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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Ya’ll,

The hubs and I are having trouble getting the mower deck to lock into position correctly. This is the first time we’ve tried to put it back on. We had trouble getting the mid PTO to line up as well, but we were able to fix that. Now we can’t get the rear right lock to engage, because the mower isn’t sitting the the rear draft arm slot all the way.

We’ve tried taking it on and off, as well as using the garage concrete slab (scraped the hell out of it btw), the gravel driveway, and next on the list is to try the dirt. The slab was a flat, level surface but the driveway was sloped a little.

We are also having trouble with the front link arms getting caught on the loader arms, even though I had the loader raised pretty high.

I tried to attach a picture of “frank” lifting round bales in all his glory. Hope it worked!

We’re about ready to pull our hair out. Any suggestions?
 

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I’ve heard it said that you shouldn’t have the loader on when attaching/removing the MMM. That said I sometimes do have the loader on. I always make sure if I do then I have something heavy on the 3-point hitch so I reduce the weight on the mower deck while driving over. I’ve never had an issue with the loader on, I just raise it way up to be safe. As for the rear MMM attachment points, I’ve found that dirt/grass work best over gravel/concrete. It seems to resist the deck sliding as much so it locks in better. Maybe 25% of the time I do still need to hit the mower deck with a rubber mallet or my boot to get it back enough to lock. I believe I heard of people on the forum parking the deck on rubber mats when parked on concrete to prevent slippage. It seems like you’d need enough mats so the whole tractor was up on them though.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! I was wondering about the dirt working better because of resistance. I’m lazy and don’t want to have to take the loader off if I don’t have too. We’ll give it a shot!

I’ve heard it said that you shouldn’t have the loader on when attaching/removing the MMM. That said I sometimes do have the loader on. I always make sure if I do then I have something heavy on the 3-point hitch so I reduce the weight on the mower deck while driving over. I’ve never had an issue with the loader on, I just raise it way up to be safe. As for the rear MMM attachment points, I’ve found that dirt/grass work best over gravel/concrete. It seems to resist the deck sliding as much so it locks in better. Maybe 25% of the time I do still need to hit the mower deck with a rubber mallet or my boot to get it back enough to lock. I believe I heard of people on the forum parking the deck on rubber mats when parked on concrete to prevent slippage. It seems like you’d need enough mats so the whole tractor was up on them though.



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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

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Hi Ya’ll,

The hubs and I are having trouble getting the mower deck to lock into position correctly. This is the first time we’ve tried to put it back on. We had trouble getting the mid PTO to line up as well, but we were able to fix that. Now we can’t get the rear right lock to engage, because the mower isn’t sitting the the rear draft arm slot all the way.
I initially had a similar problem with my 2032R. I adjusted the position of the front link arms to push the deck slightly further back when the front link was hooked on the frame of the tractor, and haven't had an issue since.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you adjust the front link arms by tightening the locknuts (c) as shown in the diagram? We were thinking the arms might be to short as well. If you didn’t do it by tightening the locknuts, how did you do it? Thanks!

I initially had a similar problem with my 2032R. I adjusted the position of the front link arms to push the deck slightly further back when the front link was hooked on the frame of the tractor, and haven't had an issue since.
 

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Did you adjust the front link arms by tightening the locknuts (c) as shown in the diagram? We were thinking the arms might be to short as well. If you didn’t do it by tightening the locknuts, how did you do it? Thanks!
Yep, that's all it took. I wrestled with it a few times before I figured out what it was - it didn't take much but once I got it figured out, my 9 year old could do it (literally - I think he uses it more than I do!).

Edit: I looked at your picture a little closer, that's not quite how mine looks. The nuts I adjusted are circled in red.

deck.PNG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you! We’ll mess around with it on Sunday and see what happens. Appreciate the help!

Yep, that's all it took. I wrestled with it a few times before I figured out what it was - it didn't take much but once I got it figured out, my 9 year old could do it (literally - I think he uses it more than I do!).

Edit: I looked at your picture a little closer, that's not quite how mine looks. The nuts I adjusted are circled in red.

