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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

So although the x758 is only at 37 hours, I was going to do the 1st 50 hour service because the tractor was purchased fall 2016, and its been over the year threshold even though under 50 hours slightly.

So, I need some help because im not a mechanic by any means and would like to take care of this GT myself.

I was a little bit confused with the manual, they call the transaxle oil, and the hydraulic oil basically the same thing??
So let me try firstly by saying what I am going to do

Engine Oil:
Change engine oil (3.2L) and engine oil filter
(store gave me 3 940ml bottles of 15W-40 JD Plus-50 II) but I am pretty sure in New England a 5W-40 or even a 0W-40 would be more ideal than 15W-40??) I will be using this for light mowing and snow removal in winter) So I was going to go with either 0W-40 or 5W-40...thoughts...?

Transaxle Oil Change:
So I have the full-time 4WD system, so I got confused with the combined use of the term hydraulic oil at the front and transaxle oil in the rear, but it sounds like its a shared system so I was going to have on hand the Transaxle oil filter, and minimum 12L of John Deere Low Vis Hy-Gard J20D as per the manual it takes this oil and 11.8L of it.
From the sounds of it if you dont change the front and rear together they will mix and contaminate the old and new so do both together.

Other Equipment:
Buy two 2 Tonne jacks for the Front
I already have a hydraulic jack to raise the front of the GT
A skinny hydraulic funnel for filling the front hydraulic filler plug
Oil containers
Usual wrenches and oil filter wrench

Greasing:
After the above I was going to grease all the grease points with the JD lithium grease I have and grease gun and clean the air screen

Coolant:
I did notice the coolant is low when the GT is off and cold.....but no mention in the service schedule to fill this I think until 200+ hours.

Any help as always would be greatly appreciated.
I did buy a LG260 maintenance kit from Mutton Power, but it didn't have the correct oil, and an insufficient amount of oil, along with other parts that are not even advised to be changed like fuel filter, and new inner and outer air filters....

Thanks guys!
:greentractorride:
 

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Hi guys,

So although the x758 is only at 37 hours, I was going to do the 1st 50 hour service because the tractor was purchased fall 2016, and its been over the year threshold even though under 50 hours slightly.

So, I need some help because im not a mechanic by any means and would like to take care of this GT myself.

I was a little bit confused with the manual, they call the transaxle oil, and the hydraulic oil basically the same thing??
So let me try firstly by saying what I am going to do

Engine Oil:
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
(store gave me 15W-40 JD Plus-50 II) but I am pretty sure in New England a 5W-40 or even a 0W-40 would be more ideal than 15W-40??) I will be using this for light mowing and snow removal in winter) So I was going to go with either 0W-40 or 5W-40...thoughts...?

Transaxle Oil Change:
So I have the full-time 4WD system, so I got confused with the combined use of the term hydraulic oil at the front and transaxle oil in the rear, but it sounds like its a shared system so I was going to have on hand the Transaxle oil filter, and minimum 12L of John Deere Low Vis Hy-Gard J20D as per the manual it takes this oil and 11.8L of it.
From the sounds of it if you dont change the front and rear together they will mix and contaminate the old and new so do both together.

Other Equipment:
Buy two 2 Tonne jacks for the Front
I already have a hydraulic jack to raise the front of the GT
A skinny hydraulic funnel for filling the front hydraulic filler plug
Oil containers
Usual wrenches and oil filter wrench

Greasing:
After the above I was going to grease all the grease points with the JD lithium grease I have and grease gun and clean the air screen

Coolant:
I did notice the coolant is low when the GT is off and cold.....but no mention in the service schedule to fill this I think until 200+ hours.

Any help as always would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys!
:greentractorride:
If it had Cool-Gard II in it(will be Yellow In color) Not Lime Green Then it is good for 6 years or 6000 Hours. When it's cold should be between the Low & High Line In the coolant overflow Tank :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well....Im glad I did my 50 hour service early, no transaxle oil in the rear, none detectible on the dipstick back there.
There was some on the walls, I mean when you insert remove a few times youd get a drop somewhere but nothing on the dipstick....

