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Since the A is pretty similar to the B, do you know how far you can go with an in tractor engine rebuild? Can you do the main bearing and crank seals?
New Farmall B
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When I was 14 or 15, the neighbor kid and I bought a Farmall B from his dads friend for $25. It had been sitting in a field for over 10 years. They had put a can over the exhaust stack, but it was long gone and the motor had filled with water. We tore it down and cleaned it up. It had a cracked block that my dad welded up. The motor was froze, but we were able to get 2 pistons broke loose as the other two came out with the sleeves attached. In 1968, the kit to rebuild it included new pistons, rings, crankshaft and rod bearings, new sleeves and a gasket set for $44. We had the valves ground and the carb rebuilt. Changed the gear oil and put it all back together. We had to replace the tires too.
It actually ran pretty good and the cracked block didn’t leak. Antifreeze will usually find a hole to escape if there is one. My friends dad was working up a field at the time, so we pulled an old rod weeder with the B. It ran a lot hotter than it should when worked, but never overheated. We ended up selling it for $400. It was a fun project for a couple of kids.
It actually ran pretty good and the cracked block didn’t leak. Antifreeze will usually find a hole to escape if there is one. My friends dad was working up a field at the time, so we pulled an old rod weeder with the B. It ran a lot hotter than it should when worked, but never overheated. We ended up selling it for $400. It was a fun project for a couple of kids.
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@arlen It's good to see you on the farmallcub forum site. The only thing I had to do with my '44 B is to fix my starter and install a new clutch and a flywheel. Other than that, change out the engine oil and transmission/pto fluid. Oh, and I flushed out the radiator.
You will need to replace the gas cap with the free safety one (there was a recall since the late 70s that Navstar is still honoring). International Harvester & Farmall Gasoline Fueled Tractor Gas Cap Recall All you need is your tractor's serial number (or engine serial number if you are missing the id tag). It may take a few weeks to get it, but I have ordered one for all my Farmalls. The recall was due to some fires caused by the non-vented gas cap. Here is the info from the free gas cap website.
"A serious fire can occur during operation of a GASOLINE fueled tractor. Under certain conditions, gasoline vapors can build up pressure in the gas tank. If the gas tank cap is then removed, while the engine is running or hot, the sudden release of pressure could force gasoline out of the tank and result in a fire. Gasoline can also escape if the gas cap is not securely tightened. Never remove a gas cap from a hot or running tractor. Always tighten the cap securely. A new style gas cap, first available in 1980, has special design features to reduce gasoline vapor build-up and fuel eruption due to improper gas cap removal.�The new gas cap has two vent holes in the top of the cap and has �PRESSURE - OPEN SLOWLY� embossed on the top of the cap.
If your gas cap does not have TWO (2) vent holes AND does not have the words "Pressure Open Slowly" embossed on the top, then you are eligible to recieve a FREE GAS CAP."
You will need to replace the gas cap with the free safety one (there was a recall since the late 70s that Navstar is still honoring). International Harvester & Farmall Gasoline Fueled Tractor Gas Cap Recall All you need is your tractor's serial number (or engine serial number if you are missing the id tag). It may take a few weeks to get it, but I have ordered one for all my Farmalls. The recall was due to some fires caused by the non-vented gas cap. Here is the info from the free gas cap website.
"A serious fire can occur during operation of a GASOLINE fueled tractor. Under certain conditions, gasoline vapors can build up pressure in the gas tank. If the gas tank cap is then removed, while the engine is running or hot, the sudden release of pressure could force gasoline out of the tank and result in a fire. Gasoline can also escape if the gas cap is not securely tightened. Never remove a gas cap from a hot or running tractor. Always tighten the cap securely. A new style gas cap, first available in 1980, has special design features to reduce gasoline vapor build-up and fuel eruption due to improper gas cap removal.�The new gas cap has two vent holes in the top of the cap and has �PRESSURE - OPEN SLOWLY� embossed on the top of the cap.
If your gas cap does not have TWO (2) vent holes AND does not have the words "Pressure Open Slowly" embossed on the top, then you are eligible to recieve a FREE GAS CAP."
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5,158 Posts
A step backward...I wrecked the crankshaft trying to get the pulley off
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I failed to understand its geometry, and after the set screw broke off, I chose the wrong strategy to get the pulley off.
