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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tough to decide where this belongs: not a JD mower, so not in Lawn and Garden Tractors; not a tractor so not in Non-Deere Tractors. So Off-Topic? ... as most of my posts are. :LOL:

Target is 2007 Sears DGS 6500 manual transmission. Was working when its space in the shed taken by the Z 2 years ago. Moved outside in shade and covered until critters/wind had their way this winter.

Initial plan: blow off dust & debris, drain fuel, apply tune-up kit (fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, plugs), replace battery, check belts, check wiring for critter damage.

Questions:
--What to do with stale gas?
--Other than draining gas at fuel filter, do anything more to clean potential debris from tank & lines?

Crossing fingers that routine maint only will bring this neglected puppy back to life.
 

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If there is a drain on the bottom of the carb or a removable bowl, I'd open that up and drain / clean it.

Take a flashlight and look in the fuel tank. If it isn't full of gunk I'd just leave it be. Drain it and refill with fresh gas. I'd add some Sea Foam to the first few tanks of gas.

You might need a touch of ether to get it to fire off the first time.

Good luck.
 

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Moved to a more appropriate forum for more views and responses, hopefully not off-topic. (y)
 

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I agree with draining and cleaning the carb bowl, that could save you a lot of extra work rebuilding the carb. I searched for old gas disposal in Texas, looks like they don't really cover it. Do you have a burn pile? I would dump it on there and let it evaporate if there's nowhere you can take it to be disposed of.
 

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Before you get too carried away, I'd make sure it at least turns over first. If it's stuck it likely isn't worth the effort or the money.
 

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Before you get too carried away, I'd make sure it at least turns over first. If it's stuck it likely isn't worth the effort or the money.
Good point, but getting the fuel out off the carb, lines, and tank first would reduce the possibility of clogging the carburetor. Cranking it without draining the fuel could cause it to need the carburetor to be disassembled and cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This thread reminds me of books by one of my favorite automotive writers, Rob Siegel.
Not a chance. That would imply some competence. My level: I can recognize the filters. I know the function of a carburetor, but don't know for sure where it is yet - guessing under the air filter area. I've found where one spark plug should go, but stll looking for the other. Get the picture? :ROFLMAO:

----------------

Fuel: took off filter, but very little gas. Can not see into tank from fill spout because of bend to tank. Have inspection camera, so will try to look with that. Would it be worthwhile to try to use air compressor to blow into tank to clear debris?

Oil: Think I've found oil drain port under a bunch of grime. Stupid owner's manual shows detail of this twist port that you have to add your own hose to, but doesn't show location. :mad: Parts diagram at Sears Parts is worthless for this. It's supposed to have a yellow cap, but too dirty yet to tell. :rolleyes:

Battery: Got it off and ready go to Batteries Plus for replacement. This is a U1R, so called ahead to make sure they had one with the same 300 CCA. Hoping I can get oil drain going, then chase to Austin for it.

Sounds like I should start adding Sea Foam to gas for a bit then maybe change to something like Star Tron?
Should I pick up some Carburetor/Brake Cleaner when I'm out?

Done with lunch, back to it.
 

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I鈥檇 hook up jumper cables, check the oil and hit it with starter fluid.

Even if the carb bowl is full of crap it shouldn鈥檛 go far. You can still pull the bowl after and spray them clean if needed. The ones that are to clogged for simple cleaning have corrosion, or bad gas was in the passages when necessary.

I don鈥檛 drain gas unless necessary. I don鈥檛 change the oil until it鈥檚 been run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Back in. Cleaned off & does look like I've found the oil drain connector. (y) Cap broke off from its tether, but probably was yellow at one time; brown now. Need a larger hose to connect to drain. O'Reilly's had guessed 1/4", but looks like its probably 1/2".

Should mention that I had found a couple of videos last week on routine mower engine maint for Kohlers, so not 100% blind into this - just 90%. :LOL:

Off to Austin...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Got back & tried to get the oil drain valve open. Yep, got it open, but then the whole cotton pickin' thing came out of the housing. :rolleyes: Wedged it in with paper towels to let it finish draining overnight. Suspect it was not screwed in fully which might explain the thick, oily dirt in the vicinity.

Anyhow, found a pic and see white material on threads. If mine is still in good condition, I'll need some of the white stuff which I'm assuming is some sort of paste/sealant and not silicon tape or sealant like I'm used to for plumbing. What is it called?

Are there generic replacements for caps like this which has broken off from its tether loop? 1/2" i.d. hose fits over the nipple that the cap covers.

Such fun. :eek:

793227
 

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Teflon tape if fine in that application.


鈥斺斺-

The caps stick and often try to unscrew that pipe. At least it didn鈥檛 break.
 
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It's got a Kohler in it? Which one? Many of the Kohler manuals can be found on their web site. Older ones are free.
 
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That's probably a pipe thread on that drain fitting so a pipe thread sealant will work. Make SURE the sealant you use states 'can be used with oil,' as some are only for water systems. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Put silicon tape on oil drain valve and reassembled. If I can get this GT working, will need to replace this valve in the future.

New oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs. Added oil to "safe" mid-point. Added 1 gal gas + 1 oz Sea Foam.

Hubby came out to help with testing.

Turned key and it tries. See fuel in fuel filter, but its not full. No oil leaks detected. Engine sounds very "metallic", a "clunk-clunk", if that is at all meaninful. Have tried with/without choke. Not trying for more than 15-20 sec at a time, maybe 4 tries total.

Purchased some starter fluid, but not sure of usage on GT.

Did check that the reasons other than the mower that we're trying to resurrect this critter still work: the Johnny Bucket Jr. and the 3ph. They're all electrical gizmos and do function. With that in mind, seems worthwhile yet to try a next step.

Do we need to try longer so that oil makes it into the engine?

Do we need to test that there's spark? I bought a spark plug tester.
 

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Priming the pump can take a moment.


Where the filter is for fill is a crapshoot. It seldom is even a point of interest troubleshooting full or empty.

I pull the air filter and spray about 3 seconds. This can be while the engine is cranking or before. If while cranking stop when it fires, but you can give 3-4 little squirts to prevent a stall while the fuel system fills up.
 
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