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New guy, tractor coming soon.

3031 Views 17 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  t613
Hey all, tractor newby here.

Next purchase on the list is a 2520. My wallet and land is too tight for a 3x20 or above. Still considering the 2720 for the "buy the next one up" rule. Couple questions;

What is everyone using for a trailer for their 2x20 tractors?

Is it easy to load the tires after the fact? I have a friend with a (sweet) 4720 that swears by it but I'm not convinced it'll make that much difference on these smaller tires.

Is there anything other than the pedal setup and green paint that made you pick the JD 2000?(trying to remain reasonable and shop the competition... But I want a green one)

My land is all quite sloped glacial and no grass. I'm telling my wife that the main function is snow removal. Next comes landscaping, I've got some rock walls that need building and a driveway that needs to be leveled, and firewood tasks -skiding, pileing, etc. Also my parents have 4 acres mostly grass that I would do projects at (they have their own mower).


I know that it seems like some of these short term projects require a bigger machine but I'm not in a rush, and I'm hoping that if properly ballasted that I can move some good size rocks with a 2520. From what ive lurked it seems they're a bit underrated.

Thanks fellas,

J
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Loaded tires will not get the same traction as air filled tires with iron weights. With iron weights you can adjust your air pressure to get max traction. Not the case with liquid.

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Hey all, tractor newby here.

Next purchase on the list is a 2520. My wallet and land is too tight for a 3x20 or above. Still considering the 2720 for the "buy the next one up" rule. Couple questions;

What is everyone using for a trailer for their 2x20 tractors?

Is it easy to load the tires after the fact? I have a friend with a (sweet) 4720 that swears by it but I'm not convinced it'll make that much difference on these smaller tires.

Is there anything other than the pedal setup and green paint that made you pick the JD 2000?(trying to remain reasonable and shop the competition... But I want a green one)

My land is all quite sloped glacial and no grass. I'm telling my wife that the main function is snow removal. Next comes landscaping, I've got some rock walls that need building and a driveway that needs to be leveled, and firewood tasks -skiding, pileing, etc. Also my parents have 4 acres mostly grass that I would do projects at (they have their own mower).


I know that it seems like some of these short term projects require a bigger machine but I'm not in a rush, and I'm hoping that if properly ballasted that I can move some good size rocks with a 2520. From what ive lurked it seems they're a bit underrated.

Thanks fellas,

J
For trailering I'd recommend a car hauler style trailer. These typcially start at 16 ft, have two 3500 lb axles with one axle having electronic brakes. Determine your overall length from bucket to end of rear 3pt attachment, then buy one size bigger of course. I'd think a 16 or 18 ft should do.

When I bought I shortlisted my search down to JD and Kubota. After seat time on both, the JD just fit me better. Also in my area I have multiple JD dealers so I was able to get competitive JD pricing.

You can load tires at anytime. However loaded tires do not offer the best FEL ballast. For this you need a ballast box.

BTW, you dont mention the size of your property.
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Welcome to the fun place.

What is everyone using for a trailer for their 2x20 tractors?
Sorry, can't help you with this one. Mine stays at home.

Is it easy to load the tires after the fact? I have a friend with a (sweet) 4720 that swears by it but I'm not convinced it'll make that much difference on these smaller tires.
Looks like Brian answered this one. But I will add that I like the ballast box as then I can remove it when not needed.

Is there anything other than the pedal setup and green paint that made you pick the JD 2000?(trying to remain reasonable and shop the competition... But I want a green one)
Dealer, dealer, dealer is another big one. I did not have an orange dealer near. And the JD dealers in the area are supurb.

I know that it seems like some of these short term projects require a bigger machine but I'm not in a rush, and I'm hoping that if properly ballasted that I can move some good size rocks with a 2520. From what ive lurked it seems they're a bit underrated.

