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The 5 ft tiller would be a heavy enough ballast but the problem is at full lift height the tines are gonna be about 3 inches off the ground. It will drag if you transition over any inclines or hit any bumps.
 

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Do you plan to do your own maintenance? Things like fluid and filter changes. If a major item comes up, what level of things will you tackle at home? If you plan to depend on the dealer, you will obviously need fewer tools, particularly specialty tools.

Make sure the dealer delivers the manuals for the tractor and mower along with the equipment. You can avoid asking questions that will get you "read the f** manual" responses. If you plan to do any major services you should consider buying the technical manuals for the tractor. I prefer having a printed manual myself, and bought my two volume set on ebay for about $50, but most is available to look at on line, and they are also available on DVDs.

You will be getting the new model of mower deck and mechanical lift mechanism introduced in 2020, so much of the setup and adjustment information already posted on GTT will not apply to your new equipment. Most of us have the old style. Since it is new, have the dealer demonstrate uninstall and re-install at delivery, and maybe even cut a swath of grass. It is new to dealer technicians too, so setup problems may happen. Make sure the height adjustment knob has complete range of movement. If not, make them set it up correctly right away.

Then sit back and let the GTT members help you spend your money.
 

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The 5 ft tiller would be a heavy enough ballast but the problem is at full lift height the tines are gonna be about 3 inches off the ground. It will drag if you transition over any inclines or hit any bumps.
Thanks. I was afraid of that. I'll go ahead and add the BB to the order. Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but figured this was a recent thread and the topic of BBs came up.
 
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Sorry if I didn't post the correct one. There are ones that work great - I have one.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Battery Powered Grease Gun....these machines have a lot of zirks and squeezing a trigger sure is easier than pumping a handle to produce the grease. Not only is it easier, its faster and eliminates any impediment to greasing often.......and if you do a lot of loader work, you should grease often.........

Main thing is try and select a brand of battery tools on which you can build off their platform. I would avoid any battery powered tools with "unique" batteries or chargers and stick with a well established brand that will support their products in the future. I like DeWalt and have a number of those.

Also, if you are shopping for battery tools, make sure to check out this source as they run some really good sales and specials which offer free batteries, free stand alone tools with the purchase of a tool with batteries and charger, etc.

 

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You had asked about fueling solutions: "Fueling The Safe and Easy Way" This is what I did as well, thanks @SulleyBear
Not sure if you've got an Amex Platinum card, but they are running a promotion for ordering online at Home Depot - spend $50, get $50 in statement credits 2 times, before June 30th. I used this promotion to get 4 of the VP 5+ gallon containers (placed two orders 5 minutes apart) for 2 each, at $29.xx. Basically for about $20, got 4 of these fuel cans that now supplement my 3 PIA cans and the pump in the above linked thread works on both types of cans.

Also search diesel fuel treatment - another horse that has been beaten to beyond death, but it's recommended to always treat your diesel fuel, regardless of temp.

Edit: If you do have the Amex card, be sure to add the promotion to the card before purchasing.
 
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I have a 5' CountryLine tiller. The weight of it is 638 lb. So I would think that would be enough ballast with my 1025R / 120R, even with no wheel weights or liquid, yes?

I'm going down to sign the paperwork today and wasn't sure if I should add the BB or not. Since I don't have the 1025R yet, I'm not sure if the 5' tiller will be too large or bulky on the 1025R? I don't plan to use the tiller on the 1025R. I use it on my Ford 1700.
The weight is probably okay. Personally, I like the ballast box for loader work so that I’m not potentially whacking expensive equipment on anything if I take a turn wrong when operating in close corners. You could also go the heavy hitch + suitcase weights route, that hangs out even less than a ballast box.
If you think loader work will be periodic or minimal and there’s low risk for damage to you rear attachment, go for it. Personally, I only like to mount up attachments I’m gonna g to use to avoid any unintentional damage. The titan ballast box is mounted to my quick hitch probably about 40% of my tractor usage.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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r
Personally, I only like to mount up attachments I’m going to use to avoid any unintentional damage.
Couldn't agree more. When you are busy operating the loader and following all of the safe operating practices, the last thing you want to worry about is a PTO driven implement being carried strictly as ballast, making contact with a fixed object.

