[Gcfisher75]

Just talked my dad into a new to him 4720 (700hrs) he has a new holland tc33 that this will replace and it took some doing to get him to go green...

We drove over 6 hours yesterday to get it, (got what I feel is a good deal) drove it there and tested it out, loaded everything up, paid the man and drove 6 hours back home...

Upon unloading at home and playing a little with it there it seems as if the transmission is not acting correctly... low range or "A" seems ok, no problem spinning.. however "B" range sometimes will bog the engine down, and others not so much, I think we got a high speed of 4mph out of "B" range forward and a little faster in reverse. Sometimes when going into a pile we could depress the forward pedal all the way and tractor would barely change tone.

"C" range is worse then "B" with more "slippage" if that's what u want to call it? It had a top speed of 8mph I believe and like 9.5 in reverse.*

It would do this with load match on or off, didn't seem to make a difference but im not exactly sure how load match acts normally because neither one of us have ever ran an e hydro, just mechanical ones... please help... I feel bad I talked him into this tractor and it's doing this. I think it's going to be something simple, I'm mechanically inclined and have a sense of some electronics, I'm thinking maybe it's a potentiometer? Can someone tell me how to test them and where they are? Could a dirty filter cause this? Thank you to all who respond!

 

[ddinham]

I would get that hydro fluid changed immediately. Even if it was acting ok, I would still change it so I know it is good. It could very well be the original.

Dave

 

[Jer]

I think I still have my service manual for mine, I think.....

I'll check for you tonight. It's for sale if I still have it.

-J.

 

[johnH123]

Remember, the pedal is a speed control, not a power control. (I think that's why they invented the throttle:knownothing::lol:

 

[Jer]

Remember, the pedal is a speed control, not a power control. (I think that's why they invented the throttle:knownothing::lol:

Unless you have auto-throttle.....

I hope his solution is that easy, but I doubt it.....

-J.

 

[Gcfisher75]

I would get that hydro fluid changed immediately. Even if it was acting ok, I would still change it so I know it is good. It could very well be the original.

Dave

I plan on doing a complete service on the tractor... May even have JD do it if i can't get this figured out..

 

[Gcfisher75]

I think I still have my service manual for mine, I think.....

I'll check for you tonight. It's for sale if I still have it.

-J.

I would be interested in it if you have it, why did you get rid of your tractor?

 

[Gcfisher75]

No I don't have throttle control, just load match, and right now with the way things are i can't tell a difference at all with that on or off.... Ive figured out through a post on another forum that my speeds are off... On level blacktop road, in "A" range, wide open throttle (just for consistency, no need to run the tractor wide open) and with pedal fully depressed im maxing out at 2.7mph according to the dash speedometer, In "B" range top speed is 4.4, and in "C" range it is 7.3... and in every range it is slightly faster in reverse I didn't write down "A" and "B" but in "C" range it'll do 10.9mph and the other 2 ranges are about 2mph faster then going forward... any ideas?

 

[Jer]

I moved up to a 5M series.

I'm going to check for you right now.

All of your ranges are slow. From what I remember A max should be about 4, B about 6.5, C about 15 or 16.

Sumpin' aint right, but don't fret, you'll love the eHydro once you get her going.

Have you called the person who sold you this unit?

-J.

 

[Jer]

You, my Pennsylvanian-in-$hit-from-your-old-man friend, are in luck. I have the tech manual in my hands.

Make me an offer. I can get it in the mail for you in the next couple days.

-J.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

After you make sure the brakes aren't dragging, I would check:

1) Fluid level
2) Air in system from a low level or partially plugged suction filter or mesh screen
3) Charge pump pressure out of adjustment
4) Directional relief valve for sticking
5) Potentiometers on the foot pedals and make sure they have full travel
6) and since loadmatch isn't working, the ground speed sensor.

You didn't mention any trouble codes, check the display for codes, those are very good at pointing to the subsystem with issues.

Tom

 

[arlen]

Is it possible that your brakes are sticking? If you shift into neutral, you should be able to freely move the machine by pushing. Also, if you set the parking brake firmly, put it in c range, , load match off ,throttle it up some, then try to move. It should go into relief in both forward and reverse, and emit a loud screech.
What year approximately is your machine?

