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Discussion Starter #1
I have a couple of ideas I am working on right now for either modifications to an existing implement or the creation of a new implement to be able to handle specific tasks. Wondering what other ideas or needs that others have seen where either modifications or enhancements to an existing implement would improve its function or permit tasks or jobs to be handled more efficiently, effectively.

These aren't necessarily items which would have massive commercial application, or even for which a commercial market might exist. It just what enhancements, modifications, changes or other actions do you think would help make certain tasks easier, faster, etc or existing implements easier and better to complete a specific task or project? That's what I would like to see discussed in this thread.

I got thinking about this when I looked at the Big Tool Rack for a 3 point implement carry all. Not being sure how I was really going to use my rear 3PH carrier and also unsure if I would really use a $1,650 Big Tool rack, I bought a basic frame and built the 3 point carry all. That experience helped me tremendously and it also made me appreciate and respect the thought, effort, design and engineering that went into the Big Tool rack to make it successful.

I should start another thread, or resume the one from when I built the 3ph rear carrier to share what I have learned, what mistakes I made and what flat out doesn't work like I thought it would and how its extremely helpful and worked better than I hoped in other respects.

It might be helpful for others to hear my experiences and insight on the selected tie down and securing methods as there are a wide range of options and choices out there. If others working on rear carry all designs or ideas would like to hear the thoughts on the "tie down and securing methods", let me know and I will detail them for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Lawn Material Box

For this thread, I am going to start with something new I built awhile ago and have been using.

Idea One
One of the two that I am working on is a pallet box which is used for a variety of things including landscape clean up, etc. I mentioned this idea many months ago and how i built the first one, where in its first form, I had taken an existing pallet and modified it to have a back and sides to hold small material, such as weeds when pulled, shrub and bush trimmings, etc. in quantity. I purposely left the front open so its easy to dump as well as load.

You can use a cart or trailer for this purpose, but you can't dump it vertically on top of a pile, you end up off loading the cart or trailer by hand which is time and labor. I have watched commercial guys trim and cut back landscape material and then rake it all into tarps, drag the tarps and dump into the truck beds, etc. They spent as much time loading and dealing with the tarp as they did actually doing the trimming, etc. Plus the debris in the truck has to be unloaded later, it takes up valuable room in the truck and it blows out when going down the road. For the homeowner, they can dump the box on their burn pile, recycle pile.

Round 1.
My first run at it worked extremely well and was very helpful for landscape work which was occurring initially in my end of winter work around my lawn and more recently, next door to get a home ready to list for sale. Already, the item has changed numerous times just because some things worked and others didn't. For example, originally, I had the sides and back too low at about 4" of height. Why 4"? That's the material left from a crated item without cutting it.

Round 2.
The second modification was making the sides too high and it didn't permit long debris to fit in the box. When you stack long items across the sides, they shift and drop material when its transported. The whole point is for debris clean up, not to leave a trail of debris when using the item.

Round 3.
The third attempt and also mistake was making the sides square. Debris fell out the front, it was too easy to overload beyond the tractors lifting limit, it also didn't empty right. Plus, I ran into one of the square corners with my hip and it really hurt and put a deep bruise on my hip. Plus when dumping it, the front edge of the side panel hit the debris pile and damaged the side panels. The box also wouldn't enpty correctly because of the reinforcements used for the sides.

Description of what I will call "The Lawn Material Box"

The original base was a pallet which was covered with a piece of scrap thin plywood type crating material. This gives it a solid bottom and it is strong enough to be walked upon if needed. The rear of the pallet has a solid vertical back, which I made out of another piece of thin plywood which was part of a shipping crate for a drag I received via truck freight from Northern Tool last fall. The sides are the height of the rear of the 3 sided box, which also was the height of my pallet fork back panel. The sides are slightly tapered with the front edge rounded to eliminate any sharp points, etc.

Partial List of Intended Uses

A. This was very handy for piling on the weeds, shrub and bush trimming and branches and other lawn and landscape debris. I attached the base of the box to the pallet rack so I can dump it with the FEL by tipping the box as far forward as the FEL permits. The box stays on the forks. Its nice to be able to "stage" the "lawn material box" where the work is occurring and being able to easily move it with the FEL as needed. The sides and back allow the load to be significant, easily double or triple what would fit in the loader bucket on the 1 series. I had the box so full, I had trouble lifting it with my 120R FEL......

