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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just purchased a 60 acre estate that is 90% wooded timber, and has a two streams cuting through it with a few food plots, and a nice low wet area.
See myself doing a lot of brush hogging trails..putting in/maintaining food plots.
clearing timber/blowdowns & chipping up unusable stuff. snow removal in winter.
and any other miscellaneous jobs that might arise. Don't really expect to use it to finish mow.

Would like to know what the opinions are?

Regards,
T
 

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Welcome to DT:thumbup1gif:

I think with that much property you should be looking at a 3720 or even a 4x20 sized machine,
 

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Depending on how heavily wooded that 54-acres is; you might get by fine with the rigs you're looking at since you'll probably not be in the trees all that often; but I agree with Kenny that a higher HP tractor may be better suited for your needs.

Also, you mention snow. Since you're profile makes no mention where in snow country you are; you may want to seriously look into a cabbed tractor for snow removal duties. Not knowing how long your driveway is; you could be in for major discomfort removing snow on an open station tractor.

Pictures would help everyone give you usable advice.

Welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to DT:thumbup1gif:

I think with that much property you should be looking at a 3720 or even a 4x20 sized machine,
Yeah thats why the higher HP 3038e is in play here. However, I do have a lot of tight areas I will need to get into sans the larger "breed"of machine your referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Depending on how heavily wooded that 54-acres is; you might get by fine with the rigs you're looking at since you'll probably not be in the trees all that often; but I agree with Kenny that a higher HP tractor may be better suited for your needs.

Also, you mention snow. Since you're profile makes no mention where in snow country you are; you may want to seriously look into a cabbed tractor for snow removal duties. Not knowing how long your driveway is; you could be in for major discomfort removing snow on an open station tractor.

Pictures would help everyone give you usable advice.

Welcome!
Problem is there is a lot of timber I will need to get into, and around so it would be tough to think I can go any larger. That's why the 3038 looked good with the higher HP, but I was wondering if the lack of the second frontal PTO would hinder my options. I could see the possibility needing a back hoe.
I don't have any pics available yet, but I do have a long driveway to clear. We get the occasional blizzard, but snowfall is moderate at best with the heavier stuff being 6 inches a snowfall average...Blower, or rear mounted blade?
 

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I now see you are in Michigan. I suspect you get way more snow than I do; but the few times I've used my loader to get rid of the white crap I was miserable on my open station unit.

Since we can dream how to spend your money, I suggest you look into a 3x20 series cabbed tractor. From what others have posted about snow removal, the money is no object choice generally is a front mounted blower. Some like a 3PH blower because they're cheaper; but remember one needs a neck like a bird (180-degree rotation) to drive in reverse to clear snow. Others like a rear blade.

The only gripe I've read about cabbed tractors in the trees is low hung branches.

I have no idea what your age is; but I'm going to suggest you factor that into your purchasing equation. What may be fun in one's youth quickly becomes an unpleasant chore later in life.

If Deere offered a cab in the states when I bought mine in 2001, I would have gotten it when I ordered the tractor. Now trading Bambi in for a cabbed rig is not in the cards.

By the way, do you pilot Airbus A330's?
 

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A330, You are about an hour and a half south of me. In 2006 I bought an open station 3720 to take care of my growing woods and my driveway. I have a 72" snowpush for the loader. In 2008 I sold the open station and bought a cabbed 3720. In 2010, I sold the 3720 and bought a cabbed 4520.

Cabbed tractors are not that bad in the woods. The branches slide off the glass the same way they would the ROPS. I am right on the bay so we get a good amount of snow and its very nice to have the protection in the winter, but I also like the protection from the dust, pollen, and bees I get in the summer. Not to mension the A/C.

My suggestion is to figure out the size tractor you think you need and step up one size.
 

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A330, You are about an hour and a half south of me. In 2006 I bought an open station 3720 to take care of my growing woods and my driveway. I have a 72" snowpush for the loader. In 2008 I sold the open station and bought a cabbed 3720. In 2010, I sold the 3720 and bought a cabbed 4520.

Cabbed tractors are not that bad in the woods. The branches slide off the glass the same way they would the ROPS. I am right on the bay so we get a good amount of snow and its very nice to have the protection in the winter, but I also like the protection from the dust, pollen, and bees I get in the summer. Not to mension the A/C.

My suggestion is to figure out the size tractor you think you need and step up one size.
I agree with Brian. In the case of your acreage, step it up one size. We did the same, MF 1523, to give our aging MF 35 a hand, then traded for a 1635.

Le$$on learned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I now see you are in Michigan. I suspect you get way more snow than I do; but the few times I've used my loader to get rid of the white crap I was miserable on my open station unit.

Since we can dream how to spend your money, I suggest you look into a 3x20 series cabbed tractor. From what others have posted about snow removal, the money is no object choice generally is a front mounted blower. Some like a 3PH blower because they're cheaper; but remember one needs a neck like a bird (180-degree rotation) to drive in reverse to clear snow. Others like a rear blade.

The only gripe I've read about cabbed tractors in the trees is low hung branches.

I have no idea what your age is; but I'm going to suggest you factor that into your purchasing equation. What may be fun in one's youth quickly becomes an unpleasant chore later in life.

