Green Tractor Talk banner

New 4720

14154 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Jer
Hello,
I'm new to this forum, but I've been reading it quite a bit for the last month while researching a new tractor. I have an X748 and liked it so much, that I wanted another JD.
So,I just ordered a new 4720 from the local dealer. I'm mainly going to use it for loader work. The lift capacity on the 400 cx is very impressive for the size of tractor. I'm really hoping it will handle round bales. I know ideally that a 5000 series would be better for this, but I wanted something that was a little more manuverable in the woods and pastures. I like the hydro also. Have any of you guys tested the limits of this tractor/loader combo? I don't need to handle round bales all day long or anything, I just need to cart one around every few days or so.
My current setup as ordered is:
4720 open station with canopy
Air ride seat
Rear Electro Hydraulic
Rear 3rd SCV
Power Beyond
400 CX, Skid Steer, Third function on loader, HD 72" bucket, Bale Spear, 48" pallet forks
R4 tires
220 lbs worth of rear wheel weights

I'm wondering if the 220 lbs will be enough with a 1200 lb bale on the front? If not, I could get a ballast box.
The other thing that I'm wondering about, is the 3rd function for the loader. My thoughts are to get some type of grapple down the road, and the 3rd hydraulic function control is a little "un-handy" on the open station tractors. Are there any good aftermarket solutions for getting that rear electro hydraulic function on the joystick? Is a diverter valve a better way to go, sharing the loader curl with the grapple? Can the diverter valve be dealer installed easily down the road? Is the loader 3rd function hose long enough to get to the couplers on the rear of the tractor?
By the way, after buying this tractor, I am now completely broke. I settled on 17.4% off list price on the total package. Does that sound reasonable?
Thanks for a nice forum
See less See more
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
I have a Cabbed 4520 with the 400cx. I have 440 pounds of wheel weights (they can be mounted on the inside of the rim) on my tractor and I also use a ballast box full of protland cement. That to me is a minimum as I can still lift the rear wheels trying to dig stuff up.

I have not found the limit of the 400cx loader yet. I can tell you that the rear of the tractor will lift well before the loader stops with the ballast box and wheel weights.

You will enjoy your new tractor!
See less See more
Welcome to GTT!

Arlen, I think you will absolutely need the ballast box-you must have weight behind the rear axle to properly balance the machine. You may even consider getting the extension for it as well.

The new tractors have a EH valve (electric/hydraulic) valve that is joystick operated and can be plumbed to the loader for a grapple. The factory divert can be added later, but it is expensive. Since you are getting a OS machine and not a cabbed one, then you can add you own valve stack easily and MUCH cheaper if you can fabricate the mounts for it and attach it to the ROPS.
See less See more
Very Cool!!!

Arlen,
Wecome from a fellow newbie!

You sound like you lined up almost all of the essentials - you will need the ballast box. I run a 4720 with forks and require the ballast box when moving wood beyond a 1/3 of a load. I also have 440lb of wheel weights total. I can't you how many times I've lifted the rear end trying to move big piles of wood - its not a good feeling! :thumbsdown: There are no brakes in the front and if you lift up while rolling, its not fun (carry low). Brian's comment about running the tires wide with the weights inside is an awesome idea I'd like to use myself. You can't have too much stability if you can afford the width.

The CX FEL should be a real help as well. I got used to leveling on the fly without it.. But man - I would love to have one!

Kenny mentioned a mod I just made to my machine to add rear remotes. Look here - http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?3618-4th-amp-5th-SCV-using-PB . I went from a 3rd SCV to 4th and 5th remotes for about $700 (and powerbeyond to boot - you've already got it). It's not hard to do.

You'll love the machine - more torque than traction and over a ton of lift capacity. I couldn't get by without mine. 'No idea if the price was good... I can only say you'll be happy you've got it! :thumbup1gif:

Again, welcome to the forum!
Matt
See less See more
:wgtt:

I definitely wouldn't recommend putting 1200 pounds out front with only 220 in the rear. That is subject for a new axel in the future. I think you should get the ballast box WITH the extension or always have a box blade or something else heavy on the back to offset. The 4720 will definitely be able to handle it, but only if it is weighted properly:good2:
See less See more
Arlen,
Wecome from a fellow newbie!

