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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my 2320 had a hydraulic leak around the rear axle seal, I pulled it apart and while cleaning off the old gasket noticed a part with cracks and chunks of metal missing. I have found the part which is a bearing housing (part number lvu800564) which is only $47 but I’m afraid is beyond my ability to replace. Can anyone tell me what all this job would entail? My next option is someone has the whole used left rear axle assembly, used but in good shape for $340 shipped which would be a plug and play type deal only requiring me to put the gasket on and bolt it down. I’m going to attempt to add pictures and thanks in advance for any help.
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from the tech manual. assuming you want to remove D. doesn't look like much of a job as you have it almost there. if you need more let me know.


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You may need a bearing puller and a press to disassemble and reassemble the housing. Otherwise it doesn't look very intimidating from here.
 

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Your new bearings could be installed after heating them in a crockpot filled with the same oil that goes in the transmission until it hits 250 degrees. Bearing will drop right in place. Just don’t take the crockpot back in the house. Unless the assembly service procedure calls for something different. You were able to get it this far apart. Proceed with confidence
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies everyone, I’m gonna order the parts and give it a shot. I have access to a puller but will have to try the heat trick to get them back on. Considering I’ve never done this before, could anyone please confirm if I’m correct on the parts I will need. I’m thinking 1 2 3 4 8 9 and 22 from this diagram.
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So why did the flange break? Seems like it would be hard to break that area unless something struck the axle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So why did the flange break? Seems like it would be hard to break that area unless something struck the axle?
That’s a good question, I bought the tractor used around 2 years ago with 700 hours on it. It recently started dripping hydraulic fluid from around the rear seal and when I opened it up that’s what I found unfortunately.
 

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Your new bearings could be installed after heating them in a crockpot filled with the same oil that goes in the transmission until it hits 250 degrees. Bearing will drop right in place. Just don’t take the crockpot back in the house. Unless the assembly service procedure calls for something different. You were able to get it this far apart. Proceed with confidence
I think you mean heat the bearing flange, not the bearing.
 

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I think you mean heat the bearing flange, not the bearing.
I haven’t done any repairs on an axle like this but usually the inner race on a bearing like these will have to be pressed on or heated to be installed on a shaft. I mentioned the heating method because most people don’t have a press in their garage. The hot oil method works well because it’s an even heat. It can be done with a small torch but I don’t really recommend that because it’s hard to get the heat even. I have done the torch method on the back of my service truck in the field Temp gun in one hand torch in the other. I m spoiled in the shop because we have an electric induction bearing heater. The flange should be tight but I don’t think it would have to be heated to install. I could be wrong though
 

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Coaltrain I agree 100% the service manual would be a plus. I guess I’m used to just figuring it out because the company I work for doesn’t have service manuals for the products we manufacture and rent/sell. Unfortunately I am OEM Deere engine only with Service Advisor so I don’t have access to tractor service manuals. $153 seems ridiculous for the manual but the information would be invaluable. Price out a Cat manual for comparison some time. Deere’s are cheap
 

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Coaltrain I agree 100% the service manual would be a plus. I guess I’m used to just figuring it out because the company I work for doesn’t have service manuals for the products we manufacture and rent/sell. Unfortunately I am OEM Deere engine only with Service Advisor so I don’t have access to tractor service manuals. $153 seems ridiculous for the manual but the information would be invaluable. Price out a Cat manual for comparison some time. Deere’s are cheap
X758 I agree. In my previous comment I was thinking about getting the bearing into the housing.

To the OP, inspect those gears as it looks like you have some tooth damage.
 

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Coaltrain I agree 100% the service manual would be a plus. I guess I’m used to just figuring it out because the company I work for doesn’t have service manuals for the products we manufacture and rent/sell. Unfortunately I am OEM Deere engine only with Service Advisor so I don’t have access to tractor service manuals. $153 seems ridiculous for the manual but the information would be invaluable. Price out a Cat manual for comparison some time. Deere’s are cheap
My tractor is of the same vintage (2520) as the 2320 here. The service manual used to be $85 for the CD and $150 for the book. Now it’s $448 for either one - huh?

I am so glad I got one years ago. But even so I find that manual invaluable even for little things. And to help satisfy my need to know about things the theory of operation for various components is really neat.
 

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Good catch Dirtdobber. I hadn’t blown the pic up before. Definitely looks like there’s gear damage. Also looks like someone has been there before. The shaft in the last picture looks like it has hammer tracks in the center
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wonder if this is going to end up being my best option, I made the guy an offer and he accepted $340 shipped. As I said it’s used but from what I can tell everything is in good shape. I appreciate all of the input
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One thing I suggest is to disassemble the unit when you get it and replace the axle seal, since you are this close. Also, rotate each bearing by hand and feel for any rough spots or slop. Inspect the gears. Hopefully everything is fine but you may as well check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just to bring some closure to this thread, I ended up buying the used part for $340. It arrived and was in good shape. I got it put on my tractor, cleaned the suction screen while I had the rear tire off and was waiting the 24 hours for the gasket to dry, then added a new hydraulic filter and fluid and all is well again. Thanks for all of the input everyone who responded.
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