Can someone clarify, it says at 50 hours change the transaxle oil and filter only (ie not the front hydraulic also). However with this screw up I found above I might just go ahead and do the front hydraulic oil change also, as its been over a year, even if not at 200 hours.

This is crazy, hard to believe they would let it leave the factory, and then the store like that and nothing picked up....just a word of warning for you all
:banghead:

Rear Wheel Torque:
Are they just saying to make sure the rear wheel lug nuts are as tight as 65 lb/foot?
(its in the manual to check)

Grease Points:
Also, how many grease points are there on the front/mid/rear? The manual doesn't actually show them all.
I can only find 4 total on the tractor itself. (2 on each front wheel)

Coolant:
Yellow in color, but even when cold the coolant is BELOW the minimum line on the coolant tank
 

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Hi guys,

So although the x758 is only at 37 hours, I was going to do the 1st 50 hour service because the tractor was purchased fall 2016, and its been over the year threshold even though under 50 hours slightly.
Well....Im glad I did my 50 hour service early, no transaxle oil in the rear, none detectible on the dipstick back there.
There was some on the walls, I mean when you insert remove a few times youd get a drop somewhere but nothing on the dipstick....
This is definitely concerning. Do you think that it was left unfilled, or filled incorrectly, from the service department that prepared the tractor? I wonder how long it's been empty. I will definitely check my levels when I take delivery of my x758.
 

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I know what I'm about to say some will flip out over but I change my engine oil every 50 hours which ends up being 2 times a year.Three quarts and a filter is cheap insurance to me.I use the 15w 40 year around.
As far as grease fittings go one rule of thumb is to look for moving parts.ex.u joints,steering linkage,axle pivot.
 

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Others who have recently purchased X7 tractors have been reporting that their transaxles were low on oil. Curious/sad that the dealers are not catching that before sending new machines out the door.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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The front and rear Trans is all in one (same oil ) you fill the front axle first then the back trans after the tractor is run a little it will be a little low . The front Axle has two hoses that run it (I comes from the back Axle) after an hour if you check the oil it will be low once the air is out of the lines . Normal for it to be low when new Mine took 8 oz to full
 

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Yep I was one of them with an X739 that wasn't detectable on the stick. I filled a few weeks back and its low yet again.:unknown:

Others who have recently purchased X7 tractors have been reporting that their transaxles were low on oil. Curious/sad that the dealers are not catching that before sending new machines out the door.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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When the rear hydraulic fluid if not detectable on the stick, it is a LONG WAY from being empty.....

The dip sticks on these only measure the last quart or maybe quart and a half, tops.

So, when the dipstick is not showing any fluid, it's doesn't mean it's actually Empty. The tractor won't move without HYdro Oil.

As far as your questions about the motor oil the 15w 40 is good for summer use and the 5w or 10w is ideal for winter use.

Once you complete this first service, consider changing the oil in the spring after the winter use and in the fall, after mowing season. Oil changes are easy and inexpensive and you will be a pro at changing the oil by time we are done......

Now, what were your other questions?
 

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When the rear hydraulic fluid if not detectable on the stick, it is a LONG WAY from being empty.....

The dip sticks on these only measure the last quart or maybe quart and a half, tops.

So, when the dipstick is not showing any fluid, it's doesn't mean it's actually Empty. The tractor won't move without HYdro Oil.

As far as your questions about the motor oil the 15w 40 is good for summer use and the 5w or 10w is ideal for winter use.

Once you complete this first service, consider changing the oil in the spring after the winter use and in the fall, after mowing season. Oil changes are easy and inexpensive and you will be a pro at changing the oil by time we are done......

Now, what were your other questions?

X2

:munch:
 

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Well....Im glad I did my 50 hour service early, no transaxle oil in the rear, none detectible on the dipstick back there.
There was some on the walls, I mean when you insert remove a few times youd get a drop somewhere but nothing on the dipstick....

Can someone clarify, it says at 50 hours change the transaxle oil and filter only (ie not the front hydraulic also). However with this screw up I found above I might just go ahead and do the front hydraulic oil change also, as its been over a year, even if not at 200 hours.