You sound like you lined up almost all of the essentials - you will need the ballast box. There are no brakes in the front and if you lift up while rolling, its not fun (carry low).
Kenny mentioned a mod I just made to my machine to add rear remotes.
You'll love the machine - more torque than traction and over a ton of lift capacity. I couldn't get by without mine. 'No idea if the price was good... I can only say you'll be happy you've got it! :thumbup1gif:

Again, welcome to the forum!
Matt

I see you are part of the open station club also. Looks like you have a very useful setup.
Thanks for the info. I'd better get a ballast box. I did think of using a 3 point bale spear and using a round bale for ballast, but I'd have to grab one off the trailer with the loader first. I suppose if you are in 4wd, then you would get braking action up front?? I really like your hydraulic mod. That's kinda why I got the power beyond option, so I could do fun stuff like that.
one other thing I was wondering... how is the 3 range hydro to work with?
I should have it in another week or two. I can't wait.
Thanks for the warm welcome.
See less See more
I just emailed the dealer, I'm going to get a ballast box and an iMatch. I might as well spend what little money I have left. I was wondering if any of you have seen a "dumpable" ballast box? If there is such a thing, I figured I could fill it with rocks, then keep dumping them on my rock pile.
See less See more
I just emailed the dealer, I'm going to get a ballast box and an iMatch. I might as well spend what little money I have left. I was wondering if any of you have seen a "dumpable" ballast box? If there is such a thing, I figured I could fill it with rocks, then keep dumping them on my rock pile.
Welcome to GTT Arlen.

The closest thing to a dumpable ballast box is a dirt scoop; but with a loader, you don't need one. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...50184&ci_sku=250184&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}
See less See more
Arlen,
The hydrostatic transmission makes moving loads a breeze. Stop, change range, go, backup... no effort. B range is good for transporting stuff or pulling something, A for pushing with the FEL, C for going anywhere fast. I have a good deal of grade at my place so the hydro was a requirement when looking at tractors. With a new stump grinder on the rear, which takes lots of small adjustments while grinding, you can't beat the hydrostatic.

Most folks use portland cement in their ballast boxes as it is a bit denser than the regular stuff. A few folks around me use bricks but I think that’s because it’s all they had... You need everything you can get for ballast. You used to be able to buy lead from tire shops... Some regulation probably prohibits you from getting it now - but that would be perfect (although expensive) if melted down and cast into manageable bricks. Plain old iron stock would work well too... much more dense than cement. Check with your dealer on the tire pressure you should use when you figure out your ballast + bale weight, that’s important as well.

Oh... No brakes in 4wd either if the rears are airborne, just the drag of the transmission and your momentum. If you every get up on a downhill grade, you won't stop until you drop the load. Which you'll do amazingly quick. It gets the heart pumpin'! :rolleyes: Carry low and keep a hand on the stick.

You're set-up is lookin' good. Get all the mass in the rear you can and you should be able to tackle the bales. Take care, that’s a big load regardless.

Nice! :good2:

Matt
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
What i do is when using my loader i put my ballast box on (with the imatch its really not a pain) then when im done with my loader i usually take the loader off and park the ballast box on the inside of the loader. that way its out of the way and it makes you use it when using the loader. I love my 4720 (cabbed) i use mine for planting food plots, mowing grass (20-25 acres) with a tow behind finish mower, plow snow with a front blade, clearing brush, moving square bales around, and property maintenance.
You will be happy with the 4720, it is an all around good tractor.
See less See more
You'll love your new 4720, no question.

I have fluid in my rear tires, and have moved small round bales without issue. I know I'll draw fire for saying that out loud, but it's true. I do have the BB with extensions, and it certainly adds stability and is healthier for the front axle. You'll be able to move large rounds with a spear with a Portland cement loaded BB plus some rear wheel weight, or rear tire fluid, or both.

-Jer.
See less See more
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top