Thanks fellas,

J
You are correct these little machines pack quite a punch for there size. The only limitation I can think of is speed in the projects you list. A larger machine will just get it done quicker.
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Trailer Selection

I bought a used Triton 16' Aluminum Trailer for $2200-. Probably a little pricey, but I wanted the lightweight aluminum construction.

http://www.tritontrailers.com/products/Model.aspx?CatID=26&SubCatID=42&ModelID=384&info=features

Truth be told, I haven't had the tractor FEL and BH on it yet. But after hauling logs, I know it will be up to the task. Some pic in my Barn and Building thread.....Welcome to the Green Tractor Talk family. ~Scotty
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Not sure if it's available on that size, but 4WD is very nice, especially since you mentioned sloped land.

I've never used iron weights on my 4320 but I do have the tires filled and for using a disc, tiller, bushhog or hay fork, I couldn't ask for any better results as far as traction is concerned.

Good luck, you won't go wrong either way.
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I never loaded my tires and I probably never will. When you load the rear tires, the center of gravity of the weight is right in the center of the axle. The FEL bucket is about 4 feet in front of the front axle and can lift over 1,000 lbs. A ballast box has a center of gravity about 4 feet behind the rear axle and my ballast box is about 850 lbs and just like a see-saw the weight on the front balances the weight on the back. On a car you want 50/50 weight distribution, on a tractor you want 67/33 because your rear axle is by far the strongest and when you do pick up a heavy load your weight distribution will hopefully be around 50/50.

Even with that heavy ballast on the back I can occasional start to lift the back wheels off the ground.

This is one of my favorite pictures that really shows what the 2520 is capable of:

Attachments

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I can't answer about the trailer issue yet because I haven't bought one yet. as far as filled tires I would NEVER run a rubber tired machine with out it. Here in Michigan we use to use calcium chloride but that is hard on rims and if you spring a leak bad for the ground it leaks into. Now we use Rim Guard www.rimguard.biz it is safe for the ground and don't rot rims. In my 26x12x12 tires on my 1026R the rear tires have approx. 9 gallons of rim guard in each tire for approx. 90lbs plus the tire, rim and my 280lbs but sitting on the tractor. I have never had any trouble with FEL work, when mowing the rim guard lowers the center of gravity and NO! IT DOES NOT TARE UP THE LAWN.

I have been a heavy equipment operator foe 30+ years and adisableded now, so this little tractor is just something to keep me busy and maybe make a dollar or two. Hope this helps you out a little.
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Is there anything other than the pedal setup and green paint that made you pick the JD 2000?(trying to remain reasonable and shop the competition... But I want a green one)
You have received lots of opinions on your other questions but I will touch on this one in particular: The dealer and parts network JD has is second to none, they even give you free access to the same database the parts counter uses, and it's got models dating back 30+ years in there. I could have pretty much any part I needed the next day-they are that good.

Other comments:

I hate the pedal setup on the competition, as well as the joystick position on most of them.

I primarily mow in the summer, so I do not want loaded tires. I can easily add weight when I need it with my ballast box. As written-loaded tires are NOT a substitute for rear ballast anyway.

I have a 16' 10k rated wide trailer, you can "get by" with a 7k, but you can push the limits. Brakes are a must on both axles IMHO.
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Hey J
Your questions have been pretty thoroughly answered,and I would have basically said the same for all of them,except the trailer deal. I don't trailer mine,but as was mentioned a car hauler type trailer would probably fit the task the best.
Ever notice what kind of trailer the dealer uses to transport these new machines to their drooling,and panting new owners?:laugh: 99% of the time it's a car hauler type trailer.

From what ive lurked it seems they're a bit underrated.
You can take that statement to the bank.They are definitely underrated. My 2520 just never ceases to surprise me as to what it can do!:good2:

As Randy and Kenny stated,the dealer is key,and that is why I went green. IMO,they are second to none. Hopefully you have a "good" JD dealer.There are those few though that ruin the JD name.

How many acres of your own will you be working?

Good luck in your decision.

Greg
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Ditto to everything Kenny said! Yeah, I went 'light' on the Gross Vehicle Weight, but I don't envisions any long hauls, and can time my 'hauls' to light traffic periods. IE 6 AM Sunday morning etc. So far it's not been an issue, but again I haven't towed the 'rig'.........! I'm pulling with a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-8, and like I said, with the logs and lumber that I've hauled, It's got plenty of oommpf! Stopping is another deal! I bought a Tekonsha Brake Controller, but don't have it installed yet. The close Rural hauls that I've done have been uneventful. That said, If I were to get on an Interstate, I'd want the brake box functional, and may have a son pull it with an F-150......... ~Scotty
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My 2 cents.....

