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Discussion Starter #1
I pick up a new to me X758 this past weekend to replace my former 445. The big thing I was looking for was an AWD drive model, but it didn’t necessarily have to be such a new model. I was content with either an X728 or an X748, but it was hard to pass up the deal. It’s a 2017 model with about 150hrs, 54HC deck, 54” plow, wheel weights, suitcase weights, and click n’ go weight bracket. Still has 2 years of factory warranty remaining.

I got a chance to get it out and cut fields for about 3 hours on Saturday. The 445 I had was no slouch, I was very happy with that machine, but this x758 just blows it away in most ways. The biggest thing I noticed was the difference in power. While the 445 w/ the HD 60 had no problem cutting 1.5-2’ tall grass, you could definitely hear the pitch of the engine and the mower change as it was being worked, and you would have to decrease ground speed. With the X758 it just went right through 1.5’ tall grass without the engine ever sounding like it was working and with only a minimal decrease in ground speed. It felt like it was cutting 3” tall grass. The 54HC deck even left an excellent cut after 1 pass. Typically, with the HD60 I would have to make two passes to get it all level. Overall, I thought the 54HC deck left a beautiful cut, and I was satisfied with the cut the HD60 left. I did have to stop at least twice to clean the radiator screen out. I kept keeping an eye on the temp bar on the gauge and once it hit 4 bars I knew it was time to clean it. It’s amazing how much air that engine pulls compared to the 445. Fuel economy seems to be good, although the gauge seems pretty sensitive as at one point it was flashing that I was low on fuel after only about 2 hours of cutting and I had filled it full prior to starting. I’ll have to refill the tank and see how much it takes to see how accurate the gauge is. Once I got back on level ground then it showed there being more in the tank.

Thoughts...
I like the cut the 54HC gives but having the 60HC would be better because of the extra width. I’m almost hesitant to go with a 60HC though since I’m pretty happy with the cut on the 54HC, and I can also move a lot faster on this tractor than I could with the 445 and still achieve an excellent cut. The HC decks definitely cause more clippings to end up on the tractor though compared to the HD60. I noticed build up of small clippings on the right rear wheel, on the fender pan and under the floor boards of the X758 that wouldn’t easily come off with a leaf blower. I think if the deflector on the deck had a rear lip and wasn’t just open than that might solve the issue. It sure is nice though to be able to quickly uninstall/reinstall the deck to clean it out after mowing.

I like the new X series seat, I just need to order some arm rests for it. Any thoughts on the air ride seat upgrade? Armrests are two hundred. Without buying those and then selling my old seat, it would probably only cost me a couple hundred to upgrade to the air ride. I like the air ride in my 3039r, but it may not be worth it on the X758.

While I love diesels, I’ve never been a fan of how JD sets the exhaust up to exit on the lower front of the machines. This just makes exhaust blow back in your face and your constantly breathing it. I may seriously look at fabbing some sort of vertical exhaust. I’m going to install a 45 degree silicone elbow in the meantime to see if I can direct it right out to the side. We’ll see how that works.

I already went ahead and ordered the 3 point, and the conversion kit was delivered yesterday. It’s unfortunate how the install isn’t as simple as the old 445 was, but it doesn’t seem like it’s too terrible.

I've got a few other upgrades in mind like the front deck roller and front fenders.
 

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I have the 60HC on my x758. I haven't been able to get it to level very well and it is probably due to the width causing edges to lift or dig in. Mine cuts decently when it is mostly grass but during dandelion season it can leave things pretty ragged.

I have armrests and I find little use for them. They're too high for my taste and I tend to have arm either down on the fender handle or holding a beer while I'm mowing so I mostly never use them.

You probably don't need all that ballast on your tractor for mowing. The x758 is pretty heavy to start with and with HDAP tires and AWD the traction is fantastic. I have fairly soft black dirt under my lawn and when the ground is wet my tractor tends to leave some slight ruts. You can't really see them but if you mow perpendicular you'll feel them.

Overall the x758 is a fantastic tractor and does all core tractor functions as well as I expect a premium GT to do. It is the implements that are disappointing to me (snowblower and mower).

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the 60HC on my x758. I haven't been able to get it to level very well and it is probably due to the width causing edges to lift or dig in. Mine cuts decently when it is mostly grass but during dandelion season it can leave things pretty ragged.

