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Discussion Starter #1
New 1025R with loader, 60" Mower with mulch kit, 48" box blade and a ballast box

Starting my own thread to ask questions about my new purchase. Please have some patience as I am tractor stupid.....LOL (no really)

So I'm still at rookie status. Mowed once with the loader on and the box blade. I'd never own or driven a tractor before. I have a Craftsman GT-6000 garden tractor bought in 2003 and it shows. I did not want to spend three grand on the cheap made mowers these days. I mow over one acre that slopes all over the place. I was worried about traction in the bad areas but did great. Now I need to clean out my garage so I can take off my loader and mower and I have no level areas in my yard. I really need to get the loader off before I take something out. My second mow was today and not so iffy about everything. My confidence was a little strong and that made me get way to close to things like the back deck support posts and stairs. Not to mention the 800 feet of chain link fencing. However, I did take the box blade off for the second mow. No real chance of rolling in the backyard at all, mowing wise.

It left deeper cuts in the grass even on a slight down hill side. Is that normal? (I just tried a different method than what the salesman said) He told me to just have the roller wheels adjusted just below the decks edge. I dropped the deck to where I want to mow and then dropped each wheel and locked them into place. The rear wheels on the deck are one hole off from the fronts. Meaning the deck is slightly lower in the front than the back. From what I do know, that be right.

I don't have a manual for the deck, anyone have a link to the 60" 7 iron? (Serial # 1M0106DHEM043080) I'm not sure which on in the manual section is mine?????

It made some loud banging noises now and then on semi flat ground and I was just creeping along at a slow speed. Normal?? (today's mow did not do it, but only mowed very little)

Does it have to be perfectly level all around to take the loader off? I tried to put the loader down on the cement facing the garage, like I was going to drive into it. Bucket down on cement, somewhere around two inches off from left to right. Does not seem right???
Then I tried length wise to the garage door on the cement and it was better. But the cement is suppose to be slopped to keep rain from entering the garage. I guess I need to get the garage cleared so I can give it a try???

Another question, if and when I get the garage cleaned up, can I take the mower off in there? Seems to me it would move when trying to drive over it.
 

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Sounds like your sales guy didn't do the proper walk-through on your tractor. I got basically the same set-up (for summer at least - also have snow blade for winter)

When you remove the deck, you flip the 4 levers at the corner of the deck wheels before dropping the deck to the lowest position with the 3pt lever. This will unlock the wheels and allow the deck to sit on the ground and not move as you are backing off. Make sure you have your height adjust set to "INSTALL"

Flip the latch at the rear RH corner of the deck below the mower (disengages the rear) put the tractor in 4wd, low range and back off the deck.

It's really easy and I always have ONLY the implements I need at the time on the tractor. I mow with only the deck on the mower and it's incredible how maneuverable it is.

If you didn't get the iMatch for the 3pt - I highly recommend it (or a generic version which is compatible) Makes taking on/off 3-pt implements a breeze.
 

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Sounds like your sales guy didn't do the proper walk-through on your tractor. I got basically the same set-up (for summer at least - also have snow blade for winter)

When you remove the deck, you flip the 4 levers at the corner of the deck wheels before dropping the deck to the lowest position with the 3pt lever. This will unlock the wheels and allow the deck to sit on the ground and not move as you are backing off. Make sure you have your height adjust set to "INSTALL"

Flip the latch at the rear RH corner of the deck below the mower (disengages the rear) put the tractor in 4wd, low range and back off the deck.

It's really easy and I always have ONLY the implements I need at the time on the tractor. I mow with only the deck on the mower and it's incredible how maneuverable it is.

If you didn't get the iMatch for the 3pt - I highly recommend it (or a generic version which is compatible) Makes taking on/off 3-pt implements a breeze.

Yes, thank you, that makes since on the deck. And yes, I did get the Imatch hitch, forgot about that.
 

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I keep the boxblade in the rear of the yard outside (currently) and keep the loader/mower on the tractor all the time in the garage. I simply drop the implements I don't need in the driveway while I'm working and put them back on at the end of the day when it's time to put everything away.

I picked this tractor because of the ease of install/removal of the implements/accessories and I haven't been disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, my guess it would be easy. That's why I went with JD. But I don't have jack that is level. I'm about halfway clearing out the garage.

Does it have to be level to take off the loader?
 

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Yeah, my guess it would be easy. That's why I went with JD. But I don't have jack that is level. I'm about halfway clearing out the garage.

Does it have to be level to take off the loader?
Congrats on new toy,,oh tractor. Yes and no on being level. The bucket and parking stand should be at least straight across and somewhat level. But I remove my loader all the time and my ground slopes down . Is has a slight angle doing down into my shed plus the parking space is angled.
When you remove the bucket and it isn't sitting on solid ground on both sides , or if the parking stand isn't you will notice the fel will hang up on the fel arms while backing away.
Hope this helps.
 
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Congrats on the new machine. And I 2nd the thought that the salesman should have gone over all of this stuff with you. For what we pay for this equipment, a little once over at delivery should be a given.
I take my mower off on the concrete floor in the garage and have very little slippage. It is much better that the wood floor in the barn. I find that a level surface is more critical for the mower deck than the loader. Enjoy and have fun!