I like having the loaded tires as I feel its much more stable going across hills,ditches,etc. I also feel it rides smoother which is kind of counter intuitive...but being lucky enough to be able to drive one with/without side by side made a believer out of me. I liked it so much,I loaded the tires on my JD GT275 and my exmark zero turn. They have noticeably better traction and stability now too.
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Well that's good, I wasn't sure if it was something the dealer had to do before installation of the tires.

My land itself is about 2.3 acres, a little small for a tractor purchase I know, but I have a 275ft gravel drive on a hill with a 25x80 turnaround. No grass, gardens or anything yet. A bunch of downed dead/rotting trees. A box blade is in order eventually because my driveway ruts pretty bad being on a hill. I'm hoping I can get the job done with the loader for a little while so that I don't have to finance all the implements.

Really liking the vibe here on GreenTractortalk fellas! Thanks for the replies.
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Well that's good, I wasn't sure if it was something the dealer had to do ore installation of the tires.

My land itself is about 2.3 acres, a little small for a tractor purchase I know, but I have a 275ft gravel drive on a hill with a 25x80 turnaround. No grass, gardens or anything yet. A bunch of downed dead/rotting trees. A box blade is in order eventually because my driveway ruts pretty bad being on a hill. I'm hoping I can get the job done with the loader for a little while so that I don't have to finance all the implements.

Really liking the vibe here on GreenTractortalk fellas! Thanks for the replies.
The box blade is a good purchase, it is the Swiss Army knife for a tractor and an iMatch quick hitch is also a very good purchase.

Which part of the country are you in?
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I'm in good ol' Maine. Downeast/Acadia region, closer to Bangor. Plenty of snow removal to be happening...
I'm hoping I can get the job done with the loader for a little while so that I don't have to finance all the implements.

Really liking the vibe here on GreenTractortalk fellas! Thanks for the replies.
Here is where I think you are making a mistake. I assume your using 0% john Deere credit. It's alot easier just to send an extra $20 to $50 per month to jdf., than it is to save up $300 a month towards those attachments.

If I could go back in time, I would have added more to my 1026r. After financing my new tractor last month, I'm really feeling poor after spending another $1800 out of pocket on a blade and a broom.
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Here is where I think you are making a mistake. I assume your using 0% john Deere credit. It's alot easier just to send an extra $20 to $50 per month to jdf., than it is to save up $300 a month towards those attachments.

If I could go back in time, I would have added more to my 1026r. After financing my new tractor last month, I'm really feeling poor after spending another $1800 out of pocket on a blade and a broom.
I tend to agree. A plan to plan on buying more later is not a good plan IMO either. Paying for a tractor you cannot use cause you don't have the required attachment is silly.

ME_JD, As a new comer to tractors be careful on "must haves" from people on a forum. We all like to spend other peoples money. Also, often is the case where a user must have an item, attachment or additional options on his or her tractor and you not knowing the circumstances of the "must have" it may be of absolute no use to you.
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I bought my 2720 with a rear blade, only because I had to buy two implements to get a $600 rebate.

Look around and you'll find reasonably priced implements that don't happen to be painted green. Tractor Supply Company is one good place to look. I probably wouldn't have paid the $650 for it at tractor purchase time without the rebate (and therefore being practically free).

As far as capability, theses tractors are AMAZING!!! I wish I had taken pictures of it at the time, but I was at a friends house moving some rocks in his yard for him. I nosed the bucket up to a biggie and actually coerced the little machine to roll it over 3 times to it's new resting place.

The rock was wider than the 5' bucket, about 2 feet high and 3 feet in the 3rd dimension. I don't know what it could have weighed, but it was definitely a lot. It worked at it, but it got it to roll!

I promise that if I have to go back there in the spring, i'll get a picture of the Deere with the rock. It was very impressive.

Good luck on the purchase, whatever you buy!

Tim
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