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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to start my new (9.7 Eng Hr) 2032R today and it did not start.

The tractor sits in my all metal barn with the doors closed (not exposed to elements, but no HVAC in the part of the barn where it is parked).
I parked it about 2 weeks ago and we have had a fair amount of rain almost every day since then. (No rain yesterday and clear and sunny today)
SO a good day to get some seat time (mowing the yards)

(siting in the seat, made sure transmission in N) Took key from off to on, wait until display resets, go to start, hear 1 click, no starting sounds,
release key, get on display ECU 1485.02.

I turn the key off wait a few seconds, turn key on - display goes thru the usual turn on all lights and cause gauges to sweep to full and back, no codes on the display. Try to start and get the same code.

I checked the battery voltage at the battery terminals - 12.2V (key off), 11.8 (key in run) (went to service manual)

Following page numbers are the page listed on the bottom uf the "page" in the electronic version of the service manual)
Look up the ECU in the service manual pg 211-ECU-4 (sheet 432)

DTC Number DTC Name Code Caused by Control Unit Address Component Testing
ECU 1485.02 ECU Main Relay Invalid The ECU has an internal feedback error from the main ECU relay NA CAN System Diagnosis

I go to:
CAN System Diagnosis on pg 212-45-1 (sheet 461)
Step 1 ICC Operational Check
1. Turn key on (engine off)
2. ICC Powers up and performs self check of gauges and indicator lights
3. Perform Recall, Record and clear codes
4. Drive the vehicle and operate hitch
5. Recall codes and check for return of any control unit missing codes
(If OK after line 4) go to Step 2, NOT OK: ICC does not function. Perform control unit test on the ICC)
Step 2 ECU Operational Test (similar to Step 1 (key on (engine off) Perform Recall, Record and clear codes, drive vehicle, recall codes, etc)
Step 3 (VCU Operational checks is similar to step 1&2)
Step 4 CAN Voltage Check (Perform CAN Network Voltage Checks) (requires a DVM & a way to get a voltmeter probe on pins at the Service advisor outlet plug)(pg 240D-50-25,26)
(sheet 859-860) The plug is under the instrument cluster on the right hand side
After reading this I decide to wait until tomorrow and call my Dealer.
 

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That battery voltage seems pretty low - I would expect at least 12.5 and closer to 13 volts on a fully charged healthy battery.

Did you try and jump start it and see if it fires - if it does you may have gotten a faulty battery or maybe just not enough high rpm use yet to fully charge it

ECU 001485.02 - ECU Main Relay Invalid
The ECU has an internal feedback error from the main ECU relay.

Probable cause: insufficient voltage, defective battery.

This guy had same issue - and under load test battery was bad - 4066R died - Page 5 that is a long thread, quite a bit of ribbing to get there, but it also seemed to happen on a weekend.

Your tractor is new so i would of course let the dealer handle it but a jump start will probably get you going if you really need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hipplewm

Considering the way the tractor is parked in the barn there is no way to get any vehicle next to it to do a jump. Maybe if I find my improvised battery charger I could let it charge overnight.
But since it is has only been home since 8-22-18 see this thread (New 2032r - Page 3). I will just let the dealer take care of it. I do NOT want to fight battery issues on a new machine.
Especially since it is NOW after 6 pm here.

Thanks for the suggestion
 

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I checked the battery voltage at the battery terminals - 12.2V (key off), 11.8 (key in run) (went to service manual)
It sure sounds like it could be a battery issue. The one other measurement you could take is to measure the battery voltage when you turn the key to START. Additionally, you could turn on the headlights, worklights and flashers and measure the battery to similar more of a load.

11.8V with minimal load sure points to the battery.
 

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I had a similar issue just without codes on my 2038r. The small wire from the key where it plugged into the starter wasn’t solidly connected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

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It sure sounds like it could be a battery issue. The one other measurement you could take is to measure the battery voltage when you turn the key to START. Additionally, you could turn on the headlights, worklights and flashers and measure the battery to similar more of a load.

11.8V with minimal load sure points to the battery.



My 2025 wouldn't even light up the glow plugs when my battery was at 11.8V. Draw-down when turning the key brought it down to under 5V.
 

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I have had to jump my 2038R a half dozen or so times since I have owned her these 16 or so months with more than 280 operating hours.... It's a relatively small battery, but when I put a good charge on it, it seems to last longer..... If I do lots of start/stop and crank her a lot, it seems to drain the battery faster. I don't appear to get any fault codes when this happens....

Sincerely
 
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I have had to jump my 2038R a half dozen or so times since I have owned her these 16 or so months with more than 280 operating hours.... It's a relatively small battery, but when I put a good charge on it, it seems to last longer..... If I do lots of start/stop and crank her a lot, it seems to drain the battery faster. I don't appear to get any fault codes when this happens....
Hmmm... that is definitely not normal. My 2720 uses the same battery as your 2038R. It doesn't see much use during the summer as I don't mow with it. During the winter it is only used for snow removal. My garage is very small which means to do any work inside I must pull the 2720 out of the garage. That means lots of starts and stops. I go years and never have to jump start it.

