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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

So I was trying to be proactive today and make sure my slip clutch is ready for mowing season and decided to test it, well I got as far as trying to remove the snap ring. Now call me stupid, but shouldn't there be some sort of tools list or exploded view of how to remove this darn thing in the manual? Anyways, my question:

Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove the snap ring that holds the driveline on the input shaft. I believe to remove them, some open and some are squeezed closed, but as it's hard to access this one, I'm not sure how this snap ring comes off?

I have a Frontier RC2072 mowing deck. See pic below from manual. I'm guessing I will need some snap ring pliers but wasn't sure if anyone had done this and knew if I could use something from NAPA or did I need a special pair?


drive line and snap ring_2.jpg :

Thank you very much!
Dennis
 

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Hello!
Does your snap ring pliers have interchangeable teeth or heads? This maybe an application for the 90 degree or L shaped heads. Hopefully this may help? Good luck!
Brad
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Brad

Well, at this point, I don't actually have a pair but first thing tomorrow I'm heading over to Napa auto to see if I can find a pair with a 45' or 90' bend on them. I'm also going to order a set from JD to keep in my tool box.

Thanks again,
Have a great night!
Dennis
 

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You'll need a right angle /90 degree bend.You can get kits that have 6 pliers in them large and small tip and right angle.Should take care of all your needs.
 

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I can't tell from the photo, but does the snap-ring have cut ends or does it have round holes / "Pin Lugs" for using "Pin-type" expanding pliers?

Here's a nice set for removing Pin Lug style rings: Knipex 00-21-25 8 Piece Precision Circlip Pliers Set with Case

These snap ring pliers are also available individually.
 

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I can't tell from the photo, but does the snap-ring have cut ends or does it have round holes / "Pin Lugs" for using "Pin-type" expanding pliers?

Here's a nice set for removing Pin Lug style rings: Knipex 00-21-25 8 Piece Precision Circlip Pliers Set with Case

These snap ring pliers are also available individually.
That is a really nice set of snap ring pliers. However, if the OP finds the price to be objectionable, Sears sells a craftsman set with removable bits so you switch back and forth between 90 degree and straight bits. The handle also switches from inside to outside pliers as well. It is not nearly as nice as this set but way more affordable for someone who is just a causal user.

Not sure what the JD tool looks like but I am pretty sure it will be overpriced like all the other accessories they sell.
 

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I am with Spuerglidesport . Those Knipex are the best . The John Deere ones are these with John Deere mark on them . I have two sets given to me my old boss . Before I always used the Cman's ones at 20 $ . they are ok ... The Knipex are :yahoo: At 20-30 $ for one I now have 4 sets . They are made for different shaft sizes . 1/2 1''' and 3/4 -2''' also larger . Try amazon or ebay . the junk one are just that . Good luck .
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hi Guys,

I want to thank everyone for their help. Being as this is my first tractor the learning curve is steep and I sure do appreciate all the help from the good people on this forum.

Quick update on the slip clutch: I purchased a pair of snap ring pliers from NAPA with interchangeable heads but was unable to get the darn clip off, so I decided to start mowing and give the dealer a call tomorrow to see if it's imperative that I test the slip clutch as it seems to be a real PIA to do:
remove slip clutch
loosen bolts
replace slip clutch
start PTO and test clutch
remove slip clutch again
re-tighten bolts
replace slip clutch.

P.S. Thanks Superglidesport for the link, i'll be saving up and getting that set as it looks like it'll be real handy, for the tractor and all the other things i maintain around the farm.

Anyways, thanks again and I'm sure this won't be my last post as it appears there's always something to either fix or maintain....
Dennis
 
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Slip clutch

Hi Guys,

I want to thank everyone for their help. Being as this is my first tractor the learning curve is steep and I sure do appreciate all the help from the good people on this forum.

Quick update on the slip clutch: I purchased a pair of snap ring pliers from NAPA with interchangeable heads but was unable to get the darn clip off, so I decided to start mowing and give the dealer a call tomorrow to see if it's imperative that I test the slip clutch as it seems to be a real PIA to do:
remove slip clutch
loosen bolts
replace slip clutch
start PTO and test clutch
remove slip clutch again
re-tighten bolts
replace slip clutch.

P.S. Thanks Superglidesport for the link, i'll be saving up and getting that set as it looks like it'll be real handy, for the tractor and all the other things i maintain around the farm.

Anyways, thanks again and I'm sure this won't be my last post as it appears there's always something to either fix or maintain....
Dennis
Testing & resetting a slip clutch is something of a PIA. I learned the hard way that it's necessary. I had a clutch not slip when baling hay. A big wad of green hay was in the windrow and it self fed into the baler. Rather than the clutch slipping the gear box ate itself. It was not a happy time as the baler was down, a new gear box was expensive and when it came it wasn't an exact match and some adjustment was required to make it fit.

I'm more willing to test a slip clutch now, at least at the beginning of the season when equipment has been sitting over the winter. A fairly small amount of rust can bind one up.

Treefarmer
 
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I've never removed a slip clutch to test or set it. Loosen the bolts evenly, start the tractor and engage the PTO. Let the clutch slip for a few seconds, then shut everything down and tighten the bolts 1/2 turn at a time until the clutch holds with no load. Test under load, may need to tighten 1/2 turn or so more.

This is one reason I prefer shear bolts for something that only gets used occasionally.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
** Update **

Sorry it's been so long, but finally stopped raining long enough over here on the Oregon coast for me to test what 56FordGuy posted. I didn't remove the drive-line, but instead just loosened all the bolts with extended ratchet driver and then put a few marks on the hub and the spring. Hooked it up and engaged the PTO. Son-of-a-gun, it worked!!

Very thankful to everyone for their time and information.
Dennis
 
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