dimensions they make them for you. :greentractorride:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your loader couplers are 1/4 ISO 5675 "AG" style w/poppet with a 3/8" SAE thread (but that part is irrelevant to you now).


We sell them on our website with 1/4" NPT threads. Yes they are the same as your previous 1023E.
Thanks all for the replies. Do you sell hosing as well? I'm unsure of what diameter hose I'd need for the corresponding fitting size. After re-reading Woodmaxx's website where it says "Hose ends that connect to the tractor are fitted with 1/2-14 NPTF threads" I'm now assuming I'd need a complete male/female coupling for the mower side of the hose.
 

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I can have hose(s) custom made and drop shipped, but I only do that when the customer knows EXACTLY what they need. There are just to many sizes and crimp styles to guess, once a hose is made it's yours-no sending it back for credit.

I'd suggest you try to find a local shop, even many NAPA stores (or Parker as mentioned above) will make hydraulic hoses and can help with fittings-also wait until you have the unit so you can see exactly whats needed and how long they need to be. You will need 1/4" or 3/8" hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can have hose(s) custom made and drop shipped, but I only do that when the customer knows EXACTLY what they need. There are just to many sizes and crimp styles to guess, once a hose is made it's yours-no sending it back for credit.

I'd suggest you try to find a local shop, even many NAPA stores (or Parker as mentioned above) will make hydraulic hoses and can help with fittings-also wait until you have the unit so you can see exactly whats needed and how long they need to be. You will need 1/4" or 3/8" hose.
That’s all greatly appreciated. Last couple questions and I should have it. Does the different size hose, 1/4 vs 3/8”, affect the operation? Lastly is there specific type, or pressure rated, hose that I should be using?
 

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Yes, hose size can affect performance, but we are taking about a small cylinder used to control side shift, your not operating a big motor. You also have limited flow, so using a large hose is not needed. Think of it as hooking up a 2” fire hose to the hose bib at your hose that’s made for 3/4” hose, what’s the point of that?
You should be looking for 3000psi rated hose at a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks to all the assistance thus far. So now a couple weeks later I have and put everything together needed. I bought the 2x 1/4 fittings recommend by Kenny, 2x 10' of 3/8" hydrualix line, and 2x 1/2" 4AGF4 fittings for the mower connection. I'm experiencing some leaks at the 1/2" fittings on the mower side though after getting things as tight as possible manually. Do I need to be using some sort thread sealant or tape with those fittings? If so what would be the proper recommended sealant type, and what would be the proper application and set up procedure?

Again thanks for everybody getting me this far. I'm learning, albeit slowly.
 

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Thanks to all the assistance thus far. So now a couple weeks later I have and put everything together needed. I bought the 2x 1/4 fittings recommend by Kenny, 2x 10' of 3/8" hydrualix line, and 2x 1/2" 4AGF4 fittings for the mower connection. I'm experiencing some leaks at the 1/2" fittings on the mower side though after getting things as tight as possible manually. Do I need to be using some sort thread sealant or tape with those fittings? If so what would be the proper recommended sealant type, and what would be the proper application and set up procedure?

Again thanks for everybody getting me this far. I'm learning, albeit slowly.
You should not need any type of sealant with hydraulic lines although I have used plumbers tape before with success. It is NOT recommended because if a piece of it gets in your system it can potentially cause a restriction in the system.

When you say tighten manually, have you put a wrench on it or is this just hand tighten?
 

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NPT fittings do indeed need sealant. As stated regular teflon tape is not recommended, but a PTFE based paste is or other purpose made sealants (we even sell some).

Post some pics of what you have-then we can help better.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the replies. I manually tightened everything with some large wrenches. I could probably set up the lines in a table vice and maybe get an impact on at least the male fitting, not sure if that's the best idea though.

These are the 1/2" fittings that I got from discount hydraulics that are leaking below. It looks like they are NPTF though. When I ordered the fittings I believe the sales associate mentioned something about not taking them off once installed, this has me wondering if they do indeed require some sort of sealant however.

4AGF4-AG4F4 | Set of 1/2" Couplers with 1/2" NPTF Threads

If there are any specific pics from my tractor/lines/leaks that would be helpful let me know and I'll take and post some.
 

