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Discussion Starter #1
All. My brother recently purchased a new 1025r with a 54 inch blower. I suggested he have a steel impeller installed as I have owned two of the blowers and both have had the steel impeller. I find that it greatly improves the implement.

The first blower he had constantly made loud noises and broke shear pins. He went through 10-12 before the dealership was able to come pick it up around the holidays. They found nothing wrong. He looked at my current blower on a 2032r and my old machine (1023e) that my father now owns and determined that the impeller was improperly installed and was grinding/hitting against the actual frame of the blower. The dealership was good; got it in to look at a couple days after and warranteed an entire new unit and impeller.

The new one is doing the same thing. He looked again at the impeller and it appears to be appropriately installed and isn't making contact anywhere on the blower frame. The dealership looked at it and put it into heavier snow and it performed fine. Back at his house it started popping pins again. They called Deere and relayed that the machine needs to be at idle when the PTO is engaged and not at full power.

All this to say that it is still breaking pins. I installed the impeller on my 1023e when I owned it; I am absolutely not a mechanic. My dad assisted who is very mechanically inclined but again not mechanics. Never had an issue. My 2032r had it installed from a different dealer I purchased it from and I have had zero issues. I even found my shear pin in the impeller to be loose when he started having problems and I examined mine.


For clarity the pin that keeps breaking is the pin/bolt on the shaft with the impeller. The auger pins have been fine.

Anyone experience something similar or have any insight on this?
 

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When the blower is off the tractor, can you rotate the driveshaft by hand freely and without any binding?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
When the blower is off the tractor, can you rotate the driveshaft by hand freely and without any binding?


Yes. No binding, sticking, etc. With the drive shaft and blower hooked up, and the selector for the pto on rear only, the whole assembly turns by hand with no issue as well.
 

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Yes. No binding, sticking, etc. With the drive shaft and blower hooked up, and the selector for the pto on rear only, the whole assembly turns by hand with no issue as well.
Just to confirm... the blower currently has the steel or plastic impeller?

Is the chain properly adjusted with no excessively loose or tight spots (thanks to JD's out of round sprockets)?

Does the impeller have excessive rotational play on the center shaft? The plastic impellers tended to have a bit more play due to the fitment of the large hex drive area but the steel impellers should have minimal rotational play.

Does it make any unusual noises when run at full PTO RPM? My 54" blower housing will wobble a little bit when it's lifted off the ground slightly and run at full PTO RPM but otherwise it runs very quiet.
 
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The blower has the steel impeller currently. The chain is adjusted appropriately. Nothing out of the ordinary while it’s operating. The impeller has slight rotational play; much less than my plastic one used to because of that stupid hex drive. I believe it is slightly noisier than my current machine when full out. My personal 54 wobbles when lifted to max height which I don’t do for obvious reasons. When his turns on it is smooth and nothing sounds out of order.
 

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Has anyone checked to be sure the correct bolts are being used?
 

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Would it be terrible to put in a solid bolt? My plastic impeller has one and I have never had any issues with atleast 100hrs on the blower alone. I do have shear bolts on the auger as they’d be the first to hit anything. I clear out my trailer parking stalls occasionally and have found a missed 6x6 or 4x4 chunk we use for wheel chalks. Breaks the auger bolts. I have a gravel drive and gravel path to the rear of my property that I Plow or blow. I’ve picked up and thrown some baseball sized rocks and have never had issues with the plastic impeller in any way.

Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
 

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DO NOT USE A SOLID BOLT Grade 8

You are asking for trouble,, maybe not this year or next year but it will happen and it will COST :gizmo::gizmo:you big time.

USE SHEAR Bolts// Grade 5
 

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Would it be terrible to put in a solid bolt? My plastic impeller has one and I have never had any issues with atleast 100hrs on the blower alone. I do have shear bolts on the auger as they’d be the first to hit anything. I clear out my trailer parking stalls occasionally and have found a missed 6x6 or 4x4 chunk we use for wheel chalks. Breaks the auger bolts. I have a gravel drive and gravel path to the rear of my property that I Plow or blow. I’ve picked up and thrown some baseball sized rocks and have never had issues with the plastic impeller in any way.

Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
I'm not sure what you mean? The factory shear bolts are Grade-5 solid bolts.

Part Number:
19H1914
Part Price: 0.48 USD Each
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Cap Screw - SCREW, HEX HEAD

Specification
Weight: 0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
Diameter0.250 IN
ThreadUNC2A
Length1.000 IN
Thread Length0.875 IN
Width Across Flats0.438 IN
Head Height0.163 IN
Material GradeA17D
FinishB

NOTE:
A17D Has the strength of SAE Grade 5

 

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Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
While I don't advocate using the incorrect shear bolts, the most fragile part of this entire snow blower is the front auger gear drive (and JD doesn't sell any parts for it). It's sole purpose is to drive the auger. If the auger shear bolts do not break upon impacting an obstacle, gear box damage is almost certain to result. The impeller on other hand, is driven directly by the chain and sprocket which in turn is driven by the drive shaft.

If the impeller (steel) were to impact an object and not break the shear bolt, the most likely result would be the highlighted part below would break or shear off its key. This shear adapter plate is constructed of fairly lightweight material and there have been reports of it splitting in half even under normal use. The second likely thing to happen if an obstruction occurs is the chain would break as dombougie suggested. If using the plastic impeller and hitting something solid they have a tendency to just fracture and round off the plastic hex portion on the front of the impeller which then allows it to spin freely.

Again, I'm not advocating using anything other than the factory Grade-5 bolt but clearly it can be seen that the auger shear bolts are much more critical than the shear bolt on the impeller.