B. The box is strong enough to hold mulch and such material, which is also very handy for placing piles in the landscape bed areas to eliminate the manual hauling with the wheel barrows, etc.

C. Carry bags of lawn mulch, stone and not have the constraints of a rounded FEL bucket

D. Moving items which need to be lifted such as putting window air units or removing them, etc.

E. Using it as a vertical work platform for the SCUTS and CUTS, as I used it to trim the top of a hedge which previously required scaffolding to reach the top. Here is where self leveling FEL would be very handy and much safer.

F. It's a flat deck for carrying items like trees with root balls, flower pots and flower flats, etc.


Why Other existing Implements aren't as good for these tasks and likely other tasks to be thought of.


- The debris it carries is so small, a grapple, pallet forks won't hold it and you leave a trail of debris from the loading site to the dump pile.
- A FEL bucket holds a fraction of the material volume so more loads are required
- Anything on the rear 3 point can't be dumped or piled high
- Mrs. Bear was using a trash curb cart and pulling weeds and she filled it. It was so heavy that I had trouble getting it to the curb for the trash truck. The trash truck split the curb trash cart in half, around it's center due to the weight. In fact, the cart full of weeds weighed over 500 pounds. It was eye opening how heavy weeds are when pulled and how quickly they add up. I gave the driver $25 and I got rid of the broken cart and got a new one. Plus the lecture about using the cart improperly ended....:laugh: But it was important because it showed me how quickly a cart could exceed the FEL lift limits on a SCUT or even a CUT..


Design ideas to make this as functional and practical as possible include the following;

1. The ability for The box to vertically store hand tools to increase its function, such as a scoop shovel, pitch fork, loppers or snippers, etc to help with loading it in various locations.

2. Different panel material, including Lexan side and back panels so its easy to see the load and also, so its easy to keep clean and durable.

3. An easy system to secure and unhook the box to the pallet, much in the way the FEL bucket and pallet forks attach to the John Deere Quick Attach loader securing points with the two snap pins.

4. I also want the box to be able to be knocked down so it can be stored flat so it doesn't take up much space.

5. Perhaps a pallet doesn't need to be its foundation. I started with a pallet because they are readily available and easily replicated.

6. Cost needs to be practical.

So, does anyone have any projects which an implement could be either created or modified to achieve goal or complete the task?



The other implement is actually one which I need to work on further before mentioning it, but is has commercial application and I KNOW a market exists for it......:good2:...........
 

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Sounds interesting, be watching this.
 

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:ttiwwp:we need pics of what ya built so far-Sully Bear.:thumbup1gif:
 

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You mean like the piece I plug into the top of my rear weight bracket to hold my snow blower.:mocking:

Got the idea from a guy in the mitten.:good2:
 

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Someone had made a rack that could be fitting into a trailer, do not remember the size of the trailer. I do remember it was a metal (JD, agi-fab, or other). But it had weed whip, hedge trimmer, power cords, ladder, blower, different buckets for smaller hand tools.
 

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every implement should have a single/dual /3or 4 point lifting eyes to load /pick with a chain or hoist

also...a 2" receiver tube on the rear..

:yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:ttiwwp:we need pics of what ya built so far-Sully Bear.:thumbup1gif:
It's presently disassembled as I have been fitting some alternative panels, Lexan being one of them.......Once I put it back together I will take some pictures. Actually, the Lexan panels aren't much different in price than plywood, except they are light weight, very strong and also can't break (easily or with quite a bit of effort)

I want to get something that is easy to "Knock down" for storage and trying the different panel materials is primarily so I don't have to have an implement the size of a pallet sitting around. Worst case scenario, there will be a pallet like base, but even that is evolving into something which is not the bulk and size of the pallet.

I want to be able to have the side panel and back panel all pre drilled and use some type of quick fasteners (I am experimenting with Dzus fasteners as they are strong and simple and they hold on race car panels at 300 mph......)

That way, I can store the two sides and rear panel flat and then simply add them to the base when I want to use it. This way, the panels can hang up out of the way, etc.

It's a work in progress.......

I am also working on some snow plow wings for my snow plow and those might be in Lexan as well. Lexan can be heated and formed and then it will retain its shape and strength.....

