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The pad (gravel base) for my 30x44 shop is done. Plan all along was to let it weather and let mother nature tamp it down.... So Now the task of actual design of the shop starts...Its my hope (sometimes it feels like its a Dream :laugh:) to get the slab poured next spring and then start building after that.
Pics attached of what i'm shootin for.

Anybody have any input on anything they would have done differently or would have liked to do? I've already modified my plans once...I orignally had planned on 30x40, but after seeing it staked out it seems too small so I bumped it up to 30x44 (my floorplan sketch is an old one, but the same idea will apply to the new length)
 

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Great idea. My pole building is 50' x 104' with 12' side walls. The shop area is 40' x 50', it contains a drain for washing, a lift area, and office and bath room. The office is 12' x 12' and the bathroom is 6' x 12' and contains the pressure tank, hot water heater, and a shower. I realize this maybe more than you are shooting for but all things for you to consider. Lift height is a big one. Also, consider about expansion, I know this is going to seem like a big space but it fills up fast over time. Particularly when you start adding cabinets and benches. One thing I did was put all the plumbing and wiring exterior to the walls (its a shop) makes for easier changes. This has saved me on several occasions. My heat is forced air with air conditioning. Many opt to put the heat in the floor but for me the forced air works great. I can turn it down when I am not there and recovery is very quick. The furnaces are in the air, the shop one is on top of the office (11'6" ceiling height). And the other (storage area) is hanging from the rafters on 3/4" threaded rod. This saves on floor space. There is one thing that I can guarantee and that is your needs will change over time. The best you can do is take your best shot at and go from there. Hope this helps.
 

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I have a post in projects over on TBN. It's long and has lots of pictures, so it would be a lot of work to re-post here, sorry. If you read it you might get some ideas.

Coulda/shoulda/woulda hasn't happened yet, so I'm happy with what I did. I'll be finishing the landscaping around it this fall, by next summer that should all be looking purty. There is nothing I did that I would not do again. One theme that runs through my project is that it was a garage, not a shop. I'd love a shop, but that's another expensive hobby and time sink. Kinda like buying tractors, hardest part is figuring out what you want to do, easiest part is knowing the color of the tractor you're going to get :laugh:.

Pete
 

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.....and a shower. I realize this maybe more than you are shooting for but all things for you to consider.

I'll only be about 100 feet from a shower/bathroom/etc... in the house so that hasnt even been considered...PLUS, all the Septic B.S. I'd need to do.... I'll be plumbing in water, but in winter I plan on flushing it out....just to be safe.

.....
My heat is forced air with air conditioning. Many opt to put the heat in the floor but for me the forced air works great. I can turn it down when I am not there and recovery is very quick. The furnaces are in the air, the shop one is on top of the office (11'6" ceiling height). And the other (storage area) is hanging from the rafters on 3/4" threaded rod. This saves on floor space. There is one thing that I can guarantee and that is your needs will change over time. The best you can do is take your best shot at and go from there. Hope this helps.
I've already been talked out of Radiant...that was what I wanted all along, but for a "part time shop" its not economically worth it. Radiant only pays back as a "set it and forget it" thing, so keeping the shop 65 degrees isnt economically worth it. My shop at home is heated with hot air and its great...keep the heat at 40 Degrees and when we're there just flip it up to 60/65 degrees...warm in no time.
I've heard the same thing about surface lines...I plan on surface mounting my air lines and POSSIBLY my 220v lines, but all 110 and other services I plan on putting in the wall, which will eventually be insulated and sheathed with Sheetrock...

Pete, I'm gonna go look for that thread now...
 

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Nice shop/garage Ken,
Why did you do Pole construction? I've seen tons of posts here and on other sites with pole buildings, but its not popular. When I got my initial design work done at the local lumberyard they said in the end it would be 6 in one/half dozen for the other price wise. They said if insulating & interior finish was part of the future plans, without a doubt go stick:think:
I was thinking stick built for ease of construction and it was cheaper initially
 

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Nice shop/garage Ken,
Why did you do Pole construction? I've seen tons of posts here and on other sites with pole buildings, but its not popular. When I got my initial design work done at the local lumberyard they said in the end it would be 6 in one/half dozen for the other price wise. They said if insulating & interior finish was part of the future plans, without a doubt go stick:think:
I was thinking stick built for ease of construction and it was cheaper initially
It all came down to $$$ for me in the end. I've wanted this building built for years, stick building was TWICE the price. The added cost of concrete footers, vinyl siding and a asphalt shingle roof put it out of reach for me. I even looked at the pole barn "kits", but could not buy this with the options for what I paid the Amish/Mennonite company to build it-and it only took five days.
 

