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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I have the motor stripped to the block. My assessment shows a #1 rod bearing failure (no bearing left unless the prior tech removed it). Other bearings intact, some showing wear but no other crank or rod damage. Camshaft was difficult to remove as it appears the camshaft bushings are damaged. Cyl 1 has some scuffs but not severe.
So the plan is:
1. Have the crank inspected and turned (rods) and polished (mains).
2. New cam bushings installed (JD only shows a single in the parts book with Qty1?) I ordered 4.
3. Hone block
4. New #1 piston and rings
Then reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Was that Copart North. I have bought a lot of Cars from them and their other location (mostly their South location). I feel after a Engine repair you will have a good tractor and save some money as well.
It was Copart in Tanner AL. I do a lot with Mazda's in the Atlanta area and buy a few parts cars locally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Hitting a wall here. On the parts diagram there is only one camshaft bushing. It appears that the other 3 are just machined surfaces in the block. If that's the case, the block is trashed and I have a very expensive, unserviceable pile of parts. This went from bad to worse quickly :-(. No remans available for the 3TNV80F-NCJT that I can find. I am trying to find out if the 3TNV76 short-block may be compatible or even swapping the whole motor. Argh...
 

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Oh man, I hope that is not the case. :(
I think the entire motor may be the best bet...if you can find one. Damn, that is sucky.
 
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I just looked in the tech manual. You're correct, the cam bearings are just machining of the block and not inserted bearings. It says to measure the dimensions of the bores and if outside the tolerance to replace the block. No talk of removing/inserting cam bearings. Of course there's talk of measuring the cam journals and comparison to the bores to determine if the cam needs replacing also.
 

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Do some research and see if a 3TNV88 will work for parts or whole. The one we have at work is headed for the scrap yard. It ran before we removed it. No idea what bent the rod on cylinder one. Could probably send it your way if you pay the freight
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Do some research and see if a 3TNV88 will work for parts or whole. The one we have at work is headed for the scrap yard. It ran before we removed it. No idea what bent the rod on cylinder one. Could probably send it your way if you pay the freight
I'll see what I can find out, thanks
 

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Just a quick search shows the 3TNV88 has a 88x90mm bore-stroke and the 3TNV80F-NCJT in the 1025 has an 80x84mm bore-stroke, so it looks like that wont work.

One idea.
If there is one cam bearing and the rest are basically part of the block, could you not have a machine shop bore the cam bearing surfaces to fit the other bearing? Or if the one bearing wont fit the cam journals, find bearings that will?
 

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Just a quick search shows the 3TNV88 has a 88x90mm bore-stroke and the 3TNV80F-NCJT in the 1025 has an 80x84mm bore-stroke, so it looks like that wont work.

One idea.
If there is one cam bearing and the rest are basically part of the block, could you not have a machine shop bore the cam bearing surfaces to fit the other bearing? Or if the one bearing wont fit the cam journals, find bearings that will?
This would certainly be worth a try before scrapping the block. I can't believe there are no cam bearings except for the ends of the cam, that definitely makes me think a little less of the Yanmar engine. I would expect that in a little throwaway engine, not in a diesel tractor engine...
I can tell you that machining the cam journals to accept a bearing is doable, years ago I worked in a Nascar engine shop and we machined the blocks to install needle bearings for the cams to ride on in the absence of pressurized oil...
 

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I would pursue how the insurance company communicated the condition of this machine to the auction company as they would have no reason to distort the truth of the engine being oil starved. For the auction company to list this as "starts and runs" or whatever description they used, if it implies the machine ran, there was most likely fraud involved.
If I was in your shoes I'd at least have a lawyer write a demand letter to try to ruffle the auction house's feathers or look into the viability of a small claims case (up to ~$7K in my state). Sometimes you can win a marginal case by being cheaper to write a small check to than eat the cost of defending the claim. I know these industrial auctions are as-is, but if they listed something as "starts and runs" and it can't, that seems to be pushing that line pretty hard. What is the point of including that information except to increase the price?

As for the engine, I'd be the guy buying a crate engine. Unless you can get the block machined really cheap it seems to me like you're signing up to do a ton of work with some risk to save a few grand versus getting a known-good engine with a warranty. "Pay the price and cry only once" as the saying goes.
 

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Did the OP say he thinks he got cheated or were his eyes wide open? I’m not sure he said.
 

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I'm astonished..... no cam bearings?
This could have been simple as truck to renew, and not that much dollars in the scheme of things.
Now it's junk. Yes, crafty machining could get around the obstacle but risk and cost escalate.
May be worth a phone call to an engine machining facility but boy has the pain in the rear factor risen.
 
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If it's a cast iron block, why couldn't a machine shop weld up the cam journals and resize them?
 

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Did the OP say he thinks he got cheated or were his eyes wide open? I’m not sure he said.
I took these as implying that he thought he was buying a tractor that could run with 30 days' warranty on it. I would have read this as being a tractor likely in need of repairs but not obviously one with a DOA engine. I hope he got it for a decent price for what it is, that's an expensive lesson.

I bought my first tractor this week, a 2019 1025R with loader with 205hrs from a Copart auction. It was listed as "Starts" and "Mechanical".
I did call Deere before I bought it and was told it had 30 days remains warranty. I took to the local dealer(Ag-Pro) and as it was sold and serviced by one of their locations, they had the history of the declined repair and insurance settlement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Did the OP say he thinks he got cheated or were his eyes wide open? I’m not sure he said.
Eyes wide open. I bought a unit described as starts and also mechanical. So I don't see that any one mislead or cheated me.

Lesson learned on my part that the Yanmar 3TNV80 does not include many (none) used engine options as it is very new AND it does not have serviceable camshaft bearing beyond the front one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Before the OP jumps off of a bridge an obvious source for Yanmar is Ebay. Below is a link to one I found for LESS THAN $1200 with a 30 day warranty/return from an engine shop. A complete overhaul kit for these engines is less than $500. It might be worth looking into, and there are many more out there as well.

Yanmar 3tnv80f Ncjt 1.267l Engine Complete Good Running A- ESN CH3U13D056005 for sale online | eBay

Yanmar 3TNV80 Engine Block Good Used B80-32-SS24 | eBay
Thanks, I did look at that engine but it doesn't sound any different than what I have. I have not been able to find an overhaul kit for this motor and I did call on the block for sale at RF and they could not share the condition of the camshaft journals, so it's an $800 (with shipping) pig-in-a-poke.
 

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Have you talked with a machine shop about fitting the front cam bearing into the mid positions yet?? That idea still has legs I feel.
 

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Around here all auctions are as-is where is, and they regularly repeat that it doesn’t matter if you test drove it before it crossed the block that it’s assumed to be non functional at the time of sale.

Only 1-2 higher end car auctions in Nh and mass will put any type guarantee on anything and that’s only on select excellent condition mid market vehicles.
 
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