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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, just purchased a JD 322 in reasonable shape, 1086 hrs and I'm looking to do a base line maint.on it. Seems the PO already did the engine oil and filter change, and also after a pressure test, flushed and filled with new coolant. He didn't flush or change the hydro fluid or filter which looks pretty red from the sight tube. At the very least I'll change the hydro filter. The red fluid to me means Dexron but that;s a car AT fluid. Do these tractors take the same ? My 3184 Cub Cadet takes ( according to the dealer ) a special $ 11.a quart fluid...but others claim success with other oils. Oils often spark a spirited debate, quite vocal at times. Other than a broken off grease fitting on a hydraulic cylinder, can't locate the 4 th grease fitting and excessive play in the steering wheel the rest of the tractor seems OK.. Smooth engine ( quiet I like ) and seemingly strong hydro.. Issues I should look for/be aware of ? This could be a good one even though maintenance may have been lacking at some point in time..
 

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Transmission Capacity (includes filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 U.S. pt. (6.2 L)

All-Weather Hydrostatic Fluid or an equivalent type F Automatic Transmission Fluid.

322 OM can be downloaded (free) from Deere website
(CD or printed available for purchase)
 

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You want either atf-f or John Deere low-vis Hygard. The Deere fluid is usually cheaper, you will need 5 quarts. Deere fluid is clear, but they do sell red dye to make it easier to see.


There is no flush, just drain, change the filter and refill.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Transmission Capacity (includes filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 U.S. pt. (6.2 L)

All-Weather Hydrostatic Fluid or an equivalent type F Automatic Transmission Fluid.

322 OM can be downloaded (free) from Deere website
(CD or printed available for purchase)
Interesting that it's a type F fluid that was used in Ford vehicles many years ago. Ford had the snappy shits when apparently folks wanted a smoother shift, enter the GM Dexron. Are any of the aforementioned brands/types red like I see in the sight plastic tube ?
 

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I'm not too familiar with the Type F fluid. The little that I am aware of it was "designed" to be used in a wet clutch application, as in an automatic tranny. Think of spraying oil on your standard transmission dry clutch... and then wonder why you can't spin your tires in a 6 grand hole-shot! In the 60', 70's and 80'S, JD recommended Type F or an oil that met their oil spec 303. JD then formulated a "new oil" to meet their spec J20C and called it "Hy-Gard". They then re-invented it so it may be used in lower temps to meet their oil spec JD20D, and called it "Lo-Vis Hy-Gard with the only differences being operating air temp. Also, to my knowledge, none of the JD oil were red, BUT! They also introduced a red dye that could be added to the oil to make it more readily visible in the possibly fogged looking site tubes.

My personal thoughts are to drain and refill with Hy-Gard or Lo-Vis depending on your location. Here's a chart showing max & min temps of each oil:

780168


A quick comment on checking the oil level in the sight glass. Check level BEFORE starting or 10-15 minutes after shutting down. If you check while running, nothing will be in the sight glass! Depending on how "deep" you want to get into your 322, MUCH info is available, just ask. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not too familiar with the Type F fluid. The little that I am aware of it was "designed" to be used in a wet clutch application, as in an automatic tranny. Think of spraying oil on your standard transmission dry clutch... and then wonder why you can't spin your tires in a 6 grand hole-shot! In the 60', 70's and 80'S, JD recommended Type F or an oil that met their oil spec 303. JD then formulated a "new oil" to meet their spec J20C and called it "Hy-Gard". They then re-invented it so it may be used in lower temps to meet their oil spec JD20D, and called it "Lo-Vis Hy-Gard with the only differences being operating air temp. Also, to my knowledge, none of the JD oil were red, BUT! They also introduced a red dye that could be added to the oil to make it more readily visible in the possibly fogged looking site tubes.

My personal thoughts are to drain and refill with Hy-Gard or Lo-Vis depending on your location. Here's a chart showing max & min temps of each oil:

View attachment 780168

A quick comment on checking the oil level in the sight glass. Check level BEFORE starting or 10-15 minutes after shutting down. If you check while running, nothing will be in the sight glass! Depending on how "deep" you want to get into your 322, MUCH info is available, just ask. Bob
My brother worked for a trucking guy who had a 13 year old kid. Kid checked the oil in a truck, said it was full, father took the truck out and froze the engine fast due to do low oil. Kid checked it when it was running. When he said full on the dipstick, it was " full "...
I'm not too familiar with the Type F fluid. The little that I am aware of it was "designed" to be used in a wet clutch application, as in an automatic tranny. Think of spraying oil on your standard transmission dry clutch... and then wonder why you can't spin your tires in a 6 grand hole-shot! In the 60', 70's and 80'S, JD recommended Type F or an oil that met their oil spec 303. JD then formulated a "new oil" to meet their spec J20C and called it "Hy-Gard". They then re-invented it so it may be used in lower temps to meet their oil spec JD20D, and called it "Lo-Vis Hy-Gard with the only differences being operating air temp. Also, to my knowledge, none of the JD oil were red, BUT! They also introduced a red dye that could be added to the oil to make it more readily visible in the possibly fogged looking site tubes.

My personal thoughts are to drain and refill with Hy-Gard or Lo-Vis depending on your location. Here's a chart showing max & min temps of each oil:

View attachment 780168

A quick comment on checking the oil level in the sight glass. Check level BEFORE starting or 10-15 minutes after shutting down. If you check while running, nothing will be in the sight glass! Depending on how "deep" you want to get into your 322, MUCH info is available, just ask. Bob
I see the low Vis high end is only good for around 80 degrees... We get many days above 80, some above 90 and occasionally a hundred and higher... Apparently the Hy Guard is the better choice... I'll pass on the " Deep " in the 322, oil and filter changes are fine with me..
 
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