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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So what are your thoughts on breaking in a new tractor? There are a few schools of thought and I am interested in hearing them all.



My thoughts are:
  • Keep the RPMs up so you don't lug it, but avoid full throttle.
  • Run the machine for short times to get heat/cool cycles.
  • Don't put too much load on the machine for 15-20 hours.
  • No high speed transportation for 20 hours.
  • Check fluids after each use.
  • Change oil at 50 hours (I go to synthetic 0w40 JD oil)
What do you do, or not do?:munch:
 

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I park mine on a clean piece of cardboard to see if anything leaks. I do not run the engine at set speeds rather at varying speeds with light to moderate loads while the rings are setting. I changed the oil at 50 hours and again at 150 hrs. I check the front axle frequently since it is more prone to problems than anything else.
 

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Brian, I'd take Steve's "run engine at varying speeds" and add that to your list. Driving around using the autothrottle mode helps here too. I changed oil at 75 hours, went with Deere 15-40, but I don't live in the "arctic" like you do. I did stall my machine once when kicking in the MX6 with the E-PTO engaged but in general as you engage attachments you'll lug it briefly and it's all part of the break in.

Oh yeah, some might add this to the list: Go out and stare at it almost every day for the first week or two, give it a good coat of wax, and take pictures to post on you're favorite tractor forum web site." :laugh: Then again, maybee that's the break in period for the owner not the tractor :think:.

Pete
 

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+1 with Dave, not really sure anything special has to be done. Even my operators manual was sketchy on this. I am kind of the feeling that machinery and cars today are made under tighter specifications than they use to be. There are cars that come right from the factory with synthetic. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Well, I'm breaking in my new 3320 but since I got it near the end of the summer I haven't put many hours on it, only about 30 so far and they have been relatively gentle. I'll do the 50 hour hydro but I think I'll run it through the winter before I change the engine oil. I'm not worried about the extra hours before the change because it hasn't been pushed much. It get the varried speed but i also run it at top end now and then.

Rob
 

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Hmm, I guess i need to perform the 100 hour oil change soon.
 

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Well, varying loads and engine oil seem covered, how about hydraulic oil? On my Kubota B21 engine oil and hydraulic oil where changed at 50 hours. On my JD 4520 the 1st change of anything hydraulic is at 400 hours. I asked my dealer about it, and he said that as Deere gets experience with various product lines, it tweaks the service requirements based on past performance. He goes off the the Deere Mother Ship once a year and said these sorts of things come up.

Around here (central North Carolina) most folks use straight JD HyGard (not low viscosity). I run low viscosity in my JD 318 because I use it for snow removal, and wonder sometimes if I should have put in regular HyGard for the past heavy cutting. But I digress- My current plan is to follow the owners manual regarding the 400 hours _except_ that when I'm at about 2.5 years into ownership I'll change the hydro fluid before the warranty runs out. I've thought about changing just the hydro oil filter, but that would be a "how fast can you spin" game...

What does everyone do regarding break-n and transmission oil/filters ?

Pete
 

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What does everyone do regarding break-n and transmission oil/filters ?
I changed my Hydro oil at 100 hours...here in the wilds (cold) of Maine we need the Lo-Vis. Changed the filter, cleaned the inline screen and put all new JD oil in. I kept the old JD Factory fill oil to use for things like Log Splitters, chaincases, etc. The oil is still new. When I put it into brand new pails I strained it with a Automotive Paint strainer.....2 purposes...to see if I had any metal in there and to ensure clean oil for future use.
I think the 100 hour Trans oil change is more to clean out chips and debris then it is because the oil is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I changed my last 3720 at 50 hours only because I was having issues with the hydrolics. The fluid and filter were next to perfect. I will change this tractor at 200 hours unless I have some reason to do it sooner.
 

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Hi Pete,

How's the solar? I'm just adding to mine, I went from one VFX3648 Outback to two and I'm getting another MX60 MTTP for my windmills.

