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I'm new to the forum but over the last few weeks have read every thread I could find on the new(er) 2032R and 2038R. I have a couple of specific questions for which I'd greatly appreciate input, particularly from those who have owned a new series 2032R or 2038R for a while, and even more particularly if you have use the 59" front snow blower.

I live on about 2 acres of property but would mostly use a new tractor on my 100 acres of bush land an hour and half away. Over the next few years on the 100 acres I intend to improve the road into the property (about 1/4 mile), clear an area to build a new cabin, move a few hundred yards of stone and gravel to make a dam/bridge across the end of a beaver pond, and pull modest size firewood logs and/or small trailer loads of firewood out of the bush. Once the cabin is built and I retire a few years from now, I plan to spend a lot of time there, including in the winter. At that point I plan to buy the 59" front snowblower, and will be keeping about half a mile of road/driveway clear for winter access. It's not a super high snow area, but it's not unusual to get a foot or more at a time, and build up 3+ ft of snow in the bush by mid winter. Wet snow and layers of freezing rain are also not uncommon.

I"m pretty much set on either the 2032R or 2038R but am struggling to decide which one to buy (as so many have!). I plan to get the FEL and backhoe when I order the tractor. I won't be using a mower on it, although there is a slight possibility I might get a 4 or 5 foot bush hog at some point. I doubt I'd ever invest in a wood chipper (cheap to rent and who needs it with 100 acres to let branches decay into soil). However, the 59" snow blower is definitely in the plans for the future, and I think this is probably the only reason to even consider going beyond the 2032R.

Which brings me to my questions:
Would the 2038R be a better choice particularly for the 59" front snow blower? I know more power is always better if affordable, but here in Canada it's a $2500 upper to get the 2038 (about US$1800 at the current exchange rate). I don't think any of my other applications would require the extra horsepower. It would be great to hear from those of you who have the 59" front blower on either the 2032 or 2038. I could swing the extra $2500 if the extra hp truly made a difference, but as others have said, that money could also be used for some other options (like box blade, dipper thumb, etc.) Of course, I'd buy those anyway but you get the point!

Any concerns over longevity or reported problems with the turbo on the 2038R? Of course any extra parts means potential for failure, but some say the small tractor turbos are relatively bulletproof. On the bright side, JD has a 6 year powertrain warranty, so that provides some peace of mind.

Also, my dealer says that JD strongly discourages loading the rear tires on the 2 series tractor. They'll do it if I ask, but they highly recommend just using the backhoe or ballast box for rear end weight. He says the concern with the loaded tires is the extra twist it puts on the frame on uneven ground, and also transfers some of that weight to the front axle under some situation such as downhill side slope, which can make the front axle fail prematurely. Any thoughts on load/no-load in the tires would be appreciated.

And then there's the tire question: I won't be mowing but will occasionally be driving over sod that I'd rather not tear to pieces, so I won't go ag tires, but am trying to determine whether to go with industrial (R4) tires or the R3 turf tires. It seems may say the turf tires are better on snow and ice, but my area is fairly flat so that may not be an issue. My concern is more with using the tractor in the bush on hills and some side slopes. Could be dirt/leaves/rocks/roots on the hills in the bush, and of course water/mud in a few low lying areas. I need a tire that is tough on the occasional sharp rock edge or small diameter stump, while still giving good forward and side traction. Advice would be appreciated

Final question: do I need to have the in-line heater and/or transmission heater installed (don't think they have a traditional "block heater") for starting in cold weather? Normal mid-winter weather in my area is nights down around 0F but 20 below F is not unheard of for short stretches. I don't have grid power up on my 100 acres, but could use a generator if needed to plug it in for a while.

Apologies for the long winded explanation and questions but it would be great to hear the advice from those who have experience with these 2 series tractors in these conditions.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Holy long post!

I will let some of the resident expert owners here who’ve had their machines longer answer your questions. Lots of great members here with lots of helpful knowledge.

