Need help selecting material...

rwmeyer said:

I wouldn't use pipe! The only thing 3/4" on 3/4 pipe is the name! OD is 1.050" and ID varies from .884" to .614" depending on Schedule! Use steel tubing instead... the numbers are the OD. That too comes in different thicknesses, but McM will have sizes. Bob

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x2. As far as your question about square tubing, most of the perforated stuff is designed such that any given size can be inserted into next biggest diameter to create a telescoping or nesting effect (e.g., 1" fits inside 1-1/4"). Depending on what gauge you want/need, you may be able to find something that works at your local hardware or home improvement store.

rwmeyer said:

I wouldn't use pipe! The only thing 3/4" on 3/4 pipe is the name! OD is 1.050" and ID varies from .884" to .614" depending on Schedule! Use steel tubing instead... the numbers are the OD. That too comes in different thicknesses, but McM will have sizes. Bob

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Pipe is cheap, I will certainly make my spacers out of that. I'll probably try to find some steel tube to attach the wheel to the arms. I've not decided really anything other than I just want a set of wheels and I'm working through what that will take. I can always count on good points from this group, thanks.

I will take a stab at this. Buy the wheels and then match a solid piece of bar stock for the axle to the bushings or bearings that come in the wheels. Depending on size they will have a 5/8 or 3/4” axle and the wheels will say the load capacity. Up here menards has a good selection. Heavy duty wheel barrow tires might work but they have heavier if you want.

For square tubing as long as you stay with the same wall thickness they will slide into each other. A 1.5” 1/4” wall tube will slide in a 2” 1/4” wall tube. Same as a 1.5“ 1/8” wall will slide in a 1-3/4” 1/8” wall. Once in a while if what they stock is from a different supplier I have to mill .010” off two sides to get it to fit and paint can make it too thick if I put it on to heavy. Mixing wall thicknesses is tough because the thin walls have a tighter radius so the corners don’t fit. There is another issue. It is hard to get seamless tubing so there is a thin weld sticking up on the inside. You either need to mill an approximately .050” deep by .125” slot on the od of the inside tube for it to slide or on a short piece grind the bead down on the ID of the outside tube so it can slide. It is easier to do round tube and bar but square is stronger.

If you want specific dimensions you don't want to buy pipe, you want tubing. You should be able to select a specific OD and then chose the wall thickness that will give you the ID. However, I have found fitting one tube into another is sometime too tight or won't fit at all. I have filed and used emory cloth to make things fit but on steel, that gets old in a hurry.

McMaster Carr is a good place but for materials the Metals Supermarket might be a better place to look.

I used 1 1/2 square tube and 1 1/4 pre drilled square tube which slides into the 1 1/2. 4 " flat bar and angle bar. All items can be gotten at home depot or lows. Tires came from tractor supply which was the most expensive part of project. The tube was 14 guage or 3/32 for thickness.

2032r gen1

I agree that metals supermarket is the place to go. They know what fits in what. As for trailer hitch tubing they carry a special square tube just for that purpose. It is the correct size and thickness. It has the correct corner radius for a tight fit. The ball mounts on heavy duty hitches have very square corners so standard square tubing won't fit tight.

MMike, I Really LIKE your design! I don't know how much thought or knowledge was put into it, but I like to comment on a few features for those following!

Utilizing square tubing vs round gives more surface area to weld and results in a stronger assembly. As an example: If the horizontal support was round tubing, it would have to be ground to match the radius on the vertical tube and have a circumference of 4.7" to weld the joint. If 1 1/2" square tube, a simple saw cut and 6" to apply weld. Welding the square tubing to the flat mounting plate is also easier/better than with round tubing. I know we're only talking about holding a few hundred pounds, but if the rake starts bouncing, the load on the weld is greatly increased.

When I build mine, and I will, I'll have 2 minor modifications: fasteners holding casters will have nuts on bottom...only because mine is store outside in the elements. I'd add 1 possibly 2 additional holes in the outer vertical tube for a more finite adjustment. Bob

The wheel set in your stock photo is the palletforks.com set. I bought it when it was $100 cheaper but had to order three times to get a complete set. Packaging was atrocious and parts kept getting lost along the way. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

The wheels on the set are too close to the rake to work well. I ended up modifying mine. That said mine are sitting in the barn removed from the rake right now. You can regulate rake height pretty good with your 3pt adjustment.

Standard square tube will not fit tight unless you get interchanging sizes and then you will have to grind the weld out of the inside of the larger tube. Typical trailer hitch size has 2" OD tube inside 2-1/2", 1/4" wall tube. I have seen lazy people use 2-1/2", 3/16" wall tube for the outer. 2" slides inside without having to grind anything but it fits sloppy.

The tube on my titan set was 2" ID so I cut them and added a piece of 2" inside to extend them.

Here is a photo of my modified set.


You can buy wheels, forks, and spacers from Agri Supply. This set for a Coroni mower says the shaft is 31/32" so I assume it fits nice in a 1" ID pipe or tube. As noted if you buy tube it is sold OD so you determine ID by subtracting the wall thickness times 2 from the OD.

Trailer jacks are ~$20 each. 10" balloon caster tires from harbor freight I think were under $10 each. Some 2x2 square tube and 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/4" wall square tube. Good to go. Nice thing about the jacks is they are infinitely adjustable in height.

DeanB said:

Trailer jacks are ~$20 each. 10" balloon caster tires from harbor freight I think were under $10 each. Some 2x2 square tube and 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/4" wall square tube. Good to go. Nice thing about the jacks is they are infinitely adjustable in height.

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Great idea there! That also happens to be the same rake I have I think, King Kutter XB? Do you ever find the trailer jacks height adjustment "drift" during use? I have a set of fixed 8" tires I was trying to use, an extra set from a movers dolly, but this might just sway me to do otherwise.

I also appreciate your simplistic kickstand idea. I've been using a 5 gallon bucket upside down. It also works well and the rake clears it when lifted all the way up. Its fine as long as you always set it down in the same place.

I made my rake QH compatible first (some 1/4" plate), wheels are next on the list.

DeanB said:

Trailer jacks are ~$20 each. 10" balloon caster tires from harbor freight I think were under $10 each. Some 2x2 square tube and 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/4" wall square tube. Good to go. Nice thing about the jacks is they are infinitely adjustable in height.
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I like this idea. I am going to copy it.

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