Now that I think about it, the plow wings and the end panels for the Lawn Box share some common traits, rounded front edge, strong durable and flexible material (flexible so it doesn't shatter) need to be able to add and remove fairly easily.........

I also have an idea for the base where its simply the two sets of blocks to provide the platform the elevation to get under it with the pallet forks pretty easily. If I focus on the box being for the tasks I described OTHER THAN standing on it as a work platform, it simplifies things significantly. Being able to stand on the platform makes it a little trickier to design and build as it needs to be stable, a large part of which comes from using the forks spread for balancing the platform when stepping on it in different locations. When the pallet forks are not on the outside of the box for support, its too easy to step on one side and flip the entire box off the forks.

Ideally, the base would also store flat in a knocked down position. Not only does this make storing it easier, it would make shipping it should it ever go into production much easier as well...........
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What I learned about tool securing and carrying methods on my 3 point carry all.

Here are some pictures I took of the tie down and mounts I installed on my 3 point carry all for carrying items....

I would NOT mount the "grips" or whatever one wants to call them, in vertical pairs as I did. Here is why;

1. It makes getting items on and off more time consuming and unnecessary. I never had anyting come loose out of two of these grips, let alone one of them.

2. Tools with tapered handles or things such as the grass trimmer, etc are hampered by having the mounts one above the other. Its tougher to find tools which line up and fit with two of the same mounts than simply having one.

3. I would stagger them, with one style on the location of the current top row and either a larger one or different size on the "lower row" This would actually work better than having them directly above one another as I have.

4. I would limit my use of these tie downs to one half of the front side. I just don't find myself carrying more than two or three things for the typical project. Most often are the following tools;

- Steel landscape rake with flexible tines
- Pitch fork and these should ALWAYS be carried tines down to the deck / floor of the platform or you could take an eye out
- A shovel or two
- maybe an axe

5. Carabiners are very handy to carry items and secure things. Make sure you have a place to carry at least a couple of these, I carry my carabiners on one of these

Two Husky 36 in. Hanging Strap Rope HangAlls Handle 300 Lbs Each 550 804 | eBay

6. These straps are very handy for carrying a variety of things such as buckets, anything with a handle or even a hole in it such as hand held fertilizer spreader, scoop for dealing with snow melt material, all sorts of things.

7. These flexible tie downs are one of my favorites and I use them all the time. From carrying hand held leaf blowers when I am using my RC2048 rear mower so I can keep the radiator and screens clear of debris to keep the temps down. I have even carried ladders with these flex tie downs.

8. You MUST have some of these.....

https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Original-Reusable-Assorted/dp/B00SHBN38U/ref=asc_df_B00SHBN38U/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198078921834&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15264870599340108998&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017334&hvtargid=pla-349897442522&psc=1

these are really super handy and these are what I describe in #7 above for securing my Gas powered leaf blower when mowing in the brush, they don't seem super secure but used properly, they will hold the items as long as not too heavy, etc.

9. The base of the carry all works out real well with the various tie down "Mini D Ring" points. I carry a wide range of things on this platform from bags of snow melt covered with a mesh net which hooks into these tie down points. I also carry a Honda Walk behind snow blower and use these to secure the items.

I have had few issues where I needed a tie down point and didn't have one on the platform base. Also, I can stack items on these and cover them with whatever I am carrying and its not a problem.

If I were to give grades to the various tie down points I have used, here is what I would give the ones I have mentioned or attached pictures and links.

The Rubber Strap Grips Shown on the platform on the two rows
Grade- C
reason, more items don't fit them than do and it always seems like the available grips are the wrong size
Would I use these again? In much fewer numbers and with the changes I mentioned above.

The Husky Straps with Carabiners
Grade - A+
Reason very handy, very universal and can be hooked and unhooked while wearing gloves, which I always do
Would I use these again? No question, and more of them.

Flexible Tie Downs
Grade - A++
Reason, Dang handy and strong. Very flexible in securing items.
Would I use these again? On a carry all, you want to be able to carry all and these really will......

Bungee Straps shown in the photos
Grade - A
Reason - You have to carry an assortment, as shown, to have what you need. Still, great way to secure items to tie down points
Would I use these again? Definately

Small "D" rings shown on the Platform Base
Grade - B+
Reason - Inflexible as they are permanent mounted. But thats also their strength. As long as you plan ahead to have them where you need them, they will be handy and used extensively.
Would I use these again? Most likely. Perhaps even on the vertical portion of the carry all.

