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Discussion Starter #1
With the help of forum member Yank, we have been testing our new Extended iMatch Hook. Please give us your opinions, we've only made a very small run (of two) but if the interest is high we will get more made. This moves the hook away from the iMatch frame about 1" to allow implements to hook up easier-or at all in some cases.

Here is a Frontier Subsoiler:

Before (Won't even drop in the hook to attach):

Before-1.jpg

After:

After-1.jpg

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Frontier Box Blade:

Before, notice the frame is hitting the nuts:
Before-2.jpg

After:
After-2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is comparison picture, OEM hook on top, our hook on the bottom:

Compare.jpg

This is how close the OEM hook is to the frame for reference:

P1330164.jpg


Do you think we are onto something?

Do you the hook is out to far?

Would you buy one?

What is a reasonable price?

Include pins so you don't have to use the bolts, yes or no?
 

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Looking good! Although it will take away some retract length on the top cylinder which is magnified when lifting rear of a long attachment such as a rotary cutter. I use my father in law's rotary cutter and need to retract the top cylinder all the way to load the tractor on my gooseneck to avoid hanging up on the tail of the cutter.

How much retract is lost and do you think it would be an issue?

BTW I am interested as my I-Match top hook hits while hooking up to my tarter tiller.
 

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Another excellent improvement.
I don't have anything that can't hook up yet so I would not be an immediate customer.
As to price, what steel will it be produced from, will they be simply water jet or high def plasma cut or fully machined?
Powder coated or painted?
At this point I would speculate between 30 to 60 dollars. I wouldn't feel that was out of line to solve someones fit issues if they didn't wish to do their own modifications.

Nice job!
 

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Just a comment from my experience when I first got my iMatch -

In your pic with the box blade I notice the original hook is bolted and in the pic with your modified hook you are using pins.

When I first got my hitch I couldn’t hook up my Heavy Hitch weight hitch. After some help from Greg I loosened the bolts, which let the hook move enough that it would hook up.

So my suggestion would be to compare the old hook vs. the new both with pins. When using pins now that are a bit smaller diameter than the original bolts I get enough movement that everything hooks up fine.

Just thought I would mention this as I know you always do your very best with your research and development - don’t want you to miss something. Also when making a comparison like this it is important to have all variables the same.
 

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I have been helping Ken out with the hook for a while. He has put a lot of thought into its design. I have to say after using it for a couple days, it works. It flat out works. I did not cheat with my top n tilt. I set my IMatch to level and I left it alone. I hooked up every implement I own and it was so easy it’s ridiculous. My subsoiler wouldn’t even hook up until I drilled holes into my bolts and used pins. For this test, I put the nuts back on the bolts. My subsoiler went on easy as pie. If you have those type of implements that are brutal to get hooked up, I believe this to be the answer.
 

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I’d buy one tonight if they were available
 

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I never had any issues with the top hook on mine until I picked up a subsoiler 3 weeks ago. Mine is one of the County Line brand but it has the exact same "fit" problem the one in your pic has.

Personally, I think it's a good idea. I'd sell it without the pins but perhaps make the pins an "add on" option. No idea on pricing.
 

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Does the new hook have a different canter to it? The subsoiler pics look like the newer hook has a canter to it but the comparison pick looks like it just has more depth on the side that bolts to the I-Match.

Maybe because of the new hooks depth, the I-Match has to lean back slightly to have the attachment level?:dunno:
 

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Me too.

Ken,

If you are looking to expand your beta testing, then count me in. Good idea. :bigthumb:
X2 new top hooks for everybody :lol:

Seriously Kenny, just pick a price and get them on your site, you've never let us down before. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looking good! Although it will take away some retract length on the top cylinder which is magnified when lifting rear of a long attachment such as a rotary cutter. I use my father in law's rotary cutter and need to retract the top cylinder all the way to load the tractor on my gooseneck to avoid hanging up on the tail of the cutter.

How much retract is lost and do you think it would be an issue?

BTW I am interested as my I-Match top hook hits while hooking up to my tarter tiller.
I had the same thoughts BIG, that is why I asked this:

Do you the hook is out to far?
We could revise it to be maybe a 1/4" or 3/8" closer, I need help with that decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just a comment from my experience when I first got my iMatch -

In your pic with the box blade I notice the original hook is bolted and in the pic with your modified hook you are using pins.

When I first got my hitch I couldn’t hook up my Heavy Hitch weight hitch. After some help from Greg I loosened the bolts, which let the hook move enough that it would hook up.

So my suggestion would be to compare the old hook vs. the new both with pins. When using pins now that are a bit smaller diameter than the original bolts I get enough movement that everything hooks up fine.

Just thought I would mention this as I know you always do your very best with your research and development - don’t want you to miss something. Also when making a comparison like this it is important to have all variables the same.
I appreciate it Stan!

I read the old posts MANY times and I remember your issue (and solution from Greg) quite well, in this case the Yank's subsoiler would not attach in any way unless he removed the bushing for the top pin, then the frame was still against the iMatch.

We will get more pics in due time, some of those I copied from older threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Does the new hook have a different canter to it? The subsoiler pics look like the newer hook has a canter to it but the comparison pick looks like it just has more depth on the side that bolts to the I-Match.

Maybe because of the new hooks depth, the I-Match has to lean back slightly to have the attachment level?:dunno:
No, it's the same "canter" think...but I'm not really sure what you mean as I don't recognize that word except in "horse" talk.

noun

  • 1.
    a three-beat gait of a horse or other quadruped between a trot and a gallop.
    "he kicked his horse into a canter"



verb


  • 1.
    (of a horse) move at a canter in a particular direction.
    "they cantered down into the village"
All the angles of the hook are the virtually the same as can be seen in the comparison picture. The top link does have to be shorter for sure as you already mentioned in the other post.
 

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No, it's the same "canter" think...but I'm not really sure what you mean as I don't recognize that word except in "horse" talk.



All the angles of the hook are the virtually the same as can be seen in the comparison picture. The top link does have to be shorter for sure as you already mentioned in the other post.
Autocorrect got me twice. Should have been cant.

cant 1 (kănt)
n.
1. Angular deviation from a vertical or horizontal plane or surface; an inclination or slope.
2. A slanted or oblique surface.
 

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Ken, when I bought my HF quick hitch I had a top hook fabricated for this very reason. All they did was add on to the back of the hook that I already had and they charged me $30.00 if that helps you come to a figure. I would prefer yours for sure and save this one as a backup.
 

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Saw this on FB.

I wrestle with hooking up box blade.

This looks like it would solve that issue.

Thanks Ken.
 

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Do you have a picture of it by itself compared to the OEM one? It's hard to tell, but it looks like there is enough meat in your design to drill another hole in front of the existing one so that it's adjustable at the bottom hole. If someone was concerned about the top link retracting, they could move it in closer in the bottom hole.

Anyway, great work and thanks for thinking of improvements for all of us!
 

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I'd buy one. I can get all of my implements on the hook, but I've messed up the paint on the quick hitch doing it. It's all too tight. I have pins, but the ones I found are too long. I'd probably buy the right pins as well.

There was one offered on Amazon for a while, but it's showing "not currently available" today. I don't remember what the price was, but I think it was about $40. I didn't buy it because it didn't look like "Kenny" quality. Here's the link: TOP HOOK FOR CAT 1 QUICK HITCH
 
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