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Discussion Starter #1
New shed is nearing the completion of major work. It is L-shaped. 44'x72' for cold storage with a 44'x30' heated, (in floor radiant), shop area.
The cold storage has 16' walls and the shop had 12' walls.
Just waiting for the OH doors to come in.
Still need to run electric and water to the shed.
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Thanks.
 

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It looks good. I like the insulation under the heat tubing. They do not do that down here.
 

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Looks good so far but will really be nice when done. :bigthumb:
 

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Looks nice surveyor. :thumbup1gif:
 

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That's down right purdy! Me likey! :good2:
 

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That is going to be NICE.:bigthumb::bigthumb:
 

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Looking Good! :thumbup1gif:

I did that, one heated section and one cold storage. I would recommend putting some heat in the storage area or at the very least, insulate the whole floor or not at all. That area froze and heaved all of my concrete floor. I now have cracks in it. Mind you, I only put Styrofoam around the perimeter about 8 feet in, the concrete cracked right at the end of the insulation. The frost also lifted the entire building of the cold area as the separation wall rose about an inch in the winter. Just might want to give it some thought. Good luck with the project.
 

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Have you thought about adding black iron pipe for compressed air to the area near the front overhead doors?
I did this with my old shop.. It makes it so easy to inflate tires on vehicles and trailers.
Enjoy your "man cave" !!
 

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Have you thought about adding black iron pipe for compressed air to the area near the front overhead doors?
I did this with my old shop.. It makes it so easy to inflate tires on vehicles and trailers.
Enjoy your "man cave" !!
Check the pressure rating on it but many times PEX and other plastic pipe can be used for air. I also have a run to get the air closer to the point of use. The PEX I used when I ripped out all the copper in my house last year has a long term pressure rating of 160PSI at 74F or 80PSI at 200F. So my temps in the summer are a bit warmer than 74 but my compressor only goes to 150PSI. It is a little easier to work with than black pipe.
 

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Check the pressure rating on it but many times PEX and other plastic pipe can be used for air. I also have a run to get the air closer to the point of use. The PEX I used when I ripped out all the copper in my house last year has a long term pressure rating of 160PSI at 74F or 80PSI at 200F. So my temps in the summer are a bit warmer than 74 but my compressor only goes to 150PSI. It is a little easier to work with than black pipe.

Caution should be used when using pipe or tubing not specifically designed for compressed air application. Example 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe is rated to a working pressure of above 280psi, that is well above what most home owner application compressors will build. The problem is PVC doesn't like the stretch and contract cycle that most pneumatic systems go through in the course for being used. Over time the PVC will become brittle and can explode. I was once cut with a pice of shattered PVC when my buddy was trying to twist apart a junction. Let me tell you that stuff can be razor sharp, I had a scar on my forehead for a few years from it.
 

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surveyor-boy that is one nice garage building. also love the pex heating in the floor. i did that to our basement floor in our home too. only thing i would of did differently was to put the blueboard down, instead of the Nasa bubble wrap they claimed to be better. and they tied our pex tubes to the woven wire, and that i believe let the pex tubing stay at the bottom of the cement. why do i say that? because when we have had snow here over the yrs, if i turn the floor heat up to stay warmer when down their, i can melt the snow a couple of feet away from our foundation. someday if i live long enough, gonna unhook the pex lines and go with steel floor heaters-i guess i should say the cast iron heaters(can't think of correct word for them.
 

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very nice!! how does that heating system work?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
very nice!! how does that heating system work?
Like BigJim I have in floor heat in my basement and it works great. Same setup; 6mil poly, 2"blueboard, 1/2" pex stapled to the blueboard, wire on top of that.
It will be awhile before I get the garage system up and running. I'm in no hurry but there is no retrofitting that stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Near term work to be done is to finish the 4" pvc that was stubbed from under the shop portion to the outside for an RV dump. Once that's done I'll be ready for exterior concrete. Then a small septic system will go out back. I plumbed in a toilet flange and drain for a sink in the shop as well.
 
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