My story was, I wanted the top of the line 2r model, turbo and all! Damn wants vs needs. My advice is get every darn option you can NOW. I’m going back for a backhoe this spring and kicking myself I didn’t get it a year ago with the tractor :banghead:
 

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I"m pretty much set on either the 2032R or 2038R but am struggling to decide which one to buy (as so many have!). I plan to get the FEL and backhoe when I order the tractor.
Just curious as to why you picked the 2032/2038R tractors?

100 acres to manage et al........... get a bigger tractor. I would think you should be starting at the 3 series.
 

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From what you explain in paragraph 2 of your post I would be considering a 3 or 4 series tractor.

You are concentrating on horse power and not frame size. I think you need to look at that.

And about the loaded tires - this is the first time I have ever heard such a thing. For your intended use I would not hesitate to load the rear tires.

It sounds like this will be a lifetime purchase. Consider those larger frame tractors and also consider a cab. If you are going to retire there and do snow removal on a 1/2 mile road a cab will be a certain necessity. Yeah, the sticker shock will be present but buy it once and buy it right.
 

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Also, my dealer says that JD strongly discourages loading the rear tires on the 2 series tractor. They'll do it if I ask, but they highly recommend just using the backhoe or ballast box for rear end weight. He says the concern with the loaded tires is the extra twist it puts on the frame on uneven ground, and also transfers some of that weight to the front axle under some situation such as downhill side slope, which can make the front axle fail prematurely. Any thoughts on load/no-load in the tires would be appreciated.
Wow... that's a new one. It would be interesting to know exactly where the dealer got this information as the 220R loader operator's manual lists the items below. Also, there is no difference to the drive train between wheel weights and fluid filled tires and JD still lists wheel weights as a configurable option in the 2-series Build Your Own tool.

The system (tractor/loader) always requires to be counterbalanced. Depending on the system, there are three possible areas required to add ballast. They can be one or a combination of the following: Fluid in the tires, rear wheel weights, and a 3-point hitch ballast.

Fluid Filled Rear Tires
When using fluid in the rear wheels for ballasting, do not fill the tires more than 75% allowing for expansion. Use a mixture of 1.6 kg (3.5 lb) of calcium chloride to 4 L (1 gal) of water when filling the rear tires.
Minimum Rear Ballast

368 kg (811 lb) rear hitch ballast




 

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Keeping a half mile road open with a blower with no cab....no problem....if you can control wind direction, which you obviously cannot.
Get a 3046 with cab and R4 tires.
That was easy. What's next?
 

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I've gone back and forth on this 100 times, and my perspective is evolving, so I keep contributing to these threads. My apologies to those tired of reading my posts on this subject.

I bought a 2032R and if I had it to do over, I would have bought a 2038. But...my reason may not be what you think. When I bought it, it was supposed to be my last tractor. Then, just a few months later, my financial situation changed dramatically. And now there's no way it's going to be my last tractor. I am waiting for a redesign of the 3R series.

My reasoning is simple. The combination of modern emissions equipment (DPF, etc.) and a turbo are a potential for disaster (do you have the same emissions tech in Canada?). I just heard a story, for example, from my dealership's service department about a larger tractor with a twin turbo, where one feeds into the other. The first one spilled something into the second one, which caused it to fail, which in turn caused a failure of the DPF, which caused so much heat that the exhaust "chimney" was glowing red. It destroyed the engine compartment and melted the windshield of the tractor cab. Without the DPF, odds are the guy would have noticed the power loss before engine damage and it would have been a simple turbo replacement. But the DPF turned it into a catastrophic failure. Fortunately he was under warranty. There are many examples of DPF related turbo failure in the commercial on-road diesel truck world (and turbo related DPF failtures), but with tractors, this is a relatively new thing. DPFs were added to most JD turbo tractors around 2014-2016, depending on model. These are all new and we have yet too see what will happen (and we won't for many years). A turbo itself is one of the most reliable components on a diesel. But the turbo itself is not really my concern. If I were buying "my last tractor," that I intended to keep until it or I died, you could not force me to buy a turbo at gun point. But, with the long warranties that are currently being doubled, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if I knew I was going to sell it or trade it in before it exploded.

