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Ordered a new 54" front mount snow blower for my 2025R this fall. Along with the snowblower I also had planned on changing out the 3 blade poly impeller to the 4 blade steel one from Agri Metal , Part # 99-50-0055.
Before installing the new impeller, I drilled and tapped out a hole for a grease zerk along the shaft.
Prior to swapping over the impellers, I ran the poly one to get some sense of how far it threw the snow.
The 4 blade steel one does throw the snow farther in my unscientific tests.
The only plastic left on the blower is the shroud covering the chute control.
Ready for snow.
* when it's time to trade out this tractor and blower in a few years, I'll be moving over to the green HD 54" blower and front 3 pt hitch *

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I did the same to my 54" blower last spring after the last snow. I have used it once -- it did well.

rob
 
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I did this swap out last year….not enough snow for real testing….glad you had positive results
 

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Ordered a new 54" front mount snow blower for my 2025R this fall. Along with the snowblower I also had planned on changing out the 3 blade poly impeller to the 4 blade steel one from Agri Metal , Part # 99-50-0055.
Before installing the new impeller, I drilled and tapped out a hole for a grease zerk along the shaft.
Prior to swapping over the impellers, I ran the poly one to get some sense of how far it threw the snow.
The 4 blade steel one does throw the snow farther in my unscientific tests.
The only plastic left on the blower is the shroud covering the chute control.
Ready for snow.
* when it's time to trade out this tractor and blower in a few years, I'll be moving over to the green HD 54" blower and front 3 pt hitch *

View attachment 875348
The entire auger and impeller assembly can be removed in one piece?! I was holding off on doing this mod because I was worried I'd have to remove the left and right augers independently and had no desire to open the front gearbox. My primary concern was re-assembling and having something out of balance and having it self-implode.
 

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The entire auger and impeller assembly can be removed in one piece?! I was holding off on doing this mod because I was worried I'd have to remove the left and right augers independently and had no desire to open the front gearbox. My primary concern was re-assembling and having something out of balance and having it self-implode.
It comes out in one assembly. My blower's side panels are bent a bit inwards, so it is a bit hard to remove and put back in, but other than that, very easy job. Removing the chain box makes it easier from my perspective also.
 

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I meant to do this mod as my plastic impeller is getting a bit beat up. The steel impeller was back order/ unavailable in early spring. Kinda forgot about over summer. I probably should order one while they are in stock, just so I have a spare .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes.. the whole auger assembly comes out in one piece.
As my blower was brand new, I was pretty certain the poly impeller was not seized on. And I was right. Always nice when you can wrench on new equipment that isn't all rusted and seized up. I knew I was going to replace the impeller anyways.. so why wait.
The new steel impeller does not come with any grease fittings. I drilled and tapped that one in.
Was a fairly easy straight forward job. It does help immensely though, to support the whole auger housing as you are removing and re installing. I did not have an extra pair of hands to help me in the shop that day. I used 2 pieces of 2x6 board, cut to the exact height and slipped them under the auger bar, pulling the auger away from the housing an inch or so at a time.
 
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It comes out in one assembly. My blower's side panels are bent a bit inwards, so it is a bit hard to remove and put back in, but other than that, very easy job. Removing the chain box makes it easier from my perspective also.
oh okay good to know. i have the sealed gearbox on the backside.
 

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this is how I disassembled auger from housing using chainfall
 
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I just purchased a 54" blower to replace my faithful loader mounted blade. Never used and waiting for the first snowfall. I'll change the impeller, but I'll wait until the warranty runs out.
 

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I found it is much easier removing and reinstalling the complete impeller and auger assembly if you put blower on its back, so you can extract and reinstall the assembly straight out and straight in. Using gravity. It is really difficult to do it from the front at an angle.

rob
 

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This is my 54” blower 1st time with new steel impeller with flaps of bailer belt on the impeller fins. Last winter at home.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is my 54” blower 1st time with new steel impeller with flaps of bailer belt on the impeller fins. Last winter at home.
Very nice. Look at that snow fly. You look a little frosty there, how about a Mauser cab to top it off? ;)
 
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Very nice. Look at that snow fly. You look a little frosty there, how about a Mauser cab to top it off? ;)
Anyone planning on changing out the impeller, I would do it when new. It is a PITA to cut off a siezed polly impeller and it added at least 6 hours to the job.
 

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This is my 54” blower 1st time with new steel impeller with flaps of bailer belt on the impeller fins. Last winter at home.
Is that with the JD steel or the agrifab steel?

Anyone planning on changing out the impeller, I would do it when new. It is a PITA to cut off a siezed polly impeller and it added at least 6 hours to the job.
Still contemplating it since i have all of 3hrs use on my blower. I've been holding off myself to see if the agrifab is the way to go or the oem steel one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Still contemplating it since i have all of 3hrs use on my blower. I've been holding off myself to see if the agrifab is the way to go or the oem steel one.
The OEM steel one from Deere is very close to 3 times more expensive than the Agri Steel impeller.
 

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Just some information for you folks wanting to remove the front auger assembly and gearbox in one piece.

Pro Tip here: It might be worthwhile to spray some rust penetrant on the collars, bearings and retainer side plates a few days before disassembly!

Loosen the locking bearing retainer collars just inboard of the auger shaft side bearings. You can then move the collars and side plates inboard and away from the inner auger housing sides. This procedure makes removal and especially reassembly much easier.

Upon reassembly you'll have more side clearance to assist with reinstalling the complete assembly with 1/4" to 3/8" on each side. I typically reassemble the side plates and bearings together on the auger shafts using a couple of zip ties to make reassembly and alignment easier. Catch a bolt and nut. Cut the zip ties and install the remaining fasteners. Reverse the disassembly procedure making sure the augers, shaft and gear case bracket are aligned before reinstalling the side bearing locking retainer collars.
 

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Is that with the JD steel or the agrifab steel?



Still contemplating it since i have all of 3hrs use on my blower. I've been holding off myself to see if the agrifab is the way to go or the oem steel one.
JD
 

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The OEM steel one from Deere is very close to 3 times more expensive than the Agri Steel impeller.
I know that's why I'm leaning towards the Agri metal impeller. I have to look into doing the JD impeller flap mod and how to tweak the the install for the difference design of the Agri metal impeller

Just some information for you folks wanting to remove the front auger assembly and gearbox in one piece.

Pro Tip here: It might be worthwhile to spray some rust penetrant on the collars, bearings and retainer side plates a few days before disassembly!

Loosen the locking bearing retainer collars just inboard of the auger shaft side bearings. You can then move the collars and side plates inboard and away from the inner auger housing sides. This procedure makes removal and especially reassembly much easier.

Upon reassembly you'll have more side clearance to assist with reinstalling the complete assembly with 1/4" to 3/8" on each side. I typically reassemble the side plates and bearings together on the auger shafts using a couple of zip ties to make reassembly and alignment easier. Catch a bolt and nut. Cut the zip ties and install the remaining fasteners. Reverse the disassembly procedure making sure the augers, shaft and gear case bracket are aligned before reinstalling the side bearing locking retainer collars.
Great advice! I'm lucky in the aspect that my bearing retaining collars are not seized as I found them loose and the set screws unsecured when I was putting it away for hibernation. Shame on me for not checking the torque of them from the dealer or that they'd work themselves loose. Either way it was under warranty so they would have been handling their goof-up.
 
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