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New 2020 50hr service

1809 Views 6 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Ritz
Hi all,

By pure luck, I bought my 1025r new in early April 2020, just as the covid shut downs started and just before everything sold out. Over the next year I put 49 hours on it. Despite the new manual not recommending a full maintenance at 50 hours any longer I decided to do it anyway after talking to my son who is a diesel mechanic. As my son put it, the only thing I had to lose by doing the service was the cost of the materials. Great point. So I spent the $150 at the local JD dealer for the material and did the service.

This has all been a very long winded way of saying I am glad I did NOT follow the manual and that I DID do the service.

Here is a pic of the hydraulic fluid filer and the gunk that had accumulated in those first 50 hours.

Short story long, do a complete service with new fluids and filters after your first 50 hours despite what the manual says. You and your tractor will be glad you did.

787334
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It seems to me the 50 hour is maybe a little over kill but like others here have mentioned, it's new things are mating together and it's best to get that out. With that said, I did mine at 98hrs , and yes it had a little more debris on the magnet. Which would suggest it needed more time to break in.
The magnet is catching the crap on it and there is a filter. I can't see difference between 50 and 100hrs, but 200hrs feels way to long.
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thats not bad. should of seen mine @ 230 hrs. I suspect the lower screen filter may of never of been cleaned even if the fluids where.
guess I shoulda took a pic of my screen that had not been pulled for the first 165 hours.
The debris amounts vary for a variety of reasons, but small debris is to be expected when you have square cut gears being broken in. I can't recall the last time someone posted debris photos from an early service interval where there was a serious mechanical problem.

There was a time when the cases were being put together with excessive RTV sealant and there were pieces of sealant found in some early service events which were extreme, with one coming to mind where they pulled nearly a cup of extra sealant strips out of the case. I have also seen individual strips of sealant which were 8" long.

In reality, when the case is machined properly, it takes very little RTV to properly seal it. When a bead is put on the case half and then mated with the other side of the case, you are going to find that the amount actually needed is more like the size of tooth pick in diameter because the sealant spreads between the surfaces and the excess is pushed out of the mated surfaces. For some reason, the machines applying the RTV were set to lay a bead much larger than needed and this went on for some time. Also, its not unusual to find the RTV for the first few fluid changes as the case goes through its heat cycles and also vibration and movement. Usually, by the 3rd hydro change, the RTV issue was no longer providing the sealant scraps in the drained fluid.

When you are doing this service, make sure to look into the case sump with a flashlight and a small, telescoping hinged inspection mirror as sometimes, there will be RTV fragments which don't drain with the fluid and you will want to get any such debris out of the case sump which doesn't belong in there. Also, its a good idea to look around in there just to make yourself familiar with what's going on in the sump........
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Doesn't look bad to me. I cannot imagine that the the new factory recommended spec is harmful. It would be suicide to recommend that interval and then have bad outcomes to deal with under warranty.
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When you are doing this service, make sure to look into the case sump with a flashlight and a small, telescoping hinged inspection mirror as sometimes, there will be RTV fragments which don't drain with the fluid and you will want to get any such debris out of the case sump which doesn't belong in there. Also, its a good idea to look around in there just to make yourself familiar with what's going on in the sump........
I would think the metal screen around the suction tube in the sump ought to prevent chunks of RTV from getting back into the system once they wind up in the sump, no? For my other vehicles, I generally insert a small rare-earth magnet on a stick into the open drain hole and fish around for 5-10 secs to see if there are any "chunks" of ferrous metal down there too. For RTV, you kinda have to get a finger (or maybe forceps) in there to grab the chunks and pull them out. Clearly we need someone to make an aftermarket transparent aluminum sump. :)

Transparent aluminum actually exists
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