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Hi, just got my 1025r on1-18-18. Only got a front end loader, light kit, r3 tires with chains and a I-match with it. Picked up a back blade 5' from TSC. Two things I would like to do it seeing I have a rod in by back to make things easy for me. 1 put a hdyr. cylinder on a back blade to turn it. 2 what size do you drill the I-match out to, to make it work on other stuff. If I don't have this in the right spot forgive me I hate computers I'm old school but I'm learning.
 

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Welcome from Illinois glad to have you join us you should find pleanty of help here. :good2:
 
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:gtfam:

:congrats::greentractorride::good2:

Give us a little more information on what you're trying to do with the iMatch Quick Hitch and we'll do our best to advise you further.
 

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:wgtt: from South and east of you.

Not sure what part of the I match your talking about.
 
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I read some of you drill it out bigger so it hooks up to other brands. Also I do have rear remote so that's why I want to do the hydr to turn the back blade. Thanks.
 
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2 what size do you drill the I-match out to, to make it work on other stuff.
:wgtt: - Great emoticon..cuts down on typing!


Normally, the issue with the I-Match not fitting implements isn't that anything needs to be drilled out. It's that without the required bushings there is tremendous slop. The Cat 1 I-Match needs bushings applied to the implement you intend to use with it on both the bottom and top pins.

bottombushings.jpg for bottom pins and
topbushings.jpg for the top.

Also, the Cat 1, 3-point pin spacing for implements is not followed by the manufacturer sometimes, requiring modification to the implement more often than the I-Match to get it to mate with the I-Match.

The other common problem (I've had it) is even if everything lines up, the I-Match top hook is very close to the frame. This may interfere with the hook engaging properly and many folks have had to add "meat" to the back of the hook, where it bolts to the I-Match, to make things work. This is where the only drilling may occur, to re-drill the holes for attaching the hook to the I-Match after adding a block of material to the back of it to extend the hook out a bit.

There are bunches of folks with lots of fix-it experience here regarding implements and the I-Match. If you can find a specific problem implement with regards to the I-Match, I'm sure someone here has addressed that very issue on that very implement here! With new machine and new implements, odds are most everything hooks right up.

Welcome aboard!

Matt
 

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I don't have an iMatch, so I can't offer anything in that regard.

Hopefully, the blade you purchased has mounting provisions for a hydraulic angling cylinder. If not, you'll be fabricating. As far as controlling it, if you're not going to be utilizing your FEL (front end loader) at the same time, you can route the hoses to the front joystick SCV (selective control valve) controlled couplers. Not the cleanest way to do it, but the cheapest.

John Deere offers a third SCV option for the 1025R. It mounts on the right rear corner of the tractor and the control lever extends forward, somewhat over the 3-point height control lever. That would be fairly clean and a 'bolt-on" installation that would not require any fabricating and no custom hydraulic plumbing. I'd speculate it is going to be the next most cost effective, exclusive method, to control the angling function.

There are aftermarket suppliers and a real good one that is one of our site sponsors that can provide multiple rear SCVs. They're a bit more involved and likely require some hydraulic plumbing fabrication.
 
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Welcome. Another from Michigan, we must be having a membership drive up there.

I think you light have the answer you need above but like the others have said. If you post a photo or description of what you want to do there are many can probably help. One tip that others will agree with. It if it fits yours that’s all that matters because if you borrow it out it might not come back the same.:flag_of_truce:
 

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:wgtt: From The Pacific NW - Oregon!!
 
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Welcome, buddy. Get us some pics of your problem. We will get it figured out for you and get you on your way. Your I match is fine, your implements will be what will need adjusting. Pics help us a ton.
 

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Hi, just got my 1025r on1-18-18. Only got a front end loader, light kit, r3 tires with chains and a I-match with it. Picked up a back blade 5' from TSC. Two things I would like to do it seeing I have a rod in by back to make things easy for me. 1 put a hdyr. cylinder on a back blade to turn it. 2 what size do you drill the I-match out to, to make it work on other stuff. If I don't have this in the right spot forgive me I hate computers I'm old school but I'm learning.
Welcome to Green Tractor Talk!
 

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Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia

:wgtt:
 

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Welcome from New York.
 

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Welcome driveshaft from another Michigander- Port Huron area. You'll get a lot of good information on this blog- and just enough foolishness to keep you laughing.
 

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Hi, just got my 1025r on1-18-18. Only got a front end loader, light kit, r3 tires with chains and a I-match with it. Picked up a back blade 5' from TSC. Two things I would like to do it seeing I have a rod in by back to make things easy for me. 1 put a hdyr. cylinder on a back blade to turn it. 2 what size do you drill the I-match out to, to make it work on other stuff. If I don't have this in the right spot forgive me I hate computers I'm old school but I'm learning.
As has been mentioned, I've not heard of any drilling on an iMatch. Either give a link to what you're referring to or pictures and folks here will have a suggestion. Also post a picture or the model # of the blade so folks can offer ideas on adding a hyd cyl to turn it.

Rob
 
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