I have no power to ignition are cluster gauges. With switch off if I turn light switch on hr.guage will blink momentarily and go off. Switch on nothing. Battery fully charged. Checked fuses nothing blown. Load center had a burnt smell when I opened it. This is a 2017 tractor with 34 hrs on it. 3025E series.
M West
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I read through posts and I'm betting you have a bad battery.
(I'm editing since post #9 you said "Bought new Deere battery and same problem.")
Me...I'd still want to have new battery tested.
New doesn't mean good. Was the original battery tested? Below is what I wrote before reading you replaced it:
I would remove the battery, negative terminal first and take it somewhere having it tested. Most auto parts stores, even Walmart with auto center has equipment to properly test it.
A bad battery can fool you because it may even take a charge, you'll read voltage because the multimeter is not load testing. The battery just doesn't have enough energy to do anything, sending you on a wild goose chase.
If battery checks good it didn't cost you anything and peace of mind, you can troubleshoot from there once reinstalled.
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(I'm editing since post #9 you said "Bought new Deere battery and same problem.")
Me...I'd still want to have new battery tested.
New doesn't mean good. Was the original battery tested? Below is what I wrote before reading you replaced it:
I would remove the battery, negative terminal first and take it somewhere having it tested. Most auto parts stores, even Walmart with auto center has equipment to properly test it.
A bad battery can fool you because it may even take a charge, you'll read voltage because the multimeter is not load testing. The battery just doesn't have enough energy to do anything, sending you on a wild goose chase.
If battery checks good it didn't cost you anything and peace of mind, you can troubleshoot from there once reinstalled.
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I would have meter across battery. A helper watch meter or make long clip leads. Say you measure 12.7v
Now turn key on, try lights, etc. Does battery voltage stay same or drop?
Initial post "Load center had a burnt smell when I opened it." is concerning. Can you see discolored wires or pinpoint exactly where burned smell coming from?
You say dash comes on for an instant. Does it stay on longer with battery on a charger?
Post 9 "Ok...hooked battery charger to it. Gauges lit up and it would have started but I didn't try because of what was taken off to get battery out first time."
If everything is reconnected properly, try it with charger on seeing if you get same results or it starts, solenoid clicks, gauges stay on.
Again, I assume battery you replaced was the original one. Was it tested? Was it bad?
If it was bad certainly the new battery may not be fully charged or it also could be bad.
Think of it this way: if you put nine AA batteries in series your meter would read 12.8v. If used in place of the battery you would read 12 volts, but not enough current to do anything. It may run gauges for a few seconds is all.
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Now turn key on, try lights, etc. Does battery voltage stay same or drop?
Initial post "Load center had a burnt smell when I opened it." is concerning. Can you see discolored wires or pinpoint exactly where burned smell coming from?
You say dash comes on for an instant. Does it stay on longer with battery on a charger?
Post 9 "Ok...hooked battery charger to it. Gauges lit up and it would have started but I didn't try because of what was taken off to get battery out first time."
If everything is reconnected properly, try it with charger on seeing if you get same results or it starts, solenoid clicks, gauges stay on.
Again, I assume battery you replaced was the original one. Was it tested? Was it bad?
If it was bad certainly the new battery may not be fully charged or it also could be bad.
Think of it this way: if you put nine AA batteries in series your meter would read 12.8v. If used in place of the battery you would read 12 volts, but not enough current to do anything. It may run gauges for a few seconds is all.
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Ok. Let's slow down, take it step by step.
Hopefully others will join in and agree or disagree with me.
I was a consumer electronic technician 43 years before retiring 9 years ago. All I did was troubleshoot/repair equipment.
Let's start at the beginning.:"I have no power to ignition are cluster gauges. With switch off if I turn light switch on hr.guage will blink momentarily and go off."
I have a 3038e which just now I used, taking a break. Yours is similar I'm thinking.
1) you DO have power to gauges if turning light on it blinks and goes off...even for a second.
2) "It will stay on with battery charger on it."
Hold it right there! [emoji2] Gauges blink, go off.
Add the charger and "Ok...hooked battery charger to it. Gauges lit up and it would have started but I didn't try because of what was taken off to get battery out".
3) So...simply adding the charger, gauges work!!!!!
The only difference now is you have more available power. Connect charger and it works.