Also, I am a district fire commissioner, and when talking about purchasing fire trucks with commissioners from other districts, there seems to be a consensus forming that the new diesels with the emissions components won't last nearly as long as the old ones, so we have to budget/plan accordingly. I have no evidence of this as our district only has one new truck with emissions tech, but that is what the others are saying.

It's not that I think all or most of these turbo tractors are going to explode. It's more like IF this happened to my tractor when it was out of warranty, it would be an epic disaster. But now I probably won't have my tractor when it's out of warranty, so the issue is moot.

As for your questions...the snowblower is not really a HP intensive task, though it can be under some circumstances. I know that sounds odd, but the issue is that HP lets you go faster, and if you go too fast with a snowblower, you spill snow over the top and around the sides. I run a 64" rear blower and I can't max out the tractor's speed without spilling what I consider too much snow. Now if you hit a very tall drift that's higher than your blower, that becomes a HP intensive task and you can go faster with more power without messing up what you're doing. I don't know how much faster, but I don't imagine it would be much. We get very tall drifts but a turbo would save me 5 minutes a month. Your situation may vary, but you're going to be running a substantially smaller blower (the rear 64 is not only wider but significantly taller than the front 59).

Brush hogging is a great example of something that is always better/faster with more HP. No ifs, ands or buts.

I love the 2032R, I don't need the extra HP, and I don't regret buying it at all. But since I now know I will trade/sell it, had I known that when I bought it, I would have paid the extra for the turbo, because there would be no reason not to. The 3R tractor I trade it for won't be my last one either, so I will buy the most powerful one just because.
 

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I noticed you asked about block heaters and transmission oil heaters. They do make a block heater for the large 2R. I have both it and the transmission heater. You don't need either, but they sure are nice to have, and they don't cost much. So why not.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Holy long post!

I will let some of the resident expert owners here who’ve had their machines longer answer your questions. Lots of great members here with lots of helpful knowledge.

My story was, I wanted the top of the line 2r model, turbo and all! Damn wants vs needs. My advice is get every darn option you can NOW. I’m going back for a backhoe this spring and kicking myself I didn’t get it a year ago with the tractor :banghead:

One of the reasons I'm wavering on the 2032 vs 2038 is that the extra $ saved on the 32 would help with getting some of those options!
 

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Since I only have about 12 hours on my first tractor, I can not be the voice of experience. However your questions echoed so many of my own so I thought I'd share my reasoning. Only time will tell if I got it right for my circumstances.

I have 7-1/2 acres in central NY so our climate and winters are similar. I have one small slope and the rest is relatively flat. I didn't plan to farm but I have a fair bit of things planned to do. Primary concern was a front mount snow blower as I just can't turn around like I used to.

I got the 59" snow blower and so far it is the only thing I have used. My 2032R seems to be about right and has no problems with it. I have a ballast box on the back with sand bags for now. I also have the FEL, BH, tiller and rake. Though the BH would balance out the SB, it would make the whole thing longer in a limited space. I didn't want the mower.

I got the OTC soft cab so I can remove it with the snow blower. For this size a cab interfers with the BH seat making it an either/or choice for me. I also like the open air when it isn't winter.

Mud season here is a definite concern. I chose the R4 tires for traction and even seriously considered Ag tires. Even though I don't want to tear up the lawn, getting stuck once would do it. Everything I own has been stuck in my back yard at least once. Tread patterns smooth down faster than ruts. Though filling the tires would give me more weight and stability, I could always do it later if needed. I wanted to keep the weight down for now.

The dealer laughed when I insisted on chains. The ladder chains on the R4 tires are really not a good match as you wobble all over. I took them off once delivered and haven't missed them so far. The plus for me was the gotcha's. Chains required adding rear wheel spacers to ensure clearance for the power beyond used for the BH. Another benefit is a slightly wider stance and a little better stability. Now I am set for chains and plan on a different style for when I need them. The R4 and MFWD seemed to work OK, even on some ice this winter. I have also learned to check into other possible gotchas before making any changes.

Get the water heater intalled. You will need it sometimes in winter. Beginner thinking says the engine will appreciate a warm start even if it isn't cold enough to be a must.

If I had that much land to seriously work I would have gone for bigger, a 3 or even 4 series. Still, small and nimble has it's place. I am not positive, but I think a hard cab and BH don't interfere with each other on the larger sizes.