Other securing items for the carry all which I use and like'

This cargo net with hooks, its strong and weather doesn't impact it.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Strong-Stretch-Heavy-duty-Motorcycle/dp/B00DRAVCU2/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3J3X4YADMFQUD&keywords=cargo+net+with+hooks&qid=1565915482&s=hi&sprefix=cargo+net+with+hoo,tools,169&sr=1-8

Amazon.com: LoopRope | Bungee Cord Tie Down System | Adjustable Cargo Strap | Knot Free | Truck, RV, ATV, Camping,Outdoor Accessory, Multipurpose | Loop, Clip and Go | 5 Feet | Camo: Home Improvement

E track and tie down accessories. These are overkill for the small carry all, but very handy for trailers and larger items which need to be secured and which vary in size and tie down points.

https://customtiedowns.com/tie-downs/e-track-accessories/
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tool Box on the 3 point carry all, Good and Bad

Here are some pictures of my John Deere tool box, which is mounted on my 3 point carry all. Since my tractor has a cab, the tool box comes off because the ROPS comes off and it replaced by the Mauser Cab.

I mounted the tool box on the front of the carry all, facing the rear of the tractor. Why I mounted it there...

A. - I didn't want to use up space on the back part of the 3 point carry all.

B. - I wanted access to it, but not have it in the way.

Overall, the position worked good EXCEPT, make sure you give yourself plenty of clearance for the I Match center hook to connect and disconnect it. My tool box is mounted about 4" too high. You really need to try this with your tractor to determine the best place for the tool box mounting.

I can reach the box standing next to the side of the I match.

I can get items in and out easily. Yet the tool box isn't in the way.

Would I mount it differently? No, but I would have a box for cutters, pliers, razor knife, etc which is what this tool box is used for.

Then I would mount a Steel .50 caliber ammo can or something similar for putting in hooks, chain connectors, clevises, etc. You can even mount the steel ammo box on the I match hitch. Perhaps the new Ken's bolt on hooks ROPS brackets would fit the top of the I Match for securing a steel ammo can there for carrying heavy items. It is rectangular in size, I just haven't measured it.

You need to make room on the carry all for commonly used items and then keep the other items out of the way, yet available. You do need some way to carry the tie down devices, whether they are flexible tie downs ,etc. My present system isn't organized as it should be, but its used everyday with the tractor. The two 5 gallon buckets are full of concrete for ballast. I haven't weighed them, but they are darn heavy.

In the winter, they are replaced with buckets carrying snow melt material. Or, I have just added the buckets of snow melt behind the buckets of concrete for ballast. I also carry bags of snow melt which are 50 pounds each . I have added as much as 650 pounds on the carry all and it weighs about 200 pounds "empty" with the frame, tool box, I Match hitch, etc. Add in the two 5 gallon buckets of concrete and the carry all must weigh about 400 pounds without any additional load added to it.

I add suitcase weights as needed and Ideally, I should have added a bracket to hang them on the front side of the carry all. Load them on before attaching would certainly be easier than after the carry all is on the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You mean like the piece I plug into the top of my rear weight bracket to hold my snow blower.:mocking:

Got the idea from a guy in the mitten.:good2:
Sounds like the guy must really be sharp. Probably good looking as well......and hung, his snow blower ....off the rear of the tractor.:laugh:...

I thought of you today when I was looking at my small old 2 stroke Toro snow blower when I was in the barn. I need to find another small one of those two stroke snow blowers as they are so light. Last fall, I saw several for sale for $100 to $150. I should have given them a look. This fall, I am going to pick one or two of them up as they are very handy to have on the tractor for sidewalks even steps, because you can hang on to the handle and the blower and "sweep" the steps with them. Little Torq monsters when run on Premium Fuel without corn in it.

I really wish that mouse hadn't built the nest inside the shroud of my little Two Stroke TORO 2 stroke as that was the handiest snowblower. I replaced it with a very nice Honda 4 stroke unit, but the Honda weighs 104 pounds and its not nearly as "flexible to use." I never weighed the Toro 2 stroke blower, but I would be surprised if it weighs 40 pounds.......as you know......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Someone had made a rack that could be fitting into a trailer, do not remember the size of the trailer. I do remember it was a metal (JD, agi-fab, or other). But it had weed whip, hedge trimmer, power cords, ladder, blower, different buckets for smaller hand tools.
I have looked at several of these racks. Some are very nice and incorporate some great ideas......

