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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to put a block heater in my 330 today. In the process of draining that I decided to pull the alternator and check it out. Seems to be bad to me. It spins hard and kind of clunks like it has detents in it. Should it spin smoothly and easily? New ones online are about 50-60 bucks. Not sure if it was normal or not for it to act this way.
 
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I decided to put a block heater in my 330 today. In the process of draining that I decided to pull the alternator and check it out. Seems to be bad to me. It spins hard and kind of clunks like it has detents in it. Should it spin smoothly and easily? New ones online are about 50-60 bucks. Not sure if it was normal or not for it to act this way.
Generally no. It should be smooth. Sounds like a bearing or bushing **** the bed. :gizmo:
 

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Sounds from what you describe are the bearings are shot in it. Do you have a Alternator/Starter Shop near you that could give you a price on a rebuild and testing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's a few shops around. Might have to give them a call sometime. I kind of had a feeling it was having problems as it never seemed to charge.
 
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There's a few shops around. Might have to give them a call sometime. I kind of had a feeling it was having problems as it never seemed to charge.
Is the battery light on the dash lit? As I understand it the light comes on if the alternator output is low either on the voltage or current as detected by the regulator.

I recently had an issue with the battery not getting charged and it turned out to be a bad glow plug controller never shutting off the voltage to the glow plugs like it should have.

The alternator should be smooth as already stated. I got a replacement a couple years ago through DB Electrical.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Is the battery light on the dash lit? As I understand it the light comes on if the alternator output is low either on the voltage or current as detected by the regulator.

I recently had an issue with the battery not getting charged and it turned out to be a bad glow plug controller never shutting off the voltage to the glow plugs like it should have.

The alternator should be smooth as already stated. I got a replacement a couple years ago through DB Electrical.
I don't beleive it even works. Trying the light test in the tech manual everything else works but that one. I never bothered with it since it didn't really need the electrical until next spring.
 

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I don't beleive it even works. Trying the light test in the tech manual everything else works but that one. I never bothered with it since it didn't really need the electrical until next spring.
I would do the voltage checks on the regulator that are in the tech manual too. You can see if there is voltage going to the indicator light from the regulator which is supposed to indicate poor alternator voltage and/or current.

Disclaimer on that indicator light voltage......I picked up a low cost ($24) aftermarket regulator from DB Electrical while trying to figure out the glow plug module issue. I think it is cornfused regarding the indicator light voltage though. It sends voltage to the indicator light when the battery stops charging and the alternator current draw drops from 25A to about 18A. If I turn on the headlights then the indicator light goes out as the current draw moves up just above 20A. Kind of annoying to have the indicator light on even though all the charging voltages are within spec of the tech manual. I am guessing the $$$ Deere regulator wouldn't do this but I am not annoyed enough to drop the $125 for that regulator.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
So, some of you might know from the what have you done to your tractor section in this category that I have been adding a loader to my 330 diesel. I have the back brackets and middle mounts attached but have had some problems coming up with a way to attach the front supports from the towers. My grandpap says to bolt a piece of steel to the attachment mounts and bring a bolt with some washers out to space the braces away from the side panels (loader was on a 110 square fender BTW so it isn't really designed with covers in mind and they rub). Don't want to do any welding or cutting on the towers so moving the braces would be kinda out of the question unless we had a professional do it. Anyone have a good design or tips? TIA.
 

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Run without side panels.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I guess I could do that, especially just for the winter. And I'll just figure out something over the winter for the summer.
 

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My 420 side panels barely snake out. If I had to remove the loader to change the oil or plugs I’d be ditching that tractor fast.

Your only redesign options require cutting and welding.
 
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