Based on my limited experience I would recommend getting everything you think you want on the initial purchase. I think you'll get a better deal overall. Going back, even the next month, to get something seems to jack up the price. And it seems that my dealer doesn't want to sell some things unless they install it too. I still have to test them on that this year.

Things I wish I had gotten at the beginning: sub soiler to improve drainage, pallet forks, and the FEL hydraulic quick attach (or whatever it is called). I asked about it and was told they couldn't because of the snow blower. I went back with proof it can be done by the dealer and they quoted me $800 for the kit and $300 to install. They insist on doing the install. I also want to get a remote spout control for the SB. Handy in confined areas. I love the idea of a grapple but I am not sure I can make best use of it. Maybe a BH thumb.

I am still learning and this site has helped. Since my tractor was delivered just in time for winter, I haven't had a chance to use it for anything else yet. As they year goes by I am sure I will learn a lot more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just curious as to why you picked the 2032/2038R tractors?

100 acres to manage et al........... get a bigger tractor. I would think you should be starting at the 3 series.
Very good question - here's my rationale.
For the next 3 to 5 years, I'll still be working and living on my 2 acre property, and will occasionally use the tractor for little jobs around home. (The 2 acre home property is very hilly and rocky with not much lawn so no need for the MMM). During these next few years, I'll be transporting the tractor back and forth to my 100 acres (65 miles away) to use when I'm there. Since I'm still working, I don't get to the 100 acres as often as I'd like, so I really don't want to leave the tractor there unattended. That's a lot of trailering and weight to pull, so I thought that the new 2 series (which is actually not much less weight than the 3 series) would be a good compromise of functionality with less weight. At this point I only have a half ton truck (5 litre F150) which is limited to 9,100 lb towing capacity, and really don't want to invest in a bigger truck at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
From what you explain in paragraph 2 of your post I would be considering a 3 or 4 series tractor.

You are concentrating on horse power and not frame size. I think you need to look at that.

And about the loaded tires - this is the first time I have ever heard such a thing. For your intended use I would not hesitate to load the rear tires.

It sounds like this will be a lifetime purchase. Consider those larger frame tractors and also consider a cab. If you are going to retire there and do snow removal on a 1/2 mile road a cab will be a certain necessity. Yeah, the sticker shock will be present but buy it once and buy it right.

Thanks for that advice. Another member actually quoted a section from the Deere info indicating loaded tires were one of 3 ballast options so I'll definitely be questioning the dealer on their "advice".
I provided a bit more rationale on the choice of frame size in another reply - it's partly due to a lot of trailering (65 miles each way) to the 100 acres over the next few years.
I seriously considered a cab but at the moment my trails through the bush are quite tight and there is a lot of overhanging branches. Part of the reason for the tractor purchase is to help improve the trails and bring out firewood, and I'm concerned about whacking a cab into trees/branches and breaking the glass panels, at least until I have time to open up the trails. I suspect with age and retirement, swapping out for a tractor with a cab - especially for snowplowing - might very well be in the cards.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow... that's a new one. It would be interesting to know exactly where the dealer got this information as the 220R loader operator's manual lists the items below. Also, there is no difference to the drive train between wheel weights and fluid filled tires and JD still lists wheel weights as a configurable option in the 2-series Build Your Own tool.

The system (tractor/loader) always requires to be counterbalanced. Depending on the system, there are three possible areas required to add ballast. They can be one or a combination of the following: Fluid in the tires, rear wheel weights, and a 3-point hitch ballast.

Fluid Filled Rear Tires
When using fluid in the rear wheels for ballasting, do not fill the tires more than 75% allowing for expansion. Use a mixture of 1.6 kg (3.5 lb) of calcium chloride to 4 L (1 gal) of water when filling the rear tires.
Minimum Rear Ballast

368 kg (811 lb) rear hitch ballast




Thanks - this is great information! I'll use the quotes you provided when I go back to talk to the dealership. I should point out that they said "we will load the tires if you want, but we don't recommend it on the compact tractors". I think it's wise to have them loaded and was totally surprised when they said they didn't recommend it. From a functional perspective, I won't have the backhoe on all the time, and carrying a ballast box around eliminates the use of the 3 point hitch for dragging logs, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I noticed you asked about block heaters and transmission oil heaters. They do make a block heater for the large 2R. I have both it and the transmission heater. You don't need either, but they sure are nice to have, and they don't cost much. So why not.
Thanks - I hadn't seen the block heater option but that seems like a no-brainer. I'll definitely add it and also maybe the transmission heater as well. I can get mighty cold in north eastern Ontario!
 

