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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all:

John Deere 2720 is just one big heavy duty machine. I don't even know where to begin. I love it and my favorite machine color is still GREEN. Neighbors and friends were amazed by it heavy duty everything and how well built this machine is.

It was so pretty off the truck I did not have the heart to get it dirty right away. 3 days later, I was on my 2720 Dirty Deere. Here are some pictures from day 1 where my buddy Pete brought the baby home.



Likes :clap::clap::clap::clap:

Overall everything is just over built. Everything is very tight. Feels like a big big tractor. 32 HP diesel is super powerful and
large turf tires make for a nice ride Front hood is designed better than 2210. 2720 has a lower hood front and it appears the grass clippings stay out of the engine. This may have to do with the power flow but even so, inside radiator screen seemed to stay cleaner than 2210. I also liked the placement of the steering hydraulic piston on the 2720 which is placed higher out of grass range which was a problem on the 2210. The 2210 hydraulic steering piston was lower to the ground and tended to catch grass clippings all over it. In my case, it eventually caused a hydraulic drip.
200 CX Loader is heavy duty. Remarkably easy to take the loader on or off. 2 minutes tops. Loader arms locking mechanism locks and releases with ease. 60 inch bucket is heavy duty though it takes a bit of getting used to judging in tight quarters compare to 2210 49 inch bucket. Hydraulics are much faster.
Power flow is more powerful than I would have believed. Power flow attachment does sit out a bit farther on the mower deck making the machine much wider than I thought. Well designed. Chute goes on / off easily. The bagger seals tight so grass catchings and dirt stays in bagger. Very heavy duty. Power assist arm on bagger release door. Easy quick release of bagger frame. See dis-like on bagger drawbar mounting.
Hydaulic power diverter easily changes between loader curl function and mower raise / lower functions. Location though could be placed better.
62D mower deck adjusts much easier with mechanical locking height knob than 2210 rotary knob did with mechanical 3 point raise lower.. Mower deck height goes much higher than 2210 did and when locked in the highest position, deck is stable enough to stand on and it stays up high even when the hydraulic lift relaxes.
Mower deck drive on plate doubles as a step up and does not flex much when even a heavy duty guy like me is getting on and off the machine.
All linkage moves easily.

Dis-like

Power flow bagger is not imatch compatible. Bagger does not use the 3 point hitch but rather a draw bar hitch extension which is stabilized by the middle stabilizer part of the 3 point hitch. Non-sense. Will post pictures soon as I am sure folks have questions like I did. I was not happy this was not imatch compatible but ecstatic I could get a power flow. I originally was close to a 3520 with a cab but declined because a bagger was important to the Mrs. You cannot use Imatch or a like quick hitch device when bagger is attached to tractor. You have to completely remove bagger setup and it is heavy. Almost impossible for one guy to lift off or put on bagger by yourself without catching a finger somewhere in the process. This is not well thought through by Deere and I know this will change once Deere starts to hear from end users like me who know they dropped the ball. This power flow bagger attachment wasn't cheap.
Rear tire air valve live on the nside of rim. If you reverse the tire & rims so the valve sits outboard, the wheels move closer to the chassis. I know..very minor.
Narrow space for big guys like me in driver seat. Steering wheel felt much more crowded while seated in 2720 compared to the spacious 2210. 2720 steering wheel is fixed and not adjustable. I find myself constantly bumping high low speed gear lever when gear lever is left in neutral or low while dis-mounting the tractor as I have to turn and go butt off first while dis-mounting. Not a lot of room to turn either once you are seated. I considered a cab for this machine but think it would be to narrow as set up.
2720 motor idle sound like a big diesel but a bit noisier than the 2210 in idle. RPM seemed much higher. Maybe throttle needs adjustment?
ROPS is way tall (about 7' 6") and if you forget to lower ROPS going into a 7 foot garage door, you will be on your way to a 8 foot garage door in your new garage. The 2720 and the pinned ROPS will not be stopped by a 2 X 10 header.

Overall I give the 2720 grade of A-. I just hope it is as reliable as the 2210 and who can really complain about 7 trouble free years. Only lube, oil change and scheduled maintenance.

Joe
 

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Great review Joe:good2:
 

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Yup, Good job on the review and comparison. :good2: Thank you very much for the write-up, greatly appreciated. You'll have to up date it after you get some tractor time.
 

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Good write up. Good luck with your new tractor.
 

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Congratulations Joe.