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Tom, two things:
-Yes these need sealant on the threads.
-Your tractor uses the “poppet” style QD’s rather than the “ball” style in the link. While these are generally compatible, sometime there are issues when mixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tom, two things:
-Yes these need sealant on the threads.
-Your tractor uses the “poppet” style QD’s rather than the “ball” style in the link. While these are generally compatible, sometime there are issues when mixed.
Ok. What type of sealant should I be using? I got and am using the 1/4" poppet style fitting on the loader control side of the line with no issues. The leaks are on the mower side of the line with the 1/2" fittings.
 

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Ok. What type of sealant should I be using? I got and am using the 1/4" poppet style fitting on the loader control side of the line with no issues. The leaks are on the mower side of the line with the 1/2" fittings.
As I stated in my last reply:

...regular teflon tape is not recommended, but a PTFE based paste is or other purpose made sealants (we even sell some).
You can use Permatex #80631 or 80632
Loctite #565, 545 or 569
3M HP69
Teflon tape with extreme caution...like staying off the first two threads and being sure to wrap in the correct direction.

Or...the stuff we sell ;-)
 

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Some of you guys may already know this and some may not.
The NPTF thread, the F stands for Fuel, was developed for the aircraft industry and the military. They were to be assembled without a sealant to prevent contamination of the system. A lubricant, usually oil, is applied to the threads and the fittings are tightened. When two NPTF fittings are screwed together hand tight, the tips of the threads make contact. When tightened with a wrench, these tips are "crushed" allowing the sides of the threads to contact each other and now also seal. Theoretically, you'll have a 100% metal to metal seal along the threads. As far as reusing NPTF fittings, they'rs already deformed from the first installation and may not seal when reused unless a sealant is used.
NPT fittings are designed to leak! When assembled hand tight, the sides of the threads make contact, leaving a channel between the od & id of the threads. Using a sealant fills this channel. Further tightening with a wrench simply pushes the sides of the threads together and the sealant seals the od & id.
Using an NPT fitting with an NPTF fitting requires sealant as proper crushing of the tips may not be achieved and the channel needs to be filled with sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Good news/bad news

The good news is that I finally had some free time and was able to fix the leaks by carefully using teflon tape as prescribed. Thanks for all the help.

The bad news is that it's not working exactly like I envisioned. I'm sure its something I can live with and eventually get used to but the hydraulic shift of the mower is working in the opposite direction of right and left toggles on the loader control joystick. I assumed that connecting the two line on the opposite connections on the loader control would solve the issue. When I do that though it seems to lock up the hydraulics on the mower and the cylinder stops moving as soon as it bottoms out on one side.

I'm assuming the issue is that hydraulic pressure of the system only flows in one direction. That has me thinking that there may not be easy to fix on how to coordinate the left and right shift of the mower with the corresponding left and right toggles on the loader control. But if anybody has any ideas I'd love to hear them. Flipping the mower cylinder is not an option.
 

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Tom, try swapping the hoses again, but this time when operation only move your joystick a little to right to move the mover to the right-if you push to far you end up in the "regen" zone and this will cause the lockup you described.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Kenny, I think you're onto something. I read a great and very informative post you had shared a while back about regen, which I was prior oblivious to. I had a quick chance to play around with switching the hydraulics around a bit more on the loader input connections. Everything worked as it should in three of the four possible combinations inputs; the reversed order of right to left on the curl function and both positions of the raise and lower inputs.

Of course the issue only happens on the desired left/right of curl action on the loader control. It's a bit different than you outlined however. What's actually happening when the lines are hooked up that way is that BOTH left and right inputs on the joystick are only moving the mower's cylinder in ONE direction until the cylinder is fully opened and at that point it becomes locked up and will not close. This happens regardless of how far you push the joystick. Not sure if the loader control is set up differently on the 3E series or if there may be an issue. I have noticed that the bucket on my 3025 is bit more 'floppy' than the bucket on my previous 1023e.
 

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Tom,
I don't believe there is regen on the D160. If there is I can't find it using the
loader and there is no mention of it in the loader manual. Of course I could be wrong.:dunno:
 
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