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New attachments for the X749 needed

13439 Views 67 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Spudland_Dave
I am thinking about adding a new 48" tiller something along the lines of a Deere 647 or similar. Is anyone familiar with these smaller width units or a competing unit? I want a heavy duty unit in a narrow width. Need this to get the tight spots in my customer yards, I have a 673 for my 4520 already.

The other thing I am looking into is snow blades and blowers, this would be for driveways and sidewalks. I confess that snow equipment is where I am the most ignorant. We tend to get several snows a year that are 3 to 6 inches and on occasion we have 12 to 24 inches over 24 hours, that isn't normal though.

Has anyone compared the Frontier equipment closely to the Deere branded stuff?
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Thanks for all the replies and helpful advice, sure is a lot to think about.

I was looking into the idea of a snow push with the rubber edges and found this one from the Worksite Pro line http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/cons...dia/pdf/attachments/DKASPCWP_snow_pushers.pdf

Would consider the 8 ft model for the tlb, but would still need a broom.

Alot depends on whether I get the year round contract on a large condominium at the right price. Should be a decision made in the next week after Thanksgiving. If not I will stick with the smaller equipment for residential use and bundle up.

Correct me if I am wrong but there does not seem to be alot of price difference between a snowblower on the X749 and a 72-78" 3 pt model for the tractors. Just trying to consider all of my options before narrowing this down.
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Front mount blowers are expensive. You are correct, you can get a small front mount, or a medium sized rear mount for the same price.

I have an 84" snow push. I love it for what I do, but some would not like it since I have to push everything in front of me and not let it drift off to one side of a plow.

I keep thining of making a small one for the 3 point to get in the hard to reach areas, but time is a problem.
I am going to make the rounds to look at clearances and confined spaces at all the sites today. Hopefully this will help me reach a conclusion as to what best suits my needs.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.
Front mount blowers are expensive.
I guess I would like add to Brian's statement. The blower in itself is not more expensive. It is the extra lift and drive pieces required that usually add to the price. Particularly if that is all you use this type of set up for. In my case the drive and lift and tilt can accomodate the blower or the brush on the same machine.:thumbup1gif:
Pete,

That is a great looking 318 you have, looks well cared for.


What is your take on having the implements balance each other out?
Yeah, the 318 is in good shape. Given what I just spent for the new starter and deck, I need to get 4 more years out of it before I could think of upgrading.

Ok, I measured the blower and it's the 47", you think I'd trust my own signature... it has the metal blade on it. Spudland, I agree that the impeller chamber is not as sturdy as it should be. It was designed for light residential use, and definitely not gravel abuse. The blower and bizarre adapter for the 318 cost $2K back in 2000.

All I've ever used is a front mount blower.

As for the balance question, it comes down to weight. Much like a ballast box is the most compact weight, same here in small tractor land. So the implements will balance each other out, but it will be long. Plowing can only go bad two ways: Not enough rear traction so tires spin, and not enough front tire sideways traction so tractor can't push the snow to the side. If the blade is angled right, there is some push down on the front tires that helps. As the blade curls and throws the snow out over the top, there is a reactionary force that pushes down. There's a sweet spot of speed, angle, and snow curling out the top. At times, I've had to take a running start at it because you can't start from zero just pushing up against the snow.

For the blower, it's only traction. The 4WD I'm _guessing_ would really be great. The weight of the blower would help on the front, and rear weight (weight of plow or add weights to plow if you can figure out how to add weights to the plow and I know you can) would give you tons of traction.

You'd just have to see if you need chains with this arrangement. Chains will scratch asphalt and concrete, and if either is sealed it shows up even more. I'd be sure your customers know this or be able to stop if you can't get it without chains and have them understand. I'd have them ready. It sucks putting them on in the cold, but it would get you out if there's a problem. I also claim that anyone who says they've never had to put chains back on a tractor during show work is lying. And the smaller the tire, the harder it is. I usually let some air out of the tire to get the chains on, then re-inflate. I put a bungee strap around and tie it in at about 10 different places. Enclosed is a picture of this. Some copper wire attachment points, some zip ties.

So with 4WD, implements will balance, I'd also look at a way to add weight to the blade. Overall length is only issue, you should be able to figure that out from your reconnaissance today. Be ready with chains. Front blowers are very easy to use, and I think they are better on small tractors, but I've yet to use a rear one.