What happened to the pictures? They aren't visible.

I can relate to your comments about the cramped cockpit,tricky range shift lever, and the dodgy mounting system of the bagger. I had the bagger for my 2305 and learned to prefer mulching after one season of use. The bagger got used only for leaves thereafter and was never a good solution since it only holds 14 bushels or so. It would fill up in about 40 ft of mowing leaves at times. At least on the 2X20 tractors, there is a removable drawbar that you can leave bolted to the bagger frame and just slide it in and out as needed. The 2305 didn't have that so it was a lie-on-the-floor-and-bot-it-on-and-off-each-time enterprise. Shame, I recently sold that bagging system for half of new cost to a really happy guy from NH.

Regarding the range shift lever, I'm going to be shortening the one on my 2520 when I get a chance. It looks like it won't be too bad since it is just held on by a roll pin and there are a consistent number of bends running down the shaft such that I can simply cut out one section, weld it back together, and voila!, no more torn shorts or stalled engine.

What drove you to choose the 2720? I think that I should have picked the 2720 over the 2520 because the 2520 doesn't seem to have the power to pull itself uphill very well in high range. At least that has been my experience (loader and backhoe attached, paved drive). I always read that the only purpose a 2720 over the 2520 was higher PTO output, but now I wonder if it would be better for this issue as well.

Anyway, enjoy!
 

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Nice setup! I love the PowerFlow unit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Someone wrote this and I appologize but this newbie suspects he erased the original entry. UGGGG. I think the pictures also worked this time. I think this is the post I deleted. I don't know what I did. :crazy:
What else can go wrong??? :banghead:


Well, at least a mistake here is not the same kind as forgetting to put the ROPS down before backing into the garage :hornets:

Congratulations Joe.

What happened to the pictures? They aren't visible.

I can relate to your comments about the cramped cockpit,tricky range shift lever, and the dodgy mounting system of the bagger. I had the bagger for my 2305 and learned to prefer mulching after one season of use. The bagger got used only for leaves thereafter and was never a good solution since it only holds 14 bushels or so. It would fill up in about 40 ft of mowing leaves at times. At least on the 2X20 tractors, there is a removable drawbar that you can leave bolted to the bagger frame and just slide it in and out as needed. The 2305 didn't have that so it was a lie-on-the-floor-and-bot-it-on-and-off-each-time enterprise. Shame, I recently sold that bagging system for half of new cost to a really happy guy from NH.

Regarding the range shift lever, I'm going to be shortening the one on my 2520 when I get a chance. It looks like it won't be too bad since it is just held on by a roll pin and there are a consistent number of bends running down the shaft such that I can simply cut out one section, weld it back together, and voila!, no more torn shorts or stalled engine.

What drove you to choose the 2720? I think that I should have picked the 2720 over the 2520 because the 2520 doesn't seem to have the power to pull itself uphill very well in high range. At least that has been my experience (loader and backhoe attached, paved drive). I always read that the only purpose a 2720 over the 2520 was higher PTO output, but now I wonder if it would be better for this issue as well.

Anyway, enjoy!

Thanks for the well wishes,

Not sure about what happened to the pictures. Newbie thing.

I was originally looking at a 3520 with a cab and settled back down to reality with the 2720. I still want a cab especially after last winter in the northeast. When I got down to the nitty gritty in negotiating, the 3520 total cost was way over my budget. The selection & availability of the 2720 turned out to be a big issue with a 6 week total delievery date wait instead of the 3 - 4 months for the other 2XX0 machine line. The 6 weeks hold up was really due to the mower deck availability. The MMM was the last piece to arrive at the dealer and the first thing that needed to be installed & mounted on the machine. The 2720 was there in 2 weeks a few days ahead of scheduled. Remainder of the 4 weeks spent impatiently waiting as I drove past the dealer to & fro from work looking at my machine in the window. Sometimes I think they delay things on purpose just for the marketing value of having your decked out machine all shinny and spiffy, luring all those others driving by in who are also attracted to the color green.

FYI - JD 3520 - no power flow or bagger available despite literature saying otherwise .....dis-continued from what my dealer told me.

I am looking at the Jodalle Perry cab but have to wait for the savings to settle down a bit from the 2720 big wave. I need to study things over carefully as the cab would make the tractor even that much more cramped. Over $5000 for it installed makes it a steep want.

