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Hello to this wonderful forum. I have a JD 285 and I can't find much service info about it on any forums at all. I figured this would be the section on this forum for that series, please point me in the correct direction if I'm wrong. I'm also looking for a service manual or owners manual for that matter, and I know the owners is only about $10 on EPAY but the service is quite a bit more. Is there any other place I can find a service manual for this thing?

I've had numerous issues (mostly non starting) with this lawn tractor since acquiring it about 6 months or so ago and the frustration never ends. A service manual will be my first step in being able to tackle the issues that pop up and the preventative measures I need to take as well.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 

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The 285 is most likely a newer "lawn" tractor . You'll get more responses in that section .

You could try Davenporttractor in , believe it or not , Davenport IA for a service manual .
 

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The 285 is most likely a newer "lawn" tractor . You'll get more responses in that section .

You could try Davenporttractor in , believe it or not , Davenport IA for a service manual .
57 Chevy, thank you very much for the response and pointing me in the direction to not only the correct section but also to that website. I didn't know about that site, thank you.

I thought I was in the right section but I'll try over in the newer lawn tractor section. Thanks again.
 

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No worries. I'll move the thread for you. :good2:
 

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I have a 285, bought new in 1989. Mine is the carbed version not EFI. Hit 1000 hours this year. When mine has had starting issues it's been fuel related. Something is plugging fuel line/pick up in the fuel tank. Back blowing the fuel line with compressed air fixes it for a few months. Too lazy to pull and clean the fuel tank.
 

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I have the service manual in pdf format. Pm me your email address. It's a large file, so you need to be sure your email can handle up to 25mb. Gmail can and it's free, if your's won't handle a file that large.
 

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dieselshadow, thank you for moving my thread. I swore I was in the right section lol.

zebrafive, thank you for the response and I will blow out my fuel lines, I have not done that yet. Part of my problem is probably that I don't have a manual and don't know the correct way to operate it. I haven't been running the throttle all of the way open and after doing some reading today I found on the 345 manual it recommends running with it open all of the time. Things like that I'll learn when I get a manual in my possession. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.


T Mo, you are sincerely appreciated. I sent you a pm. You doing that will save me so much in headaches and money. I can not thank you enough!!
 

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I have another question, if you all don't mind helping me out. Excuse me for my lack of knowledge, we moved to the country a year ago and it's been a whole different world to me. Working on our own equipment has been one thing I've picked up but I don't know much so please forgive me on that.

My question is about the pto clutch on this 285. Recently I noticed a "rattling" noise and I investigated, I noticed it was coming from the pto clutch. I'm not sure if I can tighten something or if I need to replace it. The following picture has a green circle around the part that is vibrating. Can anybody tell me how I can fix that? Replace totally?

Thank you in advance!

 

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Big Tree, the rattle may be from the air gap being too wide. Once you get the service manual, you can and should make the adjustment described. Not hard to do, basically, using a feeler gage and tightening the self locking nuts with the springs under them so the gap is correct and equal all around. You can do this with the deck and deck belt removed, clutch still on the tractor.

Another rattle could come from the clearance between the slotted hole in the base of your sample clutch picture. There is a rod welded to the frame that serves as an anchor to keep the coil from rotating. It will always rattle a bit when the engine is shut down. It must have some clearance at this point to avoid binding of the bearings within the clutch. This type "floats on the crankshaft vs. the type that bolts the coil part to the engine block.

Watch out for excess wear though. Here is a pic of a 320 that has worn the rod severely. Note the half way through cut about 1/2" from the bottom of the rod (anchor). If it had broken, the coil would have spun with the armature and ripped the wires out of the coil. A 320 is the same as a 285 except it has hydraulic lift.

Pic016.JPG

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Big Tree, the rattle may be from the air gap being too wide. Once you get the service manual, you can and should make the adjustment described. Not hard to do, basically, using a feeler gage and tightening the self locking nuts with the springs under them so the gap is correct and equal all around. You can do this with the deck and deck belt removed, clutch still on the tractor.

Another rattle could come from the clearance between the slotted hole in the base of your sample clutch picture. There is a rod welded to the frame that serves as an anchor to keep the coil from rotating. It will always rattle a bit when the engine is shut down. It must have some clearance at this point to avoid binding of the bearings within the clutch. This type "floats on the crankshaft vs. the type that bolts the coil part to the engine block.

Watch out for excess wear though. Here is a pic of a 320 that has worn the rod severely. Note the half way through cut about 1/2" from the bottom of the rod (anchor). If it had broken, the coil would have spun with the armature and ripped the wires out of the coil. A 320 is the same as a 285 except it has hydraulic lift.

View attachment 50885



tommyhawk
tommyhawk, thank you very much for the response and the excellent explanation. I thought about tightening the screws that you speak of with the "air gap" but I didn't want to do something that would further complicate my problem.

