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Discussion Starter #1
Currently I run a l 120 thats a 22hp 48 inch cut With this I pull 2 swisher 60 inch mowers. Total cut is just under 14 feet.In most cases everything works just fine. This year we had lots of rain and things are soft.This makes for a harder pull and my hydro isn't pulling after about 2 hours .Seems as it gets hot or slips but i'm just guessing.I unhook the swishers and can drive away.After a couple of hours of rest I'm back to mowing with the towbehinds as usual. I cut roughly once a week for 2-2.5 hours mostly flat to low slop lawn.I'm happy with this setup but am thinking I need more trans power for the pulling.Current L 120 is about 5 yrs old and in beautifull shape.Think I should upgrade.What model should I go to for better trans power soI have better pulling power.I only use this unit for lawn mowing but have alarge acreage. Thanks
 

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I don't know hydro drives, but it would seem the fluid must be getting too hot after two hours. Have you ever changed the fluid in the transmission?

Your next tractor will need a good HD transmission and a big cooler for it. I think that would be a x320 or larger....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree I'am over working the 120 .But with all deere equipment they surpass what would normally be accepted .At least in my opinion.That being said it worked fine for 5 years although not with an abundance of extra pulling power.I guess this just should show us all what the small 120 is capable of. I have the hp but need more trans power.What is the least expensive tractor unit I can get in a deere and have a stronger trans unit.And will this turn into more pull or lugging power. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good idea I will change hydralic oil . I'd like to upgrade oil when I do. Any sugestions as to what type? I know deere makes some high temp greases but what about oils?
 

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As I recall, the Tuff-Torq K46 trannies used in the 'L' series lawn tractors are not meant to be serviced. I've heard they can be removed and rebuilt.

Just because a lawn tractor says Deere on the hood doesn't make it any better than any other BBM (Big Box Mart) lawn tractor. I'd recommend you ask some of the guys who own 'X' series tractors about their experiences with them, and if they think they are better suited for your application.
 

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As I recall, the Tuff-Torq K46 trannies used in the 'L' series lawn tractors are not meant to be serviced. I've heard they can be removed and rebuilt.
So does that mean you cant change the oil in it?

What I was gonna reccomend is what I've seen some "old timers" do...run thicker oil like Brian mentioned. In this instance Id run the normal JD HyGard.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I pulled out the rear axle and changed the oil. I put in full synthetic 0-40 this should disapate heat better.You just pull it out and dump it upside down.Taking it out takes just over 15 minutes.Then pull the rubber plug dump and refill.That being done it's just fine i imagine.I found my problem and ordered the part.While trans axle was out of tractor I noticed the white fan just below the belt pulley.The fan blades were only about 1/4 " long obviously chewed down by some object which must have got jammed in there.I suspect with out the fan my oil didn't cool and I lost power after a few hours.With a little luck my Deere dealer says I'll have the fan tomarrow .It's about a 10 second job to put on.Then I'll reinstall the axle.I'm sure it will take me longer to pick up the part than to reinstall. Now that being said I have another idea.On top of the trans axle is the 3" pulley which drives the axle.If I could change out this pulley to a different size 1/4 to1/2" larger or smaller should change my drive ratio.This should give me more lug power.At first I thought I'd have to go smaller but then after talking to the parts guy he figures i need to go bigger . I want to gear it down to increase power.Thought I had it all figured out but now I'm just confused. Being it is not the last gear in the line up [the transaxle being a searies of gears after the pulley] like I said I'm confused.So do I go bigger or smaller to achieve less speed and more power? And can I maybe find this pulley in a different size on another tractor? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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If the engine is not bogging down I wouldn't bother with changing out the pulley to a larger size. I have an L130 and grass will slow it down occasionally but the transaxle doesn't change it. Further the way to gain more torque at the wheels is to back off the forward pedal that is how the hydrostatics work.

Look at the Tuff Torq thread posted today, you can rebuild your transaxle with parts from TuffTorq they are the supplier of these transazles.
 

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I completely agree with Jenkinsph. Changing a pulley on a hydrostatic drive will be a complete waste of time. The only thing you are going to notice is a change in top-end speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I rethought this pulley idea.I agree I think it's a waste of time.If I go with a smaller size pulley the only thing I will gain will be to pump the oil faster .Increasing the oil pressure will not change anything although if this was a geared rear end it would change the speed and torq . Anyway I reinstalled the transaxle .I tested it for 1.5 hours tractor mowing only.Then I hooked up the 2 left and right 60" swishers I pulled for another 1.5 hours cutting with all three .All is well and working fine. My engine sputtered a few times and I noticed my fuel filter is running lean I blew it out but time for a new one soon. Like to thank everyone for all their help .Some times aguy just needs the obvious stated to get on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Now there is an idea.Did you put it next to the filter in line or where? Mine starts well but I need to run the starter for a lot of revolutions to bring up the fuel.At least I'm guessing That is what takes time for it to fire.As far as the photos I'm not to handy with that but I'm sure my kids could.First I'll have to pry him off the x- box?
 

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I installed it on the side of the engine where the fuel line passes by. Nothing complex at all, just routed around the existing fuel pump and hooked it to the ignition switch. Turn on the key and wait a couple of seconds you will hear the fuel pump slow down when it pressures up. Turn to start and choke it, starts instantly every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good job.I like the nice and easy part.Maybe I'll be able to put the battery charger away for good now.I'll try to get to nappa today.
 
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