If Deere offered a cab in the states when I bought mine in 2001, I would have gotten it when I ordered the tractor. Now trading Bambi in for a cabbed rig is not in the cards.

By the way, do you pilot Airbus A330's?
Thanx..I need to find out how much snowfall they get from a local? Age 53
Yes I fly the big Bus..You guys have me really thinking about the cab. However I see that you loose PTO RPMs/hp? with the cab option on the next step up for me witch would be a 3520. The other limiting factor is my detached garage. I have no idea what the height is for the cab? Not sure if I could get one in the darn garage? IE. clearance issues? Garage door is approximately 8 ft. in Height.

Again keep your thoughts coming!
 

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A 3520 cab will fit in an 8 foot door without issue.

You should not loose PTO HP or RPM with a cab tractor. AC might take up a couple, but its not in any ratings out there?
 

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A 3520 cab will fit in an 8 foot door without issue.

You should not loose PTO HP or RPM with a cab tractor. AC might take up a couple, but its not in any ratings out there?
Brian, When you go JD CUT w/cab, you do take a loss, as you have no choice on the trans, it it hydro only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A 3520 cab will fit in an 8 foot door without issue.

You should not loose PTO HP or RPM with a cab tractor. AC might take up a couple, but its not in any ratings out there?
That's good news Brian!..Do you know if the cab can be retro fitted after a few years, or does it have to come from the factory pre-equipped?

Thanks!
 

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Brian, When you go JD CUT w/cab, you do take a loss, as you have no choice on the trans, it it hydro only.
Gotcha, I never looked at it that way. I always looked at hydro hp and gear hp.

That's good news Brian!..Do you know if the cab can be retro fitted after a few years, or does it have to come from the factory pre-equipped?

Thanks!
No, Cab needs to be ordered from the factory. There are aftermarket cabs, but nothing at all like the factory cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Brian, When you go JD CUT w/cab, you do take a loss, as you have no choice on the trans, it it hydro only.
William that's what I was inferring to on that question. I thought it said on the JD website that if a cab were to be included in the package that you would have to go with the ehydro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Gotcha, I never looked at it that way. I always looked at hydro hp and gear hp.



No, Cab needs to be ordered from the factory. There are aftermarket cabs, but nothing at all like the factory cab.
Thanks great to know!...Pocket book needs to grow a little :)
 

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Thanks great to know!...Pocket book needs to grow a little :)
That is the smart way. IMHO, the aftermarket cabs, although nice, cannot match the factory cabs for fit, and also sound levels.

We have a MF 1635 with cab. Well worth it, if you need more time to save the extra $$.
 

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Thanx..I need to find out how much snowfall they get from a local? Age 53
Yes I fly the big Bus..You guys have me really thinking about the cab. However I see that you loose PTO RPMs/hp? with the cab option on the next step up for me witch would be a 3520. The other limiting factor is my detached garage. I have no idea what the height is for the cab? Not sure if I could get one in the darn garage? IE. clearance issues? Garage door is approximately 8 ft. in Height.

Again keep your thoughts coming!
You're a year younger than me, and should I ever get to buy another tractor, it WILL have a factory cab. Wind blown dust in my face in the summer and freezing my butt off in the winter is for 20-somethings who don't know any better. The Deere web site and/or brochure should give you dimensions. R1 tires will sit taller than R4's. I wouldn't get too overly concerned about loosing some PTO HP because of the e-hydro trans. If you plan on doing loader work and close quarter work in the woods, the hydro will be the next best thing on that rig after a cab.

That's good news Brian!..Do you know if the cab can be retro fitted after a few years, or does it have to come from the factory pre-equipped?

Thanks!
No, Cab needs to be ordered from the factory. There are aftermarket cabs, but nothing at all like the factory cab.
That is the smart way. IMHO, the aftermarket cabs, although nice, cannot match the factory cabs for fit, and also sound levels.

We have a MF 1635 with cab. Well worth it, if you need more time to save the extra $$.
Not with a factory cab, and although Jodale Perry and Laurin out of Canada make nice products, they are about as pricey as the factory option, and won't be as good.

Think of adding a cab to your tractor later as trying to add a second A380 style deck to the A330.

You will probably own your tractor far longer than your car.

Choose wisely.
 

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You're a year younger than me, and should I ever get to buy another tractor, it WILL have a factory cab. Wind blown dust in my face in the summer and freezing my butt off in the winter is for 20-somethings who don't know any better. The Deere web site and/or brochure should give you dimensions. R1 tires will sit taller than R4's. I wouldn't get too overly concerned about loosing some PTO HP because of the e-hydro trans. If you plan on doing loader work and close quarter work in the woods, the hydro will be the next best thing on that rig after a cab.







Not with a factory cab, and although Jodale Perry and Laurin out of Canada make nice products, they are about as pricey as the factory option, and won't be as good.

Think of adding a cab to your tractor later as trying to add a second A380 style deck to the A330.

You will probably own your tractor far longer than your car.

Choose wisely.
You are bang on!! JDP has a build and price on their website, buy the time you add all the options the factory cab has, you've matched the price!!

I am pretty sure our 1635 was $6k more with the cab, compared to a platform tractor, and worth every penny!! :)
 

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Will:

I used JDP's build and price feature too, and I gasped at the cost.
 
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