Help me understand what you are calling the "front" hydraulic oil and the transaxle oil. There is only one hydraulic system on the entire machine and its all connected.
Are you referring to the front axle oil and then the oil in the main, rear system? Have you removed the rear drain plug and filter for the hydraulic oil? Make sure you have a LARGE pan to catch all of the oil as there is probably close to 3 gallons of oil in the entire system. Once the system has drained, make sure to let the drips run for several minutes, replace the drain plug and tighten per the manual. DO NOT over tighten.

Also, it's very important that when you remove the original hydraulic filter, make sure to inspect the surface where the oil filter was mounted to make sure the original rubber O ring comes off with the original filter and the surface is clean. Sometimes, if the machine hasbeen in service for some time like yours has, the O ring might stay on the housing, causing the new filter install to leak. You don't want this to happen.

If the O ring came off with the filter and the surace is clean put a little oil, maybe 1/2 full, into the NEW FILTER. Thread the new filter onto the housing and then once the new filter o ring makes contact with the housing surface, tighten the filter another 1/4 turn.

Since this is your first time, it's hard to get the orientation down on filter rotation. So, once the new filter is "snug", make a mark with a bright color marker on the filter and the housing, just enough for you to see. Then rotate the filter with either a filter wrench or a strap wrench until the filter has turned another 1/4 of a full turn.

I strongly suggest you get a two quart plastic kitchen measuring container. Fill the measueing container and count them, dumping them into the rear hydraulic fill. DO NOT just pour into the housing from the jugs or you might over fill and it is very difficult and messy to extract the excess oil. NEVER over fill any hydraulic drive assembly.

When you are within one quart of the actual total capacity, keep checking the dip stick as you add another 1/2 pint of oil. Sneak up on reaching the full level. You will be glad you did it this way.

Once it's full, start up the tractor to check the hydro level and make sure there are no leaks from either the drain plug or the hydro filter. Let the machine run for a couple of minutes and take a clean paper towel and wipe the new filter and around the drain plub to make sure there are no leaks.

If there are drips, wipe them and run it again, as they might be from when you emptied it. If it continues to leak, snug up the filter another 1/8th of a turn (remember the marks you made earlier? Use them). If the drain plug is leaking, make sure it is torques correctly. Then you should have "No runs, No Drips and No Errors"....

This is crazy, hard to believe they would let it leave the factory, and then the store like that and nothing picked up....just a word of warning for you all
:banghead:

Rear Wheel Torque:
Are they just saying to make sure the rear wheel lug nuts are as tight as 65 lb/foot? YES, use a torque wrench and an extension to do this correctly. Check them in a cross pattern. Do the one at 1 oclock first, then the one at 7pm, then the one at 11pm, then 4pm then the remaining wheel bolts. Torque to 65 FOOT POUNDS, make sure to set your wrench correctly.
(its in the manual to check)

Grease Points:
Also, how many grease points are there on the front/mid/rear? The manual doesn't actually show them all.
I can only find 4 total on the tractor itself. (2 on each front wheel)

There are grease points on the mower deck and on the front steering, under the tractor. I do not think there are any grease fittings on the rear of your tractor that come to mind.

Coolant:
Yellow in color, but even when cold the coolant is BELOW the minimum line on the coolant tank
See my answers above in red....

Pick up a gallon jug of the coolant for your tractor from the dealer. NEVER mix coolant brands or types. Get the coolant from the dealer for YOUR tractor, add a little and run it and watch the over flow tank. It won't take much coolant to bring it up to the level needed.
 

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Yep I was one of them with an X739 that wasn't detectable on the stick. I filled a few weeks back and its low yet again.:unknown:
Every time you connect anything to the tractor, especially a new tractor, you have to fill the hydraulic lines with hydraulic "Low Viscosity" fluid. If you have a front quick attach mount for a snow blade, dirt blade, snow blower, front broom, etc. those 4 lines and any angle and lift cylinders take some hydro oil to fill.

Don't panic the oil was low. It's a function of getting the air out of the new system and also these various lines and connections and cylinders, etc.

