New 1025R, what do I need now?
Howdy!
I just signed the papers on a new 1025R, mechanical mower lift + 120R FEL, Box blade, 60D autoconnect mower w/ autoconnect PTO and load n go, fixed 42” forks, what do I need now?
I understand the major attachments depend on how I intend to use the tractor, but what accessories, tools, supplies, etc should I also get?
I’ve ordered or bought or have:
what else should a new tractor owner look at or be sure to get?
Thank you!
I just signed the papers on a new 1025R, mechanical mower lift + 120R FEL, Box blade, 60D autoconnect mower w/ autoconnect PTO and load n go, fixed 42” forks, what do I need now?
I understand the major attachments depend on how I intend to use the tractor, but what accessories, tools, supplies, etc should I also get?
I’ve ordered or bought or have:
- descent basic tools
- angled pliers
- 250 ft-lb torque wrench
- front & back tow hooks
- 6” step
- left & right FEL mounted handles
- diff lock pedal
- chain hooks for FEL bucket
- 50 hour filter + fluids
- rhinohide canopy
- lock’n’lube
- lube shuttle + MOS grease
- diesel gas cans
what else should a new tractor owner look at or be sure to get?
Thank you!
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I did the same thing. I'm a new 1025R and don't really understand spending a ton on suitcase weights if can just leave a box blade or backhoe on?
I love the backhoe attachment- tree stump removal, hard dirt areas that need to break up before leveling, etc
I ended up getting the ballast box after all since the tiller would be very low to the ground given the limited cat 1 hitch. @ 5' wide, I can also see it being in the way in tight spots. Backhoe would definitely give you enough weight, but box blades are pretty light, maybe 250 - 300 lbs or so I would think.
It depends on how agile you want the tractor to be, as someone said. I use my FEL a lot for moving dirt. I'm on my 15th delivered dump truck load so far, plus all the on-property digging and moving. Going along fence lines and into fence corners a wide load on the back as ballast can do some fence and gate damage if you lose attention of the "tail" behind you. The narrower and more compact the ballast the better.
No, you don't NEED a ballast box or suitcase weights. Much of the time a heavy implement on back will work. But there are times when you'll be compromised in doing the task you NEED to do.
No, you don't NEED a ballast box or suitcase weights. Much of the time a heavy implement on back will work. But there are times when you'll be compromised in doing the task you NEED to do.
wheel weights make tire changes much harder. not a must have if you have your ballast situation figured out. while the box blade is ok, its also really wide and could make for some clearance problems in tight spaces. There is no way I could be doing some of the work I'm doing with a big blade on the back. Even with the HH you have to be careful. I"m happy with HH weight bar + suitcase weights. not as cheap as a ballast box but more compact and easy to adjust ballast or take it off. I don't find manually unloading it much of a big deal, but then again I haven't had it off in months.
I'd consider 1.5" rear wheel spacers from non JD vendors. can make for a more stable machine on hills. if you go with wheel weights you'll not be a happy camper trying to install spacers after the weights are on.
you didn't mention if snow removal is a concern or not. 48" snow blower + front PTO setup is really nice setup.
learn how to not put your machine on its side. lots of good YT content on safe operation and how even on "flat" ground a pot hole can put you over if the bucket is up with load in it.
I'd consider 1.5" rear wheel spacers from non JD vendors. can make for a more stable machine on hills. if you go with wheel weights you'll not be a happy camper trying to install spacers after the weights are on.
you didn't mention if snow removal is a concern or not. 48" snow blower + front PTO setup is really nice setup.
learn how to not put your machine on its side. lots of good YT content on safe operation and how even on "flat" ground a pot hole can put you over if the bucket is up with load in it.
If I could do it again, I would have rolled in about $1k worth of suitcase weights to the transaction/loan at 0%. $16.67/mo for 60mo is a lot better than what I'm currently doing as I now have a need for them. (They are more convenient than a BH for ballast, and I actually need them up front.) One additional positive, they usually can be discounted with the initial purchase and since they are highly sought after, they can actually add $ to the bottom line if you get them 15-20% off in the big purchase and end up selling them. (Note: There might be loan restrictions on selling them, before the lien is released. )
This is my opinion, with my hindsight being 20/20 in my situation.
This is my opinion, with my hindsight being 20/20 in my situation.
If you have light snow on pavement removal needs a poly edge for the bucket can do a clean job. RatchetRake is one of a bunch of makers.
Need to pull a garden wagon, low cost spreader, low cost aerator? A drawbar for the quickhitch is handy to hook up pin type hitches (ATV / garden tractor implements) and avoids damaging things on tight turns. Tractor Supply has one.
Need to do spraying? The mixes-on-exit by Chapin keeps the chemicals out of the water tank and can switch between wand and boom.
3Pt Carry-all. You can do a lot of things with a carry all frame. Tractor Supply and others.
Need to pull a garden wagon, low cost spreader, low cost aerator? A drawbar for the quickhitch is handy to hook up pin type hitches (ATV / garden tractor implements) and avoids damaging things on tight turns. Tractor Supply has one.
Need to do spraying? The mixes-on-exit by Chapin keeps the chemicals out of the water tank and can switch between wand and boom.
3Pt Carry-all. You can do a lot of things with a carry all frame. Tractor Supply and others.
Got it!
but then my luck held, got it home, went to unload and the ignition key wouldn’t turn. They had included the wrong keys in the bag with the owners manual. So it looks like a first for me, reading the owners manual before using...
They owe you a red key and an owner cap for that screw-up. 
Not the red key, need more experience on it before getting to use the red key... Ball cap, that's a given!
New news for me. I had the feeling they were universal keys. The key for my Scotts (Deere) lawn mower works in my 1025 and vice versa. I could be wrong but I think you could go to Lowes (or another Hardware store) and get a replacement there.
I think the 1 series uses the same key as the mowers and the 2-4 series uses a different key.
so you might not be down for the weekend?
I’m going to swap in the morning, dealership open until noon.
Got the new keys. Unloaded from the trailer! Whooop,
let the games begin!
Played with installing/uninstalling bucket, forks, box blade.
Installed iMatch. the included bushings are about 1/8” too long the fit on the box blade
Knocked out first two chores, scraped dirt off of driveway and moved some branches to the burn pile.
Ran my ROPS into a branch.
Too wet to try the mower... tomorrow...
Off to TSC for shorter bushings...
let the games begin!
Played with installing/uninstalling bucket, forks, box blade.
Installed iMatch. the included bushings are about 1/8” too long the fit on the box blade
Knocked out first two chores, scraped dirt off of driveway and moved some branches to the burn pile.
Ran my ROPS into a branch.
Too wet to try the mower... tomorrow...
Off to TSC for shorter bushings...
What you need with a new 1025R...increased credit limit on your card, more checks, or a wealthy family member that gave you a bunch of cash!
Is it just me or do most of the implements seem to be the $2500 to $3000 range??
Is it just me or do most of the implements seem to be the $2500 to $3000 range??
What is the website for Kenny?
Boltonhooks.com
What might a better fueling system than jugs look like? A 50 gallon drum and a pump?
41 - 60 of 79 Posts