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I'm new to the forum but over the last few weeks have read every thread I could find on the new(er) 2032R and 2038R. I have a couple of specific questions for which I'd greatly appreciate input, particularly from those who have owned a new series 2032R or 2038R for a while, and even more particularly if you have use the 59" front snow blower.

I live on about 2 acres of property but would mostly use a new tractor on my 100 acres of bush land an hour and half away. Over the next few years on the 100 acres I intend to improve the road into the property (about 1/4 mile), clear an area to build a new cabin, move a few hundred yards of stone and gravel to make a dam/bridge across the end of a beaver pond, and pull modest size firewood logs and/or small trailer loads of firewood out of the bush. Once the cabin is built and I retire a few years from now, I plan to spend a lot of time there, including in the winter. At that point I plan to buy the 59" front snowblower, and will be keeping about half a mile of road/driveway clear for winter access. It's not a super high snow area, but it's not unusual to get a foot or more at a time, and build up 3+ ft of snow in the bush by mid winter. Wet snow and layers of freezing rain are also not uncommon.

I"m pretty much set on either the 2032R or 2038R but am struggling to decide which one to buy (as so many have!). I plan to get the FEL and backhoe when I order the tractor. I won't be using a mower on it, although there is a slight possibility I might get a 4 or 5 foot bush hog at some point. I doubt I'd ever invest in a wood chipper (cheap to rent and who needs it with 100 acres to let branches decay into soil). However, the 59" snow blower is definitely in the plans for the future, and I think this is probably the only reason to even consider going beyond the 2032R.

Which brings me to my questions:
Would the 2038R be a better choice particularly for the 59" front snow blower? I know more power is always better if affordable, but here in Canada it's a $2500 upper to get the 2038 (about US$1800 at the current exchange rate). I don't think any of my other applications would require the extra horsepower. It would be great to hear from those of you who have the 59" front blower on either the 2032 or 2038. I could swing the extra $2500 if the extra hp truly made a difference, but as others have said, that money could also be used for some other options (like box blade, dipper thumb, etc.) Of course, I'd buy those anyway but you get the point!

Any concerns over longevity or reported problems with the turbo on the 2038R? Of course any extra parts means potential for failure, but some say the small tractor turbos are relatively bulletproof. On the bright side, JD has a 6 year powertrain warranty, so that provides some peace of mind.

Also, my dealer says that JD strongly discourages loading the rear tires on the 2 series tractor. They'll do it if I ask, but they highly recommend just using the backhoe or ballast box for rear end weight. He says the concern with the loaded tires is the extra twist it puts on the frame on uneven ground, and also transfers some of that weight to the front axle under some situation such as downhill side slope, which can make the front axle fail prematurely. Any thoughts on load/no-load in the tires would be appreciated.

And then there's the tire question: I won't be mowing but will occasionally be driving over sod that I'd rather not tear to pieces, so I won't go ag tires, but am trying to determine whether to go with industrial (R4) tires or the R3 turf tires. It seems may say the turf tires are better on snow and ice, but my area is fairly flat so that may not be an issue. My concern is more with using the tractor in the bush on hills and some side slopes. Could be dirt/leaves/rocks/roots on the hills in the bush, and of course water/mud in a few low lying areas. I need a tire that is tough on the occasional sharp rock edge or small diameter stump, while still giving good forward and side traction. Advice would be appreciated

Final question: do I need to have the in-line heater and/or transmission heater installed (don't think they have a traditional "block heater") for starting in cold weather? Normal mid-winter weather in my area is nights down around 0F but 20 below F is not unheard of for short stretches. I don't have grid power up on my 100 acres, but could use a generator if needed to plug it in for a while.

