[Sandfire]

So today I scored a 485 with the 62 inch deck and 940 hrs. Brought it home checked the oil and blade height and tried it out mowing. Very impressed it's a beast. So after some test mowing time (45 min) I decided to check things over closer. I had it started and checked the lights. The tail lights work but not the head lights. So I shut it off to check the bulbs. Both bulbs appear to be ok and in tact. Unplugged the plug to the head lights to check with test light and the tractor wouldn't start back up.(didn't hear the fuel pump prime) Took the side cover off and checked the 2 fuses both good. With this being my first fuel injected one I am at a loss where to look next for the issue. Also the lever for the tilt wheel moves but can't get the steering wheel to move up. I've had 2 425s, and just sold one to get this 485 but this is new for me. The tractor had been serviced with all filters changed (air fuel oil) 3 hrs ago and also new spark plugs. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Sundancer268]

Without the service manual, you are just guessing what to check. On my 445 FI engine, you have to have the fuel pump running or the injector will not pass the fuel onto the engine. It is well worth the price for the manual just to avoid the dealer service department for an hour or two of work. If it is available in a PDF, I would get the manual in that form as you can print out the section you need when you need it and replace it when it gets damaged or greased up.

 

[Sandfire]

going to search for that tonight. I have an online one for the 425.

 

[sennister]

Look at my post about a Dead X585. It is the same machine but 4wd vs your 2wd. I have the same issue with the fuel pump not priming. In my case there is a the 10A fuse on the right side access cover. It isn't the 15A fuses on the board but the one loose in the fuse holder. My fuse was good but the wire got pinched on the run over from the starter and I blew the fusible link. It was a quick check by looking for 12V in the fuse socket and it was dead.

I would start by checking that 10A fuse as it controls the EFI relay which then powers the fuel pump relay which are the two relays that you can see in the background of this pic. The fuse is in the pic as well but the blurry blob.

 

[Zebrafive]

Since your tail lights work, the fuse is OK and the light switch is OK. It's down to power to the connector, bulb(s), or ground.

 

[sennister]

Also the lever for the tilt wheel moves but can't get the steering wheel to move up.

Oh and this is very common. More so if used for mowing. Since I retired my machine from mowing mine still works but the tolerances seem a bit tight and it just takes a little dust to gum up the mechanism. It is one of those things though where I set it where I like and then don't bother moving it again for a year and I find it frozen. If I happen to tear things apart like this pic below I can get it working again. Then once set where I like it, after a while it will normally get stuck again.

 

[Zebrafive]

Look at my post about a Dead X585. It is the same machine but 4wd vs your 2wd. I have the same issue with the fuel pump not priming. In my case there is a the 10A fuse on the right side access cover. It isn't the 15A fuses on the board but the one loose in the fuse holder. My fuse was good but the wire got pinched on the run over from the starter and I blew the fusible link. It was a quick check by looking for 12V in the fuse socket and it was dead.

I would start by checking that 10A fuse as it controls the EFI relay which then powers the fuel pump relay which are the two relays that you can see in the background of this pic. The fuse is in the pic as well but the blurry blob.

The 10 amp fuse F7 does not "control" the EFI relay K12. It is the power that the relay switches "ON" to power the fuel pump relay K13.
It's the Ignition Interlock Module that controls the EFI relay K12.
But sinnister put you on the right track, you need power at fuse F7 or the fuel pump will not work. This fuse is always "hot" key ON or OFF. If you do not have power to F7, next check the fusible link that is between the starter solenoid and the fuse holder.

 

[Zebrafive]

Agreed, tilt not working is very common. I looked at several used X485s when I was shopping. Most the tilt did not work. Mine (bought used in 2016, 500 hours) still does "knock on wood". I try and remember to tilt it every time I mow.

 

[sennister]

The 10 amp fuse F7 does not "control" the EFI relay K12. It is the power that the relay switches "ON" to power the fuel pump relay K13.
It's the Ignition Interlock Module that controls the EFI relay K12.
But sinnister put you on the right track, you need power at fuse F7 or the fuel pump will not work. This fuse is always "hot" key ON or OFF. If you do not have power to F7, next check the fusible link that is between the starter solenoid and the fuse holder.

Yeah mis-worded it. Not the coil side of the relay but the power that is being switched (load) side of the relay. But either way with no power going through F7 it ain't gonna work.