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I'll echo kennyd's cost constraints, pole was cheaper than stick here.

I guess spudland is still reading my post on my garage, it's not exactly light/quick reading :laugh:.

Pete
 

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Dave, I have a few suggestion for your barn that you drew above.

1. You side entry doo will open into whatever you might have parked in that door 1 drive. I would highly suggest adding to the width of the shop to allow full swing of the door.

2. 8' garage doors (height) suck. Down the road, if you get some new toys, you will not get them in there. A side by side on a trailer will not fit. An enclosed trailer that is built to normal specs will not fit. A 4x20 will not fit. A boat of almost any size will not fit.... and on and on. Build for the future, even if you don't expect it.

3. Your side garage door is in an odd spot. You limit bay #2 to only 20 feet. That would be a pirus, jeep, or tractor. What do you plan to use that door for? I would use it for my tractor (lawn tractor). It also makes the part of the barn to the rear hard to use unless its shelving. and then you have to walk around stuff.

4. I think you are light on your width. If you take two cars or one truck and one car and park them so that each can open the doors fully and each side of the car has a door open, then measure the distance accross. I think that you will find that its almost 30 feet, depending on the car. 36 x 44 would solve a lot of your probelms! Its nice to be able to work around things once you have them in the shop.
 

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Build for the future, even if you don't expect it.
I couldn't agree more with Brian on this. This goes along the lines of wanting more tractor. You will always wish you have more room. No one ever wishes for a smaller shop. Money is always a concern. If you can not afford it now at the very least plan on how you would add on. I realize my shop is not a fair comparison, but I could not imagine anything smaller. Actually, my pole building is designed in eight foot increments and as I placed the order I added an eight foot section to it. My building is the biggest I could afford at the time. All you can do is take your best shot at it for your intended use. But trust me, your intended use will change. Here are some shots of my shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dave, I have a few suggestion for your barn that you drew above.

1. You side entry doo will open into whatever you might have parked in that door 1 drive. I would highly suggest adding to the width of the shop to allow full swing of the door.
Actually, the side door will be fine, its a 36" Door, and I should have 40" of clearance over there...Factor in the fact that a car/truck/tractor isnt a perfect 10' wide square...I should have plenty of room...

2. 8' garage doors (height) suck. Down the road, if you get some new toys, you will not get them in there. A side by side on a trailer will not fit. An enclosed trailer that is built to normal specs will not fit. A 4x20 will not fit. A boat of almost any size will not fit.... and on and on. Build for the future, even if you don't expect it.
You got me...thats one of the things I'm still debating...as I mentioned, the floorplan I posted is an older one...as of right now, I'd like to put the side garage door an 8.5 footer...that will allow me to upgrade to a 4x...but even then, there has been discussion that a 4x20 on R4's (the only tire I'd ever buy) will fit in an 8' door :think: As for trailers, I fail to see the need to park em in a garage...an enclosed trailer to me is a "Garage on wheels". Yeah it would be easy to just slap in some big doors and call it good, but I'm trying to balance the asthetics with functionality. See the attached pic...in a PERFECT world, I'd probably just build something like that in 30x44, but I live in a nice neighborhood and dont want to be the guy with the "Barn"...

3. Your side garage door is in an odd spot. You limit bay #2 to only 20 feet. That would be a pirus, jeep, or tractor. What do you plan to use that door for? I would use it for my tractor (lawn tractor). It also makes the part of the barn to the rear hard to use unless its shelving. and then you have to walk around stuff.

Actually, the current plan is to push that door to 24' spacing...POSSIBLY 26'....the game plan is I'd rather have the 2 front doors be tight, because the side door is my tractor door and shop door. The front 2 doors will be used for vehicles.

4. I think you are light on your width. If you take two cars or one truck and one car and park them so that each can open the doors fully and each side of the car has a door open, then measure the distance accross. I think that you will find that its almost 30 feet, depending on the car. 36 x 44 would solve a lot of your probelms! Its nice to be able to work around things once you have them in the shop.
Send me a donation to pay for the trusses and I'll build it however wide you want...pricing them out, after 30' width (trusses are 32' overall, gives me a 12" eve) the price spikes up quite a bit. 32' seems to be the "financial sweet spot" for truss width.
 

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Here is an idea that worked out pretty well. Folding work benches. This is my paint prep and mixing benches.
 

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Randy, I been meaning to ask you...after seeing all those pics, what do you do with that shop? Safe to say most people dont have paint booths in their shops :laugh:

On a serious note, how do you like the Corrugated steel interior?
 