Not only can it damage the implement, but the rear case on these machines is aluminum and if the connected PTO shaft is pushed towards the rear of the tractor by such an impact, its possible to cause very significant damage to the rear hydro unit and PTO drive assembly. If I recall correctly, the repair on a 1 series for replacing the entire rear case which was fractured in the impact was more than 50% of the cost of the tractor new, at around $8,900

I use a rear 3ph carry all platform for my ballast weight, as well as carrying all of the necessary items and tools often needed on projects. Last fall, I did back into something with the rear carry all and it broke a board off the base of the unit in the impact. That's easy to replace the board and no rear case impact.

Despite rear cameras and being safe, eventually, you are going to strike something with the rear ballast, whether its a tree or who knows what. Minimize potential damage and also protect the expensive implements from such possible damage. My rule of thumb is if I am going to carry an implement, its because the implement is in use when its on the machine.
 

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r


Couldn't agree more. When you are busy operating the loader and following all of the safe operating practices, the last thing you want to worry about is a PTO driven implement being carried strictly as ballast, making contact with a fixed object.

Not only can it damage the implement, but the rear case on these machines is aluminum and if the connected PTO shaft is pushed towards the rear of the tractor by such an impact, its possible to cause very significant damage to the rear hydro unit and PTO drive assembly. If I recall correctly, the repair on a 1 series for replacing the entire rear case which was fractured in the impact was more than 50% of the cost of the tractor new, at around $8,900

I use a rear 3ph carry all platform for my ballast weight, as well as carrying all of the necessary items and tools often needed on projects. Last fall, I did back into something with the rear carry all and it broke a board off the base of the unit in the impact. That's easy to replace the board and no rear case impact.

Despite rear cameras and being safe, eventually, you are going to strike something with the rear ballast, whether its a tree or who knows what. Minimize potential damage and also protect the expensive implements from such possible damage. My rule of thumb is if I am going to carry an implement, its because the implement is in use when its on the machine.
LOL.......i cant decide if i am agreeing or disagreeing......i figure for the $ i can put something like a box blade or carryall on the back for ballast and rear protection in case i happen to not be looking back ........i guess the backhoe guys are really screwed if they hit something backing up.....i just dont see expending the $s for just dead ballast weight hung on the rear .......just my opinion.........like i said i can figure out if im agreeing or disagreeing .... 🤣 🚜

im laughing because it allways seems i am always the dissenting opinion on things
 

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...i guess the backhoe guys are really screwed if they hit something backing up.....i just dont see expending the $s for just dead ballast weight hung on the rear
lol, yeah, I have the 260b and it’s off the machine when I’m not using it. I bought the bxpanded cart so it’s easy to ’Tetris’ around the shed. I have backed into trees with it when operating the loader in the woods, it’s easy toforget it’s there when you’re focused on loader work. I got lucky with my ballast box, the titan was $189 with free shipping on Amazon. I haven’t seen it there for that price since about 2 years ago though. man, the UPS guy was not impressed with me that day :)
 

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lol, yeah, I have the 260b and it’s off the machine when I’m not using it. I bought the bxpanded cart so it’s easy to ’Tetris’ around the shed. I have backed into trees with it when operating the loader in the woods, it’s easy toforget it’s there when you’re focused on loader work. I got lucky with my ballast box, the titan was $189 with free shipping on Amazon. I haven’t seen it there for that price since about 2 years ago though. man, the UPS guy was not impressed with me that day :)
a low cost ballast box does make sense to me as you can attach tool holders on it...fill the bottom with free ballast and the top with tools n chains and cover it...as opposed to just paying for steel weights and a holder
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Assuming close to equal weight, a ballast box puts weight a bit farther back than a suitcase weight rack. Farther back means more weight off the front axle.
 

