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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently acquired a 2150 in need of serious tlc. This is my 1st tractor project, so stumbling with what are probably pretty simple issues. Current problem is the radiator. Not sure if it is correct one or if something is positioned wrong. The draincock is blocked by the hydraulic pump mount and i have zero room to remove hydraulic tank and air filter housing. I got them removed, but it literally took some serious contortions and prayers. Ok, the actual question is, how is the radiator actually supposed to be secured? Mine has no padding like the parts book indicates and the one bolt that did exist had the spring underneath the tractor frame. Should the pads elevate the radiator so the drain is above the hydraulic pump? And where do the springs go and what tension should they have. Should the radiator when properly mounted have the ability to move back and forth? Sorry for being long winded. Ive already learned a lot from you guys. Great site.
 

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Welcome to GTT
Spring fits under tractor frame. Key 12 is a washer & key 18 is listed as a pad which radiator mount/oil cooler resting on pads. I think radiator mounting bolts should be snug against spring & no radiator bolt torque is listed in my JD 2040 tech manual. Bracket(key 3) should stabilize radiator from moving fore & aft
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to GTT
Spring fits under tractor frame. Key 12 is a washer & key 18 is listed as a pad which radiator mount/oil cooler resting on pads. I think radiator mounting bolts should be snug against spring & no radiator bolt torque is listed in my JD 2040 tech manual. Bracket(key 3) should stabilize radiator from moving fore & aft
Thanks for the quick response Tx Jim. No doubt this is a replacement radiator, so i was concerned it may not be the appropriate one since the draincock is behind the hyd pump mount and is impossible to open. The radiator would have to be raised about an inch to provide proper clearance. I assume that would be accomplished by inserting the pads. Do you know how thick they are? I’m finding out that this detective work is part of the enjoyment of this project. Did i forget to mention that this tractor hasnot run for quite some time and had water (and other things) in the oil and fuel? I did get it to turn over, but dont want to throw a bunch of cash at this until i am reasonably sure it is worth it. By the way,even though i am frugal, i figure a good portion of my time, effort and money going into this project will be well spent for the knowledge i gain. Thanks in advance to any and all for your advice and guidance.
 

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You're welcome. Several yrs ago some JD parts specs were available on JD parts site if one knew correct method for checking for spec's BUT JD updated their parts site & eliminated this feature. Importantly fan needs to fit in shroud without touching & hood must clear radiator. Water in crankcase could be caused by several things such as faulty piston liners, liner sealing 0-rings,head gasket or cyl head. Does tractor have vertical or horizontal muffler? If water is in the fuel I strongly advise to add bio-cide to the fuel to help control any possible fungus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You're welcome. Several yrs ago some JD parts specs were available on JD parts site if one knew correct method for checking for spec's BUT JD updated their parts site & eliminated this feature. Importantly fan needs to fit in shroud without touching & hood must clear radiator. Water in crankcase could be caused by several things such as faulty piston liners, liner sealing 0-rings,head gasket or cyl head. Does tractor have vertical or horizontal muffler? If water is in the fuel I strongly advise to add bio-cide to the fuel to help control any possible fungus.
Muffler was gone. This thing sat for several years in the weather. Pretty sure water in oil was from broken off dipstick tube and maybe through pistons from broken exhaust manifold. Fuel cap was missing, thus water in fuel. I know it did run, but was just abandoned. I got it cheap and i know some of the history, otherwise i wouldn’t t both with it. On the subject of missing muffler, the flange on the cast iron exhaust manifold that attaches to muffler broke off. Assuming i get this thing to run, how long is it safe to do so without the muffler and stack? Taking baby steps before i start spending money. Fyi, i already cleaned out fuel tank & lines.
 

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You can operate engine without a mufflers as long as your eardrums can tolerate the noise. Will engine crankshaft rotate?
 

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I am not sure if the foam pads are to support the radiator or are just to seal and force air to be pulled through the radiator.
It does sound like the drain location is due to aftermarket radiator, not mounting height.
 

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If pads in question are foam & not rubber then I agree that they are designed to block air flow not cushion radiator.
 

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Washer #12 is rubber washers that the radiator sits on. They are listed at .220" thick all the other pads are foam and used to seal air from being pulled around radiator to keep dirt out of radiator fins. Clearances are always tight between radiator, reservoir and fuel tank. Many times the front "grille" gets pushed back and makes things even tighter. Back vertical edge of grille needs to be at right angles to top of cast frame. You can check that with a carpenters square. If not pull it forward with a come along or similar device to get clearances where they belong. It won't help with your misplaced drain but other overall clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Washer #12 is rubber washers that the radiator sits on. They are listed at .220" thick all the other pads are foam and used to seal air from being pulled around radiator to keep dirt out of radiator fins. Clearances are always tight between radiator, reservoir and fuel tank. Many times the front "grille" gets pushed back and makes things even tighter. Back vertical edge of grille needs to be at right angles to top of cast frame. You can check that with a carpenters square. If not pull it forward with a come along or similar device to get clearances where they belong. It won't help with your misplaced drain but other overall clearances.
Thanks JD110. Grill was pushed in slightly. I wouldn’t have thought it was far enough to cause me the trouble it did with lack of clearance with everything, but apparently that was the case. Learning as i go. I would be clueless without this site. Thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Zebrafive, thanks again for your suggestions. I found time again yesterday to start working on my 2150 and you were correct about the grill being pushed in too far. With the help of my orange bx23s and come along, i was able to get the grill reasonably back into proper position. I will get a 1/4” pipe nipple to extend out the radiator draincock and hopefully get this thing to fire up shortly.
785025
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow, do I have a headache! So I went to the hardware store to get a 6” piece of pipe to extend the draincock past the hydraulic pump. I found a brass pipe that has tapered threads. Does anyone know if that is compatible with the female radiator threads? The hardware guy said it would work, but I am unsure. When I googled it, I got more info on the various thread patterns available than I ever wanted to know and am more confused than ever. I appreciate any practical advice y’all can offer. Also, what sealant to use, if any? Thanks.
 

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Thanks to JD parts site update most part # spec's access has been denied to all except JD & dealer employees. I think that the male threads on that filling is 1/4'' NPT
 

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Sometimes JD parts does give a little info. Remarks says 1/4". I take that as 1/4" NPT pipe threads.
Product Font Line Screenshot Bicycle frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again for the good info. And if I remember my google schooling correctly, NPT stands for National Pipe Taper, so looks like I’m good to go.
 
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