A replacement is hard to get, but at least it's expensive.
On the brighter side, everything is apart, and there can't be too many more places where it can torture me.
.I failed to understand its geometry, and after the set screw broke off, I chose the wrong strategy to get the pulley off.
A replacement is hard to get, but at least it's expensive
.On the brighter side, everything is apart, and there can't be too many more places where it can torture me.
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1,290 Posts
Several places to get parts for these old machines. I just acquired 2 of them, 140s. This one needs nothing, the other one is smoking and at the least probably needs a ring job. I will likely restore it completely. These old tractors bring premium money in our area, especially now that everyone is looking to get back into garden farming. One thing about them, they aren't hard to work on.
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Friend of mine here had one he inherited. Looked a lot like the 2 pics you just posted. First thing he did was sell it. I thought it was a mistake but he didn't want it or need it. Why it was left to him...??? He has since hired me to do tractor work for him at his place. Wouldn't have needed me if he would have kept it. ???
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1,290 Posts
Depends on what kind of tractor work he would be doing. These tractors aren't the best thing for ground engaging implements. They have a single point Fasthitch, ground PTO and not much power. But for planting, cultivating, side dressing and middle busting there is nothing better. I bet he pretty much gave that tractor away. The one in the pics is worth at least $7K right now.
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Well, I’m getting close to the reassembly stage. I’ve spent every spare moment I’ve had on it😂.
I’m at $2,000 and counting😳. New valves, sleeves, pistons, ground crank, bearings, clutch, throw out bearing.
Rebuilt the governor, distributor, and carburetor, and oil pump. Installing electronic ignition, resurfacing the flywheel, new ring gear, rebuilt the starter, and alternator. Radiator is at the shop as we speak, it’s the only unknown left, but if I need to replace it, what’s another $500😂?
This is just the engine. I still need to look at the rest of the tractor😃
I will probably have 3-4K in it when I’m done, but at least it will be worth $1500 when it’s done😂
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I’m at $2,000 and counting😳. New valves, sleeves, pistons, ground crank, bearings, clutch, throw out bearing.
Rebuilt the governor, distributor, and carburetor, and oil pump. Installing electronic ignition, resurfacing the flywheel, new ring gear, rebuilt the starter, and alternator. Radiator is at the shop as we speak, it’s the only unknown left, but if I need to replace it, what’s another $500😂?
This is just the engine. I still need to look at the rest of the tractor😃
I will probably have 3-4K in it when I’m done, but at least it will be worth $1500 when it’s done😂
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5,158 Posts
It lives!😀😀😀
After a long road, and many setbacks, I got it back together and running today.
It runs pretty good, but I will have to fiddle with the carb and governor a little maybe. And put the sheet metal back on.
I’m going to take a long break from it though!
After a long road, and many setbacks, I got it back together and running today.
It runs pretty good, but I will have to fiddle with the carb and governor a little maybe. And put the sheet metal back on.
I’m going to take a long break from it though!
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2,813 Posts
I see you still have the old gas cap on it. I don't know if you knew or have been told yet, but IH recalled the gas caps over 40 years ago - they're not vented properly and can cause a fire by leaking onto hot engine parts. What's amazing is, you can still get the replacement safety gas cap, for free. Just fill in your personal information and your tractor's serial number (or engine number if your B's ID plate is missing or hard to read) and send it to here: International Harvester & Farmall Gasoline Fueled Tractor Gas Cap Recall I have got the replacement caps for all my Farmalls. Sometimes it may take a few weeks, but so far they sent me one for every one I requested. They will do this until the supply runs out. The new caps are vented better.
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Thanks! I just submitted the form
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Ready to rake hay. I hammered out the dents and got the body work to fit pretty good. My wife drove it yesterday and said all the whining gear noise, and the little gear grinding when shifting is all normal for it😂. She said it is exactly how it is supposed to be. That pretty well wraps up the project for now.
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I have a BN I could part with, I’m just around the corner from you, northeast of Grand Rapids
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I was raised with a Super A. Never really cared for the tricycle tractors but I suppose they had a purpose.
Been keeping an eye out for a yard ornament.
Been keeping an eye out for a yard ornament.
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Very tight turning radius is about the only advantage of the narrow front that I can think of
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