Apologies for the long winded explanation and questions but it would be great to hear the advice from those who have experience with these 2 series tractors in these conditions.

Thanks in advance!
Good day to you profdave,

I have a model year 2017 2038R TLB with 59" Front Snow Blower, as well as a good many other attachments. My machine has more than 385 hours on it with 100% reliability thus far. I think you will appreciate the added power available from the 38R when blowing heavy wet snow. I used mine to blow 14" of heavy wet snow this past winter and the 38R handled it without issue. I could hear the engine tone changing as I engaged the heavy wet snow but the turbo quickly compensated every time. I have R3 Turfs installed most of time, with the only exception being when I am doing heavy excavation in unprepared areas I install a set of R4s that I also have. I use the R3 Turfs for snow blowing. I run the tractor for mowing on my nicely manicured lawn, so I use the R3 turfs to minimize the damage. I have a Heavy Hitch installed on the rear 3 point hitch with eight 70lb weights that I use for ballast when snow blowing. You might want to consider the R3 Radial tires JD offers. I would describe them as a hybrid tire, somewhere between R4s and R3s. They have a larger contact patch which theoretically will reduce impact damage over the lugs on the R4s, but I'm not sure how they do in turns, etc since I have no direct experience using them. Some of the other forum members on here have written some very positive things about them, so maybe they can chime in on that topic. I also have the engine and transmission heaters installed. I use them on occasion on colder days (below 20F or -7C) during the winter months. I plug them in an hour or so before using the tractor. I think it helps some. The Everything Attachments 55" Wicked Root Rake Grapple is also a nice attachment to have when you're clearing wooded and/or heavily brushed areas. And by the way, Horse Power does make a difference on PTO-driven implements like a snow blower. Heavy wet snow takes a lot more power to move than light fluffy powder... Don't let anyone tell you any different.

Not sure if you've seen any of my online videos of the 2038R in action. Below are a few links to the many videos I have posted. do A WEB Search FOR "2038R Grapple" and/or "HomesteadJoe" or "2038R 59" and a bunch of my videos will pop up in the search results.

Homestead Joe Moving a Boulder with 2038R EA 55” Wicked Root Rake Grapple - YouTube

HomesteadJoe Deere 2038R Blowing Snow with 59” Font Snow Blower - YouTube

John Deere 2038R with 55 Wicked Root Grapple Tackling Big Log - YouTube

John Deere 2038R logging with 55 Wicked Root Grapple - YouTube

Homestead Joe Moving a Boulder with 2038R EA 55” Wicked Root Rake Grapple - YouTube

Homestead Joe Logging with 2038R EA 55” Wicked Root Rake Grapple - YouTube

HomesteadJoe 2038R Grapple Work - YouTube

Homestead Joe Logging with 2038R EA 55” Wicked Root Rake Grapple - YouTube

Installing WR Long 3rd Function Hydraulics on 2017 John Deere 2038R - YouTube

Let me know if you have any other questions. Best of luck on your new purchase!

Sincerely
 

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I have the 2032r, can't speak to you about the snowblower, but I can about the turf tires. I mow my 5 acres with the tractor. I used to do this with my 1026r, but I needed bigger for lifting and FEL projects, and because, well, it's bigger. :mocking: But because I am on the lawn so much I didn't want to chew it up with R4s, and I do a fair amount of snow removal with the FEL and box blade and the R3s are great for snow traction. Where they suck is if you get into fall/spring sticky muddy environments, because as soon as those lugs fill with mud, you have slicks. If I were to do this all again I would go with the Radial Turf tires. As someone else mentioned, they appear to be a hybrid. Smaller blocks than the R4, more space between lugs than the R3s, and of course, more money.

All that said, out at the hundred acre woods, 3 series all the way! :greentractorride:
 
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And by the way, Horse Power does make a difference on PTO-driven implements like a snow blower. Heavy wet snow takes a lot more power to move than light fluffy powder... Don't let anyone tell you any different.
It does make a difference...but...well, read on.