You mentioned cranking it a lot. Do you have to crank a long time for the engine to start? My 2720 only cranks about 1.5 seconds before the engine starts.

Have you ever had the battery tested? I'm thinking you have a bad battery, charging system issue or else the tractor has something that is putting a parasitic drain on the battery.
 

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Hmmm... that is definitely not normal. My 2720 uses the same battery as your 2038R. It doesn't see much use during the summer as I don't mow with it. During the winter it is only used for snow removal. My garage is very small which means to do any work inside I must pull the 2720 out of the garage. That means lots of starts and stops. I go years and never have to jump start it.

You mentioned cranking it a lot. Do you have to crank a long time for the engine to start? My 2720 only cranks about 1.5 seconds before the engine starts.

Have you ever had the battery tested? I'm thinking you have a bad battery, charging system issue or else the tractor has something that is putting a parasitic drain on the battery.



Honestly, my battery died abruptly.

Tried to start it one day, barely turned over. This was a 70F degree day. I let it idle high, hoping to charge the battery.

A couple days later, I wasn't even getting the starter to click, it was flat dead.
 

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Hmmm... that is definitely not normal. My 2720 uses the same battery as your 2038R. It doesn't see much use during the summer as I don't mow with it. During the winter it is only used for snow removal. My garage is very small which means to do any work inside I must pull the 2720 out of the garage. That means lots of starts and stops. I go years and never have to jump start it.

You mentioned cranking it a lot. Do you have to crank a long time for the engine to start? My 2720 only cranks about 1.5 seconds before the engine starts.

Have you ever had the battery tested? I'm thinking you have a bad battery, charging system issue or else the tractor has something that is putting a parasitic drain on the battery.
She starts up just about as fast as I turn the key to the crank position. No prolonged cranking is necessary under normal starting conditions.....and I didn't mean to imply there was prolonged cranking occurring.... I have checked/load-tested the battery and she is good with 12.9V static and it sustains a load with relatively low voltage drop. Alternator is charging at nearly 14VDC. I am puzzled by this also....

Sincerely
 

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She starts up just about as fast as I turn the key to the crank position. No prolonged cranking is necessary under normal starting conditions.....and I didn't mean to imply there was prolonged cranking occurring.... I have checked/load-tested the battery and she is good with 12.9V static and it sustains a load with relatively low voltage drop. Alternator is charging at nearly 14VDC. I am puzzled by this also....

Sincerely
That's sounding even more like a parasitic current draw while parked.
 

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That's sounding even more like a parasitic current draw while parked.
I forgot to mention that I also previously checked for parasitic current draw using my amp meter, and there is less than a 20 milliamp draw on the battery..... :-(

Sincerely
 

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I keep this in my truck. Takes up no room at all. Also charges my phones and other devices.

Jump Starter by Spacekey - 800A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 6.5L Gas or 5.5L Diesel), Auto Battery Booster, Phone Charger, Power Pack with Built-in Dual Output, and LED Flashlight Amazon.com: Jump Starter by Spacekey - 800A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 6.5L Gas or 5.5L Diesel), Auto Battery Booster, Phone Charger, Power Pack with Built-in Dual Output, and LED Flashlight: Automotive
 

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I keep this in my truck. Takes up no room at all. Also charges my phones and other devices.

Jump Starter by Spacekey - 800A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 6.5L Gas or 5.5L Diesel), Auto Battery Booster, Phone Charger, Power Pack with Built-in Dual Output, and LED Flashlight Amazon.com: Jump Starter by Spacekey - 800A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 6.5L Gas or 5.5L Diesel), Auto Battery Booster, Phone Charger, Power Pack with Built-in Dual Output, and LED Flashlight: Automotive
Have you had the opportunity to jump many vehicles or tractors with it?
 
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I forgot to mention that I also previously checked for parasitic current draw using my amp meter, and there is less than a 20 milliamp draw on the battery..... :-(

Sincerely
You might have a bad battery then. I mean seriously, unless you are leaving the headlights or ignition turned on, having to jump start a new tractor 6 or so times in less than 18 months is absolutely not normal and something is definitely wrong. I'd be inclined to have it checked out while its still under warranty.
 

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You might have a bad battery then. I mean seriously, unless you are leaving the headlights or ignition turned on, having to jump start a new tractor 6 or so times in less than 18 months is absolutely not normal and something is definitely wrong. I'd be inclined to have it checked out while its still under warranty.
I agree. The problem has certainly been elusive given all the "normal" type troubleshooting I have performed..... "leave the headlights on"....lol...

Sincerely
 

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Have you had the opportunity to jump many vehicles or tractors with it?
Absolutely. This thing will start a large diesel truck. And the batteries are lithium ion. I charge it maybe twice a year.
 
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