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newer member; hello and my mods to date

4112 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Kennyd
I inherited a 2305 this spring. Things have finally slowed down enough for me to actually make a post other than to lurk and ask a question here or there. Thanks to all for all of the things I have learned by reading and knowing how to use the search button!

My tractor was bone stock with a loader and mower deck on it when I got it. 8 hours on the meter. A current shot of it:

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Tractor Agricultural machinery


Since then I have added some hooks to the bucket. My goodness all buckets should come with some hooks on them! And what would they cost a manufacturer? gees.

Anyways, I decided to use the grossly overrated tow hooks from harbor freight. All about price. After test placing them on the bucket I decided it needed some additional backing. I dug through the steel pile and pulled out some 2 x 3 x 3/8 angle. Hey, I had it.

Green
Green


I borrowed a rear blade from a guy at work. I quickly thought I needed a quick hitch. Harbor junk to the rescue again. I first reworked the hook. Opened the inside up to about 1.25" and square. Then I drilled and tapped in the center of the mounting holes while adding a third. It helps being a machinist by trade! Last I took a clevis pin and cut to length. Then I drove a pointed bolt into it to hold in in place. The bottom was able to use the stock bolt since it was now approx. 2 holes lower. I plan on replacing the top round as soon as I remember to get a chunk from work. However this thin one seems to be working for now...

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Auto part


Next was a rear weight. figured that out the first time I attempted to lift something heavy. looked in the manual and read about the counterweights they required. Well I wasn't buying the jd weight box. I didn't want to weight the tires or fill them as I planned on mowing with it. We had this rim at work. It is from the steel mill, from a coil carrier vehicle. The rim has a wall thickness of about an inch. We made a new one from this bent sample. So i brought it home and dug through the steel pile again. Came up with some 10 inch c channel that was about the correct length, well close enough for me! I welded that on the bottom and a pc of i beam to catch the top hook and keep it from swinging. this was ok but soon realized that setting it down on soft ground caused it to sink and the pins were too low to re hook. so I found a chunk of reese hitch and a some 3 inch square tubing and welded that on the bottom. It seems to work great now. i have about 150 pounds extra inside it of misc metal and multi hitch. I like this one because it keeps the weight closer to the tractor so I can maneuver better out in the woods with it. It also takes less space to store.

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Auto part Machine Vehicle brake


About this time I picked up a rear blade of my own. Tractor supply 5 foot model. The first thing I noticed is that the tractor does not lift this implement too high:(. I went scrounging at work and came up with some 3/4 x 3" stock. I drilled it and bolted it to where the pins should have been. I then moved the pins about 3.25 lower to match the second set of holes in the upper mount. Yes, I know it is only about 3 inches but %wise that is a lot. I plan on putting it through its paces this winter and then weld and paint in the spring if all goes well.

Model aircraft Radio-controlled aircraft Vehicle Airplane Aircraft


I also threw together this trailer mover out of stuff laying around, seems to work out good. I have a few more lil things planned for it before it is finished enough to make pretty. I liked the heavy hitch thread recently so it may get that treatment. I also want to add a pipe(or 2) for a tool holder to it. I'm hopping in the spring we have a load of parts at work going to the powder coater!

Metal
Table Furniture Pipe Metal


I also added some mirrors to my loader. That hole in the top seems to be made for them. These are truck blind spot ones from advance auto. About $9 each. Great for that quick look to the rear without turning around!

Green Water
Playset Toy Machine Fictional character


So, sorry for the rambling, and thanks for reading and all the inspiration here!

-Aaron
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Look like you have been busy!
Great stuff Aaron, thanks for posting!
Those are great mods. Thanks for the pics and write up. That rear weight is probably my fave, it will really do the job!:good2:
Rambling Required.

So, sorry for the rambling, and thanks for reading and all the inspiration here!

-Aaron
Keep on rambling as you call it, I call it great material. :thumbup1gif: You do very nice work Aaron.

Just one tinny piece of advice, you have enough content here for several very good threads. Please in the future, break them down into seperate threads and then just elaborate on your builds and the detail. We're certainly going to want see more of your handy work.

Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship.
Aaron:

Great write up and pictures. Nice work also.