The power flow bagger was important to the Mrs. whose complaint was grass cuttungs belongs outside in the garden mulch pile and not on the garage or kitchen floor. That made it important to me to get the power flow attachements. The dogs will appreciate fewer ticks who get sucked away to the mulch pile. I had a bagger on a previous JD160 and when I went to the 2210 with no bagger, we noticed the tick population increased significantly and we found a huge difference with more ticks found on the dogs and grandkids. About 100 feet of grass perimeter between the house & woods is enough to keep the creepy crawlers sucked away. Just part of norhteast country living.

The power flow makes the tractor WIDE. The 62D MMM easily adds another 10 inches of width.

Power was a big issue as the 2210 mower bogged down the motor in heavy grass at times. I wanted to make sure I wasn't underpowered for my use and I figure the 2720 - 1.4 GPH was just a little more than the 1.1 GPH on the 2210 that I was comfortable with. JD 3520 estimate was 2.5 GPH. 2720 is over powered compared to the 2210 and there if you need it.

I was glad to hear your comments though on the 3 point hitch and power flow. I found I had to stop 18 times to empty the bags for the first mowing. Yesterday was the second cutting with the 2720 and this time emptied the bagger 5 times. The grass pile was quite impressive when mowing was complete and now working towards GREEN Recycling.... new top soil for the garden.

Now I think Green everytime I recyclle...... to include loading the recycle bin in the bucket up to the street cornerevery other Thursday

I am looking at what I can do to modify the bagger so I can connect it directly to the 3 point hitch that would work with a 3 point quick connect hitch setup like an Imatch.

Let me know how the H/N/L shifter trim goes. That looks to be over my head as there are sure a lot of bends in that shifter iron.

Thanks

Joe
 

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Hi Joe.......I have a 2520, which is identical to the 2720 except for the engine, and I found when I was originally looking at tractors, that I was not at all comfortable with the seating position. In my opinion the seat wouldn't go back far enough and consequently I felt very cramped. Feeling that cramped would have been a deal breaker for me, and I wouldn't have bought the thing. I noted this to my dealer, and he said that if I bought the tractor, that they would find a way to adjust the seat bracket where I would be comfortable.

Anyway, before I took delivery, I read on another forum, that others had solved the problem by cutting the first "ring" off the rubber seat bumper under the actual seat itself. I told my dealer about this, and they actually cut it off for me before I got the machine. What an amazing difference!! Feels like a completely different tractor. I wouldn't have thought it would make such a difference but it does. With the ring cut off, your not pushed forward as much, so it ends up giving you a lot more leg and foot room. Even my dealer was surprised at the difference it made.

Worked great or me.......try it, if you don't find it helps, a couple of rubber seat supports is all you have to replace.

REV
 

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Anyway, before I took delivery, I read on another forum, that others had solved the problem by cutting the first "ring" off the rubber seat bumper under the actual seat itself. I told my dealer about this, and they actually cut it off for me before I got the machine. What an amazing difference!! Feels like a completely different tractor. I wouldn't have thought it would make such a difference but it does. With the ring cut off, your not pushed forward as much, so it ends up giving you a lot more leg and foot room. Even my dealer was surprised at the difference it made.

Worked great or me.......try it, if you don't find it helps, a couple of rubber seat supports is all you have to replace.

REV
Great tip Rev...

If you have time I would appreciate a little write-up on that mod and maybe a picture or two in a new thread-it surely will help others in the future.:good2:
 

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Averagejoe,

Very nice write up and nice pics. I would have to agree with your cramped cockpit.

Ensoll,

Jumping from the 2320 to the 2520 I notice the same as you in that hydraulics are much improved.

For my observation is that mine seems to have very good power when compared to the 2320. I have some good grades when I mow and with the 72" deck from a dead stop I only loose a couple hundred rpm's. Towing around 2 yards of black dirt on my trailer did not seems to bother it but did make it work. This is where a three range hydro would be nice as high is to high at times and low is to slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you mean cut the BUTT BUMPER???? Sounds like surgery.

Hi Rev,

Appreciate the info and was glad to see I wasn't the only one who felt it was a little cramped in the driver seat. I found this especially true as my 2210 was spacious with plenty of gut room. I'm glad this fix worked for you. I took a look at the seat bumpers on the 2720 and I understand what you are saying. I guess I would ask when you had them cut the first ring off did you find the seat was then out of level and the back of the seat was now downhill? When I studied it it would not appear to make sense at first that a little 7/8's of an inch would make any difference. Are you sure they did not modify the seat mounting plate, bolt stop position or anything like that.

