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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got 2 implements I can't Shorten the drive shaft on.
They are old school drivelines and would have to go to a shop to get shrunk.

Pondering ideas to gain the needed 3" or so.

Has Anyone Ever Stacked 2 I Match Quick Hitches??

This would do it as far as clearance for Drive shaft...sure its spendy or not HF...still gotta buy another one for Jr. anyway.

Would /will they fit together??

I don't know why this crazy thought hit my brain......it just happens:flag_of_truce:

:munch:
 

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They wouldn't go together easily. The quick hitches have hooks instead of pins for the lift arms. So the back side of your 2nd hitch wouldn't have an easy way to connect to the 1st hitch. You'd have to fabricate a steel rod to sit in the hooks and weld tabs on the ends of the rod to act as the pins at the end of your standard lift arms.
 

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What are the two implements involved?

Do you have any photos which would show why the drive lines cannot be modified?
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What are the two implements involved?

Do you have any photos which would show why the drive lines cannot be modified?

The shafts are built like car/truck shafts...only 4" of contact area in the "square" area.

The Tube itself would have to be shortend with the yoke welded on one end and the Short section of Female "square" welded on the other.

Implements are a wore out brush mower and the Huge leaf Blower .

Both have the same style shaft.

Both need the "Over Run Clutch"..This is where we lost the clearance.:banghead:

Yea I'll get a pic....finally found a way to post them in singles only.....
 

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Dumb "?" of the day

Agri-Supply sells PTO extenders for about $20 each. Can’t link now....out at a restaurant waiting to get seated, the girlz walked over to the craft store and left me with the buzzer.
 

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The shafts are built like car/truck shafts...only 4" of contact area in the "square" area.

The Tube itself would have to be shortend with the yoke welded on one end and the Short section of Female "square" welded on the other.

Implements are a wore out brush mower and the Huge leaf Blower .

Both have the same style shaft.

Both need the "Over Run Clutch"..This is where we lost the clearance.:banghead:

Yea I'll get a pic....finally found a way to post them in singles only.....

Well, you could go back to using the overrun clutch.

Dave
 

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Agri-Supply sells PTO extenders for about $20 each. Can’t link now....out at a restaurant waiting to get seated, the girlz walked over to the craft store and left me with the buzzer.
I thought the OP was saying his PTO shaft is already too long and needs shortened?
 
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Well, you could go back to using the overrun clutch.

Dave
If I read correctly, the OP said his drive line was too LONG and needed shortened. It was okay but then he needed to add an Overrun clutch so now the shaft is too long. That's why he was exploring using two quick hitches to get the tractor farther away from the implement. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Kenny .....I need to shorten them....Not extend....TY

Dave..Have to run the clutch. The clutch is Tractor mounted.


Both implements have Big Flywheel speed and to run on a 8N. You have to have clutch as the pto is geared to rear wheels.

Brakes were never designed to stop tractor but to assist in turning. Basicly without the ORC..you can't stop tractor till pto shaft has quit turning. We got no flat land so this is a must have.

I been looking at these extendable draft link /lower 3 point arms....If they would stay extended thats a maybe.

The Pats quick hitch things may work if the I match would mount to them...looks tight.

Oterwise its fiddle with the drivelines or build "new" forward reaching mounts for both implements.

Or

:munch:
 

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Kenny .....I need to shorten them....Not extend....TY

Dave..Have to run the clutch. The clutch is Tractor mounted.


Both implements have Big Flywheel speed and to run on a 8N. You have to have clutch as the pto is geared to rear wheels.

Brakes were never designed to stop tractor but to assist in turning. Basicly without the ORC..you can't stop tractor till pto shaft has quit turning. We got no flat land so this is a must have.

I been looking at these extendable draft link /lower 3 point arms....If they would stay extended thats a maybe.

The Pats quick hitch things may work if the I match would mount to them...looks tight.

Oterwise its fiddle with the drivelines or build "new" forward reaching mounts for both implements.

Or

:munch:
Just because you no longer actually "need" the overrunning clutch, does not mean you could not still use it. Or just get a PTO extension as someone else mentioned. I thought that since maybe you already had the overrunning clutch, it would save you the expense of having to buy something.

Dave
 

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Both implements have Big Flywheel speed and to run on a 8N. You have to have clutch as the pto is geared to rear wheels.

Brakes were never designed to stop tractor but to assist in turning. Basicly without the ORC..you can't stop tractor till pto shaft has quit turning. We got no flat land so this is a must have.

I been looking at these extendable draft link /lower 3 point arms....If they would stay extended thats a maybe.

The Pats quick hitch things may work if the I match would mount to them...looks tight.

Oterwise its fiddle with the drivelines or build "new" forward reaching mounts for both implements.
I don't think I've ever heard that before. :) Unless you have leaky axle seals resulting in oil soaked brake lining, stepping on the brake pedals should lock up the tires right quick. True, it does have split brakes to assist turning but if you push both brake pedals at the same time you can easily lay a skid with both tires.