Does the casting that the mirror is bolted to say, "Made in China"? I hope to have a 2320 next year. But, are parts of the loader made in China? I can almost deal with a Japan built engine, but I am really tired of having to buy things made in China. It is no wonder that unemployment is high - we don't make anything here anymore. It won't stop me from buying a John Deere, but I don't like it.

Keep sending the ideas and pictures.

Thanks,
Don
Aaron:

Great write up and pictures. Nice work also.

Does the casting that the mirror is bolted to say, "Made in China"? I hope to have a 2320 next year. But, are parts of the loader made in China? I can almost deal with a Japan built engine, but I am really tired of having to buy things made in China. It is no wonder that unemployment is high - we don't make anything here anymore. It won't stop me from buying a John Deere, but I don't like it.

Keep sending the ideas and pictures.

Thanks,
Don
All I will say for now is "Sorry" Don:thumbsdown:
Kenny:

Thanks for the comforting words. I will always have John Deere. I have had green blood since 1953, and I realize that there are John Deere factories and sales branches in China. But, it aggravates the hell out of me. In my feeble brain, global economy is: Build it in North America and ship it all over the world. How long will it be before we have John Deere equipment with, "Made in Russia" on it?

OK, I'm off the soapbox for now.

Don
Thanks for the kind words.

Several posts, maybe. Several good posts? Well that is debateable...

-Aaron
When I was working in China a few years back I quite enjoyed the crooked wine glasses!

Quality at its finest.


T-Klash
Nice inheritance you lucky heir. Nice mods, always nice to see others creations.
CMF
Nice going CMF you do good work! Interesting ballast box or should I say barrel :laugh:.

That's a different idea (good) for the rear mirror.
Aaron:

Great write up and pictures. Nice work also.

Does the casting that the mirror is bolted to say, "Made in China"? I hope to have a 2320 next year. But, are parts of the loader made in China? I can almost deal with a Japan built engine, but I am really tired of having to buy things made in China. It is no wonder that unemployment is high - we don't make anything here anymore. It won't stop me from buying a John Deere, but I don't like it.

Keep sending the ideas and pictures.

Thanks,
Don
The loader is made in Mexico, but that particular casting is made in China. So here is the break down on mine. 2520 Japan, loader Mexico, backhoe USA, box blade USA, chipper Canada, PTO generator Italy/USA, pallet forks USA, but forks are Chinese.

If you are thinking about a 2320 I would also take a good look at the 2520, it is a lot more green for just a little bit more green.
Bethesda:

Is your tractor made in Japan or just the engine? I thought that the tractors were made in Georgia, with Japanese built engines.

Thanks,
Don
Bethesda:

Is your tractor made in Japan or just the engine? I thought that the tractors were made in Georgia, with Japanese built engines.

Thanks,
Don
Yes, the 2000 series is made in Japan by Yanmar to JD specs. I would have preferred a US made tractor myself, but the closest you can get is the Kubota by a thin margin. The engine and transmission is shipped from Japan and everything is bolted together here. The entire factory employees something like 60 employees. The 2520 was so much nicer than the B2620 and JD does make a lot stuff here so felt that JD was much more American than Kubota overall. I also wasn't crazy about the Kubota dealer, I was really was more interested in the B2630 but I guess that he was more interested in moving inventory on the lot and kept steering me away from it.

US made is very important to me, and I will go out of my way to buy it where possible. My second rule is "anything but China", although that one is not always possible either.

I drive a Ford Explorer made in Chicago with 85% US content, and guess technically my house is British since it pre-dates the USA.

The 1000 series is made in Georgia.
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Bethesda:

Is your tractor made in Japan or just the engine? I thought that the tractors were made in Georgia, with Japanese built engines.

Thanks,
Don
The current 2x20 series base machines are made/built by Yanmar in Japan, as was the several tractors from a few years ago like the 2210, 2305, 4100, 4110, 4115, and the x55 series just off the top of my head.

Yes...it's a "Global Company". But luckily the do still stand behind the stuff.

Quick story, years ago when the first 300/300cx new style loaders showed up on the new 3x20 series tractors there was much debate about the new Made in China cast steel parts on the loaders, like the masts and the Quick Attach shoes. Well, soon thereafter many owners reported the QA shoes where breaking-the side tab was snapping right off. JD stepped up to the plate-redesigned the shoes by adding a reinforcing web and had them in the dealer hands inside of 2 months or so for replacement...
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