New owner of 2520 with an "action" picture

3888 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Xelerator, Jan 25, 2012

Xelerator

Discussion Starter · Jan 22, 2012

Just wanted to post and introduce myself. I have been a lurker for some time now and in November of last year I purchased a brand new 2520. We have about 4 acres of lawn that I maintain and 6 horses therefore I was able to justify the purchase of a new or used 2520. I didn't want a 3000 series as I want to mow the lawn but I didn't want the 1000 series as I would also be doing a lot of loader work, therefore the 2520 seemed to fit my needs. I have really enjoyed the first 25 hours of use so far. I can't wait to actually move some real snow and mow some grass. The 2520 has replaced my Case 770 Agriking and my Deere 318.

I have attached a picture of the 2520 hauling around our Deere model 40 manure spreader. You will notice i have removed the "beater" off of the spreader, I have done this because I have also used this spreader to transport and unload horse manure to my neighbor therefore the conveyor is used to unload the material in a nice pile behind the spreader while using the spreaders conveyor, without the beater, unloading is easy, with the beater, well..... it would be a mess.

What I have shown in the picture is NOT recommend since the conveyor does move the material from ahead of the spreader's axle to the rear of the axle therefore unloading the tongue and ultimately unloading the rear axle. I need to find a way to keep a load on the rear axle (without filling the tires), like maybe adding weights to the three point but not to interfere with the PTO shaft, so the rear axle never looses traction while unloading the material. The other concern with this was overloading the rear hitch prior to unloading the material, as it is only rated for just over 500lbs. But anyway, I thought I would share this as the 2520 had no problems moving this load with the PTO engaged...it was FUN!

FYI, I am still waiting for my R4, I am using the turf tires until the R4s arrive.

Vehicle Agricultural machinery Farm Field Tractor

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1 - 14 of 14 Posts

Kennyd

· #2 · Jan 22, 2012

Wow, what a load of crap! :lol:

:gtt:

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Wyobuckaroo

· #3 · Jan 22, 2012

Welcome Xel, from a fellow "Jack Pine Savage" (NW Wisconsin here)

I have an older JD855 with loaded turfs. (anti freeze and WW fluid)

Don't sell turfs short, they will be a lot more useful than many people
like to give them credit for.

Good luck
Enjoy

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dieselshadow

· #4 · Jan 22, 2012

Glad you could join in and enjoy the forum. Thanks for the crappy pictures:hi:

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Xelerator

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 22, 2012

Wyobuckaroo said:
Welcome Xel, from a fellow "Jack Pine Savage" (NW Wisconsin here)

I have an older JD855 with loaded turfs. (anti freeze and WW fluid)

Don't sell turfs short, they will be a lot more useful than many people
like to give them credit for.

Good luck
Enjoy

I really need to try the R4s before I think they are the perfect solution but I can tell you the Turfs are not going to cut it for me, I can get zero traction when doing loader work moving horse manure (it gets a little slimy, sorry), and then when I am done with loader work, all the crap that gets caught between the treads on the turfs is flung everywhere, not ideal. I think the R4s will result in better traction during loader work and less flung debris when done.

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Brian

· #6 · Jan 22, 2012

I think you might have better luck with the turfs if you had some more weight on the rear tires. I am unsure if a Heavy hitch would help you since you need to hook up a trailer and use your PTO.

We have turfs on our 4110 and I like them better than the R-4's that I have had on my 3x20 machines. IMHO, the turfs seem to get more traction in snow and are better in mud. The R-4's that I have used in the clay type mud fill and will not unclog. The turfs fill, but when they flex, they seem to let some of the mud out and do not have inches of mud building up on them.

I have never worked in a light loamy material with either tire so I have little experience to share about your situation.

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glc

· #7 · Jan 22, 2012

Welcome to GTT Xelerator!!

Glad you're enjoying your 2520. You picked a pretty awesome machine as you will find out.
You didn't mention what you're using for a mower. If it's the 62D2 MMM, from personal experience,you will be amazed at how good a grass cutter that thing is too.:good2:

Greg

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tomd999

· #8 · Jan 23, 2012

Weight gain

Hiya,

You need to gain some weight on that 2520 before you have an incident working with the loader. The 200cx with a full bucket of ummmm, dirt on the 2520 will take the rear tires off the ground very easily and quickly. Not only that, you are putting undue stress on the front axle with no balast on the 3pt to unload it. (When you add weight to the 3pt, because it's rear of the rear axle, it acts to unload the front axle keeping it from seeing high loads)

My recommendation would be as follows:

Portland cement filled weight box with 3 pair wheel weights

or

the same portland filled weight box and loaded rear tires

You will find the 2x20 series chassis is far too light for the power they have. They break traction far before they run out of engine. My 2520 had loaded R4's, 1 set of rear weights and a portland filled weight box with 4-40Lb suitcase weights stacked on top when I used the loader and there were still times when I was caught lifting a rear wheel off the ground when I lifted pallets.