I have armrests and I find little use for them. They're too high for my taste and I tend to have arm either down on the fender handle or holding a beer while I'm mowing so I mostly never use them.

You probably don't need all that ballast on your tractor for mowing. The x758 is pretty heavy to start with and with HDAP tires and AWD the traction is fantastic. I have fairly soft black dirt under my lawn and when the ground is wet my tractor tends to leave some slight ruts. You can't really see them but if you mow perpendicular you'll feel them.

Overall the x758 is a fantastic tractor and does all core tractor functions as well as I expect a premium GT to do. It is the implements that are disappointing to me (snowblower and mower).

Rob
I need to re-lever my deck as well. Right now the cut heights are off as far as what the knob says. Just under 4" on the knob is more like right at 3" in reality. But at the moment the rear of my deck is running about a 1/2" higher than the front.

I agree, I didn't run any of that extra weight while I was mowing as I figured it was just unnecessary weight for the tractor to carry. I pulled the wheel weights off right after the picture was taken as I was worried they may scar up the paint on the wheels. I think I may pick up a set of start weights for the wheels, that way the 50lb'rs won't be mounted on the surface of the wheel.

Rick
 

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Congrats on the new ride!

I made a similar jump, from a 445 to a x750...with a slight 13 year gap in between (while I lived in suburb on a small postage-sized-lot).

Loved my 445 and actually looked at a few when we moved back to acreage last summer. But the hours were high on most...and that diesel just spoke to me : )

Lucky to find a gently used x750 with just 79 hours on it.

I too had challenges with my deck (60HC), but discovered it needed to be leveled. Seems to be working great now. I'd rather have a 54" deck, but I'll stick with the 60".

I have mowed twice this season, and surpassed the 100 hour mark...wife laughs at me every time I mow. Says I have this stupid grin on my face the entire time! HA!

Enjoy!
 

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Congrats on the new machine.

The deck size is going to play a factor in cut quality. A smaller deck will always produce a better cut on an uneven ground but the trade off is more passes. I noticed this when going from the 54C on my X585 to the 60 on my Z950R. I am not mowing a pro baseball field or golf course so I don't really care, for me speed was the factor over quality which is why I went Ztrak with a bigger deck. Deck leveling helps but no amount of leveling matters when I cut my ditch. It is going to scalp on the outer edges of the deck and it will be long in the middle.

You have a good find there.
 

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Haven't used a 758 but the 738 is a nice machine.

As you stated one think , the fuel gauge is a PIA. When mowing on hills or slopes , it will show low fuel light, came down to level area and it isn't low. The first few times this happened I would come back to garage and add gas. The one time I think I may have added a gallon of gas.:banghead::banghead:
 

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Haven't used a 758 but the 738 is a nice machine.

As you stated one think , the fuel gauge is a PIA. When mowing on hills or slopes , it will show low fuel light, came down to level area and it isn't low. The first few times this happened I would come back to garage and add gas. The one time I think I may have added a gallon of gas.:banghead::banghead:
My 1987 JD 175 Hydro did the exact same thing... when mowing across a hill it would illuminate the low fuel indicator. The fuel gauge on my current X500 also seems to be overly sensitive to the pitch and roll movements of the tractor.
 

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Congrats on the new machine! I’m sure you will really enjoy using it.:good2:

I learned my lesson regarding the funky fuel gauge too. Now I tend to pretty much ignore it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's the new exhaust tip, a 45 degree piece of silicone good for 500 degrees. So far in quick testing it definitely cuts down on the fumes. You have to lean over the right side of the tractor to pick any up, to point that the tractor will cut off from the seat switch. We'll see how it holds up to mowing.

Rick
 

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The air ride seat comes with arm rests, as it should for the outrageous price! If you are short it is kinda useless, fully raised I could not reach the pedals. They are made of a hard material and not very comfortable in my opinion. I have installed a few of them, remove seat and fender, connect into factory harness, runs off the same power as your power port, so your power port needs to be turned on for it to power the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The air ride seat comes with arm rests, as it should for the outrageous price! If you are short it is kinda useless, fully raised I could not reach the pedals. They are made of a hard material and not very comfortable in my opinion. I have installed a few of them, remove seat and fender, connect into factory harness, runs off the same power as your power port, so your power port needs to be turned on for it to power the seat.
Interesting, thanks. Good to know. I'm about 5'9" so it might be pushing it on the air ride seat. I may just stick with the factory seat then. I do feel like the suspension on this seat is a good bit stiffer than the suspension on my 445. As if the springs are too firm for my weight. The manual mentions different springs being available from the dealer, but I haven't been able to find any in a few quick searches online.

