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Discussion Starter #1
After struggling with different do it yourself ways to save a buck, I threw in the towel today and picked up a new ballast box from my local dealer. I plan to borrow holland pavers that are bordering my garden fence to go in the box and filling in the gaps iwith sand. 740 lbs total hung directly on the three point hitch. 620 lbs without the sand. Placed my order for 1000 yds of clean fill to extend my front lawn over an old marshy creek bed. Should be much safer with the ballast.
 

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Is the creek bed still flowing, or is it marshy only because it won't drain? Are you planning to keep the area drained with a culvert ? I suppose you plan to move the dirt where you want it using a loader, so beware, all that weight has a two-fold effect. It will counterbalance your loader as it's supposed to, but if the ground you're on is soft enough (read: muddy/marshy), you'll bury the rear wheels or the entire machine. Have a winch , tow strap handy.
 

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laced my order for 1000 yds of clean fill to extend my front lawn over an old marshy creek bed.
If you can, I would dry out the area first before filling it.

As it dries, start gradually filling at the high side(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The creek is actually a dry creek bed in dry weather that only flows during field run off from the surrounding crop land. During spring rains, the ground around the creek has lots of standing water in the left behind plow furrows. When it dries up in summer, I can drive on it safely. My plan with clean fill is to add it from the edge of my driveway outward to the edge of the creek. Depth of fill will range from 1-3’. The time it will take to get 1000 yds delivered and spread ishould give it plenty of time to soak up the 6” or less standing water and dry out.

Good point though. I’ll be paying close attention to how far the tractor sinks in as I go.
 

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The creek is actually a dry creek bed in dry weather that only flows during field run off from the surrounding crop land.
So where is the water going to flow after the "dry" creek bed is filled in?

should give it plenty of time to soak up the 6” or less standing water and dry out.
Dirt doesn't soak up like a sponge. You just bury mud and it stays mud for a while.

I would fill it when it is dry.

Before filling I would lightly rip it with a disc or box blade scarifiers first so the dirt will mend together. Think about a second coat of paint. You lightly sand first so the second coat has something to bind to. If there is enough water from the field it could float out all of your fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not filling the creek bed itself, just the ground from the edge of the creek to my driveway ranging 20-100 ft perpendicular to 200 feet of driveway. The creek runs out to the highway with a big culvert to take it away. Water only stands in the surrounding trenches after heavy rains for a couple of days.

The new section of lawn is going to be the final touch, so it will get topsoiled, then seeded. The creek has pretty substantial flow during the heavy rains, but the actual flow stays in the creek. Surrounding area is purely standing water. Once filled, it will be 3’ higher ground with the creek flowing through it when not dried up.

I’ll follow your advice on filling once the water dries up. Thanks.
 

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Once you have it filled and graded out, get some grass on it, actually anything with roots, especially where the water will flow.

Keep us posted. We like pictures of stuff like this.
733353
 

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Fuzzy,

I hope you have a permit for filling wet lands. If you don't have a permit the possibility of the city or EPA making you dig that fill out, or fining you, or both exists
 

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Around here your only allowed 50 yards before needing a permit. Also, how do you plan on delivering said thousand yards? Through your driveway? Is it paved? Heavy trucks will anialate a paved driveway. As far as filling in a wide section of a creek bed, you’d need a Material to bridge over the organic material if you don’t strip it first. Get a good clay based soil so the water doesn’t penetrate your fills and saturate it. Also think about erosion in the wet months. Maybe throw some rip rap ( 4”x8” quarry rock) on the bank facing the creek all the way to the bottom on top of some geo textile fabric to keep the silt from eroding away and your yard edge from looking like the Grand Canyon.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
BobL,
No worries here. First, none of our property is designated wetlands. Second, it’s just post heavy rain filled depressions from a formerly plowed field that hold water for a few days. Third, we’re rural and not under any city jurisdiction. Fourth, the creek is dry most of the year and I’m not eliminating or interfering with its path whatsoever. Any future heavy rain will still have the creek for efficient drainage. It’s not even a designated creek, but just the path the water from adjacent fields take for drainage. If I blocked that path by filling it in, it would simply find another route. As it is, I’m fine with the path. It’s controlled and offers aesthetic value when it’s actually flowing.

I guess calling this a marsh and the drainage path a creek was misleading. We have a marsh across the highway, so I tend to call our property a marsh. It’s not, otherwise it never would have been developed.

I appreciate your concern for considering the possibility. Thank you for pointing it out.

Kbar,
Note my description above. What I identified as a creek is a ditch about 1’ wide and 6” deep. During extremely heavy rain, it expands to about 4’ wide up to 2’ deep and only maintains that for less than 24 hours after the rain subsides. Again, calling it a creek is not really an accurate description.

All I’m really doing is building up the level of my property by 1-3 ft by adding fill.

I am concerned about the dump trucks though. My asphalt driveway exits onto the main highway, so I plan to have the loads dumped at the end of the drive. I need to have a conversation with those delivering it to designate that spot and timing on delivery that allows me to keep up with my 1026 FEL. That would also allow me to decide when I have enough to stop deliveries. My measurements are very rough estimates and (hopefully) could be less than 1000 yds. Good point on the potential truck damage. Thanks.
 
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