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Corndog Hater
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Fjjd18, that is a very nice building! Thanks for taking the time to post pics and write ups along the way. Have fun arranging and settling into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I could be wrong, but even if the pins were able to be removed, the door must be open to separate the hinges from each other. Notice the curve on the hinge mounted to the door frame. The hinges will not clear each other without the door open.
Jd
Nice catch on the curved hinge. I didn’t even notice that ....
 
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fjjd18, no problem on this end. Thank you for clearing up what I missed, I admit I human, I make mistakes, and I missed the OUTSWING FRAME. If I could have seen the hinges ,, I wouldn't have replied.
 

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I do believe you were a bit harsh. Most all members here try to help each other. However, circumstances/situations/conditions do not always present themselves to readers of posts.
We are all learning.
Thanks for stepping up. (y) (y)
See, even from an old fart I learned something.↓↓↓
I could be wrong, but even if the pins were able to be removed, the door must be open to separate the hinges from each other. Notice the curve on the hinge mounted to the door frame. The hinges will not clear each other without the door open.
 

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For cases where you want to use an outgoing door and if concerned about someone removing the hinge pins. You can replace a couple hinge screws with security pins. Cheap insurance for those that might feel the need.


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Also a lot of times if the door is an exterior rated door they come with a security hinge with either a bend like what the OP has or a tab like this that sits in a hole. Like the pins I mentioned these make it nearly impossible to simply pull a pin and remove the door. Also one could argue it is more secure than an inward swinging door as one couldn't kick the door open. I don't like outward singing exterior doors personally because of snow. Not much of an issue for OP though.



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Also a lot of times if the door is an exterior rated door they come with a security hinge with either a bend like what the OP has or a tab like this that sits in a hole. Like the pins I mentioned these make it nearly impossible to simply pull a pin and remove the door.
Learned something again. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Well started another project on the list of many things to complete....Backer rod in the "relief/stress/control" cracks. Covered about 2/3 of the garage tonight. I will have to move a bunch of stuff to finish the rest. Put 2 layers in the so they are now about 1/2 full. Still trying to decide what to finish them off with, self lever, caulk, etc. And I am still not sure how in am finishing floor so that affects those joints. May just leave it smooth concrete but a part of me wants to epoxy it. Only time and $$ will dictate which I decide.

770974

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770976
 

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Interesting. I'm planning on doing the same thing with 1/4 inch backer rod in 1/8 inch control joints. Had to order the 1/4 inch backer rod from Closed Cell Backer Rod . 100 feet for $3.43. Got 200 feet of it. For filling/leveling, going to try Rapid Set Hybrid Silane Polyether Self Leveling Sealant (from Home Depot) in a small section to see how well it works. Reviews are mixed but I figure that most are applying it wrong and not using a backer rod. Going to use a Screen Spline Roller to install the backer rod.

How wide are your control joints ? 3/8 seemed to wide for my 1/8 inch control joints so I hunted down some 1/4 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Interesting. I'm planning on doing the same thing with 1/4 inch backer rod in 1/8 inch control joints. Had to order the 1/4 inch backer rod from Closed Cell Backer Rod . 100 feet for $3.43. Got 200 feet of it. For filling/leveling, going to try Rapid Set Hybrid Silane Polyether Self Leveling Sealant (from Home Depot) in a small section to see how well it works. Reviews are mixed but I figure that most are applying it wrong and not using a backer rod. Going to use a Screen Spline Roller to install the backer rod.

How wide are your control joints ? 3/8 seemed to wide for my 1/8 inch control joints so I hunted down some 1/4 inch.
Mine are just standard wheeled concrete saw blade width around 1/4 inch. I did not think about using my screen roller however it would not push it down to the full depth of the crack either as mine are around 2 inch deep. I have 6 inch concrete floors.
 
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Filling control joints is purely for aesthetics (to keep them from filling with dirt/dust), if your a going through the effort to do it then make sure you finish it with a product designed to adhere to concrete. Don't just get normal caulking and put it in there, yes it will work for a time but it usually peels out faster. Sika makes some decent products I've used in driveway expansion joints (about 1" wide) in the past. Goes on super easy and self levels. Great adhesion. Just my 2 cents.


Your building looks great!
 

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Sika makes some decent products
I've used a crap load of their caulking. It sticks to everything it touches. All of the expansion joints in my garage are filled with it.
 
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