Check your hydro oil often, its a good habit to be in. Check your engine oil just as often, Its also a good habit to be in.

No one ever harmed a thing checking the oil levels too often.

Many people have harmed a lot of stuff by not checking the oil levels more often......

For peace of mind, if you are NOT seeing oil spots on the floor, your machine is NOT leaking oil, either Low Viscosity Hydro oil or engine oil. It's just a matter of getting all the new lines and hoses filled.

Once you fill the hoses on say the front hitch or a front end loader, then the levels will remain pretty constant until you connect the next new implement.

Don't panic, this is a normal part of the process.......

Your dealer very well may have checked the hydro oil and it was fine, until the new lines and hoses with the attachment were hooked up.

Like I said, take a deep breath and everything will be OK.........It's not the end of the world and it's not necessarily that the dealer ignored it either. Its as I described......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey guys

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't reply because I signed up for instant alerts and I didnt get any alerts and when I logged back in after I got a PM I saw a bunch of replies.
So thanks very much this is all very helpful.

Just on the engine oil....., is 0W-40 ok to use for summer and winter? I looked at the temperature chart and it seems ok at both ends of the temp ranges here in New England, so unless someone has any strong opinion on 0W-40 versus 15W-40 for the summer then please let me know!

Otherwise all is well and on Friday I will give her a nice overhaul!

Any idea locally where you guys get all your supplies? I have to order online, im not too close to any Deere dealer

For the Cool Gard II coolant, assuming that, that is what is in my x758 (yellow color), I will order up the pre-made coolant and just top it up a bit
 

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Hey guys

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't reply because I signed up for instant alerts and I didnt get any alerts and when I logged back in after I got a PM I saw a bunch of replies.
So thanks very much this is all very helpful.

Just on the engine oil....., is 0W-40 ok to use for summer and winter? I looked at the temperature chart and it seems ok at both ends of the temp ranges here in New England, so unless someone has any strong opinion on 0W-40 versus 15W-40 for the summer then please let me know!

Otherwise all is well and on Friday I will give her a nice overhaul!

Any idea locally where you guys get all your supplies? I have to order online, im not too close to any Deere dealer

For the Cool Gard II coolant, assuming that, that is what is in my x758 (yellow color), I will order up the pre-made coolant and just top it up a bit
Good idea with the coolant.

Don't forget to check your inner and outer air filter, especially when mowing. These are important to keep clean and for the engine to run properly.


If you order Deere supplies from the GTT sponsors, you can get discounts, so consider using the Green parts and supporting those who support GTT with their sponsorship.

I found an excellent drain pan for the hydro system. I got it on Amazon and it's large enough to catch all the fluid and easy to pour into another container for recycling. You can use it as a drain pan for anything, just clean it between uses.

Here is the drain pan I use and like. I have tried many over the year and for one reason or another, they didn't work well, this one certainly does.

IMG_20171229_141029600.jpg

It's BIG, but my tractor also holds a lot of hydro fluid.....30 quarts is 7.5 GALLONS of fluid. But you don't have to fill it, you just want the container to hold all the oil and allow you to pour it into a recycle container without slopping it all over yourself, etc. This pan is strong, doesn't flex and spill like others. But you would need an extra set of hands were it full of 7.5 gallons of oil or any fluid and you were emptying it.

You want to to be able to get under the rear end of the tractor to catch the drain plus as well as the oil when removing the hydro filter and this one does the trick.....

Also, just FYI, you can use the 0w oil year around. Personally, I don't like using 0w oil in the summer heat....but that's me.

You may want to consider switching to a Full Synthetic Diesel oil as it is the best oil for these small diesel engines, in my opinion. There is a lot of discussion about oils and everyone has an opinion. I can tell you that using the Deere oil will be perfectly fine. Is it the VERT BEST oil for the engine? In my opinion, it's very good, but its not the BEST.