I think I posted this, but, I've priced an 8' blade with rear wheel for my 4520. If I freeze plowing snow (when next I plow), it will be on order. Hard for me to justify a blower for the 4520 when I've only used my blower 3 times in 10 years, and 1 of those times was just for sport.

Finally, here's a shot of the 318 from this spring when it was all cleaned up ready for another summer.

Pete

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Randy,
I had a chance to look into this a little more and figured the angle cylinder should operate the pivot on the quick attach adaptor on the tractor side. So this would work with a front blade and the broom. So yes it appears that the up front costs (pun intended) can be shared to a high degree.

Right now I have two heated cabs and I sure want to use one of these if possible. Second, I did some searching today and have found a lead on a used 60" brush that was mounted on a 770, need to see it and figure out if it can work for my uses if the price is right.
Pete,
Thanks for the information, since I am a newbie to all ot this the insight really helps with the decision making.

Cleaned up that 318 really looks like a creampuff.:thumbup1gif:
Have done some looking around today and I am considering getting an Erskine 8' snowpush with the pull back option to use on my 110tlb ss loader. Also considering the 781 RP Erskine snow blower, does anyone have any comments on a 3pt rear pull snowblower? How good is Erskine equipment?
I have never had a pull behind blower. The issue I see is that you are packing the snow down with your tires and then trying to scrape it off the ground with the blower. I would be affraid that you would leave tire tracks behind.

IMHO, you will love the snow push! I could not live without mine.
Brian,

Does a snow push leave the asphalt clean enough to melt off quickly? For the most part we have dry powder snow.

I was thinking if you drive forward with the blower to remove most of the snow that you could then use the snowpush to finish it off, does this sound right to you?
Well, here is the deal..... If you had a real-real dry powdery snow, I think the rubber scrapper on the snow push would wear out fast from the dry pavement. Here we ussually have enough snow to make it lubricate the rubber. IF we got a light snow, I would take out the leaf blower and blow it off.

I have to assume that the light snow you are talking about is heavier than something you would use a leaf blower with. With that said, I think it would scrape it away since your 749 will not pack it too bad. Sometimes I have issues getting the driveway perfectly clean if we get a wet snow, I drive over it with trucks, then it gets cold, then I try to remove it.

IMHO, you are on the right track. The only thing I would want to do if I was in your position is be able to snow blow down a pile I made with the snow push. with a pull behind, that would not be possible.

Let me get you some pics of my push... One sec.
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Here is my push. You can see the rubber replaceable blade. This can be replaced with nylon for more "power" It is also adjustable up and down for more pressure.

The biggest issue I have is that I cannot get close to anything I want to back drag due to the legnth of the side wings. I have to drive next to it and turn the snow away. Small price to pay to me. If the wings were rmovable, it would rock! I could do just about anything with it then.

You can see where my snow blower is. It has not moved in the last 3 years.

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Brian,
What I am looking at now is to fit the 110tlb, not the 749. The snowpush I am considering is an Erskine 8' model with the pull back feature, this allows you to rotate the push 90 degrees and use a separate blade to drag back the snow close to a wall.

The blower is a 78" wide rear pull for the rear as mentioned earlier and I agree that trying to drive over a pile would be an issue. It would seem that you could break this pile out though and them run over it. I think the pull back feature should aid in pulling back and breaking up the pile to drive over it.

I am beginning to wonder if the snow push by itself would be enough for most years? May not need to buy a blower just yet.


That is a nice snow push you have, I think I would add a pull back blade to it.
If I had more time I would build a snowpush, seems like a good project.
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Those are nice

http://www.erskineattachments.com/attachments/snow_pusher/index.cfm

IMHO, a 8'er might be on the big side for a 110, but as long as you don't have too much snow you should be ok. With my 3720 I had trouble turning with a ton of snow up front. I know the 4520 will be better and I know I would never go bigger for what I use it for. Long straight parking lots would be tough for me since all the snow you pick up, you push, unlike a plow that moves some to the side. You can always take a 1/2 swipe though.

Do you have loaded tires?
Brian,
Don't have loaded tires on any of the tractors but would have either the backhoe or snow blower on the rear. The 110tlb weighs about 6400 lbs without a backhoe but with the cab. Quite a bit more weight than my 4520 which has about 1075 lbs of front and rear weights and totals about 5500 lbs.