Rick
 

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Don't forget to check the tire pressure in your tires. It's common for them to have much more pressure than required. Lowering the pressure in the tires to the manual specs drastically increases ride comfort on the x7's.
 

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The fuel gauges are an area where Deere really needs to improve, heck the 1 series doesn't even have a fuel gauge in the dash, its the goofy little gauge the size of a silver dollar which is down on the left, almost behind the operator, and of course, I can't see it at night when plowing snow without turning the dome light on as there is no light in the gauge either. Very cheesy on a tractor in that price range as far as I am concerned.

I will say it's a manual float type gauge and it tends to be fairly accurate, the design of the fuel tank has much of the capacity low in the tank and the top of the tank is skinny so the fuel tends to go slow the first half of the tank and then fast for the 2nd half. Its just hard to see and poorly placed, which fuel gauges shouldn't be.

With this machine, just like my 455 and my 1025r, using the PTO, the machine should burn about 7/8th of a gallon to 1.1 gallons of diesel per clock hour. I always fill my machine when I finish using it, as you do not want diesel tanks sitting partially empty as diesel fuel naturally attracts moisture. The less empty tank space, the less moisture in your diesel fuel, regardless of the time of year. I keep track of my fuel needs by the clock as much as the fuel gauge. After 5 hours of use, its time for more fuel.

Also, just FYI, Biodiesel by design has as much as 5 times the "Moisture in Suspense" (water....) in the fuel when produced. Plus Biodiesel has lower cetane which is the diesel fuel equivalent of octane (loosely, but you get the point) as the higher the cetane, the more power your machine will produce. Avoid Biodiesel and your machine will likely run better and run longer. How do you know if it's Biodiesel? The fuel will have the "B" in front of the number such as B20, which is 20% Biodiesel or B100, which is 100% biodiesel.

I recommend you run one of the following products in your diesel fuel year around, not only does it treat the fuel to prevent any fuel filter freezing in the winter, it cuts down on the smoke and diesel smell, dramatically. It also has lubrication components to help maintain the injector pump and detergents to keep the fuel system and injectors clean. It adds about $0.10 cents per gallon to your diesel fuel costs but the improved performance and even improved mileage makes it money well spent. Plus, you avoid any of the issues with diesel fuel.

Please note, I attached the links just to point out the products, You can order them one bottle at a time and its sold at most farm stores. These are the two brands I have used and like. There are other brands which are good also, but make sure to NEVER run any fuel additives which use any alcohol. One of the most popular products sold is the "911 Rescue" in the red bottle. Its designed to hold water in the diesel fuel instead of separating the water. This is strongly discouraged by engine and fuel system manufacturers because water is very abrasive and alcohol, the chemical used to hold the water in the diesel fuel, is very corrosive on fuel system components.

Below is a link to an article about the diesel engines in boats and dealing with water and fuel issues. It makes many very valid points and is written for the non chemist to read.......:laugh::lol:

https://www.amazon.com/Howes-HL306712-Meaner-Diesel-Cleaner/dp/B01N4UA972/ref=lp_8904032011_1_3?srs=8904032011&ie=UTF8&qid=1556281993&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Shots-Secret-P040416Z-Extreme/dp/B00IUGFZE2/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1O05PD8KXQ432&keywords=hot+shot+diesel+treatment&qid=1556282098&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+shot+diesel%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-26



https://www.proboat.com/2017/12/diesel-fuel-additives-part-1-myths-facts-warranties-water/
 

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Agree that the fuel gauge is frustrating. I've learned to just ignore mine for my normal use. I mow 7 acres which takes me 4.5 hours. My x758 uses 0.8-0.9 gal/hr so I know a full tank is enough for a full session. I just fill the tank before mowing and complete the run, regardless of whether the little fuel light is flashing at me on the dash or not. In the winter for snowblowing I use the gauge but that's all on flat ground so the gauge is more accurate then.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't forget to check the tire pressure in your tires. It's common for them to have much more pressure than required. Lowering the pressure in the tires to the manual specs drastically increases ride comfort on the x7's.
Good point, thanks. I did actually lower the rears from 16 to 8, and the fronts from 16 to 10, prior to the 3 hour cut job. I may go even lower.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The fuel gauges are an area where Deere really needs to improve, heck the 1 series doesn't even have a fuel gauge in the dash, its the goofy little gauge the size of a silver dollar which is down on the left, almost behind the operator, and of course, I can't see it at night when plowing snow without turning the dome light on as there is no light in the gauge either. Very cheesy on a tractor in that price range as far as I am concerned.