 

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Not sure how to post photos with descriptions using my phone. I use the “chrome” bolt on my impeller with a locking nut, never had that break. On the auger ends I use the packaged gold bolts, Available pretty much everywhere. Those shear as they should and I keep half a dozen in the tool box.

Can’t say what the OPs issue is causing the breakage but I would go with something solid. You went with the steel impeller for a reason it will take the beating. My discharge chute may be missing some paint from puking rocks out but doubt I will have to replace the impeller or any other parts related.
 

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Not sure how to post photos with descriptions using my phone. I use the “chrome” bolt on my impeller with a locking nut, never had that break. On the auger ends I use the packaged gold bolts, Available pretty much everywhere. Those shear as they should and I keep half a dozen in the tool box.

Can’t say what the OPs issue is causing the breakage but I would go with something solid. You went with the steel impeller for a reason it will take the beating. My discharge chute may be missing some paint from puking rocks out but doubt I will have to replace the impeller or any other parts related.
As long as the bolt has the reduced size shaft divots in line with the inner shaft on the auger they will work just fine. That divot is where the bolt will shear every time.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Grade 8s were provided by the dealer as they ran out of the 5s and we had a lot of early snow this year. The first blower snapped those as well. I think they’re avoiding 8s on the new one and they’re getting big Deere involved but so far not much of a response.
 

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As long as the bolt has the reduced size shaft divots in line with the inner shaft on the auger they will work just fine. That divot is where the bolt will shear every time.
Quite frankly I am surprised that these shear pins even work on the 47" and 54" blower since the auger shear method is completely different than a typical walk-behind (which is what the pins were designed for).

On a typical walk behind the shear pins go through a hole in the two auger tubes. They fit tight enough that it prevents most of the play between the two tubes.

On the 47" and 54" blowers however, the shear bolts go through two plates on the end of the auger. These plates need to be tightened against each other which is why there is a bolt & nut there.

 

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Quite frankly I am surprised that these shear pins even work on the 47" and 54" blower since the auger shear method is completely different than a typical walk-behind (which is what the pins were designed for).

On a typical walk behind the shear pins go through a hole in the two auger tubes. They fit tight enough that it prevents most of the play between the two tubes.

On the 47" and 54" blowers however, the shear bolts go through two plates on the end of the auger. These plates need to be tightened against each other which is why there is a bolt & nut there.

Honda walk behinds bolt through an ear like that, not through the tube. I was surprised at this when I got my Honda last year but it makes it easy to line up the new shear bolt and there is nothing to punch out from the old one.

Thumper
 
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Grade 8s were provided by the dealer as they ran out of the 5s and we had a lot of early snow this year. The first blower snapped those as well. I think they’re avoiding 8s on the new one and they’re getting big Deere involved but so far not much of a response.
Grade 8 bolts will shear faster than 5s. Youd actually be better off with a 2 than a 5 in this case, but neither is good.
They are also much cheaper at the hardware store, as they are generally a standard bolt.

Quite frankly I am surprised that these shear pins even work on the 47" and 54" blower since the auger shear method is completely different than a typical walk-behind (which is what the pins were designed for).

On a typical walk behind the shear pins go through a hole in the two auger tubes. They fit tight enough that it prevents most of the play between the two tubes.

On the 47" and 54" blowers however, the shear bolts go through two plates on the end of the auger. These plates need to be tightened against each other which is why there is a bolt & nut there.
I wondered about those pins too.
Deeres own 49 snowthrower uses the same system shown in your picture (and the same bolt to, thats used from your previous post, 19H1914) . It works very well, and has since the 70s, as long as the bolts are properly installed. I had this issue when I first broke one after several years of use. I assumed because it had a lock nut that it didnt need to be tight, but they certainly do.
The 49 is a different beast as well, because its a thrower not a blower. The auger in it turns at over 900 rpm. If it can work as well as it does, there is no reason the same setup shouldnt work on a much slower turning auger.
Part of what keeps this system working as it should is the friction between the two plates when tightened together.
There should be NO play at all in this connection. Once I figured that out, I didnt shear another one for a few years until I picked up a chunk of cast iron from a water shut off cover.
The couple times I didnt tighten them I broke them within an hour or two, which sounds an awful lot like the OPs issue time wise, which is what got me thinking maybe his werent tight enough. Hopefully its something simple like that.
 

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Have a fairly new blower (just shy a year old) and now have about 6-7 hrs on it. My first indication that my drive chain needs tightening is that the shear bolts start popping suddenly and frequently.

If I go through two bolts in a storm, I haul the tractor back to the garage and check chain tension. I've had to adjust 3 times already due to the new chain stretching. Hopefully it's settled in now and I won't have to do this every 3rd or 4th storm.
:cheers:

EDIT:: Also, if you guys haven't played this game yet...check out Youtube Supercharging a Snowblower. Night and day difference!!1 Especially when the stuff gets thick and wet.
 
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......................... He looked again at the impeller and it appears to be appropriately installed and isn't making contact anywhere on the blower frame. The dealership looked at it and put it into heavier snow and it performed fine. Back at his house it started popping pins again. They called Deere and relayed that the machine needs to be at idle when the PTO is engaged and not at full power.

All this to say that it is still breaking pins. I installed the impeller on my 1023e when I owned it; I am absolutely not a mechanic. My dad assisted who is very mechanically inclined but again not mechanics. Never had an issue?.....................


Just curious... You're engaging the blower at idle... correct???


And for clarity, you are using 1/4 x 1 grade 5 BOLTS with nyloc nuts... not walk-behind snowblower shear PINS???
 
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