If I start out with a snow push on the front and leave the backhoe in place this would be the easy and cheap way to go for now. I am sure I would need more equipment if I add to the customer list but I think the snowpush will work for now. I should add that my main focus is taking care of my existing customers needs and not trying to get into commercial snowblowing as a fulll time job.


The Erskine 8' snowpush with the pull back blade is roughly $3200 msrp according to the rep I spoke with yesterday. The Frontier Worksite Pro model that is similar is about $4300 and I can't see where it is any better.
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IMHO, a 8'er might be on the big side for a 110, but as long as you don't have too much snow you should be ok. With my 3720 I had trouble turning with a ton of snow up front.
Never used a "Genuine" Snowpush with wings, I can imagine with a full push it would be alot to handle, but I know the 7.5' blade I built/modded for my 3520 is not what I'd call too much.....I've considered making a set of small wings, but I really only use it in reverse to back drag anyways. The blower does the heavy lifting for me.

jenkinsph said:
The Erskine 8' snowpush with the pull back blade is roughly $3200 msrp according to the rep I spoke with yesterday. The Frontier Worksite Pro model that is similar is about $4300 and I can't see where it is any better.
Any interest in making your own? I've got less then $500.00 in mine. Started with a 7.5' Fisher blade, removed all the factory brackets, fabbed up the SS/QA, had everything professionally powdercoated and voila.
Never used a "Genuine" Snowpush with wings, I can imagine with a full push it would be alot to handle, but I know the 7.5' blade I built/modded for my 3520 is not what I'd call too much.....I've considered making a set of small wings, but I really only use it in reverse to back drag anyways. The blower does the heavy lifting for me.



Any interest in making your own? I've got less then $500.00 in mine. Started with a 7.5' Fisher blade, removed all the factory brackets, fabbed up the SS/QA, had everything professionally powdercoated and voila.
Dave, the issue with a snowpush being too large, IMHO, is your first push. You have to take a full swath and push it the full distance it needs to be pushed. For me, I might have to push 7 foot wide of snow a foot deep. It piles up and starts coming over the top and becomes a ton of snow to push! Once thats done, you can take partial swaths. Without wings the snow would get pushed to one side or another.... For me, a 72 inch wide one would be perfect! The 84 is a touch wide, but the heavier 4520 should handle it better.
Never used a "Genuine" Snowpush with wings, I can imagine with a full push it would be alot to handle, but I know the 7.5' blade I built/modded for my 3520 is not what I'd call too much.....I've considered making a set of small wings, but I really only use it in reverse to back drag anyways. The blower does the heavy lifting for me.



Any interest in making your own? I've got less then $500.00 in mine. Started with a 7.5' Fisher blade, removed all the factory brackets, fabbed up the SS/QA, had everything professionally powdercoated and voila.
Yes, I have given alot of thought to building my own last night. Looks to be an easy project too. Is a curved blade necessary for the back wall? An 8 ft push averages about 800 to 900 lbs in a heavy model so the steel is approximately $450 and the edges are extra. Powdercoat in my area about $125, leaves the edges for $250 approximately. Seems I could build my own for $800 to $1000.

Considering I already have some extra 3/8" plate, heavy tubing, angle, and flatbar on hand I shouldn't need much in the way of steel for this project.

Need input on the edges though as I have never seen one of these up close. Maybe the simple thing is to buy some replacement edges and fab up the mountings.
The back on mine is not curved, but there are angles to the flat sheet that would be easy to make. As far as an edge, are you talking about the rubber cutting edge? Those are cheap.

If you need specs, measurments or more pictures just let me know.

FYI, I found mine for less than 1K. A new model of what I have is 1,600 MSRP.
Brian,
Thanks for the help with this so far. Where I live I already know that there are none in stock to be had. Yes the rubber edges are what I was referring to, any idea what these cost? I did go thru your pics again after posting and see that the backwall is just a simple break which is easy to do. Any measurements for the wall thickness on the large pieces would be helpful too.

I have looked thru my metal on hand and should have almost everything I need to build the box and blade supports, so I may build this for around $500 or a little more.

Many Thanks,
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