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Battery Powered Grease Gun....these machines have a lot of zirks and squeezing a trigger sure is easier than pumping a handle to produce the grease. Not only is it easier, its faster and eliminates any impediment to greasing often.......and if you do a lot of loader work, you should grease often.........

Main thing is try and select a brand of battery tools on which you can build off their platform. I would avoid any battery powered tools with "unique" batteries or chargers and stick with a well established brand that will support their products in the future. I like DeWalt and have a number of those.

Also, if you are shopping for battery tools, make sure to check out this source as they run some really good sales and specials which offer free batteries, free stand alone tools with the purchase of a tool with batteries and charger, etc.

Lube shuttle grease gun -- you will thank me later.

rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Lube shuttle and lock n lube ordered.
thank you!

tractor should be ready for pick up tomorrow. Then the fun begins...
 

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I have owned my 1025r for a couple months now and this is what I would suggest.

I bought the spinner knob for the steering wheel. That thing is GREAT. It doesn't seem like it would make as much of a difference as it does, but it really does.

I bought some bolt on hooks for the fel but i haven't installed them yet. I know these will come in handy. I want to add a hitch receiver to the bucket as well but don't think i want to put it on the top like most do, and dont want to mount it in the bucket and have that problem. I found one that bolts into the bucket and can be removed. I think im going to go that way.

FORKS. this should be at the top of the list. I really didn't think i would use them much but ohhhhh man i use them the most.

Side mirrors. These are on my to get list. I found some on facebook for around 60 bucks that are magnet mounted on the side of the FEL posts. I like that idea and really just need to place the order. Seeing behind you on these tractors seem like they would be easy, but if youre a big guy like myself, or older its not as easy to spin around and see.

Diesel can. Get yourself a nice one. skip the junk safety cans. You already saw the thread about this. Don't buy the junk ones that I bought unless you and your wife and everyone you are around for the next 36 hours likes the smell of diesel.

tooth bar. This is something i really want and will need soon.

Ballast weight... i dont have any yet. but if i were you, get it with the tractor and be done with it.

box blade is something i want and if i did it all over again id just get it at the start and roll it into the financing.

did i mention forks? Get forks. you wont regret that decision.
 

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Howdy!

I just signed the papers on a new 1025R, mechanical mower lift + 120R FEL, Box blade, 60D autoconnect mower w/ autoconnect PTO and load n go, fixed 42” forks, what do I need now?

I understand the major attachments depend on how I intend to use the tractor, but what accessories, tools, supplies, etc should I also get?

I’ve ordered or bought or have:
  • descent basic tools
  • angled pliers
  • 250 ft-lb torque wrench
  • front & back tow hooks
  • 6” step
  • left & right FEL mounted handles
  • diff lock pedal
  • chain hooks for FEL bucket
  • 50 hour filter + fluids
  • rhinohide canopy
  • lock’n’lube
  • lube shuttle + MOS grease
  • diesel gas cans

what else should a new tractor owner look at or be sure to get?

Thank you!
Just mho and partly depends if you will do any running on the road to do a job for a neighbor. ... Mirrors .....
Howdy!

I just signed the papers on a new 1025R, mechanical mower lift + 120R FEL, Box blade, 60D autoconnect mower w/ autoconnect PTO and load n go, fixed 42” forks, what do I need now?

I understand the major attachments depend on how I intend to use the tractor, but what accessories, tools, supplies, etc should I also get?

I’ve ordered or bought or have:
  • descent basic tools
  • angled pliers
  • 250 ft-lb torque wrench
  • front & back tow hooks
  • 6” step
  • left & right FEL mounted handles
  • diff lock pedal
  • chain hooks for FEL bucket
  • 50 hour filter + fluids
  • rhinohide canopy
  • lock’n’lube
  • lube shuttle + MOS grease
  • diesel gas cans

what else should a new tractor owner look at or be sure to get?

Thank you!
 
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