View attachment 679918
 

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Same with my 2038R / 60D. I had to readjust the bracket on the 2 threaded rods with 4 nuts as in the photo with red circles.
Just moved it in and out until the rear hooks locked by themselves.
Also, notice the spring in the photo (which holds the front bracket up). You may have to add spacers at the top (just remove pin, add washers, re-pin) if the front bracket is too high and hits your FEL parking stand. There is a thread on here somewhere about that.
 

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The picture above is a 4 series, same concept, different design. You should have a small gap up front when your deck is on the ground, this will take pressure off the back and keep your rear locks loose enough to flip over. The manual gives you a measurement, but after 40 plus 2038R/2032R's it is always different after adjustment.
 

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The picture above is a 4 series, same concept, different design. You should have a small gap up front when your deck is on the ground, this will take pressure off the back and keep your rear locks loose enough to flip over. The manual gives you a measurement, but after 40 plus 2038R/2032R's it is always different after adjustment.
That photo is exactly like my 2038r’s. Extending the from arm will fix it and it will only take about 3 flats of nut adjustment to correct it if it that close. I find mine always works better on a hard flat surface like blacktop or concrete.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update for everyone who kindly replied: we fixed it!! When we took delivery of the tractor from the dealer, the factory did not tighten the bolt assembly hardware for the mid PTO correctly. When we took the mower off the first time, the whole bolt assembly hardware fell off onto the driveway. We called the dealer, and the service manager came out to install a new set as the old bolt had stripped threads.

When he put the new assembly on, the bolt was too long. So he flipped it in the way it would fit (which was backwards) and installed it. That bolt was too long and hitting the right rear lock on the mower, which of course wasn’t allowing it to slid into position. I circled the problem in red in the picture below.

We cut and grinded the bolt ourselves, and reinstalled it. Now it works!! Lesson learned, don’t trust the factory or the techs to do things right. This was Ag Pro in Newnan, GA.

Thanks to all who replied!

That photo is exactly like my 2038r’s. Extending the from arm will fix it and it will only take about 3 flats of nut adjustment to correct it if it that close. I find mine always works better on a hard flat surface like blacktop or concrete.
 

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I'm willing to bet the deck and auto-connect mechanism was installed by the dealer not the factory. The Service Manager installs the wrong size bolt and leaves without testing it out is another indication of the kind of quality work they do.:banghead:
 

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Update for everyone who kindly replied: we fixed it!! When we took delivery of the tractor from the dealer, the factory did not tighten the bolt assembly hardware for the mid PTO correctly. When we took the mower off the first time, the whole bolt assembly hardware fell off onto the driveway. We called the dealer, and the service manager came out to install a new set as the old bolt had stripped threads.

When he put the new assembly on, the bolt was too long. So he flipped it in the way it would fit (which was backwards) and installed it. That bolt was too long and hitting the right rear lock on the mower, which of course wasn’t allowing it to slid into position. I circled the problem in red in the picture below.

We cut and grinded the bolt ourselves, and reinstalled it. Now it works!! Lesson learned, don’t trust the factory or the techs to do things right. This was Ag Pro in Newnan, GA.

Thanks to all who replied!
I'm willing to bet the deck and auto-connect mechanism was installed by the dealer not the factory. The Service Manager installs the wrong size bolt and leaves without testing it out is another indication of the kind of quality work they do.:banghead:
Glad you got it figured out! I agree with jsb2b about the quality of the dealer's work.... very poor indeed! When I took delivery of my 2038R I had the dealer demonstrate installing and removing every attachment I purchased to ensure two things; 1. That I know how to remove and install each attachment, and 2. to ensure that all required parts are being provided at time of delivery. Not that I didn't trust my dealer.... stuff happens... and I didn't watt to drive 2.5 hours each way back to the dealer if they omitted something...

Sincerely
 

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I initially had a similar problem with my 2032R. I adjusted the position of the front link arms to push the deck slightly further back when the front link was hooked on the frame of the tractor, and haven't had an issue since.
That's the fix! Mine had the same problem.
 
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