But you know the old saying, opinions are like "a" holes, everyone has one and some people act like one.........:laugh::lol:

I prefer to use Amsoil, Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel motor oil. Here is a link to what I use. If you are interested, read about the oil and it's engineered differences. As I said, using the Deere oil is fine. I just think using the Very Best diesel engine oil is a small price to pay for the best oil protection.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-5w-40/?code=DEOQT-EA

I also run this product in all of my vehicles. I used to build and race top alcohol dragsters and Pro Mod Cars where the engines could cost up to $80,000 each. So, protecting them and reducing wear was critical. I found this product did an amazing job at helping to reduce friction.

Some don't believe in these products, some do. I do. To each their own. All I know is I have SEEN measurable difference with my own eyes. I mean the type of micrometer measurements which demonstrate that two identical engines, one with prolong and one without, experience different component wear on rotational components like valve train, cylinder walls, bearing, etc. It's not "hocus pocus", its simply better lubrication with a top quality oil and reduced friction, with a metal treatment product like Prolong.

In fact, between the Amsoil oil and the Prolong in my new tractor, it's quieter than other Yanmar engines in the same tractor. It has less "diesel knocking" and I measured it with a digital sound meter. Also, the engine now idles a little faster, about 75 RPMS, likely due to the reduced friction. The John Deere technician was surprised in the difference in my tractor's engine with the approach of using these products. He said he could "hear" the difference in my engine and he works on these all day long. He said it ran smoother and has less noise than "normal". Read about them and make your own decision. Personally, I think it's money well spent.

I am such a believer it buy it gallons and use it in everything I own. But again, it's not a requirement, it's simply a suggestion.

No, I am not selling these products nor am I a distributor, I don't even own stock in these companies, but now that I think about it, I will certainly look into their stock if they are public companies.

Main thing is to read and learn for yourself and make your own decision. There are many "Snake Oil" products out there. But there are also some that truly work. These work as does the old stand by "Sea Foam". Seen it myself, many, many times.......

But read Federal Trade Commission Websites about many of the snake oil products which do exist and there are many. It's amazing the irony which exists some times that are just random occurrences. For example, the head of the Federal Trade Commissioner who investigates possible consumer fraud was for awhile, a guy who's last name was "Swindle".......Swindle was the FTC Chairman. What are the odds of getting someone with THAT last name to head THAT Federal Agency? Pretty funny, and amazing, really.

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My experience backs up what has been said above. i.e. It isn't that critical that the hydro fluid is not registering on the dipstick, it is not unusual for it to go low after attaching new implements, and check it often. I changed my fluid last year. Checked it by the book, meaning to fill, run it a bit, let it sit, check again, repeat. It was perfectly full. Then last fall I made a hydraulic dump for my MC519 cart and hooked that up. After using that a bit I checked the fluid again and it wasn't registering on the dipstick. Took another 8-16 ounces (can't recall) to fill it back up. No leaks so that isn't the issue. My x758 was also delivered with fluid barely registering and the service manager assured me that it is not critical to be a bit low for a while.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey Everyone,

So i finally got some time today to just get this done. I did the complete 200 hour service, eventhough im at 37 hours, but I have had the GT just over a year.

The engine oil change is a piece of cake, stupid location for a filter of all the places, but I am glad I had my filter wrench, BOTH small and large versions today. The engine oil was already looking a bit dark, glad I changed it.

The hydraulic oil change I did the rear transaxle and front hydraulic, at first I emptied the rear and I was wondering if I shouldnt have bothered as the oil was clean as could be, but then oddly I changed out the front and it was darker.
I have put the full amounts of hydraulic low viscosity in the front and then the rear and its still not registering on the dipstick, so I am a bit more relieved now that with about 3 gallons in there, that it doesnt pick up on the stick.

While I was at it I greased all the grease points on the GT, I can still only find a total of 4, two on each front wheel. AM I MISSING ANY MORE???? I couldnt find them on the front or rear PTO!

I also while the deck was off sharpened the blades, checked the deck gear oil level, greased all the points on the deck, there was about 6 total here, and torqued the rear wheels to 75, and the blades to 50.

Some advice I can give while this is still fresh,

probably best to do this at a time of year like spring when done with snow and removing attachments and about to put on the deck, because itll just make your life so much easier and efficient.