I follow the book on engine oil changes but I also use common sense. If I haven't changed the engine oil in awhile, I'll change it even though the hours aren't up. The trannny I just follow the book.

You must be in the western mountains if you're getting snow down there.

Rob
 

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I do oil annually on tractors, small engines, cars and the generator.

Rob, solar is doing fine. From Aug. 11 to tonight, I've made 2.88 MWH. The array has averaged providing 57% of the energy I use. With the swing into the cooler weather (and less heat pump cooling) I've been running around 75-80% of use. At 65% of my energy use, all of my electric bill is covered (get 16 cents per hour, pay 10 cents per hour). Of course, during daylight hours we make way more than we use.

Pete
 

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I changed out the hydraulic oil and filters for the second time in my 110tlb last month and it has about 715 hrs on itl Plan on changing my 4520 for the first time this winter or before 250hrs. I check the front axle everytime I check the fluids which is about once a week in heavy use and once a month or before use in the winter months.

My 820 will get new fluids, filters when I refurbish it this winter. I plan on making it look like new for next spring which will require about $750 and four days or so of work. I estimate this tractor has about 1600 hrs total on it but is over 35 years old.
 

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Steve, tnx for feedback, sounds like I'll be on a similar "1st hydro fluid change" schedule on my 4520.

My B21 is due for new hydro fluids. Last time, I had the shop that hauled it in after I flipped it change the oil. I've been thinking of getting this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422329_200422329

since the B21 is so low to the ground. B21 and 4520 are about 10 gallons of fluid. At $136 it's cheaper than two trips to any shop. Any thoughts?

Rob: I'm closer to Raleigh. We get snow here about every 3-5 years. Love solar power, just not into solar snow removal :laugh:. So the blade on the 318 is a big win. As for the blower, that was an expensive whim. I had to argue with the dealer to get it. He said the last one he sold was 15 years ago and that was to a Yankee too. Well, I ordered it, got it in, and 3 months later (this was in 2000) we got a record 23" of snow. Used it twice since then, pretty much need more than 8" to justify it, with the gravel drive it's tricky to use. Dealer called a few weeks after that record snow to apologize for giving me grief about getting it, and said that if I every ordered a boat could I give him a call so he could start heading to high ground :creep:.

Pete
 

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Pete,
Looks handy to me and cheaper than a trip to the dealer for me. My dealer is 75 miles away through the mountains, I would rather save that time and expense for things I can't handle.
 

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How is the filter removed from the line? Is the dark nut to the right of G supposed to be loosened? Also, once the filter is apart, do you replace the o-rings or just reuse them for assembly?

I"m a newbie when it comes to tractor maintenance, and will be doing my first 50 hour service on it.


According to the manual the way to clean or replace this filter is:

a. Position drain pan under (G)
b. Remove filter from lines
c. Remove nut (H) with internal element from case.
d. Clean case and internal element with a mild solvent
Allow to dry
e. Assemble and install hydraulic filter assembly

 

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How is the filter removed from the line? Is the dark nut to the right of G supposed to be loosened?
Yes, the nuts on both ends are loosened and the entire assembly (G) is removed...you then loosen the nut on the end of G and the filter/screen is inside there.

Also, once the filter is apart, do you replace the o-rings or just reuse them for assembly?
Yep, no problem reusing them as long as they arent damaged.


I"m a newbie when it comes to tractor maintenance, and will be doing my first 50 hour service on it.


According to the manual the way to clean or replace this filter is:

a. Position drain pan under (G)
b. Remove filter from lines
c. Remove nut (H) with internal element from case.
d. Clean case and internal element with a mild solvent
Allow to dry
e. Assemble and install hydraulic filter assembly
Sounds about right. i did mine when I did the Trans oil change at 100hrs. There is some debate on when you should do the first Hyd/Trans oil change. I went 100 hours...BUT I did the Engine at 50.
 
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