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Randy, I been meaning to ask you...after seeing all those pics, what do you do with that shop? Safe to say most people dont have paint booths in their shops :laugh:
Yeah, I realize I have something most people only dream of. I am not limited in much of what I can do. Just name it, I like restoring things, cars and gas pumps mostly.

On a serious note, how do you like the Corrugated steel interior?
I love it. It is painted white to reflect the light and it is very durable and washable. I can not imagine having anything else on the walls.
 

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Yeah, I realize I have something most people only dream of. I am not limited in much of what I can do. Just name it, I like restoring things, cars and gas pumps mostly.
I love restoring things too...
What kinda cars? My Brother, Father and I did a Frame off resto of this 71 Chevelle...Factory SS, Big Block, 4 Speed...Nothing t's me off more then seeing a Malibu with SS Badging :nunu:
We got a few old gas pumps in the Farm "Salvage Yard"...my plan was after I build my shop, I'd chop the pump in half and mount it on the wall..hide a real pump in there and actually use it to fuel my tractors.

I love it. It is painted white to reflect the light and it is very durable and washable. I can not imagine having anything else on the walls.
One common complaint and why I was told "Dont do it"...was noise...when doing anything like hammering, grinding, dropping steel, etc.. its SUPER loud in a steel interior building....I originally wanted it myself...
 

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I love restoring things too...
What kinda cars? My Brother, Father and I did a Frame off resto of this 71 Chevelle...Factory SS, Big Block, 4 Speed...Nothing t's me off more then seeing a Malibu with SS Badging
That turned out really nice, good job. I am into the Camaro and Corvette thing. Right now I have a 62 vette that I am doing a ground up on.
 

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One common complaint and why I was told "Dont do it"...was noise...when doing anything like hammering, grinding, dropping steel, etc.. its SUPER loud in a steel interior building....I originally wanted it myself...
Well, this is a new one on me. But then again, my shop is so full of stuff I think it can help with the sound deadening. I am not sure I buy into this at all the more I think about it. I think a wall is a wall for sound reflection. In any case, I have not noticed any what I would call difference, and I do some noisy stuff. But, then again, I wear hearing protection when needed, inside and out.
 

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It all came down to $$$ for me in the end. I've wanted this building built for years, stick building was TWICE the price. The added cost of concrete footers, vinyl siding and a asphalt shingle roof put it out of reach for me. I even looked at the pole barn "kits", but could not buy this with the options for what I paid the Amish/Mennonite company to build it-and it only took five days.
Interesting....My local lumberyard offers "sketching services" by that I mean they'll draw up what you want and supply you with a bill of materials...cost for the "Shell" was 1k difference between stick framing with 2x6's and going with a Pole Barn. BIG Downside to a pole barn to me is Pole Rot...Dunno how things are for you guys, but wood rots here in Maine like crazy...The minute you go with a PermaColumn type setup, your now MORE Expensive then a traditional stick built.
To be honest with you guys, Most of my cost is because of SWMBO. Its been commanded from the CFO/SWMBO/DaBoss that we NEED to have the same exact vinyl, same roofing, same everything as the house. No joke, it DOUBLED the cost of the 12x16 Garden Shed I build 2 years ago...you dont even want to know what them bleepin shutters cost me...The MFG of the shutters doesnt offer them that small as a standard size...so I had to get them thru their Custom Shop... And of course, because we used top shelf materials on the house, that made it so the roofing and vinyl cost more then 2x what the original plan called for
 

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That turned out really nice, good job. I am into the Camaro and Corvette thing. Right now I have a 62 vette that I am doing a ground up on.
Ahhh, a man with a heart similar to mine...
You can see the tail in the first pic I posted, but heres a pic of another angle...'71 Ray... I love Vettes...been to the Bloomington Gold and Corvettes at Carlisle shows...when we went to Carlisle it was the Callaway gathering.... Actually participated in the Zora Duntov charity auction in Carlisle that year and was high bidder on a Centerfold from Corvettes Quarterly of the egineering of the C5 signed by every C5 Engineer...

Share some pics of your C1...I'm not big into the C1's...Although the Rochester Mechanical Fuel Injection ALWAYS has perked my interest...

I've got a 89 Camaro...but would kill to find a 68/69 project...
 

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Most of my cost is because of SWMBO. Its been commanded from the CFO/SWMBO/DaBoss that we NEED to have the same exact vinyl, same roofing, same everything as the house.
WOW, am I really glad I don't have that constraint to work with. Sorry for your pain. So is the white picket fence in the works?:laugh:
 
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