I think the 2nd scenario you listed might be my issue. With the tractor RUNNING I get down and look at the pto and you can see it vibrating back and forth. When I shut it off and mimic the movement with my hand it makes the same sound and it's coming from welded rod that goes through the hole that you spoke of in your 2nd paragraph. You say that it is supposed to rattle a bit when it's shut down. If mine rattles while it's running, is that something I should be concerned about? Is there any way to quiet the rattle or should I just leave it alone? I understand the suggestions you would give are only to the best of your ability without being able to see it. Thanks to T MO I now have the manual and I looked at the small section where it discusses tightening up the nuts with a feeler gauge. It just doesn't go into detail about the noise.


I am very grateful for this forum and you fine folks willing to help out. I sincerely thank you guys!!
 

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OK, from your response, I think you are pretty savvy with mechanical things, so it will be easy for us to help you solve problems. :good2:

First thing you will notice with all service manuals is the bazillion things that go wrong with our machines that aren't covered in the book! I would suggest doing the air gap adjustment first, to see if the rattle stops while the engine is running and the PTO is not engaged. Perhaps the armature plate is just a bit too close (not parallel) in one area causing it to scrape just enough to cause it to vibrate as it lightly touches the rotating rotor. This is just a guess on my part. I've only experienced the rattle as the engine is shut down with the PTO disengaged.
No science to back me up with this but I like to at least check the air gap every 100 hours or so. I think it helps make the complete clutch last longer if it is kept "tuned" in. On the newer ones with a working RIO, they might need to be checked more frequently. Don't know, all my stuff is too old to have that feature, thankfully! (can I get away with saying that here?)
By the way, my friend's 320 in the pic had many, many hours on it and is still in use weekly.
Let us know what you find.

tommyhawk
 

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OK, from your response, I think you are pretty savvy with mechanical things, so it will be easy for us to help you solve problems. :good2:

First thing you will notice with all service manuals is the bazillion things that go wrong with our machines that aren't covered in the book! I would suggest doing the air gap adjustment first, to see if the rattle stops while the engine is running and the PTO is not engaged. Perhaps the armature plate is just a bit too close (not parallel) in one area causing it to scrape just enough to cause it to vibrate as it lightly touches the rotating rotor. This is just a guess on my part. I've only experienced the rattle as the engine is shut down with the PTO disengaged.
No science to back me up with this but I like to at least check the air gap every 100 hours or so. I think it helps make the complete clutch last longer if it is kept "tuned" in. On the newer ones with a working RIO, they might need to be checked more frequently. Don't know, all my stuff is too old to have that feature, thankfully! (can I get away with saying that here?)
By the way, my friend's 320 in the pic had many, many hours on it and is still in use weekly.
Let us know what you find.

tommyhawk
Thanks again for the continued help! I appreciate the compliment on being savy, that might be pushing it a little bit lol but I have learned quite a bit since working on my own stuff and even when I paid to have it worked on I always asked a lot of questions to better understand what was going on.

I will grab some feeler gauges when I run into town here in a few as I don't have any and I will definitely check the gap. I appreciate you explaining the way you did to help me better understand and I will also take up your suggestion of checking the gap yearly. There are a lot of things that I need to learn but I'm excited to do so. Without the help of you nice folks I would be stuck. I thank you very much for taking the time and helping people like me! I'll report back if that stopped the rattle. Thanks.
 

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OK, from your response, I think you are pretty savvy with mechanical things, so it will be easy for us to help you solve problems. :good2:

First thing you will notice with all service manuals is the bazillion things that go wrong with our machines that aren't covered in the book! I would suggest doing the air gap adjustment first, to see if the rattle stops while the engine is running and the PTO is not engaged. Perhaps the armature plate is just a bit too close (not parallel) in one area causing it to scrape just enough to cause it to vibrate as it lightly touches the rotating rotor. This is just a guess on my part. I've only experienced the rattle as the engine is shut down with the PTO disengaged.
No science to back me up with this but I like to at least check the air gap every 100 hours or so. I think it helps make the complete clutch last longer if it is kept "tuned" in. On the newer ones with a working RIO, they might need to be checked more frequently. Don't know, all my stuff is too old to have that feature, thankfully! (can I get away with saying that here?)
By the way, my friend's 320 in the pic had many, many hours on it and is still in use weekly.
Let us know what you find.

tommyhawk


tommyhawk, thanks to you and your suggestion to tighten the air gap my pto no longer rattles while the tractor is running. I thank you very much, sir!!

It does make a little noise when I shut it down but you informed me that was normal so I feel confident about the adjusting process going correctly. I'll be mounting the deck back on here in a few. I appreciate your help.
 

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That's good news, Big Tree! At least the little clack-clack-clack at shutdown doesn't last long. Thanks for reporting the out come.

tommyhawk
 
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