Postion the jackets as close to the center away from the outside wheels to give yourself room for wrenching off the nuts

Have plenty of oil buckets for oil waste, I found that two cans of empty coffee containers were perfect for the front wheel. instead of slamming off the oil nuts and oil shooting out just slowly remove it, hold it on the edge to slow it initially and when youve emptied Niagara Falls initially then fully remove it, for the engine oil though this will be hot so wear thick gloves or something

Have a large and small oil filter wrench, theres no way your getting them off with your hands.

Usual wrenches needed etc , but also a 10mm Hex/Allen wrench is needed, an impact driver helps remove stubborn bolts on the deck, and torque wrench is needed for the wheels and deck blades.

I topped up the coolant while at it, had to buy a whole gallon for maybe using 50ml.

Thats about it, it took me close to 3-4 hours to do all the above, im sure now that ive done it once could do it in 1.5h or so, but this isnt my field or anything so more of a bit of hobby mechanics in the garage on a Saturday....

Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Yes, you're missing a few grease zirks. Here are the ones on my x758:

- Ends of steering ram
- Steering ball joints each side
- Front axle pivot (above center of axle from front end). Hard to see.
- Two zerks on mid PTO driveshaft (one on each side of joint at same point in rear)
- Three zerks on mower driveshaft (one on each end and one in middle)

So, 5 on the front axle area and then the 5 on the two driveshafts. I don't believe the manual is accurate about all the locations. The ones on the trans driveshaft are a bit tricky. You can only see one at a time and then you have to hope things lined up enough to get a hose on it. It may be that there are two just because it is hard to get anything lined up, but I grease both just to be sure. If you can't see it just start the engine for a second and turn it off to hope when the shaft stops spinning you get a better angle. With the mower PTO driveshaft it helps to turn it and angle it down steeply to get to the back one.

Rob
 

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Yes, you're missing a few grease zirks. Here are the ones on my x758:

- Ends of steering ram
- Steering ball joints each side
- Front axle pivot (above center of axle from front end). Hard to see.
- Two zerks on mid PTO driveshaft (one on each side of joint at same point in rear)
- Three zerks on mower driveshaft (one on each end and one in middle)

So, 5 on the front axle area and then the 5 on the two driveshafts. I don't believe the manual is accurate about all the locations. The ones on the trans driveshaft are a bit tricky. You can only see one at a time and then you have to hope things lined up enough to get a hose on it. It may be that there are two just because it is hard to get anything lined up, but I grease both just to be sure. If you can't see it just start the engine for a second and turn it off to hope when the shaft stops spinning you get a better angle. With the mower PTO driveshaft it helps to turn it and angle it down steeply to get to the back one.

Rob

You can also just barely click the key, without trying to start it. Briefly bump the key and then turn it right off. Just a little movement of the engine flywheel moves the driveshaft significantly.

With the deck removed, you can see the driveshaft. Without the deck removed, forget it. It runs from the center rear of the pulley on the back of the Yanmar to the front of the rear hydro static unit. The entire driveshaft is about 24" long. It's tucked way up there between the tractors frame rails.

I have a brand new driveshaft for the gas engine x7 series......... if anyone ever needs one......It's a long story. :banghead:

Also, you can use a flywheel wrench if you have one to turn the flywheel slightly. Its very easy and the safest way to rotate the assembly.

The driveshaft in these tractors spins all of the time when the engine is running, not just when the tractors moving like the driveshaft in a car. The reason is, the engine is spinning the "transmission", which is actually mounted on the front of the rear hydro static unit, even when the tractor is not moving. As long as the engine is running, it's spinning the hydro static drive transmission even with the brake locked and the tractor going no where. It's a function of how its built.

While you are under the tractor, apply some grease to the male PTO shaft which drives the MMM and front drive implements. It makes attaching the shaft driven implements much easier. So, when you remove the mower deck in the fall to install your front drive kit for a snow thrower, grease the shaft and it makes attaching the long front driveshaft MUCH easier. Same with when you remove the front quick attach hitch and the snow removal equipment and are attaching the mowing deck. It will save you some frustration.....