I'm kind of surprised there aren't extra holes for seat mounting so that you could just adjust the seat position range by moving the seat mounting bolts position and inch or 2 in either direction. There seems to be plenty of room to move things back for the taller & bigger guys who want a little more leg and gut room that would not affect anything else.

I'm going to study it a little more before the utility knife comes out for seat surgery. Like the old saying goes....Measure 7 times...cut once. :hornets:

Take care

Joe
 

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Butt Bumper surgery

Just got a used 2720 and like many things about it. However, the cockpit is cramped and I had to wiggle in my seat to operate the FEL joystick-especially in rollback. Also hard to get in and out. I am 6'1" and about 300 lbs. Started to think about reselling it. Then I read this idea about the seat bumper rings and to try the idea out without surgery, I just took them out. What a difference!!! Much more spacious and much easier to get in and out of and much less interference with the FEL joystick. They are still out. Also has a side benefit that I was always feeling like I was being tilted forward and had to work to stay in the seat. Now I just sit back and am comfortable. Thanks for the idea!
 

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Just got a used 2720 and like many things about it. However, the cockpit is cramped and I had to wiggle in my seat to operate the FEL joystick-especially in rollback. Also hard to get in and out. I am 6'1" and about 300 lbs. Started to think about reselling it. Then I read this idea about the seat bumper rings and to try the idea out without surgery, I just took them out. What a difference!!! Much more spacious and much easier to get in and out of and much less interference with the FEL joystick. They are still out. Also has a side benefit that I was always feeling like I was being tilted forward and had to work to stay in the seat. Now I just sit back and am comfortable. Thanks for the idea!
FritzC; I have 2520, same as yours, only a less hp, I too cut one ring off of mine, but after the other week I think i'll try taking another ring off. my other complaint is having to lean my leg in to roll the bucket back. but I got a parts diagram on how to maybe adjust the linkage to help that now. I have 850 hrs on mine and love it yet. big jim
 

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I concur on the crappy placement of the HI/LOW lever. I've stabbed myself in the thigh many times.
 
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I concur on the crappy placement of the HI/LOW lever. I've stabbed myself in the thigh many times.
I had mine catch in the pant leg of my shorts and I almost fell off the tractor head first. While I didn't get injured my H-N-L lever must be bent slightly because the lever does not line up exactly with the markings.

There are several levers on the 2720 that could be improved. The 4WD engagement lever is another one. The manual tells you NOT to engage with your foot yet it is located next to your left heel and cannot be easily reached with your hand else you off-load the seat and the engine shuts off. I always try to engage lightly with my foot but would feel better if it was raised higher so as to be easier to reach.
 
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The rear diff lock needs to be better as well. My boots are too big to easily get with my heel. For a lot of jobs I don't want to be in 4wd but need a bit of extra traction so the rear diff lock is perfect for this.

On my old front deck mower it had a great big button on the floor right next to where my left foot would rest. Super is easy to mash down when needed without even looking.
 
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[QUOTE=jgayman;239415]I had mine catch in the pant leg of my shorts and I almost fell off the tractor head first. While I didn't get injured my H-N-L lever must be bent slightly because the lever does not line up exactly with the markings.

There are several levers on the 2720 that could be improved. The 4WD engagement lever is another one. The manual tells you NOT to engage with your foot yet it is located next to your left heel and cannot be easily reached with your hand else you off-load the seat and the engine shuts off. I always try to engage lightly with my foot but would feel better if it was raised higher so as to be easier to reach.[/QUOTE]

jgayman; since putting the step on, I back down off the tractor and don't catch near as many things on the way down. now for the 50 I can't say that cause the wife spent one evening sewing a couple buttons back on my pants because of hydraulic lever getting caught in supenders on the way off, something had to give as I couldn't get stopped to avoid it. she wasn't to bent out of shape about it. big jim
 

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jgayman; since putting the step on, I back down off the tractor and don't catch near as many things on the way down. now for the 50 I can't say that cause the wife spent one evening sewing a couple buttons back on my pants because of hydraulic lever getting caught in supenders on the way off, something had to give as I couldn't get stopped to avoid it. she wasn't to bent out of shape about it. big jim
Same here!! My near-header was prior to the installation of my step. Since installing the step and "backing down off" the tractor I have not had anymore close calls.
 
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