:wgtt:

A rear finish mower will work better than a MMM due to the fact you can back in and under more spots that the MMM just can't get into.

There is definitely a difference in rear blades. Look for a good heavy duty one with a brace welded into the back of the blade about mid-way up the face. I've seen a lot of pictures of blades turned into bananas just moving snow.

A must have for small tree removal is a tooth bar for your loader bucket. BXpanded makes a real nice unit called the piranha.

Good luck and have fun!

 

I would say, once you get to that size tractor, unless mowing is the primary duty, I'd get the rear mower.
Removing and installing attachments will soon get to be a PITA no matter how easy it is to do. The attachment you want to use will never be on the tractor.

BTW, Welcome to GTT.

 

X2..
But I'll say get a ZTR or other dedicated mower if you have a lot of grass to mow.

 

Get an iMatch and a rear finish mower. :wgtt:

 

everything that has been said so far about what to get with the 2032r, has happened to me since I bought my 2520 mcut in 2005. even if u only use that back hoe 2times a yr, it's sitting their waiting on the next project coming up. I vote for u getting it now, not like me and then a couple yrs later wishing I had gotten it then, and not only that the wife gave the go ahead sitting at the salemans desk, do it NOW, and also u have the choice of 0% interest too, didn't have that choice in 2005-nope, my interest rate then was 7%, and I think my warranty wasn't as good as their giving now either. also I would add the hydraulic quick connects in the rear, another project I would really use for my pull behind brush hog. definantly the I-match, once u use it a couple of times u will not be without it. makes life so much easier hooking attachments up-nice.:greentractorride:

also have a rear finish mower-why, because back then when I bought my tractor, the ride over MMM decks was in back order, I bought tractor in month of may, no mmm decks, so they loaned me a rfm to use, a frontier 6fter, I liked it for the reasons Tonton stated, and easy to get on and off with I-match, I have to say oh as a big person, sometimes it is a sun of a b#$% to get the driveshaft hooked to the pto shaft, and then one day reading a post on gtt about how u change the pto shifter from rear to front-bang u can turn the pto shaft and that helps a 100% hooking that up then.

now after having my 2520 and the ride over deck--2yrs ago I went and bought a x475, reason-1, keep the hrs down on 2520. 2--no more having to change everything around just to mow lawn grass today, then tomorrow take it all back off to hook brush hog up to tractor and then brushhog. see what I mean. boy now I would be living life really good cause I could leave my back hoe on all the time now, maybe not all the time, but hey a lot. I hope u luck no matter what u do for now.

 

Thank you all for the replies and warm welcome

Looks like a consensus on a rear mount mower so with that in mind would it be better to step to a 3033E with no mid mount option which should be cheaper and be able to install an extra rear remote that the 2032r doesn't offer.
I haven't compared the 2 models yet so not sure exactly the differences between the E and R series

 

... and be able to install an extra rear remote that the 2032r doesn't offer.

There is a factory option for a single remote as long as you don't have the Power Beyond option installed (but you would with the backhoe), but the aftermarket has this covered as well, Brian at Fitrite Hydraulics has a kit for them in any number of spools you'd need. Here is a thread on the evolution of it: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...draulics/6704-installing-rear-3-spool-selective-control-valve-valve-2720-a.html

 

I just caught up with this thread. Lot's of good advice here. Having had a 2720, same as the 2032R, 62D mower deck with hydraulic lift and 46BH, unless you're mechanically inclined, have a workshop with jacks & stands and are all tooled up you don't want to go that route.

The changeover between 62D deck and 46BH is a time consuming challenge. Although it would be much easier if you had the mechanical deck lift. I did it probably a half dozen times and it got to the point that I could changeover in about an hour and a half. Maybe an hour with the mechanical deck lift. Still too much trouble and a pretty good physical workout at that. Come to think of it, I have gained some weight since then. Maybe there were some benefits to that configuration after all..............:mocking:

If you need the TLB then fine. 2032R, H130 & 46BH. Go with a rear finish mower or a separate mowing rig.

 

I have the MMM, backhoe and hydraulic independent lift for my 2032R. I have a couple ztraks so I don't use the mmm that much unless I need to bag something or I'm running the mmm in combination with my slope mower, all problems that a rear mower won't solve. With a rear mower you'll still have the pain of removing the imatch and 3 point. really that is more work that removing the independent lift and I would say that the mmm and a rear mount probably go on in about the same time if you have the mmm setup right.

A good portion of the independent lift can stay on with the backhoe. I have pins and clips on everything that needs to come off so - remove two pins on the hydraulic cylinder, remove the pin from the height adjustment, remove the 4 pins on the arms that hold the mower, then I take a wrench and an air ratchet and remove the 4 bolts that hold the pivot arms to the mount that the kit adds to the bottom of the tractor. That mounting plate can stay on the tractor. Might take 10 minutes.

 

Are all your pins aftermarkets or will the dealer set me up with that. I can really fore see a lot of swapping back and forth so the best setup will go along way in to a good experience
Thoughts on staying away from tile beds? Are these tractors heavy enough to do any damage? or you folks drive over them all the time

This sites awesome

 

The pins are aftermarket. I installed my own independent lift and put them on at that time. if the dealer puts it on they are probably going to route the hydraulics in a more permanent way that will make it hard to remove the cylinder. Mine just run up the back end and I coil them up under the seat when they are not plugged into the loader port for use.

one reason I bought a 2032R is that I can strip it down to a weight that shouldn't damage anything I can put on all the wheel weights, loader ballast box to make it a pretty heavy machine. I don't do it with the loader and backhoe or ballast box on but I mow over my septic tank without any issue. Removing those things is good for a 1000+lb weight decrease.

Unless you plan to buy a bagger setup I would just get a finish mower or a separate mower. They are not cheap but I love mowing with the 61in EFI quicktrak I bought last year. That thing can get in places a 61in mower has no business fitting.

 

I suggest a ZTR if you can afford it. Then you don't need to worry about taking anything off the 2032 to mow. BH can stay on all the time.

If you do go with a RFM get atleast a 72", I run an 84" on my 2720. I use it for the all the rough/wide open area. The ZTR with the 60: deck is used for all the tight areas. The belly mower gets used as ballast.

 

I would do a finish mower. I have a 4410 which had the old school 72 deck. Real job taking it off. It also didn't cut up to my expectations. Ended up putting a frontier rear discharge on and loved it.