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Discussion Starter #1
Well folks, here is the final drawing of my new detached garage... Plans are finalized soon from architect . Concrete block construction. Need to get an updated survey on property and a few more things before submitting to county and community board . Hoping for a July start....

739458


36 x 34 overall with 14ft high walls

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Why the dogleg in the single garage door wall? Same amount of wall to make it a rectangular building. Just need to add a little more slab and roffing and you have a bigger shop for only a little bit of money. Both bays of the shop would be equal length. Four square corners are easier to build that six corners.
 

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I can not make it a rectangular building due to my shed & lean too location but I wanted to get at least 30ft length in part of the garage. We are not allowing to build in front of the current house and along with my wetland area this also influenced the design. This will maintain just under 25ft between the back wall of the new garage to the front of the shed and lean too since I will be keeping them in place. I have attached a quick rough drawing to show what I did with the design and why...

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Any reason the "pass through" doors aren't the same size & don't line up?

It sounds & looks like you've done your homework. Keep us posted with pictures!
 
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Any reason the "pass through" doors aren't the same size & don't line up?

It sounds & looks like you've done your homework. Keep us posted with pictures!
That was one of my thoughts as well. It would be nice if they lined up so you could easily pull through but without knowing how it is being used for sure, maybe it isn't used in that manner and the back door is more for a lawn mower. tractor or other things that just primarily uses the back door rather than it being used for true pass through.
 
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We did a garage build (attached) last summer but yours looks quite a bit different. You are in FL so I doubt you are going to bother with in-floor heat. We had to deal with much deeper footings that you will likely need to because of frost depth.

Am I seeing the drawing right and are you putting a power meter on the side? I would add water to the garage if you can and if you are trenching from the house for that, I would tie into power from the house if you can. Not sure how it works in your neck of the woods but it saved us about $15/mo forever by avoiding another meter. We just upgraded the meter that we had from 150A service (200A meter) to 400A service (320A meter I think something like that). There was no cost from the Power Company and the meter upgrade was built into the cost of the garage build. At least by code around here we buried conduit around the outside of the house and we had to have the garage panel 6' or so from the point of entry into the garage. It would have been the same if it was detached or attached. Do a floor drain if you can by code. We can if it drains to daylight but that allowance differs from city by city. Some simply don't allow it. I love my trench drain. It is 16' long in my 30x40 garage. This might differ a bit with you but we get a lot of salt and sand melting off vehicles in the winter. That hits the ground and settles on the cement or in the trench drain. I just pop up the grates and run a shop vac down the trench to keep the sand and such from going down the drain. Though it helps that the slab is heated as a lot of water just evaporates. That is unless I am pressure washing a vehicle in the garage.

I would carefully plan out lighting. I went with regular T8 florescent fixtures. Then I ripped out the ballasts and direct wired them to line voltage so I can use line voltage LED bulbs. Watch out for LED strip lights. More so if they clip together. A lot of them are from China and if one dies in 3 years good luck at finding a replacement that matches. T8 LED replacements can be bought anywhere and are a lot easier to swap a bulb in than an entire fixture. Plan out your outlets and then double it. It is easier to add them now than later. Between the garage and 12x30 mudroom/laundry room we put in about 100 receptacles. All 20A. I went with GFCI breakers but you can do outlets for less. As you go around the garage I alternated circuits. For instance I have South Wall A and B. One outlet is on A then the next B then A. Then the next wall on a different pair of circuits. This way if I have two heavy load items near each other they are not on a shared circuit. Another circuit for the ceiling outlets. I also installed some empty boxes around the garage with a 1" conduit going up to the attic. This way I can drop in power if I want 240V or AV/speaker wire if I want it for something like that later.

Really stop and think about everything you can ahead of time. Changes are expensive. We spent another $40K on changes and over budget things. In the end there isn't much I would change if I were to start over today knowing what I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was not as concerned with actually making the doors front & rear a true pass thru. It was about clearing the lean-too and getting the correct drainage/sloping as the garage will be a bit higher than the shed/lean-too causing a low spot(poor future planning on my part) I will have space to go around the garage instead of going through the garage if needed anyway. Front left area will have a toilet "closet" and I will put a sink in somewhere close but outside the "closet" to allow for a smaller footprint.
 