Blowing snow with 2032R and SB1164 Snowblower - YouTube

In this vid I'm blowing just about the wettest heaviest snow you can have (late March, very warm temps, this is stuff is dense as @#[email protected]). I'm strong (bro I even lift) and I can barely lift a big shovel-full of of this stuff. Look at what it looks like coming out of the chute...it's like a thick clumpy mess. Joe is absolutely right, this takes a LOT more power to move than light fluffy January snow.

At one point in the vid I reach a drift that puts the snow over the top of the blower. I'm using a larger blower than Joe is (64" rear) which takes more power to run because it's taller and wider and processes more snow at once. This spot maxes out the HP of the tractor. I cannot go faster (I tried, nothing happened). This was actually more true on the first pass where I cut through the full drift, but I didn't film that part, so all you see is the second pass. So at maximum speed, maxing out the HP of the 2032R with a 64" blower, I am still pushing a lot of snow past the sides and some over the top, as the video shows. This means I am going too fast!

More HP would mean I could go even faster. But...that would make it worse! I'd need an extra pass to clean out the extra snow I'd be pushing over the side, which would mean it would take substantially longer to clear the driveway, which is the opposite of what HP is supposed to do.

So yeah, HP always makes a difference. But it's not always a worthwhile difference. Sometimes it is. In fact, it often is. But putting more HP into a tractor doesn't always increase it's capability in any significant way. HP is just one part of a very complex mix of factors when it comes to tractor performance.

So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

In this vid, Neil Messick, owner of a large Kubota dealership and a guy who runs a great tractor channel on Youtube says, "that difference say between the 25 horse and the 39 horse...'cause you haven't made a significant change to the size of your chassis...may not feel like as much in operation as you may expect." And then goes on to say, don't take a small step (when upgrading), because "a change in 10-20% in the specifications of your tractor is probably not going to be noticeable."

That said, I'd still get the extra HP if I wasn't planning on keeping the tractor past the warranty. Because, Joe is right. It makes a difference. And while that difference is all too often insignificant and unnoticeable, so is the difference in cost between the 32 and the 38.
 
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In that video it looked like the snow blower parking stand was still down when you hopped on the tractor and started blowing snow.

What RPM were you at in that video?
It was down. I used to put it up but then I tested it and didn't come near the ground when running, so I stopped bothering. Skipping that little step makes using the blower that much more convenient.

That was at WOT. Like I said, that heavy clumpy snow maxed out the power of the tractor at the point at which it was at the top of the blower.
 
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Thanks - this is great information! I'll use the quotes you provided when I go back to talk to the dealership. I should point out that they said "we will load the tires if you want, but we don't recommend it on the compact tractors". I think it's wise to have them loaded and was totally surprised when they said they didn't recommend it. From a functional perspective, I won't have the backhoe on all the time, and carrying a ballast box around eliminates the use of the 3 point hitch for dragging logs, etc.
About the thing with filled tires...

At a recent JD dealer training (they go to this once or twice a year), they had a thing where they pulled a weight with a tractor unballasted, then with filled tires and wheel weights. They measured the difference in wheel slippage (traction). I don't remember the exact target, but they had a target percentage of how much the ballast reduced wheel slippage/spin. The idea being that if the slippage was less than X% different, then there wasn't enough ballast and they had to add weight. But if it was more than X% different, then there was too much ballast and that would put too much strain on the drive-train and possibly cause damage.

So maybe that's why your dealer doesn't recommend filling tires on small tractors? Maybe because with rear ballast it's too easy to overcome that threshold with the smaller, less robust transmissions and axles?

Also, filled tires are good for traction in pulling jobs, but while it will help keep the rear wheels on the ground during loader work, it won't take much if any weight off the front axle, because it's "unsprung" weight and it isn't behind the tractor acting as a counter-balance.

You can simulate this with a toy tractor and two scales. You put the front wheels of the tractor on one scale and the back wheels on another, and you add a weight to loader. You will see that the weight reading on the front scale goes up, and the back scale goes down. You then use washers as weights and see where you can put them to make the front scale reading go down. This was another thing they did at JD training that my dealer told me about.

Man, I'd love to go to this training! Sounds like a blast.
 
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