I will say it's a manual float type gauge and it tends to be fairly accurate, the design of the fuel tank has much of the capacity low in the tank and the top of the tank is skinny so the fuel tends to go slow the first half of the tank and then fast for the 2nd half. Its just hard to see and poorly placed, which fuel gauges shouldn't be.

With this machine, just like my 455 and my 1025r, using the PTO, the machine should burn about 7/8th of a gallon to 1.1 gallons of diesel per clock hour. I always fill my machine when I finish using it, as you do not want diesel tanks sitting partially empty as diesel fuel naturally attracts moisture. The less empty tank space, the less moisture in your diesel fuel, regardless of the time of year. I keep track of my fuel needs by the clock as much as the fuel gauge. After 5 hours of use, its time for more fuel.

Also, just FYI, Biodiesel by design has as much as 5 times the "Moisture in Suspense" (water....) in the fuel when produced. Plus Biodiesel has lower cetane which is the diesel fuel equivalent of octane (loosely, but you get the point) as the higher the cetane, the more power your machine will produce. Avoid Biodiesel and your machine will likely run better and run longer. How do you know if it's Biodiesel? The fuel will have the "B" in front of the number such as B20, which is 20% Biodiesel or B100, which is 100% biodiesel.

I recommend you run one of the following products in your diesel fuel year around, not only does it treat the fuel to prevent any fuel filter freezing in the winter, it cuts down on the smoke and diesel smell, dramatically. It also has lubrication components to help maintain the injector pump and detergents to keep the fuel system and injectors clean. It adds about $0.10 cents per gallon to your diesel fuel costs but the improved performance and even improved mileage makes it money well spent. Plus, you avoid any of the issues with diesel fuel.

Please note, I attached the links just to point out the products, You can order them one bottle at a time and its sold at most farm stores. These are the two brands I have used and like. There are other brands which are good also, but make sure to NEVER run any fuel additives which use any alcohol. One of the most popular products sold is the "911 Rescue" in the red bottle. Its designed to hold water in the diesel fuel instead of separating the water. This is strongly discouraged by engine and fuel system manufacturers because water is very abrasive and alcohol, the chemical used to hold the water in the diesel fuel, is very corrosive on fuel system components.

Below is a link to an article about the diesel engines in boats and dealing with water and fuel issues. It makes many very valid points and is written for the non chemist to read.......


https://www.amazon.com/Howes-HL306712-Meaner-Diesel-Cleaner/dp/B01N4UA972/ref=lp_8904032011_1_3?srs=8904032011&ie=UTF8&qid=1556281993&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Shots-Secret-P040416Z-Extreme/dp/B00IUGFZE2/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1O05PD8KXQ432&keywords=hot+shot+diesel+treatment&qid=1556282098&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+shot+diesel%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-26



https://www.proboat.com/2017/12/diesel-fuel-additives-part-1-myths-facts-warranties-water/
I agree, one would think a simple fuel gauge would be something that'd be guaranteed to be actuate on a $10k+ machine. On my previous 3320 it would read low fuel after burning about 3-4 gallons on a 10+ gallon tank. My 3039r seems to be a lot more accurate, but still not quite 100%. With the 3320 I was typically burning about 1 gal per hour, give or take, depending on the grass height. The 3039r seems about right in line with that, maybe a bit more due to the cab. I figured the x758 should be right under the 1 gal mark, same as your estimation.

Good point on the diesel additives. I've been running Power Service in all of my trucks and tractors since 2006 when they switched over to ULSD at the pumps. The first untreated tank I bought when into my 92' Dodge W250 with the 5.9 Cummins and caused the IP to develop a small dripping leak from a banjo bolt. Ever since then I've run an additive.

Rick
 
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