A greased shaft is a happy shaft and finds it proper connection easier and with less struggle and discomfort.......After all, It's uncomfortable to lie on the ground and reach up under the tractor to attach the shafts to the Mid PTO Drive shaft stub with the deck there.......):dunno::flag_of_truce:
 

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Hey Everyone,

So i finally got some time today to just get this done. I did the complete 200 hour service, eventhough im at 37 hours, but I have had the GT just over a year.

The engine oil change is a piece of cake, stupid location for a filter of all the places, but I am glad I had my filter wrench, BOTH small and large versions today. The engine oil was already looking a bit dark, glad I changed it.

The hydraulic oil change I did the rear transaxle and front hydraulic, at first I emptied the rear and I was wondering if I shouldnt have bothered as the oil was clean as could be, but then oddly I changed out the front and it was darker.
I have put the full amounts of hydraulic low viscosity in the front and then the rear and its still not registering on the dipstick, so I am a bit more relieved now that with about 3 gallons in there, that it doesnt pick up on the stick.

While I was at it I greased all the grease points on the GT, I can still only find a total of 4, two on each front wheel. AM I MISSING ANY MORE???? I couldnt find them on the front or rear PTO!

I also while the deck was off sharpened the blades, checked the deck gear oil level, greased all the points on the deck, there was about 6 total here, and torqued the rear wheels to 75, and the blades to 50.

Some advice I can give while this is still fresh,

probably best to do this at a time of year like spring when done with snow and removing attachments and about to put on the deck, because itll just make your life so much easier and efficient.

Postion the jackets as close to the center away from the outside wheels to give yourself room for wrenching off the nuts

Have plenty of oil buckets for oil waste, I found that two cans of empty coffee containers were perfect for the front wheel. instead of slamming off the oil nuts and oil shooting out just slowly remove it, hold it on the edge to slow it initially and when youve emptied Niagara Falls initially then fully remove it, for the engine oil though this will be hot so wear thick gloves or something

Have a large and small oil filter wrench, theres no way your getting them off with your hands.

Usual wrenches needed etc , but also a 10mm Hex/Allen wrench is needed, an impact driver helps remove stubborn bolts on the deck, and torque wrench is needed for the wheels and deck blades.

I topped up the coolant while at it, had to buy a whole gallon for maybe using 50ml.

Thats about it, it took me close to 3-4 hours to do all the above, im sure now that ive done it once could do it in 1.5h or so, but this isnt my field or anything so more of a bit of hobby mechanics in the garage on a Saturday....

Thanks for all the help guys!
Dark engine oil in a diesel means the oil is removing the contaminatns just like it should. That's a good sign.

After you have run the tractor, make sure to full the main hydro drive reservoir until it registers on the dipstick. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted when you are checking the fluid levels. You should get the dip stick to show on the FULL mark or just below it. If you are not getting ANY dipstick reading, I would add oil very slowly until it reads on the dipstick.

A good quality rubber strap wrench works very well for the large and small filters. So, if you don't have multiple filter wrenches, get a good quality STRAP wrench.......



In the event of an emergency, you can drive a long screwdriver through the very end of the filter and use that leverage to turn it off. It will make a heck of a mess and you will have oil everywhere, but it will get the filter off. Not the recommended way to install the new filter as it will tend to leak......:laugh::lol: Just be careful to not hit the threaded nipple which the oil filter mounts upon......or it was damage it.

When draining the rear hydro and the engine oil, always remove the dipstick and on the engine, the fill cap on the valve cover and it will make the oil drain much more quickly. Just be ready for it as it will come out quickly and 3 gallons of hydro oil make a big mess if you have a small catch container.

Also, you know the type of drain pans with the small drain hole in the center and a plastic cap to seal it? Don't use on the hydro fluid as the hydro fluid will come out faster than the drain pan small center hole can handle.....Stay away from these with the small drain hole into the container. Fluid will flood over the sides and all over the floor as it can't swirl down the little hole as fast as its coming out of the tractor. This will work for an engine oil change.
 
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