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Well, I got the loader off in the garage. Turns out the loader is a little tweaked. Never used, so it came that way. Didn't cause any issues, but then again, I have not tried to put her back on.

Mowed again, very nice. Turns great. Not sure if it's user error or the tractor, but it seems to pop out of gear. I put it in 4x4 low and dipped in to a ditch head first. Got as far as I wanted to go and hit the reverse and nothing, rolling forward. I played around and freaking some. Probably freaking was most of the cause as I did not want to go any further. After almost giving up, I found it was in neutral but it was working going forward, just not back???? Don't know, but it happen a couple of times later too.

And free of charge from the dealership, a small army of small red ants and their eggs coming out of the screw holes on the flooring. Was not happy as I was in shorts and flip-flops.

I don't have room to do the deck in the garage after taking the loader off. I will try it out somewhere flat outside. The salesman did show me that and he had a hard time at it too. Nothing level about my property.....LOL
 
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Congrats on the new machine and welcome to GTT!

As you know, it'll take some time getting used to everything, especially since this is your first machine of this caliber. I would recommend finding the most level spot in your yard and using that same spot every time (if level spots are limited) so you can get used to removing and re-installing vs. trying to fight the learning curve and added challenges due to the terrain. Is there an area of your yard where you could essentially build and implement installation "spot?" Perhaps you could level out an area and create enough space to safely negotiate implement changes and such...

Keep us posted on the tweaked loader issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Congrats on the new machine and welcome to GTT!

As you know, it'll take some time getting used to everything, especially since this is your first machine of this caliber. I would recommend finding the most level spot in your yard and using that same spot every time (if level spots are limited) so you can get used to removing and re-installing vs. trying to fight the learning curve and added challenges due to the terrain. Is there an area of your yard where you could essentially build and implement installation "spot?" Perhaps you could level out an area and create enough space to safely negotiate implement changes and such...

Keep us posted on the tweaked loader issue.

Yes, that's what I am going to have to do, building an area for that. I might just make a mini pole barn just for outdoor stuff and free up my garage again.
It's funny when you go look at the tractors sitting in their yard (outdoors) and not a single rust mark. Bring on home and let it set in the yard for a week, rust showing up in the chipped paint. Very little chips though.

I have found two problems so far. The box blade was put together after they install the pins for the teeth. One out of three cannot be adjusted because it blocked.
Second, light switch seems to have a short. I noticed it when I got it home, the front headlights where not on and the fender light where. Later that night I went out and try again. To get them to work, I have to wiggle the switch (knob).

Again, does anyone know if it's normal for the bucket assembly tweaked some from left to right?
And does your tractor pop out of gear sometimes? Or user error? Time will tell I guess.
 

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...Does it have to be perfectly level all around to take the loader off? I tried to put the loader down on the cement facing the garage, like I was going to drive into it. Bucket down on cement, somewhere around two inches off from left to right. Does not seem right???
Then I tried length wise to the garage door on the cement and it was better. But the cement is suppose to be slopped to keep rain from entering the garage. I guess I need to get the garage cleared so I can give it a try???
If one of your rear tires is low, the bucket won't be level. I learned this first-hand. I thought my loader was bent. The tires looked "even", but when I checked, one was nearly completely out of air. Found a thorn, patched it from the inside and the bucket was alot happier.

:good2:

Also, I've found that if the ground is not perfectly level, taking the loader off and putting it on, well, let's just say it's pretty forgiving.
 

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The loader has been known to be a little off. I've also heard of people trying a different angle and the concrete was more to blame than the loader. Just a thought. A nice long 2"x4" and a level will let you know how close the floor is to level.

Also "popping" out of gear is not normal. My shift lever bolt was loose so mine felt a little sloppy, but I don't think it has ever popped out of gear.

My light switch had to be replaced when I added the rear work light. My shop foreman said the switches were a little weak and JD has a replacment. Now mine is a 2012 1026R. I would have thought the "new" switch would be installed by now from the factory...

-636
 

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Second, light switch seems to have a short. I noticed it when I got it home, the front headlights where not on and the fender light where. Later that night I went out and try again. To get them to work, I have to wiggle the switch (knob).
If I recall, the 1xxx series had issues with the light switch and they had to be replaced.
 

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If I recall, the 1xxx series had issues with the light switch and they had to be replaced.
I'll have to look into that - the "touchy" switch is the only problem I've had thus far (need to jiggle to get the lights on that I want.) Just haven't had the time to take care of it and I rarely do things at night (winter will change that I'm sure.)
 
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There's no "recall" on the light switch, but there is a new one and replacement should be covered under warranty. It's easy to replace.:good2:
 

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There's no "recall" on the light switch, but there is a new one and replacement should be covered under warranty. It's easy to replace.:good2:
When did the replacement switch become available? Was it post April 2013? :)
 

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Well...I took delivery of mine in May 2014 and it still has the "bad" switch. Not sure when it was manufactured.
 
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