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I had the dealer install the Independent Lift on my 1025r some time ago. It has acted up a few times before but always straightened out after running awhile. But today I went to use it and it will not work at all. Since I did not install it I don't know exactly where the valve is located and the deck is all the way up in lock position so can't really get a good look underneath. And can't remove the deck to get it out of the way since the lift doesn't work. :banghead:

I've checked the switch and it is good, has 12 volts across it and drops to 0 when switched, but no click can be heard and the deck doesn't move so I assume the valve is bad. My question is can anyone tell me where the valve is located and if it can be accessed from the top by removing a floorboard or?
 

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The valve is mounted almost dead center of the floor board if I remember correctly from when I installed it.


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It is bolted to the bottom side of a steel frame cross plate. So you will not be able to access it by removing the floor board.

If the deck is all the way up, stack up some blocking for a fulcrum point and then use a 2x4 or similar as a pry to lift the deck enough to take the load of the stepped cam, so you can have an assistant turn the dial to "install". Be sure you have everything prepped for removal.
 

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It is bolted to the bottom side of a steel frame cross plate. So you will not be able to access it by removing the floor board.
I may be wrong but I thought the valve cartridge and solenoid were accessible from the top side. The ports in the valve body are below the plate, so those aren't accessible.


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I had the dealer install the Independent Lift on my 1025r some time ago. It has acted up a few times before but always straightened out after running awhile. But today I went to use it and it will not work at all. Since I did not install it I don't know exactly where the valve is located and the deck is all the way up in lock position so can't really get a good look underneath. And can't remove the deck to get it out of the way since the lift doesn't work. :banghead:

I've checked the switch and it is good, has 12 volts across it and drops to 0 when switched, but no click can be heard and the deck doesn't move so I assume the valve is bad. My question is can anyone tell me where the valve is located and if it can be accessed from the top by removing a floorboard or?
It is interesting you say the voltage drops to 0 when the switch is "switched". I assume you are checking the voltage feeding the switch and the switch output. The voltage feeding the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it all the time with the key turned on. The output of the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it when the momentary rocker switch is held in the on (lift) position.

So, it would be normal if the output voltage goes to 0 volts when the switch is in it normal, off, position. But when it is held in the lift position, both terminals on the rocker switch should be at 12 VDC.

If the voltage at the output of the rocker switch is at 0 volts when it is held to lift, there is a voltage supply problem.

I would check the input (terminal 2) to the rocker switch, both when the switch is in its normal position and also when it is held in the lift position. The 12 VDC input volt should be constant. Then do the same thing at the output terminal. The voltage should be 0 volts with the rocker switch in its normal position. It should be 12 VDC when the switch is held in the lift position. If it isn't, you most likely have a bad rocker switch.

To check the solenoid, temporarily jumper the two wires on the back of the rocker switch together with the engine running. The solenoid valve should shift and the mmm should lift.

As others have said, the solenoid valve is mounted under the frame, centered in the tractor.
 

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It is interesting you say the voltage drops to 0 when the switch is "switched". I assume you are checking the voltage feeding the switch and the switch output. The voltage feeding the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it all the time with the key turned on. The output of the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it when the momentary rocker switch is held in the on (lift) position.

So, it would be normal if the output voltage goes to 0 volts when the switch is in it normal, off, position. But when it is held in the lift position, both terminals on the rocker switch should be at 12 VDC.

If the voltage at the output of the rocker switch is at 0 volts when it is held to lift, there is a voltage supply problem.

I would check the input (terminal 2) to the rocker switch, both when the switch is in its normal position and also when it is held in the lift position. The 12 VDC input volt should be constant. Then do the same thing at the output terminal. The voltage should be 0 volts with the rocker switch in its normal position. It should be 12 VDC when the switch is held in the lift position. If it isn't, you most likely have a bad rocker switch.

To check the solenoid, temporarily jumper the two wires on the back of the rocker switch together with the engine running. The solenoid valve should shift and the mmm should lift.

As others have said, the solenoid valve is mounted under the frame, centered in the tractor.
If he was measuring across the switch terminals, his results would be correct for a normal functioning circuit. Also, if we were confident the 12 volt supply to the switch was OK, it would indicate the switch was OK and likely the coil of the solenoid valve. Ray offered good advise. You'll want to make those voltage measurements referenced to ground (negative lead of voltmeter connected to ground.)

There is a two circuit metripack connector, just behind the engine, under the console, where the harness from the solenoid connects. It is accessible, not necessarily easily. You could open that up and check for continuity and resistance across the solenoid. It shouldn't be more than a few ohms. If that checks OK, you can try applying 12 volts across the connector and see if the solenoid activates.
 