When I was in the trailer business, I put together some landscape open trailers for various customers. Using them on a trailer is a real test to its durability as the trailers get bounced and banged around and many of the landscapers are really hard on the equipment.

Here is one company who's products I have used and like. They are well designed and they work. They aren't cheap, but nothing of quality usually is........

I use several of their mounts in my garage and storage barn, for the back pack blowers, etc.

Jungle Jim's Commercial Lawn Accessory Products
 

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Okay, guys. Here's one of mine. I converted this dump trailer:


Into this, winch operated with self unlatching tail gate:


I've had it totally full of dirt and it dumped just fine. Can dump 2 loads in one pile! Winch is remote control, too. Sorry it's Blue!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, guys. Here's one of mine. I converted this dump trailer:


Into this, winch operated with self unlatching tail gate:


I've had it totally full of dirt and it dumped just fine. Can dump 2 loads in one pile! Winch is remote control, too.
Great idea. Those little 12 volt winches are handy for many tasks, and they are very reasonably priced now too...........:good2:

I also like how you reinforced the trailer to handle the load. How did you build the tail gate latches and what do they look like from the rear? Also where did you get the lift mechanism under the trailer as it seems to be just the right size?

It's amazing how heavy those trailers / carts can be when loaded with dirt. I remember the first time I loaded my JD #10 cart with dirt and the only way to dump it was to bungee tie the release lever "open" and then back up and stop quickly.

Well Done:bigthumb:
 

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Great idea. Those little 12 volt winches are handy for many tasks, and they are very reasonably priced now too...........:good2:

I also like how you reinforced the trailer to handle the load. How did you build the tail gate latches and what do they look like from the rear? Also where did you get the lift mechanism under the trailer as it seems to be just the right size?

It's amazing how heavy those trailers / carts can be when loaded with dirt. I remember the first time I loaded my JD #10 cart with dirt and the only way to dump it was to bungee tie the release lever "open" and then back up and stop quickly.

Well Done:bigthumb:
I made the lift mechanism. Took a lot of thought and 'adjusting' to get it to work right.


The latches were lots of fun. Been a while since I did this, so trying to remember. I mounted the latches to the side of the trailer. Since the tail gate goes down when it's in dump mode, it unlatches within just a few degrees. The top hinges for the tail gate are forward about 3-4", Like the tailgate on a dump truck. The winch is a 3000# unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
KennyP,

The pictures now make clear just how much of the total cart / trailer was custom fabricated verses modification. Great job...:good2:

:hi:

Looks like the box itself is about all that's left largely unchanged from the original cart (other than the rear latches, etc.)

And maybe the wheels......

Thanks for posting the pictures. The photo's help me understand the workings of the lift system much better. The way its finished and painted, at first glance of the original pictures, I thought it was a electric actuator of some type......Now, I see exactly how you built it. I was trying to figure out when I saw the first photos how you were using the winch and an actuator.

I am sure this will stimulate some ideas among members.. Thanks again for posting the photos.......



In fact, I can hear Herminator's gears turning all the way over where I live, which is a good 100 plus miles east of his location.......:laugh::lol:

I am hoping Herminator posts some pictures of his creations over the years.......He is a really talented fabricator as well and does a nice job.

I am more of a "point and describe" person and rely on those with actual skill to do the fabrication for me and build the items correctly..........:dunno:
 

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Great idea. Those little 12 volt winches are handy for many tasks, and they are very reasonably priced now too...........:good2:

I also like how you reinforced the trailer to handle the load. How did you build the tail gate latches and what do they look like from the rear? Also where did you get the lift mechanism under the trailer as it seems to be just the right size?

It's amazing how heavy those trailers / carts can be when loaded with dirt. I remember the first time I loaded my JD #10 cart with dirt and the only way to dump it was to bungee tie the release lever "open" and then back up and stop quickly.

Well Done:bigthumb:
The average cubic yard of dirt is 1.3 to 1.7 tons dry. A lot of people get complacent when it comes to how heavy dirt is.
Nice job Kenny. Well built and innovative. Looks like it’ll hold up to anything you throw in it :munch:
 
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