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We did a garage build (attached) last summer but yours looks quite a bit different. You are in FL so I doubt you are going to bother with in-floor heat. We had to deal with much deeper footings that you will likely need to because of frost depth......
Thanks for all of the input. I appreciate it. Yes here in FL we do not need the heated floors. We have to worry about hurricanes !!
Yes, the electrical and plug layout is going to be a pain. I had the architect just put together a "temporary/basic" layout to get permitted and will make changes/corrections before it goes in at that point(Switches, exterior lights, junction boxes for electric garage door openers all set)

Electric meter on the outside is going to be house and garage meter upgraded from 200A(currently) to 400A. Current placement of meter is between house and new garage with the line hanging above ground from the main pole on a diagonal . I am going to have it buried from the pole to the new meter placement(outside wall of new garage) then run up through rafter area to then just hang between new garage and house. I will have 200A in new garage and keep 200A line to house. Its going to be a pain in the a** to due because of its current location. Its in the way of the new garage walls so once they start to build, it may have to get buried once after they get the first 7 ft of height built, hook up to the new meter. Then a "temporary" position for the house 200A will have to be decided so that they can finish building, then go back and run the "temporary" line through the rafter area. Its not going to be fun in the middle of August making sure we do not loose power for too long. May have to break out the generator and portable a/c's for a day or two.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I will not be doing interior walls, just leaving the block.
 

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I thought this was my thread at first when I saw it. Here is the one that I did last year if you have an hour or two and are interested.


The biggest bit of advice I got, I think from here was we started with three 9x9 doors. Someone I think here convinced me to make one of the doors 10' wide. There was a lot of talk about increasing all the doors and I would regret not having a 12' door but this is primarily parking not really a work shop. I have stuff for doing smaller projects on motorcycles but I have a shop in a 30x40 pole barn with a 12x12 door that is also insulated and heated which sits about 15' from the new garage that was built. So that impacted some of my decisions.

I would highly recommend taking a look at this thread and maybe post your plans for a recommendation on lighting.


In my case 30x40 is a somewhat regular size and I found someone else that had built the same size garage so I just used their layout. The one thing that people first say when they walk in my garage at night for the first time is... "Wow this lighting is amazing!!!!" There are no shadows anywhere and there is plenty of light to do anything anywhere in the garage.

A buddy of mine is building a pole barn in front of his house and had a similar issue to you. He lives out in the country and had buried power coming down the front yard. He had his own transformer. The problem is that the transformer was right where he wanted to put the pole barn. He wanted to have a single meter on the pole barn but the power had to move before the pole barn could be built and he was stumped. What I told him to do is sink some 6x6 posts in the ground where his outside wall will be on the backside of the pole barn. Slap some plywood or regular wood between the posts and mount a meter and a NEMA (outdoor) rated 400A panel. Well it is a panel with two 200A breakers on it they moved his power to that then he will build the pole barn along side of that. His house is powered off that meter/panel. So he only moved the power once last summer and once the meter was moved and power in place it was easier to deal with just the electrician and building inspector rather than trying to get the electric company coordinated as well for a bunch of moves. It might not work in your area but nearly every farm in our area are wired this way.

Since you are trenching to the house, run lots of additional Conduit/PEX runs. I have additional detached buildings but for instance between my shop in the pole barn and the new garage there are three 3/4" PEX runs (water, fiber optic network and compressed air). The compressed air is so I can leave my big 60 gallon tank in the pole barn where I normally use it but I can have drop lines in the parking garage for airing up tires and other light work and not have to listen to a compressor. The PEX I used is rated to 200PSI. These PEX runs are in addition to two 2" conduit runs and a big insulated pair of 1" PEX which is used for hot water for the heating system. PEX and Conduit are cheap to run and you will be thankful to have extra in a trench or dig a couple parallel trenches later down the road. I know the inspector and the contractor would shake their heads when they saw it all but when I explained what it was for they asked how long have I been planning this because they would have never thought to do this.

Having unfinished walls was my plan as well. I told the contractor just do the mins for electrical which is pretty much one outlet per garage door. Well that turned into 50 double boxes and 100 recepticles. The reason was we were delayed and it was running into Oct. I was going to insulate and sheetrock the walls myself other than the firewall that was needed for code. Well because I didn't have time and it was getting cold when they were sheetrocking, I said the heck with it and we did the rest of the wiring really quick and sealed up everything.