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It is interesting you say the voltage drops to 0 when the switch is "switched". I assume you are checking the voltage feeding the switch and the switch output. The voltage feeding the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it all the time with the key turned on. The output of the rocker switch should have 12 VDC at it when the momentary rocker switch is held in the on (lift) position.

So, it would be normal if the output voltage goes to 0 volts when the switch is in it normal, off, position. But when it is held in the lift position, both terminals on the rocker switch should be at 12 VDC.

If the voltage at the output of the rocker switch is at 0 volts when it is held to lift, there is a voltage supply problem.

I would check the input (terminal 2) to the rocker switch, both when the switch is in its normal position and also when it is held in the lift position. The 12 VDC input volt should be constant. Then do the same thing at the output terminal. The voltage should be 0 volts with the rocker switch in its normal position. It should be 12 VDC when the switch is held in the lift position. If it isn't, you most likely have a bad rocker switch.
I should have been more clear about checking the switch. Checking from the switch input terminal to ground it has 12 volts. Checking across the switch terminals of course there is 12 volts since the switch is open with the other terminal being at ground potential thru the solenoid coil. Checking across it while activating the switch reads zero since when the switch closes both terminals are at 12 volts, hence no voltage differential between them. 12 volts is there at the switch and it is closing and passing the 12 volts to the other terminal.

To check the solenoid, temporarily jumper the two wires on the back of the rocker switch together with the engine running. The solenoid valve should shift and the mmm should lift.
Tried that, no joy.

If he was measuring across the switch terminals, his results would be correct for a normal functioning circuit. Also, if we were confident the 12 volt supply to the switch was OK, it would indicate the switch was OK and likely the coil of the solenoid valve. Ray offered good advise. You'll want to make those voltage measurements referenced to ground (negative lead of voltmeter connected to ground.)

There is a two circuit metripack connector, just behind the engine, under the console, where the harness from the solenoid connects. It is accessible, not necessarily easily. You could open that up and check for continuity and resistance across the solenoid. It shouldn't be more than a few ohms. If that checks OK, you can try applying 12 volts across the connector and see if the solenoid activates.
I've checked continuity from the output switch terminal to ground which should be checking across the coil of the solenoid, reads about 7 ohms. So I'd say the coil is OK, and not shorted or it would be blowing fuses. From what I've seen either by activating the switch or shorting the connectors, 12 volts applied to the solenoid will not actuate the valve, for whatever reason. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the valve is sticking or broken such that the solenoid can't open it.

I think the next step will be to rig a harness to lift the deck enough with the overhead hoist to be able to turn the depth knob to Install so I can get the deck off the tractor. Haven't had the time or the inclination to pursue it right now, its too danged hot. I've about given up trying to mow with this thing anyway, have tried both the mechanical lift and this independent lift, both have been just one problem after another. Really glad I kept my Kubota zero-turn.

Thanks for the replies.
 

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I should have been more clear about checking the switch. Checking from the switch input terminal to ground it has 12 volts. Checking across the switch terminals of course there is 12 volts since the switch is open with the other terminal being at ground potential thru the solenoid coil. Checking across it while activating the switch reads zero since when the switch closes both terminals are at 12 volts, hence no voltage differential between them. 12 volts is there at the switch and it is closing and passing the 12 volts to the other terminal.



Tried that, no joy.



I've checked continuity from the output switch terminal to ground which should be checking across the coil of the solenoid, reads about 7 ohms. So I'd say the coil is OK, and not shorted or it would be blowing fuses. From what I've seen either by activating the switch or shorting the connectors, 12 volts applied to the solenoid will not actuate the valve, for whatever reason. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the valve is sticking or broken such that the solenoid can't open it.

I think the next step will be to rig a harness to lift the deck enough with the overhead hoist to be able to turn the depth knob to Install so I can get the deck off the tractor. Haven't had the time or the inclination to pursue it right now, its too danged hot. I've about given up trying to mow with this thing anyway, have tried both the mechanical lift and this independent lift, both have been just one problem after another. Really glad I kept my Kubota zero-turn.

Thanks for the replies.
Just a thought, by chance do you have the PB on your tractor. Maybe the jumper hose at the rear isn't connected correctly. :dunno:
 

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Just a thought, by chance do you have the PB on your tractor. Maybe the jumper hose at the rear isn't connected correctly. :dunno:
Nope, no PB or backhoe.
 
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