Here's what I was taught 45 years ago in automotive class. The only purpose in having a battery is to start the engine. Once running you can take it out and throw it away because the generator or alternator supplies power to run everything. (I know with computers now things are different, but principal is the same).
I know it's a lot of trouble but me...I'd try one of the following, and I understand pain of removing battery. I assume you have a good running car or truck. I would try one of these options:
1) pull car/truck up to it, jumper it to tractor being very careful. I'd probably go + to + one cable, then idling car/truck -- negative to a good tractor frame ground. Try it.
2) switch batteries. See if Deere battery starts car/truck and that known good battery starts tractor
3) have new battery load tested. Not at Deere dealer but auto parts store or Walmart.
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Hopefully others will join in and agree or disagree with me.
I was a consumer electronic technician 43 years before retiring 9 years ago. All I did was troubleshoot/repair equipment.
Let's start at the beginning.:"I have no power to ignition are cluster gauges. With switch off if I turn light switch on hr.guage will blink momentarily and go off."
I have a 3038e which just now I used, taking a break. Yours is similar I'm thinking.
1) you DO have power to gauges if turning light on it blinks and goes off...even for a second.
2) "It will stay on with battery charger on it."
Hold it right there! [emoji2] Gauges blink, go off.
Add the charger and "Ok...hooked battery charger to it. Gauges lit up and it would have started but I didn't try because of what was taken off to get battery out".
3) So...simply adding the charger, gauges work!!!!!
The only difference now is you have more available power. Connect charger and it works.
Here's what I was taught 45 years ago in automotive class. The only purpose in having a battery is to start the engine. Once running you can take it out and throw it away because the generator or alternator supplies power to run everything. (I know with computers now things are different, but principal is the same).
I know it's a lot of trouble but me...I'd try one of the following, and I understand pain of removing battery. I assume you have a good running car or truck. I would try one of these options:
1) pull car/truck up to it, jumper it to tractor being very careful. I'd probably go + to + one cable, then idling car/truck -- negative to a good tractor frame ground. Try it.
2) switch batteries. See if Deere battery starts car/truck and that known good battery starts tractor
3) have new battery load tested. Not at Deere dealer but auto parts store or Walmart.
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Safety switches would be seat switch, PTO, shifter, etc. At least now moving forward you can eliminate battery...the question now it why turning ignition switch or lights on does it flash a second then go out, but putting a charger on it the gauges stay on? [emoji848]
Do lights stay on with charger? Does it start or try to start? Solenoid click? Fuel pump run...any of that with charger on?
I know you said fuses ok, but other things like relay, a discolored wire...you said a burned smell there? Maybe bad relay?
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Do lights stay on with charger? Does it start or try to start? Solenoid click? Fuel pump run...any of that with charger on?
I know you said fuses ok, but other things like relay, a discolored wire...you said a burned smell there? Maybe bad relay?
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You're getting good advice. This looks corroded to me. As suggested take a battery lead off, then take each terminal off one-at-a-time (super important...take ONE off, clean, get a can of contact spray and reinstall carefully...tightened not stripped!
You want good clean connections everywhere.
I wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff like cables, etc. It's better to troubleshoot.
Electricity everything relates to ohms law.
There's nothing wrong with trying to start it with a charger on it.
I would get a can of electronic spray. Disconnect battery. Clean those terminals, one off, wire brush, spray a little, Vaseline is ok, reinstall...do the next one.
That spray is good for when you unplug a connector, spray, plug it back.
I bet it's something simple...a bad corroded connection.
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![Image]()
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You want good clean connections everywhere.
I wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff like cables, etc. It's better to troubleshoot.
Electricity everything relates to ohms law.
There's nothing wrong with trying to start it with a charger on it.
I would get a can of electronic spray. Disconnect battery. Clean those terminals, one off, wire brush, spray a little, Vaseline is ok, reinstall...do the next one.
That spray is good for when you unplug a connector, spray, plug it back.
I bet it's something simple...a bad corroded connection.
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Tried cleaning those connections yet? They look corroded. That may fix it. Battery unhooked...do one at a time.
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Horray!
You fixed it and saved lots of money also!
[emoji847][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji847]
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You fixed it and saved lots of money also!
[emoji847][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji847]
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