The fusible link is what bit me when that wire shorted out on the frame. You can see the arrow pointing to the shiny bit on the frame where the rub was. In my case the wire got pinched when the side access panel had been last installed. Eventually this wore through the wire between the F7 fuse holder and the starter motor. The fusible link is what saved my tractor yesterday. I was able to rig it up to make it run so I could get my FEL off the machine so I had full access to the hood area as well as move the tractor into my shop where it is more comfortable to work on vs out in the rain in the front yard.

 

[sennister]

Agreed, tilt not working is very common. I looked at several used X485s when I was shopping. Most the tilt did not work. Mine (bought used in 2016, 500 hours) still does "knock on wood". I try and remember to tilt it every time I mow.

Yep just like my old joints. If you don't keep exercising them they will freeze up. The people that say their tilt still works, it is because they use it. Though even if I do go and try to move it, I keep forgetting which way to move the lever to unlock it because it is so rare. I then fumble with it a bit and figure it out. It did work the last time I tried though.. Probably over a year ago now...

 

[Zebrafive]

Both my trucks have tilt wheels which I never change, but I am the only driver.
My Silverado has power adjust pedals, another thing I never adjust.

 

[Sandfire]

I checked the 10 amp fuse and it was ok, even replaced with a new one to be sure. There is constant power going to it. I can't find a fusible link though. I did find a yellow button up in behind the dash on the other side that I can't figure out what it does. You push on it and it goes right back out with no clicks, like it is a pressure switch but nothing anywhere around it. I cleaned the connections on all 3 relays and still nothing.

 

[Sandfire]

This machine was used as a mower only before so I gave it a good cleaning and blew everything out. Once I get everything back up to par it will only see very limited mowing time (maybe 1/2 hr a week for a small area) otherwise it will be used for pulling all yard tools as I use a 757 zero turn to mow with. This will be a back up unit for the 757.

 

[sennister]

Yellow button is the service reminder reset button. Though I think I have too many hrs on my machine for it to remind me now it seems. I just do fluid changes on it every spring. I don't mow with it now so it doesn't see the use it once did.

The fusible link is good if you have 12V at F7. There isn't much to see on them. If you look on the starter you will see the big red wire coming from the battery and then three smaller wires coming off a single ring terminal. They are probably covered in dirt and dust so it is hard to tell colors but the smallest one which is grey is the one that goes to F7. Mine is blown but a visual inspection it looks fine. I know mine is blown because I didn't have 12V at F7. I stripped the heat shrink back a bit where the fusible link transitions to the red wire and I had continuity from F7 to that point. I do not have continuity from that point though to the ring terminal. That is the only way I knew mine was blown.

 

[sennister]

So in the TM you can jump to pg 227. It is a bit easier to read than the full schematic that starts on pg197.

Also a diagnostics check list on pg102.

I will say I can't think of any direct correlation with the headlights and the fuel pump. Which is why this is a little confusing unless something was bumped along the way. For instance the headlight connector is right next to the starter which is what powers via that fusible link the F7 which then goes on through relays to the fuel pump. Keep in mind that it could be the ignition switch.

 

[Sandfire]

I think what I'm going to do is print off a bunch of these pages and go the garage with them so I can do some testing. Have an appointment here in a little bit so print later this afternoon. I'm thinking maybe the next step is to take seat pan off to make sure power is to the pump. But before I do that I'll clean the connection on the electric fuel injection module.

 

[Sandfire]

Update: it was just dumb luck I finally found the problem

Finally have the 485 FIXED! Have to give a Thank You shout out to sennister for his help and pm's.

Now for what happened. After many hrs of going over the manual and cleaning electrical connections with no results it was just luck I found the real problem. All this time I had been looking to make sure I had power where it was supposed to be. I had power everywhere I was supposed to except at the pump. I went to the left side of the tractor where there are 2 big connectors in the wiring harness and cleaned them. Tried the key and the fuel pump pumped, so started it up. Lasted about 15 seconds and died. So I look closer and find there are 2 wires with a loop connector on the end behind this group that isn't connected to anything. Touch them to ground and VIOLA! pump works. So attached it to the block and all is good again. So someone had worked on this tractor and forgot to hook it back up. It must have been laying against the block when I test drove it and bought it. So in tracking to power problem had the dash all apart and fixed the tilt steering. Had the hood off and found the positive wire in the plug foe the headlights had backed out so reinserted it and head lights work again. Had seat pan off to check for power at pump. So everything has had a good cleaning. Did find that the power port on fender isn't working so need to trace that down and fix it yet. Then it'll be time to mount the 2 inch receiver on the back and get the polish out and finish the clean up.
Thanks to everyone who gave input. Somehow I the back of my mind I thought it had to be something simple stupid if I just shut it off and then it wouldn't run again.