The 2520 will mow very well with loaded tires, mine did anyway.

My 2 cents,

Tom

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Xelerator

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 23, 2012

tomd999 said:
Hiya,

You need to gain some weight on that 2520 before you have an incident working with the loader. The 200cx with a full bucket of ummmm, dirt on the 2520 will take the rear tires off the ground very easily and quickly. Not only that, you are putting undue stress on the front axle with no balast on the 3pt to unload it. (When you add weight to the 3pt, because it's rear of the rear axle, it acts to unload the front axle keeping it from seeing high loads)

My recommendation would be as follows:

Portland cement filled weight box with 3 pair wheel weights

or

the same portland filled weight box and loaded rear tires

You will find the 2x20 series chassis is far too light for the power they have. They break traction far before they run out of engine. My 2520 had loaded R4's, 1 set of rear weights and a portland filled weight box with 4-40Lb suitcase weights stacked on top when I used the loader and there were still times when I was caught lifting a rear wheel off the ground when I lifted pallets.

The 2520 will mow very well with loaded tires, mine did anyway.

My 2 cents,

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for the input. I am totally aware of the loader capacity to weight ratio of the 2520 and that ballast is needed aft of the rear axle to unload the front axle during loader work. Like I said in my post, I need to find a way to add weight to the three point that will not interfere with the PTO. I have a weighted ballast box but because the box is so deep, it will interfere with the PTO shaft while its installed. Since I was not willing to hook-up the ballast box, pick-up five loads with the bucket, un-hook the ballast box, connect the manure spreader, I just left the ballast box off. My next run (in the spring) I will prepare better and have some type of weight (maybe suit case weights?) off of the 3-point that hopefully will not interfere with the PTO shaft of the manure spreader.

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dieselshadow

· #10 · Jan 23, 2012

Maybe a quick hitch is in order Xelerator :thumbup1gif: It makes installing and removing the ballast box a only a few seconds and you never leave the seat of the tractor.

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dieselshadow

· #11 · Jan 23, 2012

I forgot your need to have rear weight when hitched to the spreader also. Hmmmm:think:

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scrappy

· #12 · Jan 24, 2012

dieselshadow said:
Maybe a quick hitch is in order Xelerator :thumbup1gif: It makes installing and removing the ballast box a only a few seconds and you never leave the seat of the tractor.

dieselshadow said:
I forgot your need to have rear weight when hitched to the spreader also. Hmmmm:think:

build a hitch like they use on mower conditioners that use the 3pt arms. you would have to add a short driveshaft between the tractor and hitch with a stub on the hitch to drive the PTO on the manure spreader. this way the 3ph carries the weight and keeps (or improves) your turn radius with the spreader attached. the only caveat is that you also have to add a provision to the hitch so you can add weight to it to keep the 3ph down when the weight gets to the back of the spreader. this would also give you ballast when unhooked from the spreader.

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tomd999

· #13 · Jan 24, 2012

Hi,

I saw on another tractor board several years ago a person welded quickhitch mounts to a 3" thick steelplate. He cut a large "n" in the center so that the PTO shaft could pass through it and also a trailer could be hooked to the draw bar.

I remember it being about as wide as the tractor and it carried a bit high but he said it worked well. He said it weighed about 500lbs.

Sorry I can't find the posts or a picture for you.

Tom

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Xelerator

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 25, 2012

tomd999 said:
Hi,

I saw on another tractor board several years ago a person welded quickhitch mounts to a 3" thick steelplate. He cut a large "n" in the center so that the PTO shaft could pass through it and also a trailer could be hooked to the draw bar.

I remember it being about as wide as the tractor and it carried a bit high but he said it worked well. He said it weighed about 500lbs.

Sorry I can't find the posts or a picture for you.

Tom

Excellent idea, I think you are on to something here. Let me go back to the "drawing board".

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