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Howdie from washington, you guys know your stuff! Just got this tractor, at first i thought head gasket but im not loosing coolant and oil looks fine. Compression test showed 150 on one side and 180 on the other. It ran like it was loosing a cylinder, but after a little seafoam it got better. New plugs and good spark, ran a complete new fuel line, new fuel pump. Is the vent line from the fuel pump supposed to go to carb vent? There is no vent going back to tank. So it ran pretty good till now, ithas to be all the way choked and wont idle. Im going to go do the carb. Rebuild kit right now and hope that helps. Thanks you guys for any ideas you may have, searching for a service/repair manual if anyone knows where i could download maybe, thanks! Oh and if anyone needs help with electrical, im a journeyman electrician for 16yrs now, happy to help. Thanks guys, stay cool!?
 

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Vent line on carb just hangs down long enough to go lower than muffler. Tank is vented thru the gas tank cap. Get a couple inline spark testers and hook em up to observe the spark on each cylinder.
The carbs come apart well and clean up easy.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia

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:wgtt: from Texas . Keep us posted with your progress !!!
 

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Use a good screw driver when removing the jets. Cheap tools cause expensive problems. You may get away with reusing the gaskets on the carb. Hopefully it's just a stuck ring on the cylinder pushing 150psi
 

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Use a good screw driver when removing the jets. Cheap tools cause expensive problems. You may get away with reusing the gaskets on the carb. Hopefully it's just a stuck ring on the cylinder pushing 150psi
Back in the day you could buy a special tool to change jets. I haven't seen one in years. lol

I would agree that cheep tools are hard on fasteners. Not only screw drivers but sockets and wrenches as well.

However I won't agree on the gaskets. Use the carb kit.
 

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Welcome!! From the research I have done while slowly working on my LX178, the kawasaki engines are known to have carbs that are very sensitive to any dirt. So regarding no idle & having to choke it to run I think you are on the right track with the carb rebuild kit.

The 150 psi cylinder may need some more detective work though.
 

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Back in the day you could buy a special tool to change jets. I haven't seen one in years. lol

I would agree that cheep tools are hard on fasteners. Not only screw drivers but sockets and wrenches as well.

However I won't agree on the gaskets. Use the carb kit.
I guess it comes down to personal experience. Between last June and now I probably broke down and cleaned 40-50 carbs from mowers, generators, saws and outboards. In a majority of the cases the gaskets were reusable. Unless the gaskets fail there is no need to replace unless damaged when removed and even with damage rtv works wonders. A simple bench test of the carb will tell you if your rebuild didn't work.

People who ask why you paid $200 for an 8 piece screwdriver set probably donot work on motors however hanging pictures while your wife is standing behind you saying "higher" "lower" is harder than honing a cylinder by hand.
 

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If that carb is the one I think it is. There are two jets in the throat of the carb. They are easily overlooked. Those are the ones that varnish easy and are probably the cause of your idle issue. Unless you have an ultrasonic cleaner they have to be cleaned with a wire. Be careful not to enlarge the jets.
 

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I have a spare carb for those times when a speck of dirt clogs the jets. My fuel pump started shedding bits and clogged the carb after a few minutes until I found the problem. New pump and clean card and the 21 year old LX178 is hard at it.
 

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I have a LX186 that I just acquired which is similar to yours. Ditto on repair/service manual as I plan on carb service and a crankcase gasket job in the near future. If anyone knows how to find one, it would be of great value.:bigthumb:
 

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