The real issue is the PTO is linked to the transmission in such a way that even when you push in the clutch the tractor will continue to move forward as long as the implement is turning the PTO shaft. On heavy inertia implements like a brush hog this can be very dangerous and has resulted in many a N-tractor operator crashing through a fence or two. :)
 
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Just because you no longer actually "need" the overrunning clutch, does not mean you could not still use it. Or just get a PTO extension as someone else mentioned. I thought that since maybe you already had the overrunning clutch, it would save you the expense of having to buy something.

Dave
Please re-read the OP's post. He has a 8N and NEEDS the overrun clutch for safety. His drive line is already too LONG and needs shortened. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just because you no longer actually "need" the overrunning clutch, does not mean you could not still use it. Or just get a PTO extension as someone else mentioned. I thought that since maybe you already had the overrunning clutch, it would save you the expense of having to buy something.

Dave

Thats just it ..I DO NEED IT.

Blower works on my JD...Won't fit the 8N.....Same with Mower.

I gotta go Shorter with driveline
or
Move Implement BACK somehow to gain space.

Drivelines will both BOTTOM out in the current configureation....= pto damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I don't think I've ever heard that before. :) Unless you have leaky axle seals resulting in oil soaked brake lining, stepping on the brake pedals should lock up the tires right quick. True, it does have split brakes to assist turning but if you push both brake pedals at the same time you can easily lay a skid with both tires.

The real issue is the PTO is linked to the transmission in such a way that even when you push in the clutch the tractor will continue to move forward as long as the implement is turning the PTO shaft. On heavy inertia implements like a brush hog this can be very dangerous and has resulted in many a N-tractor operator crashing through a fence or two. :)

Correct.

The 8N is a huge improvement over the 9n & 2n.

9 & 2 had brake pedals on R & L..... No possible way to use both brakes & the clutch:banghead:

This resulted in my first tractor vs Tree event on the Hillside. 9n was traded in on 955.

The 8N is way better. Brakes are both on right and actual pedals vs a rod. They work way better than the 9's.

They did make a handbrake lever you could bolt to the Left pedal so you could brake, clutch, try to steer in a pinch:mocking: with one hand and no PS.

These were made for flatland farming......were pushing the envelope a touch.

Did pull hubs and clean brakes...retorqued to properness as some idiot used the back it off a bit method vs the 450 # torque thats called for:banghead:






Even on the 955 I have to run this creation to gain enough driveline space.

It works just dandy....Sends the acorns flying with some crazy Ballistics.....leaves, sticks ,small branches..Gone.
 

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Correct.


Even on the 955 I have to run this creation to gain enough driveline space.

It works just dandy....Sends the acorns flying with some crazy Ballistics.....leaves, sticks ,small branches..Gone.
You need one of these to adapt to that top hook. I bought this one recently.

Dave

adapter.jpg
 

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It works just dandy....Sends the acorns flying with some crazy Ballistics.....leaves, sticks ,small branches..Gone.
Does it seem like there are way more acorns over the last couple years than previous years? They’re falling constantly this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does it seem like there are way more acorns over the last couple years than previous years? They’re falling constantly this year.
Yes Sir...seems like about a 3-5 year cycle..some years none . This year you gotta watch where you park the nice cars and wear a hat. If the winds blowin it gets crazy. Some of the surrounding Oaks are easily 100' high. Them things hurt when you get cracked on the noggin.:banghead:
 

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Them things hurt when you get cracked on the noggin.:banghead:
I haven’t had the pleasure yet, but I’m overdue. Mowed the yard the last two days and the mower got hit once, but not me. :good2:
 

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The 8N is a huge improvement over the 9n & 2n.

9 & 2 had brake pedals on R & L..... No possible way to use both brakes & the clutch:banghead:

This resulted in my first tractor vs Tree event on the Hillside. 9n was traded in on 955.

The 8N is way better. Brakes are both on right and actual pedals vs a rod. They work way better than the 9's.
I had a 9N for close to 20 years. You are correct that with the split right-left brake pedals it was impossible to use both brakes at the same time or with the clutch. But... I feel the 9N had better brakes than the 8N. The reason being, the 9N hubs and shoes were HUGE compared with the 8N even though they both had the same size tire. That, combined with those looong brake pedals gave the 9N tremendous stopping power. The brake rods also had no mechanical stops so you could really press down on them. With the 8N the pedal would typically make contact with the floor board if you pressed to hard.

The problem was the 9N was notorious for leaking axle seals and oil soaked shoes. If the seals weren't perfect you could get oil on the brakes just by over filling the differential slightly (or running sideways on a steeply sloped hill). When I first bought my 9N it had ZERO brakes due to leaking seals. And I mean ZERO. I pulled both hubs, replaced the seals and installed new shoes and that tractor would stop on a dime with very little brake pedal pressure. With the left/right pedal positions you could literally spin the tractor around like a ZTR just by pressing one of the brake pedals.
 

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Yes Sir...seems like about a 3-5 year cycle..some years none . This year you gotta watch where you park the nice cars and wear a hat. If the winds blowin it gets crazy. Some of the surrounding Oaks are easily 100' high. Them things hurt when you get cracked on the noggin.:banghead:
True pain is when one of the green heavy spiny chestnut hulls falls and sticks into the top of your head. :)
 
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