 

[tractornewbie]

I think I still have my service manual for mine, I think.....

I'll check for you tonight. It's for sale if I still have it.

-J.

I'm interested if you have it. How much?

 

[4310]

No I don't have throttle control, just load match, and right now with the way things are i can't tell a difference at all with that on or off.... Ive figured out through a post on another forum that my speeds are off... On level blacktop road, in "A" range, wide open throttle (just for consistency, no need to run the tractor wide open) and with pedal fully depressed im maxing out at 2.7mph according to the dash speedometer, In "B" range top speed is 4.4, and in "C" range it is 7.3... and in every range it is slightly faster in reverse I didn't write down "A" and "B" but in "C" range it'll do 10.9mph and the other 2 ranges are about 2mph faster then going forward... any ideas?

Your tires are on backwards....ba da dum:lol:

I can't help much with your problem but I did go through something similar when I bought my used tractor over the internet and a with a few phone calls. Long story short, it was a lonely sickening feeling that saturday morning when my transmission kept slipping out of gear as I watched the delivery truck drive away. I feel your pain.

Honestly I would call the guy you bought it from and ask him what the problem is or if there has been any work done to it. Maybe ask him what dealer he bought it from and call them to see what work they did to it. At least you would get some idea where to start.

I wouldn't get mad (even though you may feel like ripping his heart out through his face). The deal is already done and it will be a great tractor when you get it figured out. If you can control your emotions you might even get the seller to agree on a discount if there is something legitimately wrong and he knew about it and feels guilty.

It's also possible (benefit of the doubt, alot of doubt) that he did not know that it was supposed to go faster than it does and assumed there was nothing wrong.

 

[MFreund1]

I would make sure the brakes are not stuck on by getting under the tractor and make sure the pedal is releasing the mechanism. Then I would turn off the load match and see if you get the same results.

When I got me 4310 the load match was foreign to me. I did not understand the need for it and still don't. I leave it off an use the power of the tractor and the stuff between my ears to run my tractor.

 

[MattF]

Oh, man... I really hope this isn't a big issue. I know this would keep me awake at night if this was me. Others have suggested exactly my thoughts.

Changing the fluids and filters is always a good practice but it'll run you about $300...

Below is a clip from my 4720 tech manual... it's very handy if you want to take something apart!

I think there are several good leads there. Some are very simple to remedy.

I hope this turns out to be an easy one... you'll love the machine when it's healthy!

Matt

 

[Gcfisher75]

Oh, man... I really hope this isn't a big issue. I know this would keep me awake at night if this was me. Others have suggested exactly my thoughts.

Changing the fluids and filters is always a good practice but it'll run you about $300...

Below is a clip from my 4720 tech manual... it's very handy if you want to take something apart!

View attachment 42676

I think there are several good leads there. Some are very simple to remedy.

I hope this turns out to be an easy one... you'll love the machine when it's healthy!

Matt

No chance of me seeing page 481 is there? Lol fluid level is ok, and the oil looks clean, I still am going to do filter changes when I get the chance...if the pump were going bad, I wouldn't have the speed differential between forward and reverse, right?

 

[Gcfisher75]

I would make sure the brakes are not stuck on by getting under the tractor and make sure the pedal is releasing the mechanism. Then I would turn off the load match and see if you get the same results.

When I got me 4310 the load match was foreign to me. I did not understand the need for it and still don't. I leave it off an use the power of the tractor and the stuff between my ears to run my tractor.

Brakes are working freely and don't seem to be the issue, load match on or off seems to make no noticeable difference with anything...

 

[SulleyBear]

Just curious,

Exactly what is "LOAD MATCH" and what is it designed to accomplish? I have seen it mentioned several times in this thread and I understand this is on a larger tractor than I normally putter with but curiosity is building......

Thanks in Advance for the answers.

 

[Jer]

It's a setting where the computer on the tractor will slow you down, rather than letting the engine big down, when you apply a load.

-J.


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