Another tip, not sure what openers you are going with. We did jackshaft openers. Three Liftmaster 8500W openers. Because they need power up in the corner of the garage door we put outlets there but I also put outlets in the ceiling where a traditional opener would go. Now if I want to go with a different opener it isn't a big deal as the power is there. I put in 3 ceiling fan boxes. Why not. I only have 1 fan in there now but it is easy to add more if needed. I forget some of the numbers we we went through something like 1200' of 12gauge wiring. The contractor did comment that we have more wiring in the garage than some houses he has built. But it is done. Well kind of is a garage ever really done?
 

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Here is a pic my buddy sent the other day. He has been bringing in a ton of dirt and gravel to prep for the pole barn build. If you look at the right side of this pic by the tractor you can see the panel where he mounted the meter and that first panel. He also has all his electrical for the solar system on there. I want to say whey they buried the wires they left enough slack where he could shift the components to the side of the pole barn if he wanted to. Slide out the boards and mount them to the wall once it is there. Just an idea on how he delt with a similar issue.


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Discussion Starter #12
Survey is completed. Engineering of trusses is complete. Now I just need to submit for 3 different groups. HOA, Ranger Drainage then Orange County Fl. All have fees. Working a getting bid for concrete pad and block work. Need bit for electrical work as well.
Not too bad so far. $1900 for architect. Trusses with engineering $2400 built and delivered to site when needed.
 

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Well the HOA and local area permits are approved. Now I just need the major one, Orange Cnty, Fl. Hopefully next week it can get done. Concrete work is about 4 weeks out. Should only take and week to pour slab and put up block. So might be the first week of Aug.....
 

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Some things here in Fl are still closed up...IE the county offices. So applied online today. Skipped the online training class and just read the help manual. What a very long process. All files have to be single page only .pdf. Majority have to be in landscape mode. Roof Truss plans were 30 pages which all had to be scanned in one at a time and labeled and this did not include the 20 other pages necessary. Oh yeah, I almost forgot the 2 notarized docs....
Now lets see if I did it correctly.
 

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Looking forward to the start of this project.
 

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Looking forward to the start of this project.

Thanks. I am looking forward to starting it as well. All of this paperwork sucks !!!!
 
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Well First round of Permitting...Failed(of coarse)


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County wants a $700 review of possible wetland area interference thus causing the EPD deficiencies. My building is over 15ft from possible "wetlands" but as usual, the county wants $$$ since they have not been getting enough thanks to COVID.
And building review, I was missing the hurricane/miami-dade product approval page for the products that I will be using for roll up doors, side door, asphalt shingles, exterior walk through doors.. Since we live with hurricanes all products have to be "approved" for the hurricane miami-dade wind rating.

Emailed approver for EPD to restate how far away I am from wetland to see if she will let it pass without spending $700.
All other documents uploaded to website for Building Review.

Now its another waiting game.......
 
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Well reply from the lady at the county about my CAD(Conservation Area Determination) says it needs to be done even though I have plenty of room. She wants to make sure I am not " accidentally impacted" because there could be fines. Its funny how a man made "wetland" can be impacted. My wetland is due to the city building roads through the middle of a low spot and then not maintaining the drainage around the area. I wonder what fines they paid to themselves when they built the road through the middle of the "wetland".....
Below is an overview of the area as of a few months ago. As you can see clearly, the roads are impeding the water from draining down hill towards the bottom right "red" circle as they would do naturally yet somehow its my fault. I really dislike dealing with county governments.

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And they say it with a straight face like your the one who is goofy.
 

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Brendan, our tax dollars at work.
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I uploaded the forms needed for the permit application. Because part of my backyard is in a flood plane, I have to spend $300 for a Surveyor to receive my elevation certificate. The elevation certificate will be sent to the Parish(County) Government and they'll tell me what the minimum elevation of the shop floor should be. After concrete is poured, the Surveyor will return to check that it is at, or above specified elevation. The second site visit is included in the price.

Of course, this is another story, so I'll start a shop thread of my own.
 
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