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Hi all - I had just ordered a new fan belt thinking mine would fall off soon and it did last night. Just got back from picking up the new belt and now I see that it looks like a major pain to get it over both pulleys - Any instructional videos out there? I can not find any. JD wants $55 for a technical operators manual. Thanks !
 

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Remove spark plugs ( so engine rotates easily)

Remove three bolts holding driver shaft to flywheel, they go though the lower pulley.

Bottom pulley is split (two piece) . Remove 3 nuts holding pulley outer 1/2 to flywheel. There should be a shim between the pulley halves. This shim might not be there, you remove it to tighten the tension of a used belt. If missing you need one for a new belt.

Install belt. Loosely install nuts. Turn engine as you tight the 3 nuts to center the belt. Tighten to 130 lb inch

Install drive shaft tight the 3 bolts to 15 lb ft.

Install spark p[lugs tighten to 18 lb ft

How many hours did your first belt last???
 

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The instructions are correct - and per the service manual. Getting the driveshaft bolts out is pretty easy - just need to figure a way to prevent driveshaft rotation while loosening (and subsequently tightening) the bolts. But, getting the nuts off the pulley and removing the sheave is a major pain!! The driveshaft end (rubber isolator) is right in the way! No easy way to access the nuts.

Then you have to slide the belt around the fan blades - which is a tight squeeze to the radiator. Reassembly is the reverse of the removal. You would have thought JD would have made this a bit easier. They must not like doing the job either.

But, mine is now on and I'm good to go.
 

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This process is similar on many of the models of tractor in the 4xx, 5xx, x4xx, x5xx, x7xx series, with some slight variations. The good news is my first belt lasted about 1,800 hours........so the replacement should carry it as long as I own it........

Nice job on the instructions and the diagram, ZebraFive.......That is helpful.

With the mower deck off, the access to the bolts for the rubber cushioning block is easier on many of the tractors. Also, while you are down there, check to make sure your driveshaft Universal Joints have been greased. Some have grease zirks. some don't. If they have grease fittings, grease them and then carefully wipe away any excess which pushes out as the driveshaft will fling any gobs of grease probably where you don't want it or need it.

The driveshafts in these hydrostatic tractors spins whenever the engine is running, whether the tractor is moving or not as the driveshaft operates the hydro pump on the transaxle. So make sure to keep the driveshaft maintained and to set the alternator belt tension correctly so as to not damage the alternator bearings or the water pump. If you are replacing the alternator, you should probably replace the belt while you are in there as often when the alternators begin to fail, they drag on belts causing premature wear on the drive belt.

Don't over tighten the alternator as it will wear it out prematurely and Deere is pretty proud of their alternators. In the event your tractor needs an alternator, check with sources including Amazon. I bought my 2nd replacement alternator from Amazon and it was significantly less expensive and the alternator was identical to the OEM unit, right down to the casting numbers. Here are the two in a photo, the old OEM and new Amazon after market Alternator (I think the Deere unit was $348 and the Amazon was $47....) The Amazon alternator has been running now for about 300 hours or more without any issues.

 

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