JdI could be wrong, but even if the pins were able to be removed, the door must be open to separate the hinges from each other. Notice the curve on the hinge mounted to the door frame. The hinges will not clear each other without the door open.
See, even from an old fart I learned something.↓↓↓I do believe you were a bit harsh. Most all members here try to help each other. However, circumstances/situations/conditions do not always present themselves to readers of posts.
We are all learning.
Thanks for stepping up.
I could be wrong, but even if the pins were able to be removed, the door must be open to separate the hinges from each other. Notice the curve on the hinge mounted to the door frame. The hinges will not clear each other without the door open.
Learned something again. Thanks.Also a lot of times if the door is an exterior rated door they come with a security hinge with either a bend like what the OP has or a tab like this that sits in a hole. Like the pins I mentioned these make it nearly impossible to simply pull a pin and remove the door.
Mine are just standard wheeled concrete saw blade width around 1/4 inch. I did not think about using my screen roller however it would not push it down to the full depth of the crack either as mine are around 2 inch deep. I have 6 inch concrete floors.Interesting. I'm planning on doing the same thing with 1/4 inch backer rod in 1/8 inch control joints. Had to order the 1/4 inch backer rod from Closed Cell Backer Rod . 100 feet for $3.43. Got 200 feet of it. For filling/leveling, going to try Rapid Set Hybrid Silane Polyether Self Leveling Sealant (from Home Depot) in a small section to see how well it works. Reviews are mixed but I figure that most are applying it wrong and not using a backer rod. Going to use a Screen Spline Roller to install the backer rod.
How wide are your control joints ? 3/8 seemed to wide